YAGT: OMG I love guns

[Merad]

- What micrometer do you recommend? I was watching a video on YouTube by iraqveteran8888 yesterday and he said to figure on spending around $125 for a good one.

Idk what you'd need a micrometer for, especially not a $125 pair. My calipers were like $25 and measure down to .001", and that's all you need. You can actually get them cheaper, that is, all of the basic electronic calipers appear to be the same item, they're just rebranded with the name of whoever's selling them. Anyway, I think even "high end" calipers are only something like $50-75.

- For die sets, I think I'm going to start with a 30-06 one since the factory rounds are so dang expensive. Should I be looking at a 3-piece die set? I looked at them in-store at Cabela's and I think they also had a 4-piece set as well. Also, I don't need any shell holders.

It depends on your needs. When a round is fired the case is fire formed to your chamber. If you're using a bolt action rifle, and your rounds are only fired in that gun, then you'll probably want a neck sizer die, since it does less work on the case and will make them last longer. If you're shooting in a semi-auto, or if you plan to use once fired brass (that wasn't fired in your gun), or if you want your reloads to work in any other rifle, then you need a full length sizer die that reforms the entire casing.

Other than that all you *need* is a seating die.

Lee makes a rifle charging die that you can use to activate your powder measure, but AFAIK it's common to all rifle calibers. I imagine that other die makers have something similar.

Then there are also crimp dies. IIRC crimping rifle rounds is only strictly necessary if you're using them in a tube feed or ??? (something else I can't remember). But personally I prefer to go ahead and use the Lee factory crimp dies on everything.

So far I'm using Lee dies for everything. No complaints.

- I have the Lyman T-Mag II Expert Deluxe Kit (got it for just over $300 at a Cabela's VIP sales thing), an ultrasonic cleaner (tested it already, works great), and shell holders. Any other MAJOR items I'm missing? I don't care if what comes in the kit isn't the latest and greatest, I'm concerned with what is absolutely necessary that I'm lacking (like case lube; Cabela's employee highly recommended "One Shot" to me).

According to the kit description it comes with case lube. I do prefer One Shot though, because it's easy to apply thoroughly (you need to lube both the outside of the case and inside the neck) and doesn't need to be cleaned off. I've seen claims that it doesn't work as well on larger caliber cases, but I have no complaints using it for .223...

Just from the description it's not clear if the case trimming setup included in that kit has anything to chamfer and deburr the case mouth after trimming. If it doesn't I'd pick up the Lyman Case Prep Multitool, it includes bits for chamfer/deburr and primer pocker reaming/cleaning.

Other than that, things that come to mind are:
-Calipers, as already mentioned
-Loading trays to hold rounds as you're working
-Misc bins for sorting cases, holding bullets, etc. Although if you have a stockpile of empty cool whip containers or something similar they work well
-Kinetic bullet puller, cause you're gonna have some screw ups
-Tumbler setup for case cleaning (not strictly required but highly recommended) Edit: missed your mention of the cleaner

 

[velillen]

Idk what you'd need a micrometer for, especially not a $125 pair. My calipers were like $25 and measure down to .001", and that's all you need. You can actually get them cheaper, that is, all of the basic electronic calipers appear to be the same item, they're just rebranded with the name of whoever's selling them. Anyway, I think even "high end" calipers are only something like $50-75.

High end ones goes for much more than 50-75 bucks 🙂 But like we both mentioned not really needed for a beginner either.

Then there are also crimp dies. IIRC crimping rifle rounds is only strictly necessary if you're using them in a tube feed or ??? (something else I can't remember). But personally I prefer to go ahead and use the Lee factory crimp dies on everything.

So far I'm using Lee dies for everything. No complaints.

Tube feed (leverguns) and anytime shooting hotter loads is when i crimp. When i do crimp i put a LIGHT crimp (talking .001-.002) and havent had any issue even with hot 44mag. Ive tested crimped vs non crimped and I am not good enough of a shooter to tell the difference. Groups sizes are the same for me.

But if you ask on some forums youll spark huge debates and get pretty much nowhere. I recommend just testing it out and see if you notice a difference with crimp and without crimp.

