Corsair H110i GTX Giving me a Headache...

[Crescendo]

Ok so I bought the H110i GTX and apparently without the Corsair Link you cannot: Control Fan Speed or even see Fan Speed, Cannot control the Pump or see if it's even working... I cannot USE the Corsair Link because my overpriced EVGA FTW motherboard doesn't come with USB 2.0 Headers so I'm stuck NOT using the Link Cable.

So now I am concerned as my temperatures on my CPU are quite high, much higher than I would expect with my configuration considering I spent top dollar on my CPU, motherboard, cooler and PSU in order to reach an adequate overclock but thus far I have been let down. The idle temperatures are around 25-30c and with web browsing and minor things it only goes as high as 40-45c (this is with a 4.5ghz overclock @ 1.28v) so this seems normal, the real problem is if I run AIDA64 for only 15 minutes the temperatures hit about 70c which imho is wayyy too hot for this configuration and only a minor OC of 500MHZ. I have a 6600K on a Cryorig H7 and @ 4.5GHZ 1.275v I only hit 65c on AIDA64 and thats a 1000MHZ overclock on cheap air cooling, people I've talked to online running Evo 212's are cooling their 6700K below 60c @ 4.7ghz 1.35v so this seems like quite BS on my end and I highly doubt it's just a bad silicon lottery.

So anyways I have no Corsair Link and cannot use it, without it I have no idea what my fan speeds are at, my pump speed or anything. I have the Radiator fans plugging into the splitter that is then plugged into the CPU header on the motherboard, yet my BIOS shows no fan speed and I am unable to alter the fan speed, if I had to guess based off noise and their movement the CPU fans are running below 1000RPM, I'm assuming in turn that the pump is also running slowly since they use the SAME header. I cannot audibly hear the pump and if I touch the block I barely feel any vibration, now sure if its coming from the pump or the case fans, so either my mom ISNT working or it's just moving incredibly slow, I'm going to assume the later because if my pump wasn't working at all I'd assuming my PC would be overheating especially with an overclock.

So I guess my question is mainly is there anyway I can configure this setup so that the pump runs at full speed and I can control the radiator fan speeds without Corsair Link? Also I would like to know if there is a way to see if my pump is even working, people say to listen to it yet I only hear the case fans spinning and they say to touch it but I can't really feel it vibrating, if my pump wasn't working wouldn't my PC be overheating right now? I mean 15-20 mins on AIDA with an overclock I feel like if the pump wasn't working at all it would be overheating not resting at around 70c. Even when I don't overclock and I run my voltage around 1.145v my temperatures go as high as 55-60c while gaming which is ATROCIOUS on a $130 liquid cooler, I don't think the stock cooler was even that bad.

I contacted Corsair and they said that the temperatures don't seem normal and to RMA if the pump has failed but I cannot even tell if it's failed or just a bad configuration due to not having the Link connected. I also read online that many people had issues with these Corsair Liquid Cooler and needed to add washers to them to get adequate cooling, I questioned corsair about this and they said no washers would be required, and that it should mount up fine. I have reseated the cooler thermal paste shows an even distribution over the block and I tightened the bracket and block as directed in a criss cross pattern nice and snug hand tight. If I RMA the cooler I will be 2 weeks without a cooler otherwise I would have just done it already, don't really feel like being 2 weeks without a cooler only to find out the next one does the same thing, so I would like to get to the bottom of this to make sure that it's a faulty product and not just my configuration.

This is my overclocking setup:

Intel 6700K @ 4.5GHZ 1.280v Idle Temp: 30-35c, Gaming Temp: 55-60c, Load Temp: 70-75c
Corsair H110i GTX Liquid Cooling (No Corsair Link connected.)
EVGA Z170 FTW motherboard (BIOS temps are 40c. Vdroop enabled, Override Voltage.)
Phantek Evolv M ATX Case
2 x Corsair SP fans on Radiator Exhausting out the top in push config
2 x 120mm Phantek SP fans on front Intake
1 x 980ti Hybrid Radiator Mounted at the Rear Exhausting Air

