YACT: Tires

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TwoBills

Senior member
Apr 11, 2004
734
0
76
Originally posted by: Jeff7181
This is just a pissing match now. It's a shame too because it's a relevant subject.

TwoBills... I can't even reply to you cause you replied inside my quote which takes too much effort and time to read, separating my statements from your's. Not to mention how much effort it would take me to quote and reply to the points you may have brought up.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------:laugh: Yeah, I understand that. This thing is getting a bit hard too follow. I've got some valid, acurate points here and I have trouble making them with this keyboard. But, everybody seems to want to misread what I'm saying and discard me as some kind of dumbass. That's the way a lot of these threads go.

I'm just laying out the facts as I see them. Jeez, I'm pushing 40 years behind the wheel and the wrench. Don't know if it's even worth the effort trying to get my point across.

Oh, well..........
 

Pacfanweb

Lifer
Jan 2, 2000
13,149
57
91
Originally posted by: TwoBills
Yeah, I understand that. This thing is getting a bit hard too follow. I've got some valid, acurate points here and I have trouble making them with this keyboard. But, everybody seems to want to misread what I'm saying and discard me as some kind of dumbass. That's the way a lot of these threads go.

I'm just laying out the facts as I see them. Jeez, I'm pushing 40 years behind the wheel and the wrench. Don't know if it's even worth the effort trying to get my point across.

Oh, well..........
You did make some valid, accurate points. But you also made some completely wrong statements, too, such as your point about ignoring the manufacturer's tire pressure specs.
Nobody's calling you out on your valid points, just the incorrect ones. And they weren't misread.
 

TwoBills

Senior member
Apr 11, 2004
734
0
76
Originally posted by: Pacfanweb
Originally posted by: TwoBills
I can't tell if you're replying to me or Spidey, but I'll tell you this: What drove Roger away was some a**hole computer nerd, from this site, sending him porn email that his kid accidently read. So don't go laying that on me. I don't have the typing abilities that most of you guys seem to have, but I've been driving longer than most of you've been alive. What I stated in my op is on the money, and if you guys can't see that, well...................
Your "OP"
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------20,000 miles!? More like every 3 - 5,000 miles. Gotta rotate w/every oil change if you want tread life and even wear.[.b]
This depends on the car. Every 5k miles, I can go with. You can't hurt your tires doing that, and it's enough miles to justify that you aren't wasting money.
Your other posts, regarding hydroplaning and such, are crap. Not to mention 100% wrong, as I pointed out above.
I doubt you're been driving longer than I've been alive,(no teenage pimple farmer here) and even if you have, that doesn't make you an authority on car care. When I said leave the advice to the professionals, it was because your advice was wrong.
The fact that I happen to be a professional myself is irrelevant.
I don't care if the advice you're giving you just read out of a book, as long as it is good.
If not, you're very liable to be called on it, as was the case here.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hah, forgot about that post. Hm, didn't even get a response.
But I reread my 2nd op, and you all know damn well which one I was talking about. OK, OK. I didn't state my case for shocks properly. Of course tires are important, and unlike some people, not you pacfanweb, I'm not going to edit it to make it look right. But I do withdraw that statement I made: "This doesn't really have much to do with your tires". What idot said that? Good tires and good shocks. Bread & butter. The rest stands.
 

Pacfanweb

Lifer
Jan 2, 2000
13,149
57
91
Originally posted by: TwoBills
Hah, forgot about that post. Hm, didn't even get a response.
But I reread my 2nd op, and you all know damn well which one I was talking about. OK, OK. I didn't state my case for shocks properly. Of course tires are important, and unlike some people, not you pacfanweb, I'm not going to edit it to make it look right. But I do withdraw that statement I made: "This doesn't really have much to do with your tires". What idot said that? Good tires and good shocks. Bread & butter. The rest stands.
The rest stands?
The stuff about ignoring manufacturer's tire pressure specs? Speeding up if you have a blowout? Cars never needing alignment unless in an accident? Most alignments will do nothing or make it worse?
Okay, if you want to think that, that's fine. You're still wrong, but feel free.

