A Different take on PC Speakers: Self-Powered Monitors + Custom Sub

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Ken90630

Golden Member
Mar 6, 2004
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Originally posted by: Rubycon
Originally posted by: Ken90630

No offense, but could you site a credible source for your assertion that "the lower figure is generally an F3," 'cuz this is the first I've heard of that.


A nice sub bass system will do that.

Severe damage. Roofs and some walls torn off well-constructed houses; trains overturned; most trees in forest uprooted; heavy cars lifted off the ground and thrown.

Imagine an F5. ;)

:confused: You lost me there. I was thinking F3 is the point at which the FR is down by -3dB. Are you agreeing with me or skewering me? :D

Or is that an oblique hurricance joke? :laugh:
 

Rubycon

Madame President
Aug 10, 2005
17,768
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Originally posted by: Ken90630

:confused: You lost me there. I was thinking F3 is the point at which the FR is down by -3dB. Are you agreeing with me or skewering me? :D

Or is that an oblique hurricance joke? :laugh:

Yes it was a joke (see Fujita scale). ;)

Sounds like he was referring to the half loudness point.
 

Ken90630

Golden Member
Mar 6, 2004
1,571
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Originally posted by: MichaelD
@KEN90630

No prob, no offense taken at all. I agree; the MTXs are borderline at best. BUT, compared to the 12-year old Labtec 2.1 setup I have now (4" sub, 3" sats that sound like tin cans) I think it'll be a world of difference. As you can see by my HT setup listed above, I know good sound. :)

I would've went with better speakers, but my desk is really small and wall mounting isn't really an option b/c the wall behind my desk isn't a "wall" it's a piece of 5/8" fiberboard that is the rear panel of the closet in the other room. :confused:. The previous owner of the apt took one big bedroom and made two small bedrooms out of it. The "wall" between them is part sheetrock, part fiberboard. The closets (one facing into each room) are what separates the two rooms.

The MTXs will be a huge step up...and I know I'll probably get real tired of them in short order and probably buy the BR1 kit. :D We'll see what happens.

I read as many reviews of the Behringer A500 as I could find and it looks like a real steal at the price. It's biggest flaw is that it can't run a 4-ohm MONO bridged load. I'm sure it would have no prob with 6 ohms though. Anyway, for stereo or bridged to 8 ohms it looks like a steal. I'll report back when it all comes in. :)

I hear 'ya. You do what you can do with the room/space parameters you have to work with. One of the reasons I don't have a nicer audio system is that I have small rooms. And yeah, compared to the old Labtechs you described, the MTXs will prolly sound like angels. :laugh: For $60, you did well, I think.

I'll be interested to read your impressions once you've had a chance to hook it all up & give it a listen.
 

MichaelD

Lifer
Jan 16, 2001
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Hopefully in a week or so, I can post my first impressions. My computer room is small (11'x11'x8') so getting "enough sound" won't be a problem.

I had Klipsch 4.1s awhile back and liked them a lot. For sheer volume, they are hard to beat, but again, you've got that dreaded "120Hz and below under your desk" syndrome.
 

Ken90630

Golden Member
Mar 6, 2004
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Originally posted by: MichaelD
Hopefully in a week or so, I can post my first impressions. My computer room is small (11'x11'x8') so getting "enough sound" won't be a problem.

I had Klipsch 4.1s awhile back and liked them a lot. For sheer volume, they are hard to beat, but again, you've got that dreaded "120Hz and below under your desk" syndrome.
Yeah, I know what you mean. I have ProMedia 2.1s, and if I put the sub on the floor, there is some noticeable directionality. It's not terrible, and I honestly don't know how much I'd be aware of it if I didn't know about directionality and wasn't listening for it. In any case, I built a little shelf and mounted it to the wall, just under the desktop surface and straight out in front of me, and set the sub on it. That made a huge difference. I've also had the sub on the desktop itself a time or two (during office reorganization endeavours), and that works the best. Only prob is that it does take up a chunk of desk space and also makes the desktop rattle (although a foam pad under it can mitigate that).

