E2xxx and E4xxx overclock thread

[harpoon84]

On the topic of temps, on Asus PC Probe it hits 93C @ 3.35GHz 1.42V on my E4400 but it is stable! Feeling the heatsink it only feels warm to the touch, I assume that is the core temp?

Windows BSODed on me when it hit 96C as I was going for 3.4GHz @ 1.45V, the odd thing was that Orthos was still running stable with no errors for about 10 minutes before it happened, and then suddenly I get a BSOD out of nowhere, so it seems more like a temp problem to me than anything...

So yeah, I've upped my max stable overclock to 3.35GHz (10 x 335) @ 1.42V (update please! ), the chip responds very well to voltage it seems, it is just hitting the thermal limits of the stock HSF now. Still, I am VERY satisfied with this result, all things considered.

I guess I'm too cheap to spend $50 on a good aftermarket HSF just to hit 3.5GHz, it just doesn't make financial sense to me considering this chip only costs $113 by itself, a good HSF would almost be 1/2 the cost of the CPU itself! Might as well have got the E6750 if I was to spend that much on the CPU.

 

[zach0624]

updated for harpoon

 

[johnnyjohnson]

93C??? That is dangerously hot in my opinion. You never want it to reach the point where your computer is shutting down because the processor is overheating. The consensus is you shouldn't run above 75C. I was facing a similar dilemma about purchasing a decent heatsink. The cost for a Tuniq Tower ($51 at newegg) was almost half of what I paid for my CPU ($118). However...since I plan to keep the computer 2-3 years and eventually upgrade to a Penryn, I plan to get a lot of use out of the Tuniq and it will allow me to run at much higher speeds than I otherwise would have for the next 2-3 years. Even if I only get 2 years use out of it, the net cost will be about $2 a month. To put it into perspective, I pay $37 a month for my DSL. A decent heatsink is not an expensive purchase at all when you look at it that way.

 

[harpoon84]

I don't really trust Asus PC Probe TBH, on my previous Asus mobo (P4P 800 Deluxe, quite old admittedly) it reported temps that were ridiculously low, like 35C under load for my P4-C @ 3.3GHz.

Like I said, the HSF is only warm to the touch... and the CPU showed no signs of throttling (I kept an eye on CPU-Z and the clockspeed never dropped).

*IF* the CPU was indeed at 93C (which I seriously doubt) it should have been throttling like crazy, since the throttling point should be around the 75C mark.

 

[hokiealumnus]

Harpoon: Use Coretemp or Speedfan 4.34 beta so you can see your actual core temperatures. Throttling shouldn't start until ~85c. 75c is the generally agreed to 'highest you want to go' spot.

 

[harpoon84]

Which readings in Speedfan are correct?

I have CPU, which is the same temp as reported in Asus Probe. Then there is Core 0 and Core 1, which I assume are individual temp readings from each core, and this is 10C lower than the CPU/Asus Probe reading. Finally, there is a 'Core' temp which is 35C lower than the CPU/Asus Probe reading.

So for example, currently I am stress testing my CPU, it reads: CPU 87C, Core0/Core1 77C and Core 52C.

 

[hokiealumnus]

The Core0/Core1 temperatures should be correct for the Tjunction temps if you're using the beta version. Core is most likely your Tcase sensor. Absolutely no idea what the CPU reading is, which is insane by the way; nothing on your board should be that hot; if it is, you have a problem.

Just to be safe, I'd get CoreTemp also (it's small), which will show you the Core0/Core1 temps to verify Speedfan's readings are accurate. Once you verify that, you don't have to use it any more.

I like Speedfan b/c of the other temps it shows (ambient, PWM, HDDs, etc.) but it's always good to double-check since your hardware is at stake.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: harpoon84
On the topic of temps, on Asus PC Probe it hits 93C @ 3.35GHz 1.42V on my E4400 but it is stable! Feeling the heatsink it only feels warm to the touch, I assume that is the core temp?

Windows BSODed on me when it hit 96C as I was going for 3.4GHz @ 1.45V, the odd thing was that Orthos was still running stable with no errors for about 10 minutes before it happened, and then suddenly I get a BSOD out of nowhere, so it seems more like a temp problem to me than anything...

So yeah, I've upped my max stable overclock to 3.35GHz (10 x 335) @ 1.42V (update please! ), the chip responds very well to voltage it seems, it is just hitting the thermal limits of the stock HSF now. Still, I am VERY satisfied with this result, all things considered.

