Corsair H110i GTX Giving me a Headache...

[Crescendo]

Not using link but I can monitor the speed of the pump with the DB software. My pump is only connected to a header at the bottom of my motherboard. This gives it power and allows the software to monitor the system.

I have the 6600k so my temps are probably slightly lower, but even when I boost the voltage past 1.3v I barely notice any temperature changes. This kit is also extremely quiet compared to my custom loops.

My suggestion would be to remove the cooler, clean it along with the heat spreader on the CPU, and then use some good TIM before you reinstall the AIO. You should be able to test the pump with a regular USB cable, theoretically...

I already did this twice, made ZERO difference... and when I go from stock voltage to 1.3v I get like a 10c increase in my temps. At stock 1.145v 4.0GHZ I get 50-55c gaming, 65c stress test, @ 1.3v 4.5ghz I get around 60-65c gaming, 70-75c stress test. So its about 10c more when I'm overclocked. I'd like to keep my temps below 70c at all times even stress testing.

Also what do you mean by DB software? and which header is your pump connected to? I have my pump wire on the CPU_FAN header and idk where to monitor it, Corsair Link just shows fan speeds and temps doesn't show pump or anything else. Could someone walk me through how to see the pump speed without corsair link?

Basically I have my fans connector to a splitter which then goes to my pump then the pump 4 pin goes to CPU_header and then I have it connect VIA SATA for power. I followed the Corsair directions to a T when I installed this so it should be setup just like everyone elses minus the Link cable.

 

[Crescendo]

Uhm... Overclocking is a gamble. Always. Nothing is guaranteed. What you pay for with K SKUs is higher stock clocks and an unlocked multiplier. Anything else is a bonus.

Yes and no. You get higher base and boost clocks than even the fastest non-K SKUs. Other than that, again, you pay for the privilege of getting an unlocked multiplier and semi-official overclocking support. But there are, of course, no guarantees. If that was possible, Intel would be selling higher clocked SKUs.

and I'd be fine with that if that's all I needed but you also have to spend more on a Z170 board and then more on aftermarket cooling. So you're not just paying extra for the K processor to push its limits. What really pisses me off is it seems everyone else with this processor/aio can hit 4.7 @ 60c or lower yet I'm here @ 4.5 with 65-70c. I know its a gamble and I dont expect crazy overclocks, but 4.5 is hardly crazy and the temps im seeing are quite high.

 

[Crescendo]

Sorry I know guys I know you're not gauranteed any overclock and I guess I'm starting to realize this after 3 crappily binned chips, infact this 6700K isn't binned crappily at all imho because I can hold 4.7 @ 1.35v which imho seems good, just the temps are what's holding me back. I know my case is cold so it's not the way my fans are oriented and it's not ambient temps, it's something to do with the CPU and the block/cooler itself thats making things hot which is why I'm starting to think it's the AIO that's making this run hot.

I guess the only thing I can do is get the LINK and check my pump and fan speeds and go from there. I mean if I can't even hear the pump and the fans are barely spinning I'm sure I'm running on the LOWEST setting probably under 800 on fans and under 1000 on the pump which is probably quite slow, I'm sure if I raise the pump speed and fan speeds a bit I can hit my mark on temps.

My main gripe is I'd like to do all of this WITHOUT the Link, so if anyone can give me tips of info on how to control fan speed and see my pump speed WITHOUT the link I'd love you for life. I can get a splitter and run the fans off the motherboard, fine I'm fine with that... but how do I see my pump speed? and also if I connect the corsair link can I alter fan and pump speed and then UNPLUG the link and it'll hold my settings or no? cause if I can do that I can raise my pump and fan speeds and then just get rid of the link after, this would be my preferred method.

Also for some reason my case fans seem to also be spinning slow and they go up and down via the temps, how can I get my case fans to run at max RPM constantly? I set them to MAX in BIOS and it doesnt seem to be running them max... I have them plugged into the fan header the case came with so I don't really understand this. I feel like if I ramp my case fans up to max, run the cpu fans @ 1200rpm or more and raise my pump slightly I could easily hit 4.5 @ 60-65c which I'd be happy with it. Until then though I'm taxing my thermals @ 4.5 and this is no bueno.

Infact a quite weird thing is NONE of the software I run on my PC shows my actual Voltage they all say 1.5v or .5v yet im running @ 1.290v so I cant even tell if my voltage is properly set without being in BIOS and this is a FIRST for me since this has never happened before. Also I set ALL of my fans to 100% in BIOS and in HWmonitor it shows my fans are running at 100% yet they aren't... I can only see my case fans RPM and it fluctuates between 800-1200rpm based off temps. This si quite annoying when it comes to testing my overclocks.