The inside of the case feels extremely cool, there is NO hot air in the case so I know ambient temperatures aren't to blame, it's either the cooler malfunctioning, a bad mount and/or a bad configuration. I know the install was done properly (been installing CPU coolers for nearly 15 years.) but who's to say that I might not need washers? Corsair seems to disagree but I digress from what I've seen in online forums about the Corsair coolers requiring washers. Maybe my pump is moving so slow it's not moving the water quick enough to cool, I mean audibly and touch wish I can't even tell if the pump is working, but theres no way to tell without Corsair Link... I'm at a loss and extremely frustrated I'm in part blaming it on my motherboard for not including a USB 2.0 Header for the Corsair Link and I'm in pay blaming myself for not knowing how to properly configure this setup WITHOUT the Corsair Link and I'm in part blaming Corsair for possibly requiring washers for a proper mount. Can anyone shed some light on my situation and maybe give me some input on things to try. I feel I should be seeing much lower temps with this extremely pricey setup. Cosair seems to think it could be a faulty cooler, but as I said before I'm not RMA'ing it until I'm 100% sure that's the case.

tl;dr:

overclock running rather hot for expensive overclocking setup.
cannot use corsair link due to no 2.0 header on motherboard
cannot tell if pump is working, cant feel it vibrating or hear it pumping
cannot change fan speed or tell the fan speed in current configuration
Looking for advice on making the pump run full speed and being able to control the fans without Corsair Link.
Looking for ways to see if the pump is working without Corsair Link.

 

[DesiPower]

Not sure is my post will be any helpful, but I have "Corsair Hydro Series H100i GTX Extreme Performance Water / Liquid CPU Cooler. 240mm (CW-9060021-WW)" I am using it on X99 Taichi mobo and the CPU is i7-6850. It's running constantly at 4.2 GHz so I would say that it's decently OCed. I have run HandBrake for extended period, CPU utilization at 100% and temp never goes over 56 degrees. H100i GTX does have a USB interface and Corsair link only works with that. The fans connect to the cooler itself and do not go to the mobo header.

My mobo does report pump speed, and as temp rises, the pump speed does go up. I can hear the pump too, even at the lowest default profile (don't remember the name) its too loud to my liking, so I have created my own profile which keep the pump at 20% and at that speed its barely audible. My mobo does not report the Fan speeds though but I can hear them spin faster too as temp rises.

Not sure who much care you have put into the thermal paste/contact of the block to the CPU, but that might be one point of concern, specially as your temp raises to 40 under web browsing. I personally never trust the stock paste that comes with the cooler. I clean and purify the surfaces and use something like MX4...

 

[Valantar]

As I see it, you have two options: get an adapter and connect the link cable to an external USB port, or get a PWM splitter cable and connect (and control) your fans from a motherboard fan connector. We discussed this issue in a thread a while ago, apparently the Corsair AIOs default to a very low fan speed if the link cable is disconnected. It's not malfunctioning, you're simply not using it in the way it was designed to be used.

 

[DesiPower]

Yes, the USB is not just for link, it also powers that thing...

 

[EXCellR8]

Affirmative... I reluctantly tried this exact model but I was pleasantly surprised at how great it worked right out of the box.

The link cable is something entirely different. You could technically solder up a USB 3.0 adapter if you have the tools and the patience.

 

[Ranulf]

Just get a internal converter or adapter. It won't be pretty in some situations depending on how you do it.

This looks like it should work from 3.0 female to male 2.0: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...b_internal_adapter-_-9SIA2JX2F27969-_-Product

From the pictures it looks like the corsair usb connector is 2.0 female. Also looks like the whole unit gets power from sata and not usb? Though maybe it powers the leds or gets extra from the usb port.

 

[DesiPower]

i was gonna suggest the same adapter, if you (OP) want to continue using the same cooler then better get one of those, you can also look in Amazon or flebay (search for item number 272067459540).

 

[Valantar]

Yeah, of course, if the OP has a free internal 3.0 header an internal adapter would be the best choice. Cheap, does the job, and you don't need to route cables from the inside of the case to the outside. I just assumed there was only one header (and that this was occupied by front panel USB).

 

[Crescendo]

Not sure is my post will be any helpful, but I have "Corsair Hydro Series H100i GTX Extreme Performance Water / Liquid CPU Cooler. 240mm (CW-9060021-WW)" I am using it on X99 Taichi mobo and the CPU is i7-6850. It's running constantly at 4.2 GHz so I would say that it's decently OCed. I have run HandBrake for extended period, CPU utilization at 100% and temp never goes over 56 degrees. H100i GTX does have a USB interface and Corsair link only works with that. The fans connect to the cooler itself and do not go to the mobo header.