I guess I'm too cheap to spend $50 on a good aftermarket HSF just to hit 3.5GHz, it just doesn't make financial sense to me considering this chip only costs $113 by itself, a good HSF would almost be 1/2 the cost of the CPU itself! Might as well have got the E6750 if I was to spend that much on the CPU.

The heat pipe Cooler Master was free AR earlier this week. It's much better than stock cooling.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: harpoon84
Which readings in Speedfan are correct?

I have CPU, which is the same temp as reported in Asus Probe. Then there is Core 0 and Core 1, which I assume are individual temp readings from each core, and this is 10C lower than the CPU/Asus Probe reading. Finally, there is a 'Core' temp which is 35C lower than the CPU/Asus Probe reading.

So for example, currently I am stress testing my CPU, it reads: CPU 87C, Core0/Core1 77C and Core 52C.

87C is the correct temp. Download coretemp to confirm.

 

[harpoon84]

OK, the CoreTemp reading is seriously FUBAR. It's actually 5 - 7C *higher* than the Asus Probe reading! Great, so now I have 3 seperate readings, and NFI which one is telling the truth. I'm hoping the Core0/Core1 readings in SpeedFan is the true temp, otherwise I'll be seriously frying my chip...

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyalThe heat pipe Cooler Master was free AR earlier this week. It's much better than stock cooling.

I'm from Australia.

The shipping would probably cost more than what the HSF is worth, LOL.

 

[hokiealumnus]

Make sure you're running CoreTemp beta 0.95.4. If you're not using Speedfan 4.34 beta34, Speedfan is under-reporting your Core0/Core1 temps by 15c, which is why I stressed you have to use the beta version. CoreTemp is correct and you are taking a chance on seriously hurting your chip. Back down before you fry it.

 

[harpoon84]

Woops, I already had Speedfan installed on my system and it was the 4.33 version... will download 4.34 beta now and compare the two. Thanks for the heads up.

EDIT - Yup, you are right, the latest beta Speedfan now has the same temp reading as CoreTemp.

Now, if these temps are reported accurately, why the heck is my CPU still 100% stable @ 3.35GHz 1.42V, with Asus Probe reading 93C? That would make the readings in CoreTemp/Speedfan up around 100C!

Hmm, I might have to reseat the HSF as a precaution... maybe add some more thermal paste or something... I did spread it fairly thinly last time.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: harpoon84
OK, the CoreTemp reading is seriously FUBAR. It's actually 5 - 7C *higher* than the Asus Probe reading! Great, so now I have 3 seperate readings, and NFI which one is telling the truth. I'm hoping the Core0/Core1 readings in SpeedFan is the true temp, otherwise I'll be seriously frying my chip...

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyalThe heat pipe Cooler Master was free AR earlier this week. It's much better than stock cooling.

I'm from Australia.

The shipping would probably cost more than what the HSF is worth, LOL.

Coretemp should be dead-on or off by exactly 15C. 1.42 is too much juice for the stock cooler. Be sure the HSF is properly seated. Get a better cooler if you're going to push the CPU north of 3.0GHz!

 

[hokiealumnus]

Running the stock HSF at 1.42V to get 3.35GHz, your temps won't decrease. Before I got my BT, I barely stayed under 75c (sometimes going to 77c) with one single bump in Vcore (.02v) at 3.0GHz. Not worth your trouble IMO to reseat and reapply thermal grease.

Thicker is not necessarily better; after a point, the TIM becomes insulation instead of a heat conductor. I actually decreased my temps by ~3c by using a credit card to spread as thin of a layer as possible on my HSF & CPU, when compared to the AS Ceramique instructions.

From a selfish standpoint, it's very interesting to know what these things can take without totally frying. I still won't do it, but it's good to know!

 

[harpoon84]

Yeah, it's not my 24/7 speed, I just did it to see how far I could push it on the stock HSF.

Just out of interest, how much did the BT decrease your temps by?

Right now I'm @ 3GHz stock volts and it's still 80C core Core0/Core1 - damn, the stock HSF must suck pretty hard.

 

[hokiealumnus]

To get stable with Folding @ Home, I had to increase voltage to 1.365 (from 1.325...strangely it was stable through Orthos / Prime / SuperPi with 1.345, but folding crashed it) to keep 3.0GHz. At 1.345Vcore & 3.0GHz with the stock HSF, I ran 74c regularly under Orthos load with spikes to 77c.

