Kadarin
Lifer
What not to do in a gun store: http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=30b_1421174383
What not to do in a gun store: http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=30b_1421174383
Anyone ever deal with lowpriceguns.com?
Back on New Year's Day my dad found them and saw they had good prices on ammo and had stuff in stock. I did a quick check and found mostly good reviews but there were a few reviews that seemed to indicate they weren't that great.
I looked the other day and all the stuff I was looking at back on 1/1 is now out of stock.
What not to do in a gun store: http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=30b_1421174383
Technically, replacing the slide on a 1911 isn't advised. Everyone makes their 1911 different than the rest, unless they're following GI spec or Colt specs to the T. A bunch of gun smithing is needed to check spacings and ensure that the spacings are fine and adjust them/refinish it if not (changing a barrel while keeping the same slide/frame also comes with its amount of gun smithing needed.)
What not to do in a gun store: http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=30b_1421174383
Yeah, I'm kind of familiar. I've built an STI and a Fusion from the ground up before. Over the course of years I've had 10 or so 1911's and most do play well with others, though there are a few that the slide was too loose or tight or the slide stop didn't align correctly. Frame rail length between Commander and Gov't is also different but only slightly. This one seems to work fine although I've only run 2) five round tests. I'll take it to the range next weekend and see how it goes with a thorough exam after cleaning. It isn't my defense gun in either form so reliability isn't my issue. Thanks for the heads up tho.
Edit: In thinking about it my Taurus and my Sig were the ones that didn't play well with others at all.
never seen a gun shop where the employee didn't check to see if the gun was loaded, even on a brand new gun.
curious how it got loaded to begin with? If they bought it used, no one checked it out before buying it or even afterwards????
Cylinder open for a revolver and slide locked for an auto as soon as it's in my hand...and what kind of idiot pulls the damn trigger with it pointed at their own hand?😕I've heard of customers chambering a round because they stuck one of their loaded magazines into the gun. Every time I touch a gun I check if it's loaded. If it is, I unload it - period. I then hand the gun back unloaded. I simply refuse to hand around a loaded gun. If only everyone knew the 4 rules...
Cylinder open for a revolver and slide locked for an auto as soon as it's in my hand...and what kind of idiot pulls the damn trigger with it pointed at their own hand?😕
Every shop I've been in has the "aim here to test fire" bulls-eyes at the ceiling level too. I seem to be one of the few people to ask "may I dry fire?" too - I'm always THANKED for asking first.
never seen a gun shop where the employee didn't check to see if the gun was loaded, even on a brand new gun.
curious how it got loaded to begin with? If they bought it used, no one checked it out before buying it or even afterwards????
The sig isn't terribly surprising. As for fit, I have a Dan Wesson CCO (commander/officer - short magazine and grip matched with a shorter slide and barrel. amazing carry piece that aside from my revolvers, is my most reliable gun. In 6-700 rounds it has no FTFs, misfires or FTEs. It's my go to defense gun.) But, being a Dan Wesson that's hand fit and doesn't have any real play between the slide and frame, I would NEVER try another slide on that frame, or another frame with that slide. I'm going to guess that any of the top tier hand fitted 1911s would have issues.
Edit: I'll also guess that putting a series 80 slide on a series 70 frame would not be a working combo due to the extra safeties on the firing pin in the 80? Just a guess though.
I put a hand on a Dan Wesson last weekend. Absolutely beautiful gun but out of my price range. I'd imagine you're right about the top tier guns being tightly fitted. I certainly wouldn't play around with that kind of investment.
As for the 70/80 thing, you are right that the 80 slide won't work unless the firing pin block is removed. Not particularly hard to do but then there is a hole left directly in to the firing pin bore that would let powder residue and such up there and be impossible to clean. I would bet someone makes a plug, but I have never seen one. The other way, A 70 slide on an 80 frame is easier. They make spacer kits that replace the levers on the 80 frame. The S&W in my photo is an 80 but with a twist. Instead of the fire control pushing the pin safety, the backstrap safety does.
cool, I am tempted to do that myself. Just don't have the jig and stuff for it. I found a few deals for in the raw ones, but not sure I want an unandonized one either.
same
though I could pretty much get one anondized for free pretty easily
just get an 80% that's already anodized (which is what i did). the places you machine out are not wear surfaces IIRC (and aluminum is already corrosion resistant).
What not to do in a gun store: http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=30b_1421174383
New ATF "opinion" on the stabilizing braces (e.g. SIG SB-15)
Mr. Gunsngear video on the subject
Huh. It'll be interesting to see how this plays out.
New ATF "opinion" on the stabilizing braces (e.g. SIG SB-15)
Mr. Gunsngear video on the subject
Huh. It'll be interesting to see how this plays out.
All right, so I'm looking for ideas. If you guys had a maximum of $1000 to spend on a 50-state legal gun (I'm looking for a new job and am casting nets as far as Massachusetts and California), what would you buy?
Is the gun for the job and/or for CCW or duty?
If MA/CA were up for consideration I'd personally lean toward ones not hamstrung by the mag restrictions, like a SIG P227.