AMD RYZEN 2000 Builders Thread

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rbk123

Senior member
Aug 22, 2006
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Just RMA it and get another. If the new one does the same, then you can continue troubleshooting from where you left off.
 

Space Tyrant

Member
Feb 14, 2017
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Here are some power consumption results recorded while mining cryptocurrency with 16-threads on a Keccak-based algorithm.

My 2700x system consumed:
45 watts at the wall when idle,
70 watts when sitting in the BIOS,
128 watts mining at 3.75 GHz / 1.00 vcore, and
162 watts mining at 4.00 GHz / 1.15 vcore.
210 watts mining at 4.20 GHz / 1.30 vcore, peak was 215 watts.

This box has (2) 120mm case fans, (2) 140mm case fans, a 135mm and a 120mm CPU fan, as well as an idle GXT 750ti all adding a bit to the power draw.
 

Markfw

Moderator Emeritus, Elite Member
May 16, 2002
25,542
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Here are some power consumption results recorded while mining cryptocurrency with 16-threads on a Keccak-based algorithm.

My 2700x system consumed:
45 watts at the wall when idle,
70 watts when sitting in the BIOS,
128 watts mining at 3.75 GHz / 1.00 vcore, and
162 watts mining at 4.00 GHz / 1.15 vcore.
210 watts mining at 4.20 GHz / 1.30 vcore, peak was 215 watts.

This box has (2) 120mm case fans, (2) 140mm case fans, a 135mm and a 120mm CPU fan, as well as an idle GXT 750ti all adding a bit to the power draw.
What HSF do you have, and what are the temps at 1.3 vcore/4.2 ghz ??
 
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Space Tyrant

Member
Feb 14, 2017
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What HSF do you have, and what are the temps at 1.3 vcore/4.2 ghz ??
I've got a Be Quiet Dark Rock 4 (non-pro) with a 135mm push and a 120mm pull. The HSF is positioned between a 140mm pulling air into the case and a 120mm on the other side blowing air out, so the heat sink sits in the middle of a virtual wind tunnel of 4 fans in a nice straight line.

I recently broke the ability to read my CPU temp sensor from the OS in a reinstall so the temps listed are all CPUTIN. The 4.2 GHz / 1.3 vcore / 210 watt run hit 54c CPUTIN. That probably equates to a CPU temp of about 63c based on my earlier observations before I broke something. However, since I was just testing power consumption I only ran it for 5 minutes. I'm sure it would have climbed a few more degrees, given time. At 4GHz it takes about 10 minutes to stabilize at 48c when starting this load, so it would have needed longer than that at 4.2GHz. The 4GHz temp is solid for 24/7 running though.

Ambient is 26c.

Edit: the 41c temp was wrong and was changed to 48c. That erroneous temp came from the 3.75 GHz test, not the 4.0GHz test. The 4.0GHz test runs at 48c.
 
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Markfw

Moderator Emeritus, Elite Member
May 16, 2002
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I've got a Be Quiet Dark Rock 4 (non-pro) with a 135mm push and a 120mm pull. The HSF is positioned between a 140mm pulling air into the case and a 120mm on the other side blowing air out, so the heat sink sits in the middle of a virtual wind tunnel of 4 fans in a nice straight line.

I recently broke the ability to read my CPU temp sensor from the OS in a reinstall so the temps listed are all CPUTIN. The 4.2 GHz / 1.3 vcore / 210 watt run hit 54c CPUTIN. That probably equates to a CPU temp of about 63c based on my earlier observations before I broke something. However, since I was just testing power consumption I only ran it for 5 minutes. I'm sure it would have climbed a few more degrees, given time. At 4GHz it takes about 10 minutes to stabilize at 41c when starting this load, so it would have needed longer than that at 4.2GHz. The 4GHz temp is solid for 24/7 running though.

Ambient is 26c.
WOW, thanks. I know my 2700x had a problem at stock. 95c@3.9 and 1.35 vcore on a NH-D15 with 2 140 mm fans, and an open case, and ambient was 75f or lower.

Edit: its on its way back for RMA
 

Space Tyrant

Member
Feb 14, 2017
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WOW, thanks. I know my 2700x had a problem at stock. 95c@3.9 and 1.35 vcore on a NH-D15 with 2 140 mm fans, and an open case, and ambient was 75f or lower.

Edit: its on its way back for RMA
There was an error in the temps in my previous comment. The 41c CPUTIN temp actually came from the 3.75 GHz test. The 4.0 GHz test runs at 48c CPUTIN. Sorry about that. :p
 
Nov 26, 2005
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tl:dr

was just wondering if I could get a few personal experience replies on how the 2700X fares against it's previous gen Ryzen 1800, and the 8700K. I've seen some Cinebench single, and multi core scores. My i7 970 can pull 129 in Cinebench 15 single core ..

Thanks for your time :)
 

guskline

Diamond Member
Apr 17, 2006
5,338
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Stock 2700x w /3200 ram
176 s/ 1792 multi
My previous 1800x OC'd to 4Ghz on all cores scored 1778 on the multi.

