Discussion Considering upgrading 2500K business PC (UPDATED)

[Flayed]

Is there a newer bios for your motherboard?

 

[VirtualLarry]

Well, I guess, you have a nice new CPU and computer being dragged down by your old SSDs. I guess I am done here.

Edit: You make this complaint "but it hangs sometimes when I'm opening something. ", and I give you advice for the solution, and you say "that's funny".

Well good luck.

Yes, a lot of people don't realize this, but in the "race to the bottom" with consumer SSDs, sometimes, especially if they are well-used and internally-fragmented, or full-up, or just not TRIM'ed regularly, they can at some points be slower than a new-ish HDD, which are still getting faster, especially in extended sequential writes, such as immediately after an OS install, when the SLC write cache gets used-up (temporarily). I ran into that with the Adata SU800, after the SLC cache was exhausted, it continued to write at only 30-33MB/sec. A decent HDD could write at 100MB/sec continuously, if it's not "shingled".

 

[Charlie98]

Yes, a lot of people don't realize this, but in the "race to the bottom" with consumer SSDs, sometimes, especially if they are well-used and internally-fragmented, or full-up, or just not TRIM'ed regularly, they can at some points be slower than a new-ish HDD, which are still getting faster, especially in extended sequential writes, such as immediately after an OS install, when the SLC write cache gets used-up (temporarily). I ran into that with the Adata SU800, after the SLC cache was exhausted, it continued to write at only 30-33MB/sec. A decent HDD could write at 100MB/sec continuously, if it's not "shingled".

I bought this SSD just for this upgrade, some time ago. I initially had it in my game rig upstairs... after my 840Pro crashed on me, I don't take OS drives right out of the box and install them, anymore, I put them in service as a scratch drive and work them for a bit. I wipe them with the Acronis utility before installing them as the OS drive.

I know what you mean... I was fooling with my old 60GB Agility3... boy howdy, as soon as that thing got to about 80% capacity, performance took a nosedive!

 

[Arkaign]

I just tried to open Acronis, again... it took... and I'm not exaggerating... 4 minutes to open.

Is this a totally clear install on a formatted drive using 1909 W10 USB media? I'm trying to understand if you might have tried the Acronis Universal Restore image thing, which CAN and often does work just fine, but probably not ideal considering the dramatic changes between these systems.

 

[Charlie98]

no, I only do clean installs from disk. Oddly enough, I mentioned the optical drive SATA cable was bad... I couldn’t get it to load off the CD, so I did load W10Pro off a USB stick this time. 1909 rings a bell... it’s a brand new disk/USB.

I do use Acronis to backup my OS drive every night, that’s why it’s important.

 

[Arkaign]

Ok cool deal. I was just curious, as True Image has that Universal Restore function that can be useful, though in cases like yours I'd definitely be looking at a fresh install first, as you have.

 

[Charlie98]

Acronis is purely an emergency backup... many moons ago my brand new 840Pro died all of a sudden, all that saved me was an Acronis backup that I did as a trial the night before. Because of that, I have become a backup maniac.

 

[Arkaign]

You picked a good one. Acronis is pretty solid, and easy enough to figure out. It's not always flawless, but I use it for some clients (backing up incremental TIB files to server and cloud), and even if they have a particular system bomb out on them (or get destroyed/lost/stolen), Universal Restore means I can restore their full Windows install, applications, drive letters, and other vagaries onto either a permanent replacement or loaner unit within the hour, no digging through dozens or hundreds of steps to set it back up exactly the same way. Occasionally I'll have to fight a driver or uninstall a bunch of no longer relevant drivers though.

 

[Charlie98]

It worked well for me... and it was untried at that point, I didn't really know if it would work. I was back up and running in 30 minutes...

 

[jdfelosi]

im basically in the same process as you with the 2500k, i went ahead and went amd, my purpose of upgarde was my gtx280 died and bought an rx580 at a sweet deal of 120 new and it won't work on the asrock p67ex4. keeping case / psu / and drives (temporarily)
upgrade has cost me
rx580 8gb 120$ (newegg)
gigabyte b450 aorus elite 87$ (amazon)
oloy ddr4 3000mhz cl15 32gb (2x16kits 4x8) 112$ . (i was sceptical of this brand, but the chips are identical to what the corsair ballistix)
AM4 bracket for my true 120 . (free via email)
ryzen 7 2700 . 125$ (used fb marketplace)
500gb pi nvme 86$ amazon . (used wharehouse return)

spent about 550$ overall, then sold my asrock p67, i5 2500k, 16gb hyperx memory for 120, so im at like 420 out of pocket.

 

[Charlie98]

I considered selling the 2500K, but it's such a good chip, I'll probably replace the i3 processor in the HTPC, which I don't really care for.

Interesting... I saw that Oloy memory, too. I wound up with true 3200MHz Ballistix... it was on sale at MicroCenter.