I can't say I've noticed any particularly obvious frequency reproduction probs related to the sub handling frequencies out to 120Hz though. Other than the directionality issue, I think a well-made sub can handle that. Ideally a sub should crossover at 80Hz or below in most applications, I suppose, but that's not really practical with small speaker systems 'cuz the sats aren't typically going to go low enough. Would you concur?
 

MichaelD

Lifer
Jan 16, 2001
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Yes, in the case of PC speakers (pre-manufactured like the Klipsch or Logitech's, etc) I agree; the manufacturer crossing them over below 80Hz just isn't physically possible due to their small size.

The reason "good" PC speaker sets continue to be manufactured in this fashion is twofold, IMO.

1. Most people are used to only two speakers for audio from a PC; two REALLY crappy AM radio type speakers. ANY 2.1 set will sound 100x better than that.

2. Most people want tiny little speakers on their desk and arent' willing to sacrifice any desktop space for better sound b/c "sound doesn't matter' to 99% of PC users out there


Then you've got us; the people posting in this thread. The freaks that hook their HTPC to a 110w x 7 HT receiver. :D We want better and are willing to spend money and sacrifice desktop space in order to get what we want.
 

ribbon13

Diamond Member
Feb 1, 2005
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I choose where I live based on available internet and comfortably setting up 7.2 on my PC. And at least one 24-hr grocery

No joke.

Ken, I say that on virtue that MTX calls the 5i's
'mini-monitors'. Also from personal experience building many many speakers over the years. I can get an F3 well below 60hz with a ported 5.5" system using even the cheapest drivers. That, and that entire range, even the 600i (priced at $200 msrp individually) don't use the 'variation' spec. Because anechoic variation is meaningless without other data. Both top and bottom range are the -3db frequencies.

Good manufacturers dont go 43-19.5kHz±3db alone, get give you pretty MLS graphs! :p
http://speakerbuilder.net/web_files/Projects/Eros%20Project/erosmk2.htm
 

bob4432

Lifer
Sep 6, 2003
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op - why not pic up a receiver @ ecost - they have excellent deals on b-stock onkyo and denon items and i am sure you could easily get more than you need for the $$$. then pick up a pair of bookshelf and a sub and you should be good to go. some of the prices i have seen at ecost are very good and at that time it wouldn't matter if you were buying a whole reciever if it ran the $$ of "just what you need"
 

mercanucaribe

Banned
Oct 20, 2004
9,763
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I have Swan M200s.. Can I add a powered sub to the subwoofer output on my soundcard, and have the soundcard set the crossove frequency?
 

YOyoYOhowsDAjello

Moderator<br>A/V & Home Theater<br>Elite member
Aug 6, 2001
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Originally posted by: mercanucaribe
I have Swan M200s.. Can I add a powered sub to the subwoofer output on my soundcard, and have the soundcard set the crossove frequency?

It depends on your soundcard if it will be able to give you crossover control.
 

bobsmith1492

Diamond Member
Feb 21, 2004
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Hm, my plan is to build a box for a pair of 12" Rockford P2s (last pair built in America) my friend from Rockford gave me. Then I'll build a class D amp with an, oh, let's say 4th order Butterworth LPF and a big ganged pot to set the crossover frequency. Run the amp at about +/- 50V and bridge it into the two subs, connected in series. Hook that up to the sub output and it should be good to go... but that's just me. :)
 

ribbon13

Diamond Member
Feb 1, 2005
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Originally posted by: YOyoYOhowsDAjello
Originally posted by: mercanucaribe
I have Swan M200s.. Can I add a powered sub to the subwoofer output on my soundcard, and have the soundcard set the crossove frequency?

It depends on your soundcard drivers if it will be able to give you crossover control.