BTW, I generally edit for spelling, and I don't see a problem with it. If I re-read something I wrote, and don't like it, I will fix it. Don't know why some folks are such asshats about editing. That's what it's for. Otherwise, you'll get folks that keep quoting your botched statement or whatever was wrong, before they scroll down and see another post where you corrected it.
 

jagec

Lifer
Apr 30, 2004
24,442
6
81
I rotate my tires, but if I was going to replace only 2 of them I'd put them on the back. My car is MR, so the back end can come around REAL easy in the rain, even with good rubber. And it brakes so well as it is that I wouldn't be losing much stopping power.
 

TwoBills

Senior member
Apr 11, 2004
734
0
76
Originally posted by: TwoBills
OK, let's see if I can bottom line this thread. Hm, hydroplaning, inflation pressure, alignment, rotations, front/rear w/the new tires, dry rot, oversteer/understeer w/a blowout. I think that'll cover it.

Hydroplaning: This doesn't really have much to do w/your tires. If your hydroplaning at all, except when you're pushin' it, you need a set of shocks. Good shocks/struts. Not the cheap crap.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ok, let's start over. There's the first point I made. Hm, I reread it. What a load of crap. Did I write that? Jeez.

Let me see if I can show you where I'm coming from. 1988, my truck's about 2 years old. Haven't done anything to it except oil changes and air filters. I watch my air pressure and tire wear, close. I've got 45K on my vehicle and about 5K left on the original tires. Put a new set of shocks (Grande 60's) on it.

I was crusin' down I-270 in the rain one night, 70 - 75 mph. Truck feels good, under control, highway a bit flooded. As I pass other small pu's I notice about half of them pull out and try to stay with me. They all pull back within a half mile. I'm thinkin' what the hell are they doing? Then it hit me. Those shocks are keepin' me strapped down. They're floatin'. Heh, heh. Never did hydroplane that night.

That's why I said that shocks were more important than tires. Now that I reread it, I realize what a stupid sounding statement that was. Even thou I still beleive it, I'm not going to try to sell you guys on it. But when I feel a little hydroplaning going on, I hope you guys don't mind if I slap a new set of Bilsteins on my truck.
 

mb

Lifer
Jun 27, 2004
10,234
2
71
I can tell you one thing new tires are good for: gas mileage. Mine were worn irregularly and then I discovered that three of them had slow leaks. Here I was thinking something was just terribly wrong with my engine.. I got them replaced with some brand new Pirelli tires and my in-car meter is reporting 10+ mpg* compared to the old ones.
*same MPG as when I first had the old set of tires put on
 

TwoBills

Senior member
Apr 11, 2004
734
0
76
Originally posted by: Pacfanweb
Originally posted by: TwoBills
and unlike some people, not you pacfanweb, I'm not going to edit it to make it look right.
From a few posts above this:
Edited: 05/25/2005 at 10:08 PM by TwoBills

That edit was 2 1/2 hours before I stated I wasn't going to edit. What, you want to continue the pissing match? I'm up for it.
 

Pacfanweb

Lifer
Jan 2, 2000
13,149
57
91
Originally posted by: TwoBills
Originally posted by: TwoBills
OK, let's see if I can bottom line this thread. Hm, hydroplaning, inflation pressure, alignment, rotations, front/rear w/the new tires, dry rot, oversteer/understeer w/a blowout. I think that'll cover it.

Hydroplaning: This doesn't really have much to do w/your tires. If your hydroplaning at all, except when you're pushin' it, you need a set of shocks. Good shocks/struts. Not the cheap crap.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ok, let's start over. There's the first point I made. Hm, I reread it. What a load of crap. Did I write that? Jeez.

Let me see if I can show you where I'm coming from. 1988, my truck's about 2 years old. Haven't done anything to it except oil changes and air filters. I watch my air pressure and tire wear, close. I've got 45K on my vehicle and about 5K left on the original tires. Put a new set of shocks (Grande 60's) on it.

I was crusin' down I-270 in the rain one night, 70 - 75 mph. Truck feels good, under control, highway a bit flooded. As I pass other small pu's I notice about half of them pull out and try to stay with me. They all pull back within a half mile. I'm thinkin' what the hell are they doing? Then it hit me. Those shocks are keepin' me strapped down. They're floatin'. Heh, heh. Never did hydroplane that night.

