anyone have any car audio, remote start or alarm questions?

[rudeguy]

I also answer questions about home electronics, appliances, and things that glow in the dark.

 

[KLin]

What's the best toaster out there?

 

[wedi42]

you will install a remote starter in my 5 speed for free?

 

[FleshLight]

What would be the best head unit/speaker/amp/sub combo for less than $400?

 

[rudeguy]

Originally posted by: KLin
What's the best toaster out there?

definately the one that accepts bread and turns it into toast. I like the ones that are shiny.

 

[rudeguy]

Originally posted by: johngute
you will install a remote starter in my 5 speed for free?

negative. But I will shine your shoes!

 

[wedi42]

Originally posted by: GoodDad

Originally posted by: johngute
you will install a remote starter in my 5 speed for free?

negative. But I will shine your shoes!

all right, i'm on my way over

 

[rudeguy]

Originally posted by: FleshLight
What would be the best head unit/speaker/amp/sub combo for less than $400?

JVC 110 deck, xtreme (by directed audio) speakers, amp and sub will run you under $400

 

[DingDingDao]

Ok, here's a more complicated question. I have an Eclipse 7002 head unit with the control box under the driver's footwell. I'm running two amplifiers, an Alpine V12 driving MB Quart 5.25" components in the front, and a Rockford Fosgate amp driving two JL 12W6s in a sealed box in the trunk. Lately I've been having problems with a power drain on the car--after about 36 hrs w/o driving, the battery is dead and I can't start the car. My mechanic used a multimeter to measure current draw from the battery when the car was off, and something in my audio system is drawing 4 amps at idle. It's not the amps (I disconnected them and the power drain still occurs). Is it possible for a head unit to draw 4 amps at idle? Is there a quick and easy solution to this problem?

 

[rudeguy]

Originally posted by: DingDingDao
Ok, here's a more complicated question. I have an Eclipse 7002 head unit with the control box under the driver's footwell. I'm running two amplifiers, an Alpine V12 driving MB Quart 5.25" components in the front, and a Rockford Fosgate amp driving two JL 12W6s in a sealed box in the trunk. Lately I've been having problems with a power drain on the car--after about 36 hrs w/o driving, the battery is dead and I can't start the car. My mechanic used a multimeter to measure current draw from the battery when the car was off, and something in my audio system is drawing 4 amps at idle. It's not the amps (I disconnected them and the power drain still occurs). Is it possible for a head unit to draw 4 amps at idle? Is there a quick and easy solution to this problem?

It is possible but not likely. The easy way to test would be to pull the deck out and put a multimeter on the red and yellow wires seperately. They yellow is your constant so it should be drawing a little power, and the red should only draw power when your engine is on.

 

[DingDingDao]

Originally posted by: GoodDad

Originally posted by: DingDingDao
Ok, here's a more complicated question. I have an Eclipse 7002 head unit with the control box under the driver's footwell. I'm running two amplifiers, an Alpine V12 driving MB Quart 5.25" components in the front, and a Rockford Fosgate amp driving two JL 12W6s in a sealed box in the trunk. Lately I've been having problems with a power drain on the car--after about 36 hrs w/o driving, the battery is dead and I can't start the car. My mechanic used a multimeter to measure current draw from the battery when the car was off, and something in my audio system is drawing 4 amps at idle. It's not the amps (I disconnected them and the power drain still occurs). Is it possible for a head unit to draw 4 amps at idle? Is there a quick and easy solution to this problem?

It is possible but not likely. The easy way to test would be to pull the deck out and put a multimeter on the red and yellow wires seperately. They yellow is your constant so it should be drawing a little power, and the red should only draw power when your engine is on.

Thing is, I've had this deck in for almost 4 years (I did the install myself). Didn't have any problems until recently. I haven't messed with the wiring or anything, so I don't think it's a wiring issue.

