Car engine damaged - oil drain plug missing

[gururu2]

here is a quick test. remove the oil cap on the valve cover and turn the car on. if the light turns on, it means that it is reading pressure. if not, it is reading the volume.

 

[jlee]

here is a quick test. remove the oil cap on the valve cover and turn the car on. if the light turns on, it means that it is reading pressure. if not, it is reading the volume.

For this statement to be true, the oil cap on the valve cover would have to be capping a pressurized oil passage (which is not the case).

 

[crashtech]

Many but not all vehicles have an oil lever sensor. It's a different sensor than the pressure sensor, and I personally have not seen it ever share an indicator with the oil pressure idiot light. The last one I saw had an alphanumeric display that actually told you that the oil level was low.

 

[gururu2]

For this statement to be true, the oil cap on the valve cover would have to be capping a pressurized oil passage (which is not the case).

really? because it makes one helluva mess

 

[LTC8K6]

While this is a very well thought, and drawn out post. And I appreciate the time you took to craft it. No one is saying you are wrong, or right. People came at me saying there is no "low oil" light on the vehicle. And that is incorrect.

Okay then, your "low oil" light is only coming on when the oil gets "engine damage" low, such that the oil pump has begun to occasionally suck air, and the internals are occasionally seeing no lubrication at all while you are driving.

You are getting no warning of your oil level prior to engine damage.

I wouldn't buy a car from a company that thought it was okay to warn you of low oil level only after engine damage is occurring.

I would stick to manufacturers that warn me of low oil pressure, which is critical, and indicate low oil level when I am down a quart, so I can add oil before engine damage occurs.

 

[CurrentlyPissed]

Okay then, your "low oil" light is only coming on when the oil gets "engine damage" low, such that the oil pump has begun to occasionally suck air, and the internals are occasionally seeing no lubrication at all while you are driving.

You are getting no warning of your oil level prior to engine damage.

I wouldn't buy a car from a company that thought it was okay to warn you of low oil level only after engine damage is occurring.

I would stick to manufacturers that warn me of low oil pressure, which is critical, and indicate low oil level when I am down a quart, so I can add oil before engine damage occurs.

No. If you drove on it like that for miles, with a constant light on. Sure. But it's not going to do instant damage.

 

[LTC8K6]

No. If you drove on it like that for miles, with a constant light on. Sure. But it's not going to do instant damage.

Nope, your "low oil" light will only flicker at first, and you are unlikely to notice it.

By the time it stays on, it will have been flickering occasionally for a while. Your engine will already have repeatedly been subject to zero oil pressure.


I want my low oil level light to come on at a safe oil level.

 

[Ferzerp]

I've never seen someone quintuple down on stupid to this degree. Wow.

At this point is it not to the point of thread crapping?

compnovice has asked for help and advice, but it can't be done because of mr low oil light ruining his thread.

 

[Sabrewings]

I wouldn't buy a car from a company that thought it was okay to warn you of low oil level only after engine damage is occurring.

Don't buy Subarus then. The factory oil pressure switch goes off at 2PSI. The communities refer to it as the "Engine is done" light. I modified our two DD Subarus to come on at 15 PSI. My weekend toy STI I replaced it with an oil pressure sender and gauge.

Want to know how much confidence they put in that switch? It's a normally off design, so the light doesn't come on when you unplug it. Makes it easy for us enthusiasts to add aftermarket senders, but really stupid design from an OEM standpoint.

Anyway, enough tangent for me there.

 

[CurrentlyPissed]

I've never seen someone quintuple down on stupid to this degree. Wow.

At this point is it not to the point of thread crapping?

compnovice has asked for help and advice, but it can't be done because of mr low oil light ruining his thread.

I've asked twice for others to take it to another thread, and already apologized to the OP because people can't move on. I've done nothing but respond.

Your post is more thread crapping than anything anyone else has posted, it's off the discussion and causing me to continue a useless discussion that in no way relates to the original post.

 

[Banana]

update?