Fixed mate. Most every sound card chipset released in the passed 5 years can do this. :p

 

YOyoYOhowsDAjello

Moderator<br>A/V & Home Theater<br>Elite member
Aug 6, 2001
31,205
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Originally posted by: ribbon13
Originally posted by: YOyoYOhowsDAjello
Originally posted by: mercanucaribe
I have Swan M200s.. Can I add a powered sub to the subwoofer output on my soundcard, and have the soundcard set the crossove frequency?

It depends on your soundcard drivers if it will be able to give you crossover control.

Fixed mate. Most every sound card chipset released in the passed 5 years can do this. :p

:D ok
 

Ken90630

Golden Member
Mar 6, 2004
1,571
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Originally posted by: ribbon13
Ken, I say that on virtue that MTX calls the 5i's 'mini-monitors'. Also from personal experience building many many speakers over the years. I can get an F3 well below 60hz with a ported 5.5" system using even the cheapest drivers. That, and that entire range, even the 600i (priced at $200 msrp individually) don't use the 'variation' spec. Because anechoic variation is meaningless without other data. Both top and bottom range are the -3db frequencies.

Good manufacturers dont go 43-19.5kHz±3db alone, get give you pretty MLS graphs! :p
http://speakerbuilder.net/web_files/Projects/Eros%20Project/erosmk2.htm

Sorry, man, and no offense, but you're mistaken on the meanings of the bottom & top numbers. :p The top and bottom range numbers in quoted FR specs do not represent an F3 mark or anything of the sort. In fact, the absence of a +/- qualifier is a solid bet that the component is not anywhere near flat nor only down by -3dB at those numbers.

Where to begin ... For starters, I never said the MTX 5i's would definitely not reach to 50Hz (or the mfgr's quoted 48Hz) -- I just indicated that the FR spec they provide on their Web site is worthless without a +/- qualifier, and that we don't know at what dB level 50Hz frequencies are reproduced. Without a +/- qualifier, one cannot assume that this speaker's FR is anywhere near flat out to the lower or high number in the quoted range -- and in fact, we can prolly assume it's not because if it were, the mfgr would almost certainly provide the qualifier to validate the speaker's performance and their quoted spec. Nor do we have any idea at what dB level those outer frequencies are reproduced at -- like Operandi stated, "My clock radio might go down to 20Hz, but at -100dB." (I'm paraphrasing there.) And as I stated before, audio engineers and professional equipment reviewers have -- for decades -- blasted mfgrs for hiding their equipment's true FR performance by intentionally omitting the +/- qualifier. They don't omit the qualifier out of some unspoken 'understanding' that it's an "F3" point, because there has never been any such understanding. They do it out of deception. Credible reviewers' tests after tests after tests after tests over the years have proven this to be the case, so much so that it's common knowlege among audiophiles.

To support my position here, I offer the following links and accompanying relevant excerpts:

This is a particularly excellent article on speaker testing that I bookmarked several years ago and still refer to every so often. For anyone wanting a good explanation of the various characteristics of speaker performance and how they are measured, this is a particularly good article (and it's not too long).

Here's a noteworthy excerpt:

"Frequency response specs describe how a loudspeaker will reproduce a flat electrical reference signal. The speaker receives this signal and reproduces it as well as its design permits. Since a speaker consists of many moving parts, there are several losses that can occur. So, the frequency response measurement produced by the loudspeaker is quite different from the original electrical input signal received by it. Frequency response ratings are typically described in terms of a ±3dB range or not at all. For example, a frequency response rating of 40 Hz to 20 kHz ±3dB indicates that the loudspeaker will be centered within a 6dB-tolerance window covering that range. If the frequency response is stated without the plus or minus tolerance, the relative smoothness is up for interpretation. Unless there is a stated test method used for deriving the low-frequency cut-off, values can be misleading.

[Bolding added by me.]