My mobo does report pump speed, and as temp rises, the pump speed does go up. I can hear the pump too, even at the lowest default profile (don't remember the name) its too loud to my liking, so I have created my own profile which keep the pump at 20% and at that speed its barely audible. My mobo does not report the Fan speeds though but I can hear them spin faster too as temp rises.

Not sure who much care you have put into the thermal paste/contact of the block to the CPU, but that might be one point of concern, specially as your temp raises to 40 under web browsing. I personally never trust the stock paste that comes with the cooler. I clean and purify the surfaces and use something like MX4...

I've cleaned the paste off twice and replaced it with MX-4 didnt use too much or too little and the block appears to be making good contact. I can't hear my pump at all so I'm either deaf of it's not working or it's running a VERY LOW speed. I mean my CPU usage goes up and down based off what I'm doing so if I load the browser it will pop up to 40c and then drop back down and sit between 35-40. I think that's pretty normal, I mean I idle at 35c so going up 5c from 30-50% utilization seems pretty normal to me if I'm not mistaken.

Also how does your motherboard report pump speed? I was told that the only way to see pump speed was with the link, are you using the link? and how the heck can you hear your pump at 20%? I can't hear mine period... even at 800rpms the fans are way louder than the pump. Almost makes me feel like the pumps not even working if you can hear yours. Also my fans and pump don't ramp up when temps go up, it stays the same speed no matter what. I have the fans plugged into the splitter that plugs into the CPU_fan on the motherboard just like Corsair directs you to do. so I'm assuming you use the corsair link? Also 56c with a stress test is EXTREMELY low, I barely get that with stock voltage/speeds.

 

[Crescendo]

As I see it, you have two options: get an adapter and connect the link cable to an external USB port, or get a PWM splitter cable and connect (and control) your fans from a motherboard fan connector. We discussed this issue in a thread a while ago, apparently the Corsair AIOs default to a very low fan speed if the link cable is disconnected. It's not malfunctioning, you're simply not using it in the way it was designed to be used.

Yeah I know of these 2 options but my motherboard doesn't have a 2.0 HEADER so I can't even use the link if I wanted to, I just want to verify my pump is working properly and adjust fan speed, I dont care about anything else really. Also theres no way of knowing if the pump is working or not without the LINK so who's to say it's NOT malfunctioning, I can't hear it pumping or feel it vibrate.

 

[Crescendo]

Affirmative... I reluctantly tried this exact model but I was pleasantly surprised at how great it worked right out of the box.

The link cable is something entirely different. You could technically solder up a USB 3.0 adapter if you have the tools and the patience.

Are you using the Corsair Link and if so what is your pump speed and what % are your fans running at? also what is your voltage/temps?

 

[Crescendo]

Yeah, of course, if the OP has a free internal 3.0 header an internal adapter would be the best choice. Cheap, does the job, and you don't need to route cables from the inside of the case to the outside. I just assumed there was only one header (and that this was occupied by front panel USB).

There is, and it's.. that's the issue, I'm aware of these adapters but I dont want my case to look like **** and have to run like 3 adapaters. I guess I don't have much of a choice at this point. I'll go ahead and order the required adapters, but I'm just trying to get an idea of people experiences with these AIO's because I feel like even out of the box with low pump speed and low fan speed my temps are a little too high, my old 212 did better than my current AIO the way it's setup which to me is strange.

Can anyone recommend a USB 3.0 to 3.0 splitter? then maybe a 3.0 to 2.0 cable so I can run the USB 3.0 to 3.0 splitter and retain my front USB and install the link?

 

[Crescendo]

This is what my setup looks like:

http://imgur.com/G5aF6tF

I followed the Corsair directions to a T, used the proper mounting hardware and I did criss cross pattern with just the right amount of Paste. The block does not move at all and it's sitting flush I made sure the mounting bracket was facing the proper way and I double checked everything and have remounted multiple times. I cannot tell if my pumps working, cant tell the pump or fan speeds or anything all I can say is my PC is inaudable and the fans look like they're barely spinning. I have tried multiple configurations for my case fans and I have oriented them best based off my setup and temperatures. This is NOT user error at this point, it's either faulty equipment or improper configuration. I have followed instructions from Corsair, have built and installed 100's of heatsinks with zero issues. Like I said my Cryorig H7 and Evo 212 both run cooler than this AIO currently, which is NOT right. I should be able to happily hit 4.5-4.7 without going over 75c.