 

[rudeguy]

Originally posted by: DingDingDao

Originally posted by: GoodDad

Originally posted by: DingDingDao
Ok, here's a more complicated question. I have an Eclipse 7002 head unit with the control box under the driver's footwell. I'm running two amplifiers, an Alpine V12 driving MB Quart 5.25" components in the front, and a Rockford Fosgate amp driving two JL 12W6s in a sealed box in the trunk. Lately I've been having problems with a power drain on the car--after about 36 hrs w/o driving, the battery is dead and I can't start the car. My mechanic used a multimeter to measure current draw from the battery when the car was off, and something in my audio system is drawing 4 amps at idle. It's not the amps (I disconnected them and the power drain still occurs). Is it possible for a head unit to draw 4 amps at idle? Is there a quick and easy solution to this problem?

It is possible but not likely. The easy way to test would be to pull the deck out and put a multimeter on the red and yellow wires seperately. They yellow is your constant so it should be drawing a little power, and the red should only draw power when your engine is on.

Thing is, I've had this deck in for almost 4 years (I did the install myself). Didn't have any problems until recently. I haven't messed with the wiring or anything, so I don't think it's a wiring issue.

You are testing the deck, not the wiring. Wiring doesnt go bad, decks do.

 

[DingDingDao]

Originally posted by: GoodDad

Originally posted by: DingDingDao

Originally posted by: GoodDad

Originally posted by: DingDingDao
Ok, here's a more complicated question. I have an Eclipse 7002 head unit with the control box under the driver's footwell. I'm running two amplifiers, an Alpine V12 driving MB Quart 5.25" components in the front, and a Rockford Fosgate amp driving two JL 12W6s in a sealed box in the trunk. Lately I've been having problems with a power drain on the car--after about 36 hrs w/o driving, the battery is dead and I can't start the car. My mechanic used a multimeter to measure current draw from the battery when the car was off, and something in my audio system is drawing 4 amps at idle. It's not the amps (I disconnected them and the power drain still occurs). Is it possible for a head unit to draw 4 amps at idle? Is there a quick and easy solution to this problem?

It is possible but not likely. The easy way to test would be to pull the deck out and put a multimeter on the red and yellow wires seperately. They yellow is your constant so it should be drawing a little power, and the red should only draw power when your engine is on.

Thing is, I've had this deck in for almost 4 years (I did the install myself). Didn't have any problems until recently. I haven't messed with the wiring or anything, so I don't think it's a wiring issue.

You are testing the deck, not the wiring. Wiring doesnt go bad, decks do.

Ah, I see. Okay, so just the red and yellow wires then? I take it the yellow is the accessory power line and the red the 12V ON lead?

 

[cjgallen]

Recommend me a good 10" or 12" woofer and 4-channel amp that aren't too expensive (best bang for buck).

 

[rudeguy]

Ah, I see. Okay, so just the red and yellow wires then? I take it the yellow is the accessory power line and the red the 12V ON lead?

We call them the switch and constant respectively. The red only gets power when your car is on, the yellow always has power.

EDIT: also try the blue just for the hell of it. I have seen a couple remote leads go crazy, so try that one too. It should not have power when your deck is off.

 

[rudeguy]

Originally posted by: cjgallen
Recommend me a good 10" or 12" woofer and 4-channel amp that aren't too expensive (best bang for buck).

First off, please tell me you arent planning on running subs off a 4 channel.

 

[DingDingDao]

Originally posted by: GoodDad

Ah, I see. Okay, so just the red and yellow wires then? I take it the yellow is the accessory power line and the red the 12V ON lead?

We call them the switch and constant respectively. The red only gets power when your car is on, the yellow always has power.

Ok. If I'm drawing current from the red lead, is there some other solution other than replacing the deck? What about a 1-F cap in series or something like that?

 

[cjgallen]

Originally posted by: GoodDad

Originally posted by: cjgallen
Recommend me a good 10" or 12" woofer and 4-channel amp that aren't too expensive (best bang for buck).