So my question is why would that writer say what he did in the last two sentences above if it were understood that the upper & lower numbers in a FR spec were representative of an F3 point? :confused:

Here's another article -- see the bottom of page 2 and top of page 3.

Notable excerpt:

"I don?t have a problem with over-specified frequency response, provided the equipment actually does have the response claimed. Where I do have a problem is where claims are made for wide frequency response that the equipment cannot possibly deliver. SACD is a perfect example where we had a raft of propaganda extolling the massive audio bandwidth, whereas the designers of the noise shaping filters had set the practical bandwidth to be essentially the same as that of a regular Compact Disc.

Of course frequency response is meaningless unless the spread of levels to be expected over the specified range is also given. Thus if the frequency range is quoted without a number of dBs level range, it is a cosmetic specification.

[Bolding again added by me.]

Want me to keep going? Okay :D :

What the numbers can and can't tell you

Notable excerpt:

"For instance, you might get a frequency-response specification such as "40 Hz-22 kHz," but unless the spec also tells you the variance within however many decibels (+/- 3 dB, for example), the numbers are essentially useless. The speaker may well reproduce 20 Hz, but that tone could be 20 dB "down" from (or below) "flat" response, meaning you won't really hear 20 Hz from that speaker. Additionally, how a speaker is measured can affect the response. Was it measured in a room or in a reflectionless anechoic chamber? Where was the microphone placed to measure the response? Essentially, a frequency-response measurement by itself, unaccompanied by a critical review, is pretty much useless!"

[Again, bolding added by me.]

And what the heck, how about one more.

Notable excerpt:

"Frequency response is the range of sound frequencies that the speaker can reproduce. The values provided for most speakers are meaningless, because they do not specify how flat that response is. For example, professional studio-monitor speakers may provide 20 Hz to 20 kHz response at ±1 dB. Expensive home audio speakers may provide 20 Hz to 20 kHz response at ±3 dB, and 40 Hz to 18 kHz response at ±1 dB. Computer speakers may claim 20 Hz to 20 kHz response, but may rate that response at ±10 dB or more, which makes the specification effectively meaningless. A reduction of about 3 dB halves volume, which means sounds below 100 Hz or above 10 kHz are nearly inaudible with many computer speakers."

[Again, bolding added by me.]

And why not one for the road? :D
(scroll down to "Speaker specifications information: How to read speaker specs")

Proverbial "notable excerpt":

"Frequency Response is the frequency range to which the speaker can respond. A full-range speaker is a speaker designed to reproduce all or most of the sound spectrum within human hearing (20Hz - 20KHz). Typical speakers are not able to play back this whole frequency range. Please note that with frequency response, many companies publish only "Half Specs." For example, 50 to 20 kHz is meaningless with knowing what the deviation is from the reference level at a specified frequency (typically 1 kHz). For example 50 to 20 kHz + or - 3dB is decent and + or - 20 dB is atrocious (quite a useless product). So both pieces of information are necessary to be useful, so be suspicious of new gear with low prices and great looking specs. If the speaker just says frequency response 30-25,000 Hz and no other information like deviation and how it is measured, this "spec' tells you absolutely nothing. It could be interpreted to meaning nothing more than if you put any frequency in between 30 and 25,000 Hz, SOMETHING will come out. Frequency response, without some statement of the error band, the measurement conditions and such, doesn't mean a thing.

[Bolding and a few grammatical 'repairs,' without affecting meaning, added by me.]

Now, except for the first site I linked to, these are all sites I just Googled tonight and copied excerpts from for this thread. If I wanted to take the time (and no, I don't :D ) I could go back thru 25+ years of my audio magazines and scan articles written by the likes of Julian Hirsch, Craig Stark, David Ranada, Ken Pohlman, Bob Carver and a myriad of other brilliant and renowned audio engineers and reviewers who've all said the same things. As I've said, this is common knowledge among audiophiles (and even quasi-audiophiles like me :p ).