According to the kit description it comes with case lube. I do prefer One Shot though, because it's easy to apply thoroughly (you need to lube both the outside of the case and inside the neck) and doesn't need to be cleaned off. I've seen claims that it doesn't work as well on larger caliber cases, but I have no complaints using it for .223...

Just from the description it's not clear if the case trimming setup included in that kit has anything to chamfer and deburr the case mouth after trimming. If it doesn't I'd pick up the Lyman Case Prep Multitool, it includes bits for chamfer/deburr and primer pocker reaming/cleaning.

Other than that, things that come to mind are:
-Calipers, as already mentioned
-Loading trays to hold rounds as you're working
-Misc bins for sorting cases, holding bullets, etc. Although if you have a stockpile of empty cool whip containers or something similar they work well
-Kinetic bullet puller, cause you're gonna have some screw ups
-Tumbler setup for case cleaning (not strictly required but highly recommended) Edit: missed your mention of the cleaner

I knew i wasnt thinking of some stuff lol. Coffee cans work good.

I like having a case tumbler even though i have STM for primary cleaning. Its nice to media tumble my brass first, then lube and resize, then STM tumble. But thats just a bonus, ultrasonic will work just fine. But if you see a cheap vibratory tumbler it might be worth picking up at somepoint.

 

[Merad]

Well I spent too long debating with myself about that S&W 586, someone else grabbed it. Oh well!

 

[alkemyst]

Well I spent too long debating with myself about that S&W 586, someone else grabbed it. Oh well!

Found one for a steal:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Smith-Wesso...on-0-177-/321220808302?_trksid=p2054897.l4276


😉

 

[Svnla]

IMO there isnt really in the basic kits. If you start getting ones with different triggers then theres a difference. But most basic kits you wouldnt tell one from another.

PS i like the PSA (not the P-TAC ones) Lower Parts kits and Lower Build kits (parts kits plus stocks)

In another forum, posters said the same thing about PTAC.

What is wrong with it?

They said for PSA upper: CHF > Premium > PTAC.

 

[velillen]

In another forum, posters said the same thing about PTAC.

What is wrong with it?

They said for PSA upper: CHF > Premium > PTAC.

I have no experience with them and they are a new company. Thats the only reason i wouldnt go with them. More than likely the LPK's are just fine. A dfor everything else....i dont know

 

[clamum]

Idk what you'd need a micrometer for, especially not a $125 pair. My calipers were like $25 and measure down to .001", and that's all you need. You can actually get them cheaper, that is, all of the basic electronic calipers appear to be the same item, they're just rebranded with the name of whoever's selling them. Anyway, I think even "high end" calipers are only something like $50-75.

Ugh, I'm not sure why the heck I wrote "micrometer." I did mean "caliper." There's a ton on Amazon.com for around $30 or less, guess I'll just pick one and hope it's good. I guess if you take care of it (like not ripping the jaws apart quickly, seems like that could mess it up), it should be ok.

Thanks for the info, and the other suggestions as well!

 

[SpatiallyAware]

Ugh, I'm not sure why the heck I wrote "micrometer." I did mean "caliper." There's a ton on Amazon.com for around $30 or less, guess I'll just pick one and hope it's good. I guess if you take care of it (like not ripping the jaws apart quickly, seems like that could mess it up), it should be ok.

Thanks for the info, and the other suggestions as well!

Harbor Freight has inexpensive micrometers that work fine down to .001 as long as you know not to apply to much force when trying to measure things. They're around $30. I have two, and a couple of thickness gauges, and both of them have stayed accurate over a number of years and thousands of uses.

 

[clamum]

Harbor Freight has inexpensive micrometers that work fine down to .001 as long as you know not to apply to much force when trying to measure things. They're around $30. I have two, and a couple of thickness gauges, and both of them have stayed accurate over a number of years and thousands of uses.

Hmmm. Good to know. I'd definitely rather buy a $30 pair and have them last several years, than buy a $120 pair. I'd only use them for reloading anyway, and I don't give a crap about competition loads or handloading the most accurate round on the planet. 🙂

 

[Phanuel]

I'd personally recommend a bullet puller that attaches to your press instead of the kinetic. Too many stories of people setting off primers and things flying while using those for my tastes.