That's why I said that shocks were more important than tires. Now that I reread it, I realize what a stupid sounding statement that was. Even thou I still beleive it, I'm not going to try to sell you guys on it. But when I feel a little hydroplaning going on, I hope you guys don't mind if I slap a new set of Bilsteins on my truck.
I can see why that might have made you think that about shocks, but did you ever think that the trucks that couldn't keep up with you might have had worse tires than you, or simply weren't comfortable running that fast in the rain? Plus, you don't know that your truck wouldn't have performed the same under those conditions without the new shocks, from what I read there.
But sure, feel free to put shocks on every time you feel a bit of hydroplaning. I'm sure the manufacturers will thank you.
 

Pacfanweb

Lifer
Jan 2, 2000
13,149
57
91
Originally posted by: TwoBills
Originally posted by: Pacfanweb
Originally posted by: TwoBills
and unlike some people, not you pacfanweb, I'm not going to edit it to make it look right.
From a few posts above this:
Edited: 05/25/2005 at 10:08 PM by TwoBills

That edit was 2 1/2 hours before I stated I wasn't going to edit. What, you want to continue the pissing match? I'm up for it.
I'll win, becaue you keep contradicting yourself.

First, you state that unlike me, you won't edit your mistakes in posts. So I look a few posts above and find where you did just that.
So I'm supposed to assume that when you said you didn't edit posts, you meant "as of right now"?
I could say the same thing, then say, "all the other posts I edited don't count, because that was before I decided I wouldn't edit anymore".
But I'm not going to do that. That's what the freaking edit button is for. I don't have a problem with it....just pointed yours out when you started acting like there was something wrong with it.
Edit: BTW, I'm done with this portion of the thread. The results of this part of the discussion are plain to see for anyone, and deserve no further posts. If you want to continue to try to convince me about shocks helping hydroplaning, or the other things I pointed out that you were wrong on and you've conveniently ignored, feel free.
 

TwoBills

Senior member
Apr 11, 2004
734
0
76
Originally posted by: Pacfanweb
Originally posted by: TwoBills
Hah, forgot about that post. Hm, didn't even get a response.
But I reread my 2nd op, and you all know damn well which one I was talking about. OK, OK. I didn't state my case for shocks properly. Of course tires are important, and unlike some people, not you pacfanweb, I'm not going to edit it to make it look right. But I do withdraw that statement I made: "This doesn't really have much to do with your tires". What idot said that? Good tires and good shocks. Bread & butter. The rest stands.
The rest stands?
The stuff about ignoring manufacturer's tire pressure specs? Speeding up if you have a blowout? Cars never needing alignment unless in an accident? Most alignments will do nothing or make it worse?
Okay, if you want to think that, that's fine. You're still wrong, but feel free.

BTW, I generally edit for spelling, and I don't see a problem with it. If I re-read something I wrote, and don't like it, I will fix it. Don't know why some folks are such asshats about editing. That's what it's for. Otherwise, you'll get folks that keep quoting your botched statement or whatever was wrong, before they scroll down and see another post where you corrected it.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yeah, the rest stands. I'm going to take them one at a time. If you care to jump in there, be my guest. First point is a couple posts back.

If I edited my original statement, then this thread would be even more impossible to follow. Some posters on here have a habit of making a statement and when they're called on it they go back and change it, then deny they ever said it.
 

Pacfanweb

Lifer
Jan 2, 2000
13,149
57
91
Originally posted by: TwoBills
Originally posted by: Pacfanweb
Originally posted by: TwoBills
Hah, forgot about that post. Hm, didn't even get a response.
But I reread my 2nd op, and you all know damn well which one I was talking about. OK, OK. I didn't state my case for shocks properly. Of course tires are important, and unlike some people, not you pacfanweb, I'm not going to edit it to make it look right. But I do withdraw that statement I made: "This doesn't really have much to do with your tires". What idot said that? Good tires and good shocks. Bread & butter. The rest stands.
The rest stands?
The stuff about ignoring manufacturer's tire pressure specs? Speeding up if you have a blowout? Cars never needing alignment unless in an accident? Most alignments will do nothing or make it worse?
Okay, if you want to think that, that's fine. You're still wrong, but feel free.

BTW, I generally edit for spelling, and I don't see a problem with it. If I re-read something I wrote, and don't like it, I will fix it. Don't know why some folks are such asshats about editing. That's what it's for. Otherwise, you'll get folks that keep quoting your botched statement or whatever was wrong, before they scroll down and see another post where you corrected it.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yeah, the rest stands. I'm going to take them one at a time. If you care to jump in there, be my guest. First point is a couple posts back.