 

[EXCellR8]

if the pump is connected to the CPU_FAN header (as it should be) then you can monitor/control the fan speed in regular system bios or use something like Speedfan.

same goes for chassis fans that aren't connected directly to the PSU

 

[Valantar]

if the pump is connected to the CPU_FAN header (as it should be) then you can monitor/control the fan speed in regular system bios or use something like Speedfan.

same goes for chassis fans that aren't connected directly to the PSU

AFAIK, the 4-pin (3-pin?) connector on the Link-enabled AIOs from Corsair only reports RPM back to the motherboard as a failsafe - i.e. not letting you boot with a failed pump. This of course also lets you monitor pump rpm through the CPU_FAN header, but AFAIK not control it. The power to the pump comes through the SATA connector, and the controlling signal from the built-in (USB-connected) controller.

Also for some reason my case fans seem to also be spinning slow and they go up and down via the temps, how can I get my case fans to run at max RPM constantly? I set them to MAX in BIOS and it doesnt seem to be running them max... I have them plugged into the fan header the case came with so I don't really understand this.

The fan header your case came with? As in not connected directly to the motherboard, but to a controller/hub/splitter card? What case do you have? Is the fan hub connected to a motherboard port? Where is it powered from? Does your case have a fan control switch on the front or back? Take a look, these are often tiny (such as on Fractal Design's cases).

The fan hubs/controllers included with most cases don't take signals from the motherboard, but vary fan voltage based on a switch on the case. This is done to maximize compatibility. If the controller connects to the motherboard and reports rpm numbers, but doesn't respond to BIOS control, most likely it's just reporting fan speeds to allow for monitoring. If you want BIOS control over your fans, connect them directly to the motherboard.


And, I have to ask: if you weren't planning on using Corsair link, why did you buy an expensive Corsair AIO that has Link as one of its main selling points?

 

[Ketchup]

For this unit, you really do need the adapter linked in post #6. All this other back and forth with the unit is really a waste of time without it.

 

[EXCellR8]

ohhh i see now how it is... there is definitely a SATA power connector and then the link cable to the USB 2.0 header... along with a single wire to the CPU_FAN. i honestly have no recollection of connecting anything except the USB cable and header wire. opps.

i would have just bought an expansion card at this point and used the link cable...

 

[Crescendo]

if the pump is connected to the CPU_FAN header (as it should be) then you can monitor/control the fan speed in regular system bios or use something like Speedfan.

same goes for chassis fans that aren't connected directly to the PSU

I don't see pump speed in BIOS or in HWmonitor or in Corsair Link right now or speed fan so this is false...

 

[Crescendo]

AFAIK, the 4-pin (3-pin?) connector on the Link-enabled AIOs from Corsair only reports RPM back to the motherboard as a failsafe - i.e. not letting you boot with a failed pump. This of course also lets you monitor pump rpm through the CPU_FAN header, but AFAIK not control it. The power to the pump comes through the SATA connector, and the controlling signal from the built-in (USB-connected) controller.


The fan header your case came with? As in not connected directly to the motherboard, but to a controller/hub/splitter card? What case do you have? Is the fan hub connected to a motherboard port? Where is it powered from? Does your case have a fan control switch on the front or back? Take a look, these are often tiny (such as on Fractal Design's cases).

The fan hubs/controllers included with most cases don't take signals from the motherboard, but vary fan voltage based on a switch on the case. This is done to maximize compatibility. If the controller connects to the motherboard and reports rpm numbers, but doesn't respond to BIOS control, most likely it's just reporting fan speeds to allow for monitoring. If you want BIOS control over your fans, connect them directly to the motherboard.


And, I have to ask: if you weren't planning on using Corsair link, why did you buy an expensive Corsair AIO that has Link as one of its main selling points?

The case fans are connected to a HUB on the back of the case that it came with and they are wired the way they were from factory. I wasn't aware that LINK was required to do so much I guess I didn't do much research. I also didn't know my motherboard didn't include a USB 2.0 on the board so I guess I screwed myself every which way...

But like others have said even at low fan speed and pump speed their CPU's stay rather cool. I can't imagine out of the box this thing is this bad. I mean I'm hitting 60-62c while gaming @ 4.5 1.3v and I'm hitting about 72c on AIDA64 @ 1.3v I guess this isnt TERRIBLE considering how slow my fans and pump are moving but man at this point I'm not very happy. I'll try to order up the Link and use it, but man I hope it doesnt make my PC look ugly. Any tips or tricks you guys used to get good temps? I know its not AMBIENT like I said because my case and room are cool, I also know its not a contact issue on my end because I mounted it multiple times with even spread paste. So unless a bracket is messed up or the mounting hardware is off I don't see why I'd be getting temps like I do.