 

[Purpledawn]

This very same thing happened to me and in the exact same way and NO. No one vandalized the vehicle.

 

[Sgt. York]

Well, I'm glad we got that cleared up.,

 

[BonzaiDuck]

how do you like them? I've considered getting one for my truck, but the whole spring system scares me a little bit (spring pressure to keep it shut)

First -- to Kelwick -- thanks for reminding me to follow through with a blob of RTV sealant.

Interesting that this topic came up in the OP's catastrophic loss saga.

I have a new Fumoto 106N in a box of extra new parts out in the garage, and I might have used it. I'd recommend them.

Even so, I also tried out the Valvo-Max drain valve. It uses the same ball-valve design as the Fumoto, but doesn't require fiddling with the little switch to open it. Instead, you just screw in a fitting with a 1-foot plastic hose on it, stick the hose in waste-oil container, and twist it clockwise all the way. Just before it won't turn anymore, it drains.

I discovered leftover mistakes from my "Mechanic from Hell" experience last summer. In addition to the serial cluster-f*** of damage he did (now corrected), he also failed to reconnect the fuel-pressure-control-valve to the intake manifold, and he broke the PCV valve in half. I had suddenly decided a couple weeks ago to test my gas-mileage -- way too low for that car -- and found this mechanic-damage. My oil was contaminated with gasoline combustion by-products. Lucky I'd only run it for at most 2,000 miles since the Mechanic from Hell encounter.

First time I got to test the Valvo-Max, and I was totally pleased. It has a screw-on cap with a rubber gasket. Fumoto doesn't have this feature.

But like I said, I'd recommend either one.

It appears that the OP also crossed paths with a Mechanic from Hell.

As for the OP, I could say that if you like the Hyundai and it has "other" longevity features and reputation, the engine replacement could cost $3,000 to $5,000 (and I solicit any corrections to this guess). It's a 2011 model. Replacing it with new -- or newer -- will likely cost you twice that amount, and maybe a factor of three or four.

YOU have the repair history on the car. YOU should know what sub-systems are ending their expected-life cycle. Buying another used vehicle carries more uncertainties.

So you could consider an engine replacement -- by some shop or dealership who know what they're doing. I've had two cars for which I'd invested in a remanufactured engine or a comprehensive over-haul, and they ran better than the car did when new.

It's a hefty piece of change -- I grant you that . . . .

 

[Greenman]

Don't buy Subarus then. The factory oil pressure switch goes off at 2PSI. The communities refer to it as the "Engine is done" light. I modified our two DD Subarus to come on at 15 PSI. My weekend toy STI I replaced it with an oil pressure sender and gauge.

Want to know how much confidence they put in that switch? It's a normally off design, so the light doesn't come on when you unplug it. Makes it easy for us enthusiasts to add aftermarket senders, but really stupid design from an OEM standpoint.

Anyway, enough tangent for me there.

My V-Rod has the same setup. Harley used their standard fits all oil pressure sender that goes on at 5 psi. Revolution engines fail at just under 10.

Back on topic. I think the OP is toast. Near impossible to prove the dealer caused the problem, and I've never heard of car insurance that covers mechanical failure. Long outside chance an extended warranty might cover it, but that seems unlikely.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

My V-Rod has the same setup. Harley used their standard fits all oil pressure sender that goes on at 5 psi. Revolution engines fail at just under 10.

Back on topic. I think the OP is toast. Near impossible to prove the dealer caused the problem, and I've never heard of car insurance that covers mechanical failure. Long outside chance an extended warranty might cover it, but that seems unlikely.

And . . . as I said . . . if I were the OP, I'd be at a decision point. I would look through my entire shop-order repair history over the 9 or less years' ownership, and assess whether to replace the engine, overhaul the engine, or look for a complete vehicle replacement. Given the prevailing assessments here about warranty and insurance prospects, that would be the next step. And -- if necessary -- shop around for an unsecured $5,000 loan. Or -- in the latter choice -- a $10,000+ loan in tandem with a search at CARFAX, CARMAX, dealerships and newspaper ads . . .