 

[Crescendo]

Also what if I dont want to run the corsair link? I mean who wants a big wire running accross their case? so basically this whole unit is useless without it? because you cant raise pump or fan speeds enough to properly cool? as far as I'm concerned even at 30% fan speed and 25% pump speed I should still be seeing better temps than I am. Jeeze this will probably be my LAST AIO if they are this much work for this little performance. I bought one for aesthetics I didnt even expect better performance than my air coolers (well I did but to an extent.) and so far thats all its delivered is aesthetics... It doesnt cool better than a $20 air cooler and thats a big problem considering I dropped $125 on this unit... But it's stupid because everyone else claims like 55c overclocked yet here I am sitting at 70c overclocked heh.

I basically paid $$200 for a 500mhz overclock very irritated right now.

/edit sorry for the rant guys just very very pissed off at this cooler lol. Is there even a way I can run the corsair link so it doesnt look ugly?

 

[Valantar]

There is, and it's.. that's the issue, I'm aware of these adapters but I dont want my case to look like **** and have to run like 3 adapaters. I guess I don't have much of a choice at this point. I'll go ahead and order the required adapters, but I'm just trying to get an idea of people experiences with these AIO's because I feel like even out of the box with low pump speed and low fan speed my temps are a little too high, my old 212 did better than my current AIO the way it's setup which to me is strange.

You don't seem to quite be following along.

A) my first post mentioned either using an adapter to connect to an external USB port (in which case whether it's USB 2.0 or 3.0 is irrelevant) or getting a simple PWM splitter cable to run the fans off of the motherboard. The first is a janky solution, the second a decent one, although you lose the link functionality.
B) An internal adapter doesn't make a mess if you pay a tiny bit of attention. Route it through a cable grommet, do the same with your link cable, hide the mess behind your motherboard. Done. No mess, no fuss, no problems.
C) You'll order the required adapters? Whatever the scenario, you only need one. Either internal USB 3.0 to 2.0 (best), PWM splitter (second best, but with its drawbacks), or internal USB 2.0 to external USB 2.0 (most janky-looking "stick some duct tape on it" solution).

Wirh the internal USB adapter, you connect everything as per the AIO's manual, except the link cable goes into the USB adapter first. No other adapters required.

If you go for the PWM splitter, you use one of these. Period. Your pump gets power from a SATA connector. With this solution, you don't get to monitor pump speeds. Still only one adapter. And there's absolutely zero reason to combine these two solutions.

 

[DesiPower]

I've cleaned the paste off twice and replaced it with MX-4 didnt use too much or too little and the block appears to be making good contact. I can't hear my pump at all so I'm either deaf of it's not working or it's running a VERY LOW speed. I mean my CPU usage goes up and down based off what I'm doing so if I load the browser it will pop up to 40c and then drop back down and sit between 35-40. I think that's pretty normal, I mean I idle at 35c so going up 5c from 30-50% utilization seems pretty normal to me if I'm not mistaken.

Also how does your motherboard report pump speed? I was told that the only way to see pump speed was with the link, are you using the link? and how the heck can you hear your pump at 20%? I can't hear mine period... even at 800rpms the fans are way louder than the pump. Almost makes me feel like the pumps not even working if you can hear yours. Also my fans and pump don't ramp up when temps go up, it stays the same speed no matter what. I have the fans plugged into the splitter that plugs into the CPU_fan on the motherboard just like Corsair directs you to do. so I'm assuming you use the corsair link? Also 56c with a stress test is EXTREMELY low, I barely get that with stock voltage/speeds.

You cooling system will not work as intended or may not work at all is it's not getting the USB power...

So the cooling system comes with a 3 pin connector that goes into the mobo header, I believe that's the pump as I can see the rpm reported by the mobo match what link shows. I cannot hear the pump at 600, but at 800 I can definitely hear it...