 

[phucheneh]

On the mic thing...I think there are three key words to know. Micrometer, dial [caliper], and vernier [caliper].

A dial indicator can be on a caliper (along with a vernier scale), or it can be attached to a multitude of linear devices that can act upon it and make the gears turn. I'm not quite sure what we're measuring here, but a dial indicator is usually the way to go for measuring differences as opposed to concrete numbers. I would not trust the one on a cheap caliper to be terribly accurate...if you truly need thousandths or better, I would get a mic (has the thimble you spin). If you only need one size, it's not that much money for a decent used one on eBay or some such. If it's really something good (Mitutoyo is all I know by name), it's gonna last forever, more or less. Even if it's in need of calibration, it'll at least be 1) close and 2) consistent.

For gunsmithing work, I don't think I could trust the gears in a HF dial. Their digitals might be more consistent since there are no wearable parts. I know I paid well under $100 for a digital brake mic like five years ago, and it has not lost any accuracy. Cornwell-branded, but I would bet it's Chinese-made and not much different from what HF will sell you today.

 

[phucheneh]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MITUTOYO-1-...537?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ecc9adbf9

Something like that is SO worth the $30, IMO, but I dunno what range of measurements you'd need to take. That would set bullet depth on handgun reloads, at least (are there other critical measurements in reloading?).

 

[clamum]

I'd personally recommend a bullet puller that attaches to your press instead of the kinetic. Too many stories of people setting off primers and things flying while using those for my tastes.

Something like this RCBS Bullet Puller? I see you have to buy the collets too, but I guess they're not too expensive (~$15). I'd feel better paying a bit more for this solution as opposed to a kinetic/impact/inertia puller. One of the comments for the RCBS puller was a guy having a round good off from a kinetic and saying "never again" and going to the on-press puller.

 

[velillen]

On the mic thing...I think there are three key words to know. Micrometer, dial [caliper], and vernier [caliper].

A dial indicator can be on a caliper (along with a vernier scale), or it can be attached to a multitude of linear devices that can act upon it and make the gears turn. I'm not quite sure what we're measuring here, but a dial indicator is usually the way to go for measuring differences as opposed to concrete numbers. I would not trust the one on a cheap caliper to be terribly accurate...if you truly need thousandths or better, I would get a mic (has the thimble you spin). If you only need one size, it's not that much money for a decent used one on eBay or some such. If it's really something good (Mitutoyo is all I know by name), it's gonna last forever, more or less. Even if it's in need of calibration, it'll at least be 1) close and 2) consistent.

For gunsmithing work, I don't think I could trust the gears in a HF dial. Their digitals might be more consistent since there are no wearable parts. I know I paid well under $100 for a digital brake mic like five years ago, and it has not lost any accuracy. Cornwell-branded, but I would bet it's Chinese-made and not much different from what HF will sell you today.

Thats very true for what you mention...gunsmithing and precision measuring.

but he mentioned he just wants plinking ammo (more or less) in which case a cheap 20 dollar set of calipers will works great and last many years if properly cared for. For plinking ammo a ever a spread in OAL of .05 isnt going to really be a huge issue. Unless you are loading at or above max loads, in which case load development would have told you to stop before OAL become a big issue anyways. My kobalt digital calipers (20 bucks form lowes awhile ago) have held up just fine and give me my acceptable range of error in the thousandths. Most of my ammo is within .01 spread (usually closer to .005 spread)

And since he is just starting out as well...no need ot blow that kind of money if you arent going to take real advantage of it (ie setting shoulders back by thousandth)

 

[SpatiallyAware]

I'm talking about the digital HF stuff. They're accurate, I test mine often and have had no issues.

 

[Merad]

Ugh, I'm not sure why the heck I wrote "micrometer." I did mean "caliper." There's a ton on Amazon.com for around $30 or less, guess I'll just pick one and hope it's good. I guess if you take care of it (like not ripping the jaws apart quickly, seems like that could mess it up), it should be ok.