So no offense, man :), but you're just mistaken on this. If you can cite some credible source that says that the top & bottom numbers in FR specs without +/- qualifiers (aka "variances" or "dB level ranges" or "tolerance") are somehow assumed to be F3 points, let's see it. I don't know where you got that idea, 'cuz again, your post is the first I've ever heard of that notion.

Whew ... long post. :Q

:moon:
 

ribbon13

Diamond Member
Feb 1, 2005
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again... I'm already aware of all this, probably more so than you, I have a test bench and can readily give you accurate electromechanical (Thiele/Small) parameters for any driver someone brings me to test. I promoted the fact that a 1970's Dynaco stereo 80 rated at 40WPC can readily devastate a huge section of 5x100w home theater receivers for sheer power for a long time on this very forum.

Anyway, it was assumption based on driver sizes, and likely drivers used based on price and the quoted cabinet sizes and port diameter. I find it very unlikely it's F3 is any higher than 60Hz, which is far more than i can say about his old speakers. Anyway, theres at least one positive comment about them on the net:
http://livefromcedia.com/articles/article_296.shtml


I appreciate your rage against the way things are, but as the way things are find me one pair of bookshelf speakers that do list the variation that aren't >$350 'parlor-class' speakers.
http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm...SO=2&DID=7&CATID=25&ObjectGroup_ID=764
Even the Pioneer ISO-drives and the MTX 60i, the most expensive pre-builts they have don't carry this spec. Even the PIONEER S-HF41-LR 3-ways, which have the best likelyhood of maintaining tonal balance don't include this spec...

This is about as likely as manufacturers listing THD for 20Hz-20KHz instead of at just 1000Hz.
 

Ken90630

Golden Member
Mar 6, 2004
1,571
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Originally posted by: ribbon13
again... I'm already aware of all this, probably more so than you ....
Then why did you say, earlier in this thread,

Originally posted by: ribbon13
Doesn't anyone know when you see blah balh Hz to blah blah KHz, the lower figure is generally an 'F3'? Like those MTXs?

??? What are you talking about? :confused:

For the third time, I'll ask you to cite your source for this claim. Per all the links I provided in my previous post, and you yourself essentially saying today that you're "already aware of" the fact that FR specs without +/- qualifiers are meaningless, why are you still opining that the qualifiers are unnecessary because the upper & lower numbers in the range are somehow 'understood' to represent the F3 (aka -3dB) number? :confused:

Originally posted by: ribbon13
I find it very unlikely it's F3 is any higher than 60Hz, which is far more than i can say about his old speakers.
That may or may not be the case, but that's not what you said before. You stated, "Doesn't anyone know when you see blah balh Hz to blah blah KHz, the lower figure is generally an 'F3'? Like those MTXs?"
Well, the lower figure on the mfgr's Web site is 48Hz, so if you're still standing by your assertion that the lower figure is an F3, then why are you now stating, today, that you "find it unlikely it's [sic] F3 is any higher than 60Hz"? How could it be 60Hz if the 48Hz figure represents the F3? Which is it? ;)

Re the rest of what you've said, you're going off on tangents. I'm not questioning your opinion or experience re certain speakers being able to reproduce certain FRs with or without a +/- qualifier being provided w/the spec. I totally agree that it is certainly possible. I'm saying that without the qualifier, it is wishful thinking at best (and delusional at worst) to just assume that the FR is flat to within +/-3dB when no qualifier is given. You claimed that we can assume such a thing, and I'm saying that is factually incorrect. And the authors of all the articles I linked to in my previous post, as well as prominent audio engineers and professional reviewers whose work I've been reading for more than 20 years, agree with me. So they're all wrong and you're right? :confused:

Originally posted by: ribbon13
I appreciate your rage against the way things are, ...."
Not a rage at all. :) Just pointing out the facts and trying to help others avoid being deceived by mfgrs' FR spec claims that are dishonest and intentionally misleading.