 

[Crescendo]

You don't seem to quite be following along.

A) my first post mentioned either using an adapter to connect to an external USB port (in which case whether it's USB 2.0 or 3.0 is irrelevant) or getting a simple PWM splitter cable to run the fans off of the motherboard. The first is a janky solution, the second a decent one, although you lose the link functionality.
B) An internal adapter doesn't make a mess if you pay a tiny bit of attention. Route it through a cable grommet, do the same with your link cable, hide the mess behind your motherboard. Done. No mess, no fuss, no problems.
C) You'll order the required adapters? Whatever the scenario, you only need one. Either internal USB 3.0 to 2.0 (best), PWM splitter (second best, but with its drawbacks), or internal USB 2.0 to external USB 2.0 (most janky-looking "stick some duct tape on it" solution).

Wirh the internal USB adapter, you connect everything as per the AIO's manual, except the link cable goes into the USB adapter first. No other adapters required.

If you go for the PWM splitter, you use one of these. Period. Your pump gets power from a SATA connector. With this solution, you don't get to monitor pump speeds. Still only one adapter. And there's absolutely zero reason to combine these two solutions.

No I get it man... just I want my front USB so I would need a USB 3.0 x 2 splitter and then another adapter for 3.0 to 2.0 then i'd have to connect it all up behind the back panel somewhere, but I still have to run the Link Cable from the CPU block to the adapter in the rear and the closest grommet requires it to run over 1/4th of the motherboard, if I could id prefer not to use the link. Yes I can run a splitter to the Radiator fans off the motherboard but then I can't control pump speed or even see if it's working properly which is my main gripe... If my pump is only running at 20% or less then my water isn't going to even move fast enough to cool and I'd prefer to keep my fans quiet since they are louder than the pump currently at only 800rpm. So fan control isn't the biggest issue it's just part of the issue. I can order the adapters but then I have an ugly cable running which I'd prefer not to have since I bought this AIO purely for aesthetics and that will ruin that. I can do the fan splitter method but then how do I turn the pump up and/or check if its working? can I connect the link turn the pump up then disconnect the link and it will stay? if that's a viable option I would go that route.

Also I'm just making sure the mounts are proper and I don't require washers, if you google Corsair AIO Washers a ton of videos and threads come up about people going from around 75-80c to like 50-60c because their bracket has play, mine also has play but Corsair says it's normal...

 

[Crescendo]

You cooling system will not work as intended or may not work at all is it's not getting the USB power...

So the cooling system comes with a 3 pin connector that goes into the mobo header, I believe that's the pump as I can see the rpm reported by the mobo match what link shows. I cannot hear the pump at 600, but at 800 I can definitely hear it...

If I'm not mistaken the Pump gets its power from a SATA connector which it's currently plugged into, and then you get the Control through the CPU header on the motherboard. I'm almost 100% sure the pump doesnt require the Link to run properly. You can see your pump speed because you're using the LINK I am not, so I cannot see the pump speed which is part of my issue. I can't even tell if my pump is working.

Also if your temps are that cool at 600 from the pump and it's not audable then that must mean I'm running around 600, yet your temps seem really good and mine are bad in comparison, you claim 56c while stress testing and overclocked yet I hit 70c stress testing while overclocked. Then again I'm probably pushing a much higher voltage, what's your voltage currently? I'm running close to 1.3v for 4.5ghz

Honestly I'd be happy with only a 4.5ghz overclock if my temps were reasonable, somewhere around 65c stress tests and 55c gaming would make me happy. But going close to 72c on my Intel with a 4.5ghz overclock is just not cool... Yeah I know its only 5c different then what I'm getting now but 5c means alot when you're on the edge of max thermals.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

You say "72C @ 4.5" for what I'm guessing is an i7-6700K processor.

You say your voltage setting is between 1.28 and 1.3V, which is just right for 4.5Ghz. You installed the processor as-is, direct-from-factory in shrink-wrap. You did not de-lid the processor and re-lid it with Liquid Ultra.

I took almost six months just to look at AiO coolers and ponder the prospects. I picked an air-cooler that fell short by 5C compared to an EKWB Predator 240. My processor has been re-lidded with CLU. My temperatures are ~ 68C @ 4.6Ghz and ~ 1.35V. With the re-lidded chip, I beat the EKWB by 7C. That's running affinitized LinX or Prime95.