Is it normal for my PC to idle @ 30c then as soon as I open a game or program is shoots up to 50-60c then goes back down? The previous guy in this thread said it was weird that mine did that because his never goes over 55 no matter what he does. I find it kind of weird that my PC will idle @ 30c then the moment I open anything Google Chrome, A game anything it shoots up to 55-60c then goes back down.

Idk maybe im overly worried, I guess 62c @ 1.3v is decent... I guess onyl way I'll know is to get the link and see what the deal is. I can try remounting my cooler but I feel like that wont make any difference.

 

[Crescendo]

Ok so I reverted back to STOCK 1.145v and even just gaming I'm going as high as 61-62c in GTA does this still seem normal? I mean just playing a game on STOCK 1.145v I'm hitting 62c... that deff doesnt seem right.

 

[lehtv]

@Crescendo Seems perfectly normal to me with a processor that hasn't been delidded.

Not that 62C is anywhere close to a high temperature, but your temperature bottleneck isn't the H110i. By default, 6600K (like all mainstream Intel CPUs since Ivy Bridge) uses thermal paste to transfer heat from the CPU to the IHS (integrated heat spreader; that part of the processor the cooler sits on top of). This is a poor solution, and can be fixed by delidding the CPU, which basically consists of

1. removing the IHS with some tool or another (typically a razor or a vice)
2. scraping off all the glue that kept the IHS attached (the glue also raises the IHS further up than it needs to be, causing even more of a penalty to heat transfer)
3. cleaning off all the thermal paste from the CPU and the underside of the IHS using q-tips dipped in alcohol (preferably >90% IPA)
4. applying liquid metal onto the CPU which is as close to the thermal conductivity of solder as you can get (e.g. Coollaboratory Liquid Pro/Ultra or Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut)
5. installing the CPU back in and resealing it with the cleaned IHS

Do that and you will be happy with the performance of your cooler.

 

[EXCellR8]

you shouldn't need to delid the processor in order to be happy with a "ready to use" AIO cooler though...

 

[lehtv]

you shouldn't need to delid the processor in order to be happy with a "ready to use" AIO cooler though...

True, you should just be happy with the performance you get. But that can be difficult after spending over a hundred bucks on a cooler. I imagine "dissatisfied" is what a lot of previous air cooler owners and now AIO owners feel like.

EDIT: In any case, 62C is a good temperature assuming that that's the actual highest core temperature, and not delta from ambient. There's still about 20C of headroom. Overclock away and don't worry about it OP.

 

[Crescendo]

@Crescendo Seems perfectly normal to me with a processor that hasn't been delidded.

Not that 62C is anywhere close to a high temperature, but your temperature bottleneck isn't the H110i. By default, 6600K (like all mainstream Intel CPUs since Ivy Bridge) uses thermal paste to transfer heat from the CPU to the IHS (integrated heat spreader; that part of the processor the cooler sits on top of). This is a poor solution, and can be fixed by delidding the CPU, which basically consists of

1. removing the IHS with some tool or another (typically a razor or a vice)
2. scraping off all the glue that kept the IHS attached (the glue also raises the IHS further up than it needs to be, causing even more of a penalty to heat transfer)
3. cleaning off all the thermal paste from the CPU and the underside of the IHS using q-tips dipped in alcohol (preferably >90% IPA)
4. applying liquid metal onto the CPU which is as close to the thermal conductivity of solder as you can get (e.g. Coollaboratory Liquid Pro/Ultra or Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut)
5. installing the CPU back in and resealing it with the cleaned IHS

Do that and you will be happy with the performance of your cooler.

Not delidding my CPU shouldnt have to.

 

[Crescendo]

True, you should just be happy with the performance you get. But that can be difficult after spending over a hundred bucks on a cooler. I imagine "dissatisfied" is what a lot of previous air cooler owners and now AIO owners feel like.

EDIT: In any case, 62C is a good temperature assuming that that's the actual highest core temperature, and not delta from ambient. There's still about 20C of headroom. Overclock away and don't worry about it OP.

82c is normal? from what I've read anything over 72c is really bad for the CPU Intel Rep himself said that I shouldnt go over 72c... So honestly I only have about 10c of headroom which is bad when I'm currently at stock.

 

[lehtv]

82c is normal? from what I've read anything over 72c is really bad for the CPU Intel Rep himself said that I shouldnt go over 72c... So honestly I only have about 10c of headroom which is bad when I'm currently at stock.

The Intel rep was probably referring to the motherboard's CPU temp readout which is the temperature that the BIOS (or UEFI to be precise) shows you, and is typically about 10C lower than actual core temps. Or he could've been referring to Tcase or some other non-core temp, but I don't know why he would've done that.

