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AMD Ryzen 3000 Builders Thread

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I dont personally own an Asus board right now and am using a Gigabyte Aorus X470 Gaming 7 and x570 Aorus Master, but I know I am unable to overclock memory speeds if I have XMP or AMP enabled.
I have to set it to Auto and then go and manually type in all the settings.
Maybe give that a try and let us know if it helps??
 
Fanatical Meat said:
Ballistic Sport LT
This exact kit
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Have the same kit but had issues with OC. Even the safe profile of ryzen dram calculator wouldn't work for me. Anything better than XMP didn't work.

Fanatical Meat said:
I like how it’s basic memory, no led, not super tall and it doesn’t look like a transformer.
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So true. They fit nicely below my nh-d14. Plus dual-rank 3200mhz for relatively cheap at least compared to b-die.
 
Well I just went ahead and purchased the Noctua NH-D15 Chromax Black Edition.
I really hope I made the right choice for cooling my up coming 3950x.
I am even willing to under clock and under volt if need be.
Not sure if its possible but was thinking something like 3.2Ghz base clock down from the 3.5Ghz and 4.2 Boost down from 4.7GHz if that would help lower the temps?
Is it even possible to adjust base and boost like this??
I just need absolute stability , lower temps and low volts so it can be left on 24/7.
 
beginner99 said:
Have the same kit but had issues with OC. Even the safe profile of ryzen dram calculator wouldn't work for me. Anything better than XMP didn't work.


So true. They fit nicely below my nh-d14. Plus dual-rank 3200mhz for relatively cheap at least compared to b-die.
Click to expand...

I haven’t tried to over clock them but I’ll update you if I do.
I want to try but I have no experience and I’m having trouble to motivate myself to try and gain like a 1 or 2% performance bump.
 
Justinbaileyman said:
Well I just went ahead and purchased the Noctua NH-D15 Chromax Black Edition.
I really hope I made the right choice for cooling my up coming 3950x.
Click to expand...
The default package power target of 3950X is 142 W. The Noctua NH-D15 can dissipate this easily without much noise. You can also set a lower power target if you want (giving an even higher bandwidth-per-Watt ratio than default, at the cost of moderately less computing bandwidth).

Edit, as a tower cooler, it doesn't provide air flow over mainboard components such as VRM coolers by itself. So make sure that case fans provide some air flow for the mainboard.
 
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StefanR5R said:
The default package power target of 3950X is 142 W. The Noctua NH-D15 can dissipate this easily without much noise. You can also set a lower power target if you want (giving an even higher bandwidth-per-Watt ratio than default, at the cost of moderately less computing bandwidth).

Edit, as a tower cooler, it doesn't provide air flow over mainboard components such as VRM coolers by itself. So make sure that case fans provide some air flow for the mainboard.
Click to expand...
OK thanks for the heads up. I will have plenty of case air flow so cooling the vrms should not be an issue.
2x 200mm fans in the front , 2x 140mm fans at the top and a 120mm fan in the rear of the case.
Not to mention the 2x 140mm fans for the heatssink it self.
 
JimKiler said:
quick question, if I am not overclocking my CPU, just the RAM via the XMP profiles, why is my BIOS saying my CPU voltage is 1.48 and then when i get into windows the asus AI suite fluctuates but goes between 1.33 and 1.45? Isn't that too high for someone not overclocking? In Asus AI suite i changed the VDDCR CPU Powe Phase control from optimiized to manual and dragged the slider all the way to the base which is called regular then i did the same for VDDCR Power Phase control.
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DrMrLordX said:
@JimKiler

Might be Asus up to their old tricks again (overvolting), but voltages in that range are "normal" for ST workloads (background threads) when using Matisse. Still, voltage fluctuations that high should not be constant. I would recommend CPU-z for monitoring actual voltage in any case. Then try running some workloads that are ST and MT (try CBR20) and monitor the voltage readouts from CPU-z during the workload. Voltage readings while idle are mostly meaningless.

Also, power phase control isn't going to up your voltage. That just increases the switching frequency of the VRMs which helps with a lot of things (and makes your VRMs run hotter).
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My ROG STRIX 470-F Gaming is the same with the voltages on my 2700X. The Ryzen Master utility shows how much voltage shoots up all the time. The base and boost voltages change a lot more often than my last CPU did (6700K).

I was kind of shocked at first, but after reading up on it, it seems like it's a normal thing for many Asus boards. I ended up dialing back some default CPU settings in my UEFI, and it reduced the power consumption by 10w - 15w. I tried things like applying a smaller negative voltage offset, but it really didn't make much of difference.

Maybe tomorrow when I can get to my desktop to look, I will let you know what settings I changed so you can try them if you want to see if they help you out.
 
Justinbaileyman said:
I am even willing to under clock and under volt if need be.
Click to expand...

Underclocking should be unnecessary. Just stick to default CPU clocks, turn off LLC (or set it as low as possible on your board), and experiment with some negative voltage offsets. ST performance might fall off a bit, but temps will decrease and you may see an increase in MT performance.
 