If I edited my original statement, then this thread would be even more impossible to follow. Some posters on here have a habit of making a statement and when they're called on it they go back and change it, then deny they ever said it.
I've seen that before. I don't do it. If someone busts me on a mistake, I may or may not correct it, but if I do, I'll note the edit. If I am correcting something I see after reading the post, I might not make a not, I'll just edit the spelling or whatever it is.
 

TwoBills

Senior member
Apr 11, 2004
734
0
76
Originally posted by: Pacfanweb
Originally posted by: TwoBills
Originally posted by: Pacfanweb
Originally posted by: TwoBills
and unlike some people, not you pacfanweb, I'm not going to edit it to make it look right.
From a few posts above this:
Edited: 05/25/2005 at 10:08 PM by TwoBills

That edit was 2 1/2 hours before I stated I wasn't going to edit. What, you want to continue the pissing match? I'm up for it.
I'll win, becaue you keep contradicting yourself.

First, you state that unlike me, you won't edit your mistakes in posts. So I look a few posts above and find where you did just that.
So I'm supposed to assume that when you said you didn't edit posts, you meant "as of right now"?
I could say the same thing, then say, "all the other posts I edited don't count, because that was before I decided I wouldn't edit anymore".
But I'm not going to do that. That's what the freaking edit button is for. I don't have a problem with it....just pointed yours out when you started acting like there was something wrong with it.
Edit: BTW, I'm done with this portion of the thread. The results of this part of the discussion are plain to see for anyone, and deserve no further posts. If you want to continue to try to convince me about shocks helping hydroplaning, or the other things I pointed out that you were wrong on and you've conveniently ignored, feel free.

I think you've just got a little reading comprehension problem there, I'm done w/you. You win the typing contest.
 

TwoBills

Senior member
Apr 11, 2004
734
0
76
Originally posted by: Pacfanweb
Originally posted by: TwoBills
Originally posted by: TwoBills
OK, let's see if I can bottom line this thread. Hm, hydroplaning, inflation pressure, alignment, rotations, front/rear w/the new tires, dry rot, oversteer/understeer w/a blowout. I think that'll cover it.

Hydroplaning: This doesn't really have much to do w/your tires. If your hydroplaning at all, except when you're pushin' it, you need a set of shocks. Good shocks/struts. Not the cheap crap.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ok, let's start over. There's the first point I made. Hm, I reread it. What a load of crap. Did I write that? Jeez.

Let me see if I can show you where I'm coming from. 1988, my truck's about 2 years old. Haven't done anything to it except oil changes and air filters. I watch my air pressure and tire wear, close. I've got 45K on my vehicle and about 5K left on the original tires. Put a new set of shocks (Grande 60's) on it.

I was crusin' down I-270 in the rain one night, 70 - 75 mph. Truck feels good, under control, highway a bit flooded. As I pass other small pu's I notice about half of them pull out and try to stay with me. They all pull back within a half mile. I'm thinkin' what the hell are they doing? Then it hit me. Those shocks are keepin' me strapped down. They're floatin'. Heh, heh. Never did hydroplane that night.

That's why I said that shocks were more important than tires. Now that I reread it, I realize what a stupid sounding statement that was. Even thou I still beleive it, I'm not going to try to sell you guys on it. But when I feel a little hydroplaning going on, I hope you guys don't mind if I slap a new set of Bilsteins on my truck.
I can see why that might have made you think that about shocks, but did you ever think that the trucks that couldn't keep up with you might have had worse tires than you, or simply weren't comfortable running that fast in the rain? Plus, you don't know that your truck wouldn't have performed the same under those conditions without the new shocks, from what I read there.
But sure, feel free to put shocks on every time you feel a bit of hydroplaning. I'm sure the manufacturers will thank you.

Well, I only had 5K left on my tires, so I'd hate to see the tires on the other trucks. And by pulling in the fast lane to pace me, well, I figure they wanted to run or they wouldn't of made the move in the first place.
I see your point thou, but that was 1988, 350K miles ago. When there's water on the road, these days, I try to force a hydroplane, and if it becomes excessive then I slap a new set of shocks on it, about every 60 or 70 K. Good shocks, not crap. Always takes care of it.
 