Intel CPU's using stock cooling regularly run up to 90-95C at full load (i7-4790K being a prime example). But combined with the power consumption associated with higher voltages and clock speeds, a slightly lower max temp is recommended. So if your hottest core temp is 62C then you have 20C of headroom before you even have to start paying attention to temperatures. After that, you can still occasionally go higher and nothing will happen. The only real risk is if you regularly run the CPU near temperatures where it will throttle to protect itself (about 100C), but most overclockers and OC guides suggest a more conservative 80-85C upper limit just in case.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Nobody has said that "you HAVE to delid your CPU" and replace the stock TIM. But I will say that there is indeed something called thermal stress, or the Tj spec throttling would not have been in the equation. The "rumors" suggest that these more recent Haswell and Skylake processors -- particularly Skylake and therefore no less the Kaby Lake -- are more thermally "sensitive" than earlier generations. Even if you could otherwise tolerate an OC'd Skylake hitting 90+C, the heat generates too much electrical noise for any sort of stability in overclocking.

Intel's attentions have been focused on reducing the lithography, reducing power-consumption and the mobile-market prospects. So we haven't seen so much in gains for higher processor speeds in Ghz. For those reasons and possible damage to the processors with 14nm lithography, they chose to put a blob of silly-putty between the IHS and die.

You could wonder why Intel didn't make some contract with the Coollaboratory people. The enthusiasts haven't reported any problem using CLU for Ivy Bridge or later.

I was willing to pay for the re-lid and binned chip. To some, it won't make sense to do that. But if the goal and objective is to simply make the processor perform at lower temperatures, it is just another option added to choices of air and water coolers.

 

[Crescendo]

Ok so I think my pump might be failing... Today I turned on my PC after having it running all night, I did a quick restart and when it came back on and I started a game it was at 72-74c instantly...Restarted PC same thing, so I shut the PC down and I tapped on the pump with a screwdriver a few decent times and turned the PC on and the pump started working again. So have a feeling my pump is going or something any thoughts? I have the Pump plugged into the SATA cable from the PSU and the CPU_fan header on the motherboard, so it should be starting everytime I boot, have never seen temps this bad until now so I'm assuming this is the first time the pump has outright not worked, usually a bad sign and I should probably RMA?

 

[XavierMace]

The pump should start the second you turn your computer on. If it's not reliably doing that, then yes, you need to RMA it.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

The pump should start the second you turn your computer on. If it's not reliably doing that, then yes, you need to RMA it.

What if he has settings in his BIOS that set minimum RPM levels of PWM or 3-pin ports, and the port connected to the pump is set too low? I KNOW he's trying to use the Link software, and that the H110 is somehow an integration of pump, fans -- maybe PWM or 3-pin hub.

 

[XavierMace]

Pump would still be running even on low RPM settings. It's getting power from the SATA power connector. Link doesn't come into play until the OS boots. Most of the AIO's are the same. 4 pin fan connector off pump/block goes to CPU fan plug. Molex or SATA plug for power. 2-4 PWM ports on pump/block for your radiator fans. USB header plug for software control.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Just a question -- because I've deferred using or trying an AiO, while considering the Corsair models.

What are the complications of running the pump and all the fans from the motherboard ports? or from a combination of a motherboard "Pump" 4-pin PWM port and a PWM splitter attached to a second PWM port? Why use Corsair Link at all? Does the assembly of these AiO's actually prevent doing that?

 

[Micrornd]

The USB cable Corsair provides looks to be a single USB 2.0.
The connection at the pump appears to be either a mini or micro USB connector.
If it were me I would check to see if it were a mini-USB or if it were a micro-USB connector and the get a USB 2.0 cable with that connector on one end and a std. USB connector on the other end.
Run it out the back and plug it into any rear USB port.
That's what I would do, but YMMV, so it's up to you

 

[XavierMace]

Just a question -- because I've deferred using or trying an AiO, while considering the Corsair models.

What are the complications of running the pump and all the fans from the motherboard ports? or from a combination of a motherboard "Pump" 4-pin PWM port and a PWM splitter attached to a second PWM port? Why use Corsair Link at all? Does the assembly of these AiO's actually prevent doing that?

For pump control and integrated ability to manage your radiator fans separately from other fans. Yes, the latter can be accomplished with a variety of 3rd party programs. But honestly the AIO's software is an easier solution IMO. I don't know why you wouldn't want to use it.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

For pump control and integrated ability to manage your radiator fans separately from other fans. Yes, the latter can be accomplished with a variety of 3rd party programs. But honestly the AIO's software is an easier solution IMO. I don't know why you wouldn't want to use it.

You're probably spot-on with that. But this wasn't the first thread I'd seen with frustrations about the Corsair AiO's and Corsair Link. If I were doing "custom-water," I'd do my best to use the motherboard ports supplemented with Swiftech PWM 8-port splitters.