Thanks for the info, and the other suggestions as well!

This is the set I use:
http://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arse.../dp/B0018E9FVC

But like I said, if you look at the pics all of the cheaper (< $30) calipers appear to be the same item just rebranded.

I'd personally recommend a bullet puller that attaches to your press instead of the kinetic. Too many stories of people setting off primers and things flying while using those for my tastes.

I haven't the slightest idea how that would happen unless you're a total idiot... you'd have to be using them upside down to hit the primer.

 

[shortylickens]

I'm going to be replacing my Berettas wood with plastic.

Screw anyone who doesnt like it.

 

[Phanuel]

I haven't the slightest idea how that would happen unless you're a total idiot... you'd have to be using them upside down to hit the primer.

*shrug* I'm still not a fan of using a hammer shaped object to essentially try and forcibly remove a round from its casing via kinetic energy. The press pullers are 0 mess and way way way faster.

Something like this RCBS Bullet Puller? I see you have to buy the collets too, but I guess they're not too expensive (~$15). I'd feel better paying a bit more for this solution as opposed to a kinetic/impact/inertia puller. One of the comments for the RCBS puller was a guy having a round good off from a kinetic and saying "never again" and going to the on-press puller.

Yeah, I have the Hornady version, but it's the same thing. Really easy to just lift the round into it, switch the handle closed, pull down with your press and have it pull the casing from the round.

 

[rudeguy]

So what's a bad ass 9mm to check out? I had to give up on .40, my wrists just aren't strong enough.

What's a nice single stack 9mm?

 

[BladeVenom]

So what's a bad ass 9mm to check out? I had to give up on .40, my wrists just aren't strong enough.

What's a nice single stack 9mm?

Try a 1911 9mm. Most new single stack 9mm pistols are going to be small, and have snappier recoil than a full sized .40.

 

[Merad]

So what's a bad ass 9mm to check out? I had to give up on .40, my wrists just aren't strong enough.

What's a nice single stack 9mm?

Are you planning to carry? Most single stacks are smaller guns meant for carry and will have snappier recoil as a result.

Probably sound like a broken record, but look at the Glock 19. IMO it's just about the perfect balance of size and capacity. Not to mention that it's really a pleasure to shoot. Just about every friend who tries mine walks away saying "I want one." Not to mention that if you like the Glock feel but not the size, you can go smaller (G26) or larger (G17).

 

[rudeguy]

Are you planning to carry? Most single stacks are smaller guns meant for carry and will have snappier recoil as a result.

Probably sound like a broken record, but look at the Glock 19. IMO it's just about the perfect balance of size and capacity. Not to mention that it's really a pleasure to shoot. Just about every friend who tries mine walks away saying "I want one." Not to mention that if you like the Glock feel but not the size, you can go smaller (G26) or larger (G17).

Already have a G26. I've been wanting a 19 but I also have been trying to branch out from Glock. I had a 23 and loved the size but couldn't deal with the muzzle flip.

I think it will come down to a G19 and a P229 unless someone has a better suggestion. I'm officially ruling out a 1911 since .45 was the big appeal of those for me.

I really wish I could get my wrists fixed 🙁

 

[Merad]

I really wish I could get my wrists fixed 🙁

Duck tape. :awe:

 

[Svnla]

So what's a bad ass 9mm to check out? I had to give up on .40, my wrists just aren't strong enough.

What's a nice single stack 9mm?

9 mm guns that I like, in no particular order. I do have Glock G26 Gen4.

Beretta Nano
S+W Shield - I really like this one but the external safety plus I am not right hand = no go for me <sad panda>
Ruger LC9
Kahr CM9
Walther PPS
Sig P290RS
Taurus P790
Kimber Solo
Springfield XDC

Right now, if I have to pick another 9 mm, I will pick either the Nano or PPS.

Nice 9 mm for CCW with plenty of practice plus HP defense rounds = all good.

 

[clamum]

So what's a bad ass 9mm to check out? I had to give up on .40, my wrists just aren't strong enough.

What's a nice single stack 9mm?

I like my Walther PPS 9mm. Comfortable to shoot IMO as well.