Originally posted by: ribbon13
... but as the way things are find me one pair of bookshelf speakers that do list the variation that aren't >$350 'parlor-class' speakers.
Alright. Here 'ya go. ;) Hardly "parlor-class" speakers.
And here's the mfgr's Web page -- click on the "Technical Specs" link on the right side and note the FR spec listed as "48Hz - 20KHz +/- 3dB." The way it's supposed to be. ;)

Originally posted by: ribbon13
Even the Pioneer ISO-drives and the MTX 60i, the most expensive pre-builts they have don't carry this spec. Even the PIONEER S-HF41-LR 3-ways, which have the best likelyhood of maintaining tonal balance don't include this spec...
Then either the Web site is remiss in not providing them, or the mfgr is intentionally omitting the qualifier to hide the speakers' true FR. If the FR were indeed flat to within +/-3dB, why wouldn't the mfgr say so? I think we both know the answer.

Originally posted by: ribbon13
I have a test bench and can readily give you accurate electromechanical (Thiele/Small) parameters for any driver someone brings me to test.
Which parameters?

Originally posted by: ribbon13
I promoted the fact that a 1970's Dynaco stereo 80 rated at 40WPC can readily devastate a huge section of 5x100w home theater receivers for sheer power for a long time on this very forum.
Perhaps, but I can't comment on that without knowing all the details. But assuming you're correct, what does that have to do with anything in this thread? :confused: Again, the entire issue that I'm challenging you on is whether or not FR specs without +/- qualifiers are necessary -- you say they're not because the upper/lower #s somehow represent "F3" points, and I've pointed out to you, with overwhelming evidence, that this is incorrect. Everything else you're bringing up, from the MTX speaker's performance to Dynaco amps, is irrelevant.

Again, no offense, man. Just next time, when you say "doesn't anyone know ...," (and you were clearly referring to me and my earlier post and insinuating I didn't know what I was talking about), make sure you have your facts straight. Like all of us, I've been wrong about things before and will probably be wrong again, about something, at some point in the future, but I think you're the one mistaken this time. All I've asked you for (3 times now) is a credible source for your claim that +/- qualifiers are unnecesary because the upper & lower #s in a FR spec supposedly represent F3 points. We're all still waiting. :)

EDITED to fix a typo.
 

Operandi

Diamond Member
Oct 9, 1999
5,508
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Originally posted by: MichaelD
Bumping this thread; I'd like to see what the OP decided to do.

Alright, so anyone still following this thread is in for quite a journey.

I've revised my plans yet again. I am still considering active monitors but am also looking at bookshelf's and passive monitors. I am also strongly considering building the speakers up myself. Though I would like to not have to design a crossover network from scratch so perhaps start with a known kit and draw up plans for my own enclosure.

Power for any of the above options would likely come from a used (to keep costs down) Adcom or similar, something in the 50-100 watt range.

The X-LS from AV123 that YOyoYOhowsDAjello suggested looks like a good option from what looks like a really cool company but at 12" is just a little too deep for placement on my current desk.

I've looked a bunch of different bookshelf options but certainly not all. So far the KEF iQ1 has caught my eye: (random reseller link) -- (AudioReview thread). The dimensions are about right and coxial driver should work well in the near-field environment, bonus points for being some of the best looking speakers I've ever seen.

As for building up from semi-scratch. I found a 7" Seas Coaxial that has nice specs along with a X-over that has already been designed for the driver for use in the Seas Loki kit. The design concept would be very similar to the iQ1, just on higher scale (hopefully), this also represents about the max I want to spend on the "2" portion of this 2.1 project.
 