Without the relidding, I'd see temperatures would be well above 80C for the same cooler. A dual-fan EXOS cooler (water kit) on a 6700K, no re-lid and 4.7Ghz gives about 80C as peak package temperature in a test review.

So I don't think your temperatures are much to worry about. I'd take the time to satisfy myself that all is working properly: the pump and pump-control, fans and fan-control. After that, there are still options such as those I've implied here.

What you worry about are your plans and expectations. You can still exceed those expectations, but it will either cost you time and risk, $50 if you send the chip to Silicon Lottery. The only way to beat that would involve a bigger investment in water-cooling than an H110i.

 

[Crescendo]

You say "72C @ 4.5" for what I'm guessing is an i7-6700K processor.

You say your voltage setting is between 1.28 and 1.3V, which is just right for 4.5Ghz. You installed the processor as-is, direct-from-factory in shrink-wrap. You did not de-lid the processor and re-lid it with Liquid Ultra.

I took almost six months just to look at AiO coolers and ponder the prospects. I picked an air-cooler that fell short by 5C compared to an EKWB Predator 240. My processor has been re-lidded with CLU. My temperatures are ~ 68C @ 4.6Ghz and ~ 1.35V. With the re-lidded chip, I beat the EKWB by 7C. That's running affinitized LinX or Prime95.

Without the relidding, I'd see temperatures would be well above 80C for the same cooler. A dual-fan EXOS cooler (water kit) on a 6700K, no re-lid and 4.7Ghz gives about 80C as peak package temperature in a test review.

So I don't think your temperatures are much to worry about. I'd take the time to satisfy myself that all is working properly: the pump and pump-control, fans and fan-control. After that, there are still options such as those I've implied here.

What you worry about are your plans and expectations. You can still exceed those expectations, but it will either cost you time and risk, $50 if you send the chip to Silicon Lottery. The only way to beat that would involve a bigger investment in water-cooling than an H110i.

So maybe me and you both lost the Silicon Lottery, but at the same time I still feel temps should be lower. I'm sure if I turn my fan speed up a bit and my pump speed up a bit I could have lower temps so I guess I should see what I can do with that. But at the moment I'm severely dissapointed in this and I will probably not buy an AIO ever again. I might not even buy a K processor ever again since the last 3 I've bought didn't overclock for ****. I see all these people getting 4.6-4.7 on air with a 6700K and their temps are like 55-60c yet with a $125 AIO I cant even safely reach 4.5. Just complete BS, Intel needs to not even bother selling K CPU's if it's going to be a lottery just to get one that can overclock. I feel like it's all a big gimmick so they can make more money without any real performance gains.

Just so peeved at the industry lately with this BS. I'll grab the adapters and get the Link cable setup and I'll report back with my findings.

I was hoping to hit 4.7 GHZ @ 1.35v but I guess that's not going to happen on this crappy cooler... I mean damn I paid $225 just to overclock extra on my build and for what? 500mhz? what a load of crap.

 

[EXCellR8]

Are you using the Corsair Link and if so what is your pump speed and what % are your fans running at? also what is your voltage/temps?

Not using link but I can monitor the speed of the pump with the DB software. My pump is only connected to a header at the bottom of my motherboard. This gives it power and allows the software to monitor the system.

I have the 6600k so my temps are probably slightly lower, but even when I boost the voltage past 1.3v I barely notice any temperature changes. This kit is also extremely quiet compared to my custom loops.

My suggestion would be to remove the cooler, clean it along with the heat spreader on the CPU, and then use some good TIM before you reinstall the AIO. You should be able to test the pump with a regular USB cable, theoretically...

 

[BonzaiDuck]

So maybe me and you both lost the Silicon Lottery, but at the same time I still feel temps should be lower. I'm sure if I turn my fan speed up a bit and my pump speed up a bit I could have lower temps so I guess I should see what I can do with that. But at the moment I'm severely dissapointed in this and I will probably not buy an AIO ever again. I might not even buy a K processor ever again since the last 3 I've bought didn't overclock for ****. I see all these people getting 4.6-4.7 on air with a 6700K and their temps are like 55-60c yet with a $125 AIO I cant even safely reach 4.5. Just complete BS, Intel needs to not even bother selling K CPU's if it's going to be a lottery just to get one that can overclock. I feel like it's all a big gimmick so they can make more money without any real performance gains.