Pacfanweb

Lifer
Jan 2, 2000
13,149
57
91
Originally posted by: TwoBills
Originally posted by: Jeff7181
So who won? :D

pacfanweb. Hands down the best typist. :) Better at manipulating these threads, too.
Don't know why you say that, except that it's a great way of changing a topic that you're getting your ass handed to you in.
That's what lots of folks do when they have no answer for things others have pointed out that they disagree with.
And I'm not sure what you meant by my having a "reading comprehension problem" a couple of posts above, either.
I didn't miscomprehend anything. I quoted you directly in this thread, and the quotes were not out of context. I haven't manipulated anything. All I've done is respond to YOUR words that YOU typed.
If that's miscomprehension, or manipulating a thread, so be it. Guilty as charged.
Later.
 

TwoBills

Senior member
Apr 11, 2004
734
0
76
Originally posted by: TwoBills
OK, let's see if I can bottom line this thread. Hm, hydroplaning, inflation pressure, alignment, rotations, front/rear w/the new tires, dry rot, oversteer/understeer w/a blowout. I think that'll cover it.


Inflation pressure: Inflate 'em until they wear even. Forget max sidewall pressure and the door sticker. Go by the tire wear. Nothing else.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Not to change the subject, but here's point #2. Now, does anybody want to tell me why that statement is wrong?
If you go by the tire wear, just exactly why do you need manufacturer's door stickers? Maybe as a starting point, until you find that your tires are wearing on the outer edges. Max sidewall pressure, same thing, as long as you don't exceed the max by more than a few pounds, what's the problem?

When your tires are wearing even, then you've got maximum patch on the road. That's the idea, right?
 

Pacfanweb

Lifer
Jan 2, 2000
13,149
57
91
Originally posted by: TwoBills
Originally posted by: TwoBills
OK, let's see if I can bottom line this thread. Hm, hydroplaning, inflation pressure, alignment, rotations, front/rear w/the new tires, dry rot, oversteer/understeer w/a blowout. I think that'll cover it.


Inflation pressure: Inflate 'em until they wear even. Forget max sidewall pressure and the door sticker. Go by the tire wear. Nothing else.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Not to change the subject, but here's point #2. Now, does anybody want to tell me why that statement is wrong?
If you go by the tire wear, just exactly why do you need manufacturer's door stickers? Maybe as a starting point, until you find that your tires are wearing on the outer edges. Max sidewall pressure, same thing, as long as you don't exceed the max by more than a few pounds, what's the problem?

When your tires are wearing even, then you've got maximum patch on the road. That's the idea, right?
If tire wear was the only thing to be concerned with, you'd be right. However, you also have to be concerned with weight of the car vs. strength of the tire. Not to mention traction.
If the manufacturer recommends 35psi, but your tires wear better at 30psi, for example....you should still run the 35psi.
If your manufacturer recommends 35psi, and the sidewall says max is 40psi....but you find that 45psi wears better.....hell no, don't run them that high.
Reasons?
1. Safety. The max is there for a reason. They aren't designed to run pressures that high, just like they're not designed to run with 20psi, either.

2. Safety again. Tires have LESS traction with very high pressure. They need to be able to flex some, and the recommended pressures take this into account. You will have a worse-handling vehicle the higher the pressure.
3. Ride. It will ride terribly rough the higher the pressure. 5lbs makes a big difference.
Granted, that's not a safety issue, but your kidneys won't agree. ;)

Edited....there was no #4, just forgot to erase it.
 

mitaiwan82

Platinum Member
Nov 29, 2000
2,209
0
0
Originally posted by: TwoBills
Originally posted by: Pacfanweb
Originally posted by: TwoBills
Originally posted by: TwoBills
OK, let's see if I can bottom line this thread. Hm, hydroplaning, inflation pressure, alignment, rotations, front/rear w/the new tires, dry rot, oversteer/understeer w/a blowout. I think that'll cover it.

Hydroplaning: This doesn't really have much to do w/your tires. If your hydroplaning at all, except when you're pushin' it, you need a set of shocks. Good shocks/struts. Not the cheap crap.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ok, let's start over. There's the first point I made. Hm, I reread it. What a load of crap. Did I write that? Jeez.

Let me see if I can show you where I'm coming from. 1988, my truck's about 2 years old. Haven't done anything to it except oil changes and air filters. I watch my air pressure and tire wear, close. I've got 45K on my vehicle and about 5K left on the original tires. Put a new set of shocks (Grande 60's) on it.