I have decided to keep the 2700x at stock for now until the BIOS revisions mature. It's really fast already at stock and handles memory much better.
 
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IEC

Elite Member
Super Moderator
Jun 10, 2004
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tl:dr

was just wondering if I could get a few personal experience replies on how the 2700X fares against it's previous gen Ryzen 1800, and the 8700K. I've seen some Cinebench single, and multi core scores. My i7 970 can pull 129 in Cinebench 15 single core ..

Thanks for your time :)

My i7-8700K did 196/1424 at stock with 3600 CL15 memory.
At 4.7GHz OC all-core + 4.7GHz uncore + max power limits, no AVX offset it does 205/1557.

I haven't benched the 2700X yet (moving in <1 month) but I can comfortably predict it loses by about 10% in ST but will win by at least that much in MT performance. ;)
 
May 11, 2008
19,471
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Well, my new pc is up and running. I had to take some hurdles and i have now learned to never use diskpart with my backup hdd connected.
Assuming disk 0 is the ssd, is not a good idea.
Especially when both disks have approximately the same storage space.
Without the fantastic program testdisk, i would have lost all my data.
https://www.cgsecurity.org/wiki/TestDisk

I will later on add more text about the hurdles i had to take.


ryzen_2600.jpg~original



I forgot to add that the be quiet cooler : shadow rock TF2 is very easy to install, i just followed the manual and it was done in a jippy. It is rated for 160W TDP. So it should keep my system cool. I like a little over provision when it comes to cooling electronics.

edit:

A good thing to beware of when adding an aftermarket heatsink to a m2 ssd is to make sure that the bottom plate is not too long. I noticed that the aluminum bottomplate touched the extended legs of the electrical pins than run down the side of the m2 connector to the solderpads on the motherboard. No way i was going to power it up like that. Thus i took my saw and removed about 4mm of the back plate.
The M2 ssd heatsink in question is the EKWB EKM2, M2 SSD heatsink.

https://www.anandtech.com/show/11606/ekwb-launches-aftermarket-ekm2-aluminum-heatsink-for-m2-ssds

It works very well. My m2 SSD is now 36C (environment being 25C).

I learned that not all usb ports are recognized as ports that usb sticks can boot from, usb2.0 or usb 3.1 does not make a difference.
After that i experienced that when updating the bios with an A8-9600 , the m2 ssd does not show up as a device. But as it turns out, when installing a ryzen mcu, the m2 ssd will show up in the bios.

After that, i noticed i had two windows 10 setup options on the usb stick.
The normal setup halted because of an error 0x80300024 when trying to select the m2 ssd as drive.
The efi setup would not continue because the m2 ssd was an mbr and not an gpt.

A great solution video:

The thing is, that the drive has to get a gpt table and not a mbr.
The program diskpart does that as shown in the video.
Press shift + F10 during setup to get a command prompt. Commands:
Diskpart.
List disk.
Select disk x.
Clean.
Convert GPT.



I followed the advice but a bit too enthusiastic at first because the diskpart program does not clearly state what drive i was about to clean bit just mentions disk 0 and disk 1. And thus i erased the partition table from my backup hdd which turned out to be disk 0. I remember reading on the internet for the other 0x80300024 problem that is always good to temporarly disconnect all drives not needed.
But as mention above, i used the great and free program Testdisk. I let it analyze the drive, after that it wrote the partition when pressing P and copied files and i do not know why but the partition information was restored.

But after that, a lightning fast install of under 10 minutes and only once a irq less or not equal erorr that i have not seen anymore, but i immediately after that installed the latest video card drivers and have not had any issues so far. I still have to check the event log.



I also think that it is now official. Windows 10 no longer supports the stereomix option that allows a user to record what they hear. At least with this fresh install it also does not work and i found on the microsoft support site a microsoft tech mentioning that stereomix is no longer supported in windows 10. I installed the latest realtek driver but to no prevail so far.

Well, i discovered something about stereomix. In the privacy settings there is an option to turn on or off the microphone. And believe it or not, the stereomix option stops working when the microphone switch is set to off. And it will not work again after the microphone is set to on. I have to toggle the stereomix between disable and enable to get it to function. When the microphone is on, all recording or playback device errors that for example audacity might generate are gone.
So windows 10 has full support for stereomix , you just need to know how. And the ms technician that said that windows 10 does not support stereomix is wrong.

another edit.

The usb ports not working with my usb3.1 stick is not related to the motherboard.
It seems that my usb3.1 stick is a bit picky when it comes to usb ports 3 and 4 under the enternet entry. I tested it with another usb3.0 stick and that stick works fine. Read speed of 126MB/sec when copying a file from stick to hdd.



 
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May 11, 2008
19,471
1,160
126
^^^ That case looks straight out of 1999.

I know. :D
2002 or 2003.

pc_case_2.jpg~original


It is a perfect case for my use. It is very stiff, heavy and solid. I made some aftermarket improvements to make it even more silent.


another edit:

I forgot to add that the be quiet cooler : shadow rock TF2 is very easy to install, i just followed the manual and it was done in a jippy. It is rated for 160W TDP. So it should keep my system cool. I like a little over provision when it comes to cooling electronics.
 