Now, running F@H at 100% load 24/7, I'm getting 56-57c constantly. If the room is pretty warm, it will go to 59c. Without running F@H, after gaming for a couple hours, the cores never go above 55c. Haven't run Orthos at this voltage, but at 1.345 it runs at 61-62c.

If you watch for the BT open-box, it sells for $17.99 + shipping; unbeatable. To answer the question probably going through your head, YES, it's worth it!

EDIT - Decided to come home to eat lunch today. This room still has the night chill thing going on. SYS temp is at 27c right now. With F@H going at 100% (which it has been doing for about 20hrs now since I last tried some OC settings), it was running 50c! So...I decided to shut that down and run Orthos while I was here. Been going for over 20min now and the peak temperature is 59c (to reiterate, that's at 3.0GHz using 1.365Vcore). Definitely worth it.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

E4300 @ 3.49GHz/1.465Vcore...73C with 85F ambient using BT (modded with 120 x 38mm medium speed Panaflo).

 

[21stHermit]

Originally posted by: hokiealumnus
To get stable with Folding @ Home, I had to increase voltage to 1.365 (from 1.325...strangely it was stable through Orthos / Prime / SuperPi with 1.345, but folding crashed it) to keep 3.0GHz. At 1.345Vcore & 3.0GHz with the stock HSF, I ran 74c regularly under Orthos load with spikes to 77c.

Now, running F@H at 100% load 24/7, I'm getting 56-57c constantly. If the room is pretty warm, it will go to 59c. Without running F@H, after gaming for a couple hours, the cores never go above 55c. Haven't run Orthos at this voltage, but at 1.345 it runs at 61-62c.

If you watch for the BT open-box, it sells for $17.99 + shipping; unbeatable. To answer the question probably going through your head, YES, it's worth it!

EDIT - Decided to come home to eat lunch today. This room still has the night chill thing going on. SYS temp is at 27c right now. With F@H going at 100% (which it has been doing for about 20hrs now since I last tried some OC settings), it was running 50c! So...I decided to shut that down and run Orthos while I was here. Been going for over 20min now and the peak temperature is 59c (to reiterate, that's at 3.0GHz using 1.365Vcore). Definitely worth it.

You don't say what CPU this is???

I got my $17.99 BT yesterday, what a monster!!!

 

[hokiealumnus]

Originally posted by: 21stHermit
You don't say what CPU this is???

I got my $17.99 BT yesterday, what a monster!!!

Sure I do...in every post!

(see sig)

You're correct...the photos don't do it any justice; it's huge.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Slap a medium speed 120 x 38mm Panaflo and this monster will lower CPU temp by another 2 to 3C. The two openings at the "radiator" will also permit unheated air from the fan to cool the PWM and RAMs. Use a side duct to further lower CPU temp by 3C.

 

[21stHermit]

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Slap a medium speed 120 x 38mm Panaflo and this monster will lower CPU temp by another 2 to 3C. The two openings at the "radiator" will also permit unheated air from the fan to cool the PWM and RAMs. Use a side duct to further lower CPU temp by 3C.

Good chance the BT will collect dust. Subsequent to ordering the BT I ran this Test with my Celeron D, for reasons I don't fully understand, that Netburst Single Core is 5-6 times faster than my Core Duo at Test 1.

Over the next few months I'll spend 100's of hours putting together maps and compiling them to binary. The combination of the Core Duo w/22"WS, 500GB NAS, and that Celeron D will vastly increase my productivity over last year. I'm stoked!!!

I have the Celeron D on a ECS P4M800PRO-M which could OC it, then the BT would be of use. I weighed the BT, w/o brackets: 1lb 12oz, quite a porker.

Thanks
Hermit

 

[Build it Myself]

http://www.clubit.com/product_...l.cfm?itemno=A4841007#
I know it's not here, but I see the review's saying this board is great @ OC'ing, but has anyone actually done anything with it? I'm willing to spend the money if it's got the quality it seems to advertise. the IP35-e that everyone keeps talking about seems to have a few quirks still (double-boot among others which i have no idea how to do) and the BIOS update is only a beta...with a 2xxx series is this board overkill for a 2xxx series. I thought about a 4xxx but I can't see spending more when I'll probably just upgrade this processor in late Q1 when the prices fall again.

Opinions? suggestions? I think this is worth my while but I trust the judgement in this forum. Serpent you seem to have sound advice, what's your take on my setup...