First off, please tell me you arent planning on running subs off a 4 channel.

Haha no, I just need one sub, so I'll probably bridge two channels and run my mains on the other two.

 

[rudeguy]

Originally posted by: DingDingDao

Originally posted by: GoodDad

Ah, I see. Okay, so just the red and yellow wires then? I take it the yellow is the accessory power line and the red the 12V ON lead?

We call them the switch and constant respectively. The red only gets power when your car is on, the yellow always has power.

Ok. If I'm drawing current from the red lead, is there some other solution other than replacing the deck? What about a 1-F cap in series or something like that?

The cap draws power from your battery. so that would not be a good answer.

 

[rudeguy]

Originally posted by: cjgallen

Originally posted by: GoodDad

Originally posted by: cjgallen
Recommend me a good 10" or 12" woofer and 4-channel amp that aren't too expensive (best bang for buck).

First off, please tell me you arent planning on running subs off a 4 channel.

Haha no, I just need one sub, so I'll probably bridge two channels and run my mains on the other two.

a good sub needs at least 200 watts of constant power. Regular speakers usually start out at about 30. You need 2 amps my friend.

 

[DingDingDao]

Originally posted by: GoodDad

Originally posted by: DingDingDao

Originally posted by: GoodDad

Ah, I see. Okay, so just the red and yellow wires then? I take it the yellow is the accessory power line and the red the 12V ON lead?

We call them the switch and constant respectively. The red only gets power when your car is on, the yellow always has power.

Ok. If I'm drawing current from the red lead, is there some other solution other than replacing the deck? What about a 1-F cap in series or something like that?

The cap draws power from your battery. so that would not be a good answer.

Hmm. Circuit breaker in series that I turn off every time I turn the car off?

 

[cjgallen]

Originally posted by: GoodDad

Originally posted by: cjgallen

Originally posted by: GoodDad

Originally posted by: cjgallen
Recommend me a good 10" or 12" woofer and 4-channel amp that aren't too expensive (best bang for buck).

First off, please tell me you arent planning on running subs off a 4 channel.

Haha no, I just need one sub, so I'll probably bridge two channels and run my mains on the other two.

a good sub needs at least 200 watts of constant power. Regular speakers usually start out at about 30. You need 2 amps my friend.

So recommend me a good sub+amp assuming I have a 2 channel for my mains.

 

[rudeguy]

Originally posted by: DingDingDao

Originally posted by: GoodDad

Originally posted by: DingDingDao

Originally posted by: GoodDad

Ah, I see. Okay, so just the red and yellow wires then? I take it the yellow is the accessory power line and the red the 12V ON lead?

We call them the switch and constant respectively. The red only gets power when your car is on, the yellow always has power.

Ok. If I'm drawing current from the red lead, is there some other solution other than replacing the deck? What about a 1-F cap in series or something like that?

The cap draws power from your battery. so that would not be a good answer.

Hmm. Circuit breaker in series that I turn off every time I turn the car off?

A simple switch works too.

 

[rudeguy]

Originally posted by: cjgallen

Originally posted by: GoodDad

Originally posted by: cjgallen

Originally posted by: GoodDad

Originally posted by: cjgallen
Recommend me a good 10" or 12" woofer and 4-channel amp that aren't too expensive (best bang for buck).

First off, please tell me you arent planning on running subs off a 4 channel.

Haha no, I just need one sub, so I'll probably bridge two channels and run my mains on the other two.

a good sub needs at least 200 watts of constant power. Regular speakers usually start out at about 30. You need 2 amps my friend.

So recommend me a good sub+amp assuming I have a 2 channel for my mains.

best bang for the buck is the Directed Studio series subs if you can find them around. They are being replaced so there are some good deals on them. Pair up one of those 10's with a Directed 750d and it will sound very nice. Get a 12 and the 750d and you will have no complaints.

 

[cjgallen]

Are those yellow "car audio" batteries any better than an Autozone battery for normal every-day use?