Just so peeved at the industry lately with this BS. I'll grab the adapters and get the Link cable setup and I'll report back with my findings.

I was hoping to hit 4.7 GHZ @ 1.35v but I guess that's not going to happen on this crappy cooler... I mean damn I paid $225 just to overclock extra on my build and for what? 500mhz? what a load of crap.

I think I'd refuse to make that conclusion -- about "losing" the lottery. I think you SHOULD be penny-wise about how you spend the money, but do you ever gamble? Play the slots or the black-jack tables at the local Indian casino? I paid extra to avoid part of the gamble with a CPU purchase. It probably cost me ~$80 extra for a chip binned and tested to run at 4.8Ghz and 1.42V. Add the de-lidding, and I spent $130.

Some chips may just not reach 4.7, 4.8 -- or even the possible 4.9. [4.9Ghz still costs more at Silly Lottery].

Here is what you can expect -- more or less -- from an i7-6700K, assuming you didn't get the dregs in the "lottery:"

You can imagine that each voltage point has a frequency distribution around it.

The problem, of course, is temperature. At 4.7, you are still likely to reach 80C with a watercooler -- AiO or custom-kit with maybe a 240mm radiator. Getting the TIM replaced between the IHS and the processor die earned me 12C. Some chips may show 18C improvement; others less than 12C.

If I only clock my processor to 4.6 at this moment, it's because I really don't want to volt it past 1.40V and 4.7 is "right on the line." I chose to pay extra for "binned @ 4.8." Didn't mean I would CLOCK it to 4.8 for constant 24/7 running.

And I suppose I knew what sort of clocks I might get in general with these chips. So I'm not so discontent about the results.

Just an afterthought: It may have been two years ago when someone here posted his project for a Corsair Vengeance C70 case and an H80i cooler with an i7-4790K Devils Canyon Haswell.

He had managed to clock the processor to 4.6 or 4.7, reporting stress temperatures around 75C. But he didn't want it running that hot, and his final overclock setting put it at 4.4 on all cores -- or just slightly better than the stock setting. This problem with the chip fabrication choices made by Intel affected more than just one generation of processors.

Also, folks can play fast and loose with the facts. Did they verify their clock and voltage setting under AIDA64 or ROG RealBench? Or did they verify it with IBT, LinX, Prime95 etc.? Did they mean that "the processor boots and runs" at some clock setting, or that it is rock-stable at that setting?

 

[Valantar]

Just complete BS, Intel needs to not even bother selling K CPU's if it's going to be a lottery just to get one that can overclock.

Uhm... Overclocking is a gamble. Always. Nothing is guaranteed. What you pay for with K SKUs is higher stock clocks and an unlocked multiplier. Anything else is a bonus.

I feel like it's all a big gimmick so they can make more money without any real performance gains

Yes and no. You get higher base and boost clocks than even the fastest non-K SKUs. Other than that, again, you pay for the privilege of getting an unlocked multiplier and semi-official overclocking support. But there are, of course, no guarantees. If that was possible, Intel would be selling higher clocked SKUs.

 

[Ketchup]

Uhm... Overclocking is a gamble. Always. Nothing is guaranteed. What you pay for with K SKUs is higher stock clocks and an unlocked multiplier. Anything else is a bonus....

This. If you wanted to know what your improvements would be with water OP, it would have been best to push your CPU on air first. Then you would know what it was capable of, and if the water setup was truly giving you an improvement in temps. Based on the numbers I am seeing from you, they aren't that bad. Enjoy your CPU. Don't stress over it.

 

[Ranulf]

Wow, that evga FTW mobo is just weird. It has 7 fan headers and at the bottom it has a spare pci-e power connector (6 pin looks like). Only one internal usb header, 3.0. Crazy for an atx mobo (for itx/matx I could see it) but I guess certain features for a particular price point. Another data point for me to keep an eye on, usb headers.

Sorry OP, but get a 3.0 splitter for the front panel and the 2.0 adapter for the link or go dual fan 212 evo (or whatever HSF), you've got the fan headers on that mobo for sure lol.