I was crusin' down I-270 in the rain one night, 70 - 75 mph. Truck feels good, under control, highway a bit flooded. As I pass other small pu's I notice about half of them pull out and try to stay with me. They all pull back within a half mile. I'm thinkin' what the hell are they doing? Then it hit me. Those shocks are keepin' me strapped down. They're floatin'. Heh, heh. Never did hydroplane that night.

That's why I said that shocks were more important than tires. Now that I reread it, I realize what a stupid sounding statement that was. Even thou I still beleive it, I'm not going to try to sell you guys on it. But when I feel a little hydroplaning going on, I hope you guys don't mind if I slap a new set of Bilsteins on my truck.
I can see why that might have made you think that about shocks, but did you ever think that the trucks that couldn't keep up with you might have had worse tires than you, or simply weren't comfortable running that fast in the rain? Plus, you don't know that your truck wouldn't have performed the same under those conditions without the new shocks, from what I read there.
But sure, feel free to put shocks on every time you feel a bit of hydroplaning. I'm sure the manufacturers will thank you.

Well, I only had 5K left on my tires, so I'd hate to see the tires on the other trucks. And by pulling in the fast lane to pace me, well, I figure they wanted to run or they wouldn't of made the move in the first place.
I see your point thou, but that was 1988, 350K miles ago. When there's water on the road, these days, I try to force a hydroplane, and if it becomes excessive then I slap a new set of shocks on it, about every 60 or 70 K. Good shocks, not crap. Always takes care of it.

you both suck at quotes.

wtf does shocks have to do with hydroplaning? I want to see you never replace your tires and just replace the shocks, to see how well your car resists hydroplaning. Please "force" your car to hydroplane more often, but try not to kill anyone in the process - just yourself.

/in before lock

 

TwoBills

Senior member
Apr 11, 2004
734
0
76
Originally posted by: Pacfanweb
Originally posted by: TwoBills
Originally posted by: TwoBills
OK, let's see if I can bottom line this thread. Hm, hydroplaning, inflation pressure, alignment, rotations, front/rear w/the new tires, dry rot, oversteer/understeer w/a blowout. I think that'll cover it.


Inflation pressure: Inflate 'em until they wear even. Forget max sidewall pressure and the door sticker. Go by the tire wear. Nothing else.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Not to change the subject, but here's point #2. Now, does anybody want to tell me why that statement is wrong?
If you go by the tire wear, just exactly why do you need manufacturer's door stickers? Maybe as a starting point, until you find that your tires are wearing on the outer edges. Max sidewall pressure, same thing, as long as you don't exceed the max by more than a few pounds, what's the problem?

When your tires are wearing even, then you've got maximum patch on the road. That's the idea, right?
If tire wear was the only thing to be concerned with, you'd be right. However, you also have to be concerned with weight of the car vs. strength of the tire. Not to mention traction.
If the manufacturer recommends 35psi, but your tires wear better at 30psi, for example....you should still run the 35psi.
If your manufacturer recommends 35psi, and the sidewall says max is 40psi....but you find that 45psi wears better.....hell no, don't run them that high.
Reasons?
1. Safety. The max is there for a reason. They aren't designed to run pressures that high, just like they're not designed to run with 20psi, either.

2. Safety again. Tires have LESS traction with very high pressure. They need to be able to flex some, and the recommended pressures take this into account. You will have a worse-handling vehicle the higher the pressure.
3. Ride. It will ride terribly rough the higher the pressure. 5lbs makes a big difference.
Granted, that's not a safety issue, but your kidneys won't agree. ;)

Edited....there was no #4, just forgot to erase it.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Weight of the car vs strength of the tire: This will be reflected in the wear pattern.The strength of the tire (sidewall) is directly related to the weight of the car. Heavier car, stiffer sidewall.

The manufacturer never would recommend 35 when 30 wears better. The car would ride too rough. It's usually the other way around, as I stated. They recommend it to be too soft, for the ride. If the tire wears better at 30, why would you overinflate them to 35, regardless of what the manufacturer states?

As to the max inflation pressure: If the man. recommends 35 and the tire wears better at 45, but the max is 40, then you need different tires. The sidewall isn't stiff enough. In that case, you put some max 44s on it and run it at max.

1, 2, and 3: I still don't see anything that convinces me that you have to pay attention to anything other than the wear pattern. Wear pattern tells you that your tires are neither too soft or too hard. If you need more than the max pressure, then you need stiffer sidewalls, thus, higher max pressure.