Last edited:
May 11, 2008
19,471
1,160
126
Power consumption at the wall is 49 watts idle. and hovers between 55 and 70 watts when doing all kinds of stuff.
When running world of tanks, power draw is 242Watts max. About the same as my old 4c/4t piledriver based system.
New, motherboard, new 6C/12t cpu,new ram and new m2 nvme ssd.
 

Insert_Nickname

Diamond Member
May 6, 2012
4,971
1,691
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The thing is, that the drive has to get a gpt table and not a mbr.
The program diskpart does that as shown in the video.
Press shift + F10 during setup to get a command prompt. Commands:
Diskpart.
List disk.
Select disk x.
Clean.
Convert GPT.



I followed the advice but a bit too enthusiastic at first because the diskpart program does not clearly state what drive i was about to clean bit just mentions disk 0 and disk 1. And thus i erased the partition table from my backup hdd which turned out to be disk 0. I remember reading on the internet for the other 0x80300024 problem that is always good to temporarly disconnect all drives not needed.
But as mention above, i used the great and free program Testdisk. I let it analyze the drive, after that it wrote the partition when pressing P and copied files and i do not know why but the partition information was restored.

A little tip: If you enter list disk again after select disk x, the selected disk will be marked with a star. It's a good way of making sure which disk you're about to clean. Leaned to do it that way from bitter experience.

When installing Windows, its always best, when possible, to disconnect any drives other then the system one. Windows is, and has always been, slightly... ahh... wobbly... about where the boot files end up with multiple drives.
 
May 11, 2008
19,471
1,160
126
A little tip: If you enter list disk again after select disk x, the selected disk will be marked with a star. It's a good way of making sure which disk you're about to clean. Leaned to do it that way from bitter experience.

When installing Windows, its always best, when possible, to disconnect any drives other then the system one. Windows is, and has always been, slightly... ahh... wobbly... about where the boot files end up with multiple drives.

I agree. I also learned it the hard way. But thanks for the free program Testdisk (which supports many different kind of filesystems and partitioning) , i was able to restore the partition information. I am not sure how it works, but perhaps it even restored the file allocation table. Because i am not sure what i did, it analyzed the disk and i pressed P and it wrote something to disk and voila, my data was readable in windows again. If Testdisk cannot restore the partition information, it can still read the files and copy them to a user selectable destination.
 

Markfw

Moderator Emeritus, Elite Member
May 16, 2002
25,542
14,496
136
OK, I just learned something. My old 2700x was probably not the problem, and was probably fine. The new chip did the same thing. Even on a 240 rad watercooling it was 1.35 vcore and 3.9 ghz@75c. So just for fun, I set the bios to1.2 vcore and 4 ghz. 65c and working@100% for an hour. It just never occurred to me that the Taichi motherboard would overvolt ! I will keep playing now that I know the bios is flawed.
 

WelshBloke

Lifer
Jan 12, 2005
30,427
8,093
136
I just looked up the SPD settings for 3200mhz and set those in the bios. What are The Stilts numbers?
I'm such an idiot! I just realised that my motherboard supports the XMP timings. So now I've just set it to the XMP 1 timings, took two clicks!
I'm my defense it would be nice if the BIOS settings on motherboards weren't quite so convoluted!
 

Shamrock

Golden Member
Oct 11, 1999
1,438
558
136
If this is any help, I also have the 2700x with Taichi mobo...

With Ryzen Master app, I have 3975mhz (all cores), It is showing 1.3375v and 47.5c under the "current" tab. However I am only web browsing, but if I goto "Game mode" tab, it reverts to 3700mhz, and has a vcore of 1.21v. Just a note that I have "auto" overclock on.

I opened a game, and it shot up to 53.75c @ 4150mhz.


OK, I just learned something. My old 2700x was probably not the problem, and was probably fine. The new chip did the same thing. Even on a 240 rad watercooling it was 1.35 vcore and 3.9 ghz@75c. So just for fun, I set the bios to1.2 vcore and 4 ghz. 65c and working@100% for an hour. It just never occurred to me that the Taichi motherboard would overvolt ! I will keep playing now that I know the bios is flawed.
 

Markfw

Moderator Emeritus, Elite Member
May 16, 2002
25,542
14,496
136
If this is any help, I also have the 2700x with Taichi mobo...

With Ryzen Master app, I have 3975mhz (all cores), It is showing 1.3375v and 47.5c under the "current" tab. However I am only web browsing, but if I goto "Game mode" tab, it reverts to 3700mhz, and has a vcore of 1.21v. Just a note that I have "auto" overclock on.

I opened a game, and it shot up to 53.75c @ 4150mhz.
But run something like prime95 and watch it hit 95c and throttle. Unless you have watercooling. Even my NH-D15 it hit 89c at those settings. But now it does 4100 all-core @1.21 vcore and 65c (with AIO cooling)
 
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