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yact: TRIUMPH!

A

andylawcc

Lifer
update 4

YES! 12th grade physic prevailed!
this morning when the exhaust manifold isn't as scotching as when it was yesterday afternoon, I inserted the wrench and push from the top side, and this time I have some body weight to add. it came off after two tries.
[fontsize=200]*********8THANK YOU GUYS!!!***************8 🙂 😉 🙂 🙂

now the engine light is still on though... 🙁

update 3
bought the Bosch, but now I just can't remove the previous one!!!!
any tips on removing it???


update 2
I am searching for a O2 Sensor for my car and found 3 brands.
the Bosch one is 97 bucks, while the others are about 55. Does price matter or I can just go with the cheaper one? Longetivity is not a main concern since my car is quite old (200k miles already) and the engine is about to die anyways. I just need it to pass smog.


UPDATE 1

went to autozone today, used their tester thing and found out the problem was just one of the Oxygen sensor! yeah... anyway, so here's the following question, where to buy one?
Autozone said theirs are 180 bucks. Bosch.

[old]
I need to pass smog and a friend of mine told me my cat is PROBABLY gone and need to be replaced, he said it will be about 600 bucks.
is he serious?

car spec:
1996 toyota celica
1.8L inline 4 (engine code 7a-fe, same one used in 1993-1998 Corollas and Prizms)
200,000 miles; manual tran
 
You can get cheap generic high flow (low quality) cats for around $100-150 around here, less if you know people with discounts.

I just got the entire exhaust on my ranger redone for $315 installed. That included a flowmaster muffler, a cheap cat, and mandrel bent pipes.
 
Jegs sells em for $65. Installation and OEM is another story. How does your friend know? Did the cat melt down and is now sitting in your driveway? Does your engine only run for 10 seconds at a time? Did you put sulfated fuel from an unknown source in your tank? Did you use diesel instead of regular gasoline?

Please post useful information such as make, model, year, engine, displacement, millege, and trans type. Not these stupid questions with exactly zero useful information in them.
 
Originally posted by: andylawcc
I need to pass smog and a friend of mine told me my cat is PROBABLY gone and need to be replaced, he said it will be about 600 bucks.
is he serious?
Click to expand...

He's raping you for lack of a better word andylawcc, what car do you own?
 
Here is a little hint: Emission controls have a 10 year federal mandated warranty. If your car was built after '95, then it is still under warranty with very very few exceptions.

Originally posted by: NeuroSynapsis
100 for generic
600 for oem

but an OEM will last you ALOT longer
Click to expand...
How did you come to this conclusion?
 
sorry, here are the informations:

1996, Toyota Celica
inline 4, 1.8L, engine code 7a-fe (same one used in 1994-1998 corollas), 200,000 miles, Manual tran.

my cat is still in tack and attached to the car, engine runs fine, and didn't put sulfate fuel nor diesel in the fuel tank. Engine Light is on though (this is what my friend's claim is based upon, he said the light is on because my cat is broke).
yes, he did tell me aftermarket one sells for 150 bucks but may not be compatible to my car if, as i quote, "the catalytic convertor is integrated to the exhaust system."
 
Originally posted by: Evadman
Here is a little hint: Emission controls have a 10 year federal mandated warranty. If your car was built after '95, then it is still under warranty with very very few exceptions.

Originally posted by: NeuroSynapsis
100 for generic
600 for oem

but an OEM will last you ALOT longer
Click to expand...
How did you come to this conclusion?
Click to expand...

Nope
8years/ 80000 miles
 
Originally posted by: andylawcc
sorry, here are the informations:

1996, Toyota Celica
inline 4, 1.8L, engine code 7a-fe (same one used in 1994-1998 corollas), 200,000 miles, Manual tran.

my cat is still in tack and attached to the car, engine runs fine, and didn't put sulfate fuel nor diesel in the fuel tank. Engine Light is on though (this is what my friend's claim is based upon, he said the light is on because my cat is broke).
yes, he did tell me aftermarket one sells for 150 bucks but may not be compatible to my car if, as i quote, "the catalytic convertor is integrated to the exhaust system."
Click to expand...
maybe he is wrong about why your engine light is on?

why not find out exactly why the engine light is on? Stop talking to your friend and go see a reliable mechanic already.
 
Originally posted by: Iron Woode
maybe he is wrong about why your engine light is on?

why not find out exactly why the engine light is on? Stop talking to your friend and go see a reliable mechanic already.
Click to expand...

yeah, I guess I will find someone else.
 
Originally posted by: andylawcc
sorry, here are the informations:

1996, Toyota Celica
inline 4, 1.8L, engine code 7a-fe (same one used in 1994-1998 corollas), 200,000 miles, Manual tran.

my cat is still in tack and attached to the car, engine runs fine, and didn't put sulfate fuel nor diesel in the fuel tank. Engine Light is on though (this is what my friend's claim is based upon, he said the light is on because my cat is broke).
yes, he did tell me aftermarket one sells for 150 bucks but may not be compatible to my car if, as i quote, "the catalytic convertor is integrated to the exhaust system."
Click to expand...

The converter for a Celica is $80-$150. The problem is finding one for CA emmissions.
 
Originally posted by: QuitBanningMe

The converter for a Celica is $80-$150. The problem is finding one for CA emmissions.
Click to expand...

and any exhaust shop will probably be in that price range right? how about installation?
 
Originally posted by: andylawcc
Originally posted by: QuitBanningMe

The converter for a Celica is $80-$150. The problem is finding one for CA emmissions.
Click to expand...

and any exhaust shop will probably be in that price range right? how about installation?
Click to expand...

Fvck no. Well maybe. You should figure about $350-400

....but again how do you know it is the cat.
 
go and try to pass emissions before you start buying new catalytic converters and doing all this work. I know here in Colorado that if you don't pass it the first time, you have 14 days to retry without having to pay for the test again. the paperwork you get back will show NOX, etc values and you will be able to tell if the converter is bad or something else.
 
The check engine light just means that something is wrong with the emissions system. It could be anything. More importantly, most cars, especially those before about 2000 don't have sensors to check the catalyst is operating correctly.

This means that the engine light can only be triggered by something 'before' the catalyst. This doesn't mean that the catalyst is fine, a lot of faults can destroy a catalyst in short order, but it doesn't mean it is bad either.

You need to find a garage that can read the error code from the ECU, and fix the problem. Then they need to test the catalyst once the problem is repaired, to make sure that it hasn't been damaged.
 
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