So I have to repeat: The wear pattern reflects it all. The man. stickers are generally too soft and if you have to exceed the max sidewall pressure to get even wear, then you need a stiffer tire.
 

Pacfanweb

Lifer
Jan 2, 2000
13,149
57
91
Originally posted by: TwoBills

Weight of the car vs strength of the tire: This will be reflected in the wear pattern.The strength of the tire (sidewall) is directly related to the weight of the car. Heavier car, stiffer sidewall.

The manufacturer never would recommend 35 when 30 wears better. The car would ride too rough. It's usually the other way around, as I stated. They recommend it to be too soft, for the ride. If the tire wears better at 30, why would you overinflate them to 35, regardless of what the manufacturer states?

As to the max inflation pressure: If the man. recommends 35 and the tire wears better at 45, but the max is 40, then you need different tires. The sidewall isn't stiff enough. In that case, you put some max 44s on it and run it at max.

1, 2, and 3: I still don't see anything that convinces me that you have to pay attention to anything other than the wear pattern. Wear pattern tells you that your tires are neither too soft or too hard. If you need more than the max pressure, then you need stiffer sidewalls, thus, higher max pressure.

So I have to repeat: The wear pattern reflects it all. The man. stickers are generally too soft and if you have to exceed the max sidewall pressure to get even wear, then you need a stiffer tire.
Good points, but saying you need a stiffer tire changes the dynamics of your point completely.
Here's how:
1. You say above that if you need above the max. pressure, you need stiffer tires. BUT, if you put stiffer, higher PSI tires on, you're back to the "it rides too rough" problem.....which is exactly why the car maker put the less-stiff tires on in the first place.

Heck, if tire wear is all you're concerned about, just get some trailer-rated tires.....they take over 50psi, and last forever. Won't dry-rot in the sun, even.
Your handling will suck, though. Not much traction.

Example: My wife's Suburban still has factory tires on it. 35k miles. The sticker on the door recommends 30psi. Max psi on the sidewall says 44psi.
So why does Chevy say 30 psi? Because of ride and handling. The max psi is for if you load it down. If I tow my race truck with it, I'll definitely put 40+psi in the rears, no doubt. Because the tire will have an extreme load on it, and will need that pressure to keep from floating around.
But would I ride around with 44psi? No way. It will ride and handle like crap. Will it wear the tire more evenly? Maybe. Maybe not. But even if running the tires at or near the max psi make the tire wear better, it won't be worth it, because of the terrible ride and crappier handling. Not to mention, it wouldn't be as safe, unless you were constantly towing with it.
If the only thing you're worried about is tire wear and don't care about anything else, by all means pump 'em up. But if you're looking at the entire scope of what a tire can do for your car, you're better off around what the maker recommends, even if it costs you a few miles of wear.
 

TwoBills

Senior member
Apr 11, 2004
734
0
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Heh, we can go around and around here. You're making good points, too. In fact, you're making my points, exactly. When I was talking about weight and sidewall, etc. I was thinking about my loaded truck. When you have weight on, or towing, of course you pump em up, but that also improves the tread wear pattern. The more weight, the more psi. The more psi, the more sidewall stiffness and max psi. For a couple of years I was running 44 max. inflated to 50, just to keep the wear pattern even and more importantly, keep the oversteer down. Man, that thing would be loose if I ran 44. Tire guy hated that, but I got away with it.

I keep on talking about the tread wear pattern. I'm not really talking about the maximum mileage you can get out of a tire, I talking about all around proformance. If the tires are wearing even then you have the maximum patch on the ground and as a result the vehicle handles better and is well balanced. This is what you ultimately want. Good point about the ride, thou, it will get a little harsh, thus my obsession with quality shocks.

I still think even tread wear is the way to go. After all, that's kinda what you're doing w/your wife's Suburban when you pump them up to tow. Getting out the oversteer and flattening out the tread pattern. I know your tires are wearing flat, at least until your wife starts complainin' about the ride. :)

What do you think, time to move to the next point? Or start a new thread? We seem to be all alone here.
 

Pacfanweb

Lifer
Jan 2, 2000
13,149
57
91
Originally posted by: TwoBills
What do you think, time to move to the next point? Or start a new thread? We seem to be all alone here.
/crickets chirping

I guess we are at that.