anyone have any car audio, remote start or alarm questions?

[iliopsoas]

BB does not carry that model. Do a google search for directed electronics +(your city)

Direct Electronics is a company? thanks for your help.

 

[WT]

I have a factory CodeAlarm unit in my '97 Passat. I returned from a cruise and found my keys were lost in the luggage. So I used a spare set with no key fob. So how did I get into the car ? Just opened it up and the alarm started blaring. Not knowing how to disable it, I started yanking on the red (power) wire from the alarm horn to the firewall. I didn't get it loose but I did stop the alarm. I then couldn't start the car but remembered the CodeAlarm trick from my last car wherein a button under the dash needed held in while I turned on the car. Anyhoo, the alarm no longer chirps but looking at the red lead under the hood, its not broken at any point but does have the sheathing pulled back. Would this be enough to screw up the alarm horn ?? I'm no electrician so I'm clueless as to how to repair it.

 

[rudeguy]

Originally posted by: WT
I have a factory CodeAlarm unit in my '97 Passat. I returned from a cruise and found my keys were lost in the luggage. So I used a spare set with no key fob. So how did I get into the car ? Just opened it up and the alarm started blaring. Not knowing how to disable it, I started yanking on the red (power) wire from the alarm horn to the firewall. I didn't get it loose but I did stop the alarm. I then couldn't start the car but remembered the CodeAlarm trick from my last car wherein a button under the dash needed held in while I turned on the car. Anyhoo, the alarm no longer chirps but looking at the red lead under the hood, its not broken at any point but does have the sheathing pulled back. Would this be enough to screw up the alarm horn ?? I'm no electrician so I'm clueless as to how to repair it.

Its been so long since I sold Code....

I dont know why there would be a wire running into your engine compartment if there is no siren. AFAIK the red wire is the main power wire for the whole alarm, but I could be wrong. I can pull a wiring diagram tomorrow if you like.

 

[Svnla]

I have a 2000 Honda CRV. I need a security system with killer switch/starter kill <for discount from insurance company>. I also like to have remote notify if someone is trying to get in. I heard good thing about Viper from DEI. Which Viper do you recommend or Python, others from DEI are as good? Where do I get it to install, local shop or CC/BB? Thanks in advance.

 

[rudeguy]

Originally posted by: Svnla
I have a 2000 Honda CRV. I need a security system with killer switch/starter kill <for discount from insurance company>. I also like to have remote notify if someone is trying to get in. I heard good thing about Viper from DEI. Which Viper do you recommend or Python, others from DEI are as good? Where do I get it to install, local shop or CC/BB? Thanks in advance.

definately go DEI. They have the 900 model. CC only carries Code Alarm (owned by Audiovox), and I dont know if BB carries that model. Python, Viper and Valet are pretty much the same stuff, just with different remotes.

 

[WT]

I DO have a siren, I hadn't clarified that point, but its silent at this point. I don't get that 'chirp chirp' once it arms, so thats all I'm missing, other than if someone breaks in, it just flashed lights and no siren. LoL .... like I had guessed, the red wire is the power but why my alarm is still semi-functional (just slient) is beyond me. The local auto shop guesstimated $200 to trace the leads, but I could buy a new unit for that price.

Funny thing is, I have all my stereo gear in the basement after I sold my last car and didn't migrate it into the new one. With 2 amps, X-over, cap, 2 10 disk changers and a pair of 10s in a big box, I didn't want to cut the car up to fit it all in. Try making that look factory !! I'm soooo tempted to sell it all and just do an indash mp3 player and be dobe with it.

 

[homestarmy]

Originally posted by: GoodDad

Originally posted by: cjgallen

Originally posted by: GoodDad

Originally posted by: cjgallen
Recommend me a good 10" or 12" woofer and 4-channel amp that aren't too expensive (best bang for buck).

First off, please tell me you arent planning on running subs off a 4 channel.

Haha no, I just need one sub, so I'll probably bridge two channels and run my mains on the other two.

a good sub needs at least 200 watts of constant power. Regular speakers usually start out at about 30. You need 2 amps my friend.

I disagree. For us who don't like their trunk rattling, you can do fine on a 4 channel. I have an MTX (can't remember the model off the top of my head) with a JL12W6 (now known as AE) and they run perfectly fine and sound great (yes, I know the diffference between good and crappy car audio). It doesn't cause my rearview mirror to be inoperable, and that is exactly what I did not want to begin with. I have had much more power to the sub, and this is what I (and may others... GASP!) prefer.

 

[Muadib]

What's the easiset way to replace the sub in a 2004 Acura TL?

 

[Brutuskend]

Yeah, I do.

How to I set the damn clock on my Jensen head unit? (CD 440) as I recall...

 

[Brutuskend]

WAITING.....

 

[Kaido]

What's a good place to sell car speakers? I have four 6.5" CDT coaxials that don't fit my new car, barely used, with speaker wire.