MichaelD

Lifer
Jan 16, 2001
31,528
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I'm still following the thread. :)

Those XLS bookshelves look really nice for $200! I wonder if their bass response is "that much better" than the not-so-stellar MTX 5i's I bought. I should've gotten those instead of the MTX 5i bookshelves for $50. You get what you pay for. :eek:

So, you're going to build your own, huh? Remember this; the crossover, drivers and the cabinet all interact. A crossover designed for a set of drivers in a .5cf cabinet will not make the drivers sound the same (at least the woofer) in .3cf or .7cf cabinet. :)

I'm new to the "monitors as PC speakers" club. But I can tell you this; there is no palpable bass coming from the MTXs I bought. A little EQ in WMP has music sounding very good; anything from about 80Hz up sounds TONS better than my 2.1 pc speaker set did. But there's no thump, no rumble at all. :( I need a sub or bigger monitors...and the bigger monitors thing isn't really an option. My desk is tiny and speakers 20 inches tall and 12 inches wide just flat won't fit. I posted a pic of my setup on pics.bbzzdd.com about two days ago..I think it's called "desk." I'd link to it, but it's blocked here at work.

I'm considering this 10" sub from PartsExpress to round out the sound and provide rumble. I have a small computer room and this would be the perfect size and power for my gaming and music-listening needs . I.E. not piss off the neighbors too much. This coming from someone (me) that owns an SVS PB2-plus...I know about pissed off neighbors. :D

Oh, BTW. The Behringer A500 is a STEAL at it's current $200 selling price. NICE amp. Built like a tank, doesn't hiss when the input is muted and clean power. Nice looking too, IMO.

Good luck w/your setup and keep posting. :)

 

YOyoYOhowsDAjello

Moderator<br>A/V & Home Theater<br>Elite member
Aug 6, 2001
31,205
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For real thumping and rumbling, adding a sub is the easiest way to do that I think. You'd have to get some pretty large and serious speakers on their own to give you a good rumbling.

If I wanted to get a more full-range system going, I think adding a little powered sub to my X-LS set would do quite nicely. I actually considered getting a used X-Sub to add to my office system but I figured I'd be pushing my luck even with the fairly decent sound isolation I have in there already.
 

MichaelD

Lifer
Jan 16, 2001
31,528
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Hey, Jelloman!!! I was hoping you'd pop your head in...I was about to PM you...which I'll do...don't wanna hijack Operandi's thread.

I edited my post above...what do you think about the Dayton sub?
 

YOyoYOhowsDAjello

Moderator<br>A/V & Home Theater<br>Elite member
Aug 6, 2001
31,205
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I had the old downfiring version of the 10" dayton and I can honestly say that it was a very good purchase for the ~$125 shipped I paid for it.

I think at that price it's going to be hard to go wrong with it. I'm not sure what kind of quality difference there is between this new version and the old one, but if it comes close, I think that's a very solid bet.

Just to throw another one out there, the BIC H100 is supposed to be another great budget option
Here's on videogon http://cgi.videogon.com/cgi-bin/cl.pl?subwactv&1183266207
 

MichaelD

Lifer
Jan 16, 2001
31,528
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Thanks much, YYHDJ. Your personal experience with it counts big time in my book. Sold.

You'll have a PM in a minute or two.
 

corsa

Senior member
Nov 6, 2005
237
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Its not the speakers/amp that need to be changed (point of diminishing returns) but the stereo recorded interface we are using.. u need to use SRS, or anything that uses the principles of HRTF for sound reproduction. (and no, not 5.1)
If u haven't experienced a HRTF demo, then u have yet to hear a true 360deg soundfield. Music recorded by microphone, aint the way our ears would originally hear it.
..i didnt bother reading all 4 pages of this thread, how did it get soo long??
 

alcoholbob

Diamond Member
May 24, 2005
6,390
469
126
Originally posted by: Howard
Speakers with SNR as part of the spec are decidedly not audiophile. And 4" mids... Good luck integrating those speakers with any sub.

I think the number is just there because the amplifier is built-in. Obviously there's no need for a speaker to have an SNR, that's would be a complete misnomer.