DrMrLordX said:
@JimKiler

Might be Asus up to their old tricks again (overvolting), but voltages in that range are "normal" for ST workloads (background threads) when using Matisse. Still, voltage fluctuations that high should not be constant. I would recommend CPU-z for monitoring actual voltage in any case. Then try running some workloads that are ST and MT (try CBR20) and monitor the voltage readouts from CPU-z during the workload. Voltage readings while idle are mostly meaningless.

Also, power phase control isn't going to up your voltage. That just increases the switching frequency of the VRMs which helps with a lot of things (and makes your VRMs run hotter).
Click to expand...

I see fluctuations in CPU-Z as well on idle. I am download Cinebench R20 right now.

Edit: i ran cinebench R20 and in MP mode i was getting 1.30 Volts but now in single core i am getting 1.40 volts, weird but i am not too worried.

UsandThem said:
My ROG STRIX 470-F Gaming is the same with the voltages on my 2700X. The Ryzen Master utility shows how much voltage shoots up all the time. The base and boost voltages change a lot more often than my last CPU did (6700K).

I was kind of shocked at first, but after reading up on it, it seems like it's a normal thing for many Asus boards. I ended up dialing back some default CPU settings in my UEFI, and it reduced the power consumption by 10w - 15w. I tried things like applying a smaller negative voltage offset, but it really didn't make much of difference.

Maybe tomorrow when I can get to my desktop to look, I will let you know what settings I changed so you can try them if you want to see if they help you out.
Click to expand...

That is okay, i will leave it at defaults.
 
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JimKiler said:
Edit: i ran cinebench R20 and in MP mode i was getting 1.30 Volts but now in single core i am getting 1.40 volts, weird but i am not too worried.
Click to expand...

So long as the temps are okay, you're fine. Though I think you can get some MT performance out of your chip if you look into lowering your LLC settings and apply a negative voltage offset. My 3900x with LLC Off and -.1v will pull maybe 1.272v - 1.284v during the MT run, and sustain a clockspeed of around 4175 MHz. If I let voltage get higher via higher LLC settings and/or by removing the offset, it actually lowers clocks and lowers MT scores.
 
It have been a long time since I last did a build, wondering if u guys can help me out. I don't game but I did some photo editing every now and then, I also run 3 screen 1 UHD and 2 HD.

Any Ryzen/Althon G series get can drive 3 screen? If so which CPU/MB/CASE combo is my best bet? Prefer small cube case, I don't need optical drive or spin HD, as long as it will host 2-3 SSD I am fine.
 
Denly said:
It have been a long time since I last did a build, wondering if u guys can help me out. I don't game but I did some photo editing every now and then, I also run 3 screen 1 UHD and 2 HD.

Any Ryzen/Althon G series get can drive 3 screen? If so which CPU/MB/CASE combo is my best bet? Prefer small cube case, I don't need optical drive or spin HD, as long as it will host 2-3 SSD I am fine.
Click to expand...
A budget would be really helpful here. Give people an idea of what you have to work with.
 
I tried out the AGESA 1.0.0.4 bios from MSI. Was only beta. The worst bios since a Foxconn build back in the Atlon 64 days a decade and a half ago. My ram on the current bios runs 15-18-18-18 with 1T. The new bios couldn't even boot at 3000mhz 16-18-18
A bios can turn a good motherboard into the terrible motherboard. What is worse, MSI pulled the good bios from their website. I had to go back into my archives to reload it.

Caused my computer to hang. I have never bricked a motherboard doing a bios upgrade. I was thinking there is always a first for everything. But it was not to be. Only losers fail. Had to throw that in. Seriously, it took me close to 2 hours to get it sorted.
 
Hans Gruber said:
I tried out the AGESA 1.0.0.4 bios from MSI. Was only beta.
Click to expand...

MSI beta bios are hit and miss for me so far. I'm running b-die and I've experienced what you described with a beta or two. I'm currently running the vA5 Agesa 1.0.0.4 Patch B official one without any issues on my Gaming Plus MB.

MSI beta versions usually go official pretty quickly unless they're riddled with bugs.

Your using the MB that's currently listed in your sig? If so I'd imagine they more or less concentrate on the newer offerings 1st.
 
Kenmitch said:
MSI beta bios are hit and miss for me so far. I'm running b-die and I've experienced what you described with a beta or two. I'm currently running the vA5 Agesa 1.0.0.4 Patch B official one without any issues on my Gaming Plus MB.

MSI beta versions usually go official pretty quickly unless they're riddled with bugs.

Your using the MB that's currently listed in your sig? If so I'd imagine they more or less concentrate on the newer offerings 1st.
Click to expand...
Yes, I am using the MSI B350 Gaming Pro Carbon. It's an old relic of a board. It doesn't do the rainbow colors like the B450 carbon but only one color at a time. Right now it's red but it was green. MSI bios for the B350 have been great since about the 3rd or 4th bios update.

I see no need to update my bios if AGESA 1.0.0.4 provides no real benefits. But this beta bios is just awful. I also have a B-Die 8GB kit. It wouldn't even boot the B-die beyond 2100mhz. The max on my 16GB kit was 2400mhz.

My GTX 970 is an even older relic that needs to be retired but that is for another thread.

This build will probably last me until Zen4 and I will build an all new system. The 3600 is really a great chip. The performance this B350 carbon puts out is beyond my expectations.
 
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