I ended up picking up my Model 3 this past Saturday. As a bit of an update, I felt a little bad about splurging too much, and I did downgrade to the RWD model, but I have pretty much all extras except the 19" wheels. (I just don't want Continental tires.) I did consider switching back to Performance and dropping all tech extras, but I ended up not doing that. (Partly because they locked me in really quickly after changing to RWD!) My only complaint about the Aero wheels is that they're more of a dark gray where some photos made them look like more of a black. It's not a big deal at all, but just a minor quibble.
As for the car, the only thing that I don't like is the turn signal. My goodness, I thought I hated Ford's turn signal, but the Tesla one is just significantly worse. To be clear, my personal preference for turn signals is what I had in my Nissan, which was the "stuck" kind. In other words, if you want to turn right, you push the stalk up and it stays up until either you push it back to its original position or it determines that you've completed a turn and the car puts it back. The Model 3 turn signal is very similar to the Ford in that it has two states in each direction where both are momentary switches. A slight press in either direction will turn on a temporary signal (three flashes), and a longer press will provide a slight click followed by a continuous signal.
There are two issues that I've run into regarding this...
1. There's so little difference in force required between the temporary and continuous signal positions that it's actually kind of hard to use the temporary signal. You have to give it a very slight push in either direction, which is best done with a single finger. I really wouldn't care much about this if it wasn't for...
2. The continuous turn signal either doesn't turn off or takes far, far too long to turn off. To give you an idea, when using the turn signal in a parking lot, which as an aside, gets me an odd amount of derision from coworkers, it took the entire distance of a single aisle (about 60 meters) for the signal to turn off. When turning down a road near my house, it takes getting past a house (yet again, about 60 meters) for it to finally turn off.
If it just took a little bit longer than I'd expect for it to turn off, I wouldn't really care too much, but typically, the signal just doesn't ever turn off. Oddly enough, the
manual states that the signal will turn off if the lever is moved in the opposite direction (page 46-47), but that doesn't work. The turn signal appears to require you to always press it up to turn it off regardless of which way the signal is indicating.
(To note, I got the distances from:
https://www.daftlogic.com/projects-advanced-google-maps-distance-calculator.htm )
I don't really have any other issues with the car. I did have the audio system screw up on me on the drive back, and oddly enough, a friend had the audio system screw up in his X on the same day. I had to give it the Two Thumb Salute to reset it. That's probably the biggest issue with having everything on one screen -- if something messes up, you lose all information and ability to change settings. Although, the car does maintain whatever setting you're currently on, which includes cruise control.
I'm still working on getting my HPWC hooked up. It has been a bit of a pain due to my service panel not being in my garage as it's in the foyer, which is right off the garage. I've had to scrape the popcorn ceiling so I can cut into it and run the 6-gauge NM-B, which will give me 40A (50A breaker, 40A continuous). Although, after scraping about 10-12 feet in the one room, I really dread scraping 18 feet in my garage. I'm tempted to just run external conduit in the garage, but if I do that, then I can't use NM-B (you're limited to 10 feet of NM-B in a conduit). So, I'd have to swap from NM-B to THHN when going into the garage, and run THHN in the conduit.
In that case, I'd prefer full 4-gauge THHN, but I can't run conduit starting at the panel due to its location... unless I run it across the ceiling with some sort of concealment. In other words, it's just a ton easier to run NM-B. The only other option is to ignore the internal run completely and run the cable outside along the wall. (My guess is that this is what an actual electrician would do since it requires no clean-up/remodeling.) It's not impossible, but there would be considerably more wire, and it would have to pass under an awning (not hard, but it would dislodge some support blocks), it would require mounting support brackets every 3 feet into brick. With every scrape, I kept considering whether it would be better to just do it that way.
Right now, I've been using the standard 110V charging, which gives me enough power given my shorter commute, but it's definitely not great. Although, my issue is really that a good chunk of my house is wired with 14-gauge NM-B on 15A breakers. (That's up to spec, but no one wires a house that way anymore. Standard outlets should be on a 20A breaker with 12-gauge wiring regardless of 15A or 20A outlets.) Also, my garage is all on a single 15A breaker that is shared with the connected foyer! I was mowing the lawn this past weekend (with an electric lawnmower), and I was surprised when I came back in to a dark garage. I had been charging two lawnmower batteries earlier along with the car, and when I saw that the light was off and the garage door opener had a red LED lit, I knew the breaker had tripped. I turned the car down from 12A to 10A, and it was fine after that.