HP cheapo RAM 4gig
WD caviar SE16 250 gig 7200RPM (storage)
Still have to pick up a Raptor for OS and games (which I'm gonna need some explaining to do)
DVD/etc. x2 1 NEC I already picked up and another one when I find a deal.
the coolermaster fan @ clubit that's free AR!!
Thermaltake soprano black w/panel
the new 8800GT (thanks for the advice to wait on the specs!! Saved me money!)
2180 (or possibly 2160 though I don't see the benefit of saving 15 if it ensures a better 3.0 OC)
This board that I just asked about
Still need a good suggestion about a PSU, thinking of the Corsair that's on sale @ clubit
Vista64...which I'd like to know if this mobo will work with vista 64...people keep saying they have problems with Vista but i can't see staying with XP because like it or not, Vista is the future...

Thanks for looking this over, I'd like any pointers or suggestions to tweak this anymore...really I'm just waiting on the CPU, mobo, and PSU which I plan to buy all @ the same time since they seem to be the most picky.

Thanks,

John

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Some Rapors don't geat along with P35 boards (see Abit and Asus forum). Use at your own risk. The newer 7200.11 Seagate is very fast, but I don't know about drive reliability.

I don't think 2180 will overclock any better than 2160. Just luck when it comes to a good overclocking chip. My E4300 is also a 9x multi CPU. It's good to at least 3.6GHz with 1.505Vcore.

I like the Antec Earthwatts 430 ($30 AR) at NewEgg. It has plenty of power to drive your rig (single +12VDC rail @ 30A). You could splurge with $50 Antec 500 with 34A/12VDC.

Don't have any installation problem with Vista Business 32-bit and IP35-E.

I had IP35 Pro, version 1.0. Performance is very very close the IP35-E. The Pro board does not double post, but its BIOS can get corrupted, possibly due to the Guru chip. I didn't have any problem with IP35-E BIOS. The double post is fixed with 13 BIOS. I sold my Pro board two months ago.

 

[Build it Myself]

Here's links for everything I mentioned above so that people can check out exactly what I mean without wasting their time. Thanks for the help and tell me what you think!

http://www.clubit.com/product_...l.cfm?itemno=CA1311450
http://www.clubit.com/product_...l.cfm?itemno=CA1906910
http://www.newegg.com/Product/...x?Item=N82E16822136037
no need to link the RAM, i think everyone knows this stuff
http://www.clubit.com/product_...l.cfm?itemno=CA1938263
http://www.clubit.com/product_...l.cfm?itemno=A4841007# assuming this board and chip setup look good...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/...x?Item=N82E16822136054 I'd like to find one of these that's "retail" and not "OEM" I don't know what the difference is, but when I got my retail package it was in the box with instructions while my OEM package didn't come with jack...kind of like the comfort of being able to read how to use my products...
http://www.clubit.com/product_...l.cfm?itemno=CA6200026 probably this because of what I've heard about Corsair quality.
NEC DVD, not worth linking...also going to need a decent (a.k.a. reliable) floppy drive for updating/flashing BIOS if needed, suggestions welcome.
Naturally going with a 8800GT, though I'd like to know the difference between the regular and OC'ed versions since they seem to be relatively the same price.

I think that about covers it I believe...Please let me know if you have warnings against any of these parts, however I have already purchased the RAM, Case, HD (not the Raptor), and DVD drive. I'm waiting till friday to decide the rest, so I have until then to listen to advice.

 

[Build it Myself]

Thanks Serpent, I was posting my links when you wrote that so I missed it. I could go with a 15k RPM drive instead of the Raptor, I guess I didn't see the problems associated with that HD. I don't even know if it's really necessary but I like the idea of keeping them totally seperate (the OS and storage) to avoid corrupting all my info should something happen.

"I don't think 2180 will overclock any better than 2160." I was actually reading a post you wrote about how the silicon grade is how these chip speeds are determined and therefore a 2180 would have a better shot @ OC'ing higher due to the higher quality silicon...

Is the Vista 64bit any different when it comes to acting up with boards or will it operate relatively the same as the 32bit version? I want it to keep the 4gigs of RAM (overkill for today's standards) but better safe than sorry. 64 is said to have better security as well, which again I know little about. i'll look up that seagate drive though and see what that's about...

Thanks and keep the help coming, i've got 48hrs. to contemplate!