YACT: Timing Belt

Those prices are what I charge.

BTW, is the Vortex inline 4 in the Chevy a interference engine?

Negative, unless it's spinning at redline

 

[bernse]

Originally posted by: Roger
Those prices are what I charge.

Fair enough.

Is it a 4 hour book time job or do you charge true time?

 

Book time.

 

[Blain]

Bon Scott was the man! Brian Johnson is a hack.
Ok... maybe he's not a hack... but he's no Bon Scott!

BTW, Hope that the valves didn't bust up your pistons.

 

[vi edit]

For a Veedub 4 banger...I'd say around $350-$400.

 

I'm on the highway to hell

Ok, stop hijacking the thread

 

[Ornery]

Belts have several advantages over chains, including but not limited to the following ;

Silent

Reduced valve train harmonics

Longer engine bearing life

Reduced engine length

On vehicles equiped with distributors that run off either the camshaft or intermediate shaft, reduced timing fluctuations.

Reduced manufacturing costs and parts replacement

Thanks loads, but I think I'll stick with the low tech chain. Never had to screw with one of them... ever. If that's costing me in MPG or higher initial cost, then fine! That's a no-brainer trade off in my book.

 

[0roo0roo]

had no idea it was that expensive, no wonder my honda dealer sent me a coupon for a free belt change if i payed for labor.

 

had no idea it was that expensive, no wonder my honda dealer sent me a coupon for a free belt change if i payed for labor.

What ?

Free belt change but you have to pay ?

Do you mean a free belt ?

 

[Quixfire]

Originally posted by: Roger

had no idea it was that expensive, no wonder my honda dealer sent me a coupon for a free belt change if i payed for labor.

What ?

Free belt change but you have to pay ?

Do you mean a free belt ?

Most likely it was a Honda Customer Satisfaction program. Honda is very sly about getting around recalls. They offer cost reduced services to by-pass potential recall issues.

 

[MAME]

Thanks for the help guys.
She's a pretty good looking girl, top heavy and all. I don't know if they took that in to consideration when giving her a price but she's been there twice before for previous issues.
She said the total cost came out to be $550. I don't know if the belt broke or not, and I don't know if anything was damaged.
I'll be going with her tomorrow to pick up the car.

Is there anything I should ask them about the car to justify the $550 price? (I don't know too much about cars)

Also, they told her that the oil filter was put on wrong and the engine dripped oil until there wasn't much left and may have caused more engine damage. She had her oil changed about a month ago at Penzoil...are they responsible?

 

[Quixfire]

:camera:

 

[MAME]

Save her $ and she might put up her pic

 

[NutBucket]

Originally posted by: Ornery

Belts have several advantages over chains, including but not limited to the following ;

Silent

Reduced valve train harmonics

Longer engine bearing life

Reduced engine length

On vehicles equiped with distributors that run off either the camshaft or intermediate shaft, reduced timing fluctuations.

Reduced manufacturing costs and parts replacement

Thanks loads, but I think I'll stick with the low tech chain. Never had to screw with one of them... ever. If that's costing me in MPG or higher initial cost, then fine! That's a no-brainer trade off in my book.

Belts jump and break as well. Additionally they stretch. They're not maintenance free either. They're just less likely to snap, that's all.

But yeah, $100/hr for labor seems awfully high. I think the going rate here (SoCal) is about $80/hour at a dealer. Hell, the best Porsche/BMW/Mercedes shop in west la charges $80/hr. Though, I think the local Honda dealer quoted me $1100 to replace the clutch in my Accord (so maybe I'm mistaken on those labor costs).

Btw, Roger; Turns out the problem was I initially put in that rear main dry. I got the seal from my buddy (who's a mechanic) who ordered it from his wholesaler. It came dry and it just didn't click. The seal I got from the dealer came pre-greased. Now, I put in front main "dry" as well, no grease. My buddy, Honda specialist, just had me put some oil on it before putting it on. Doesn't seem to be leaking though (crosses fingers).

bernse, those prices for parts Roger is quoting is from his wholesaler. The parts are as good as OEM if not the same, unlike Autozone/Kragen/Checker/Napa parts. For example, timing belt for my Honda, from a wholesaler, made in Germany by Continental, $6. From a dealer, $60. Waterpump, made in Japan, $20. From a dealer, $100. The parts are the same quality, just wholesale. Doesn't matter much if its for a Honda or a BMW.

 

[MAME]

!

 

[Zenmervolt]

Timing belt on my old Accord was $600+ both times I changed it. The labor needed on a FWD car to change the timing belt is terrible. Engine is shoved in there pretty good.

ZV

 

[Evadman]

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
Timing belt on my old Accord was $600+ both times I changed it. The labor needed on a FWD car to change the timing belt is terrible. Engine is shoved in there pretty good.

ZV

Try changing the plugs on a Northstar FWD caddy.

 

[TechnoKid]

Doesn't VW/Audi use special coolant that'd cost over $5 as well??

 

[Ornery]

"Belts jump and break as well. Additionally they stretch. They're not maintenance free either. They're just less likely to snap, that's all."

When a chain causes trouble it's a surprise, because it's NOT expected. Belts need to be replaced routinely, which sucks. I've only ever owned used cars over the last 30 years, and NEVER had to screw with a timing chain. Most of my cars died of rust, not the engine quitting. Between the expensive CV joints, McPherson struts, and timing belt hoo-ha, I'm having a helluva time figuring out why they're referred to as "economy cars".

 

[Evadman]

Originally posted by: Ornery
"Belts jump and break as well. Additionally they stretch. They're not maintenance free either. They're just less likely to snap, that's all."

When a chain causes trouble it's a surprise, because it's NOT expected. Belts need to be replaced routinely, which sucks. I've only ever owned used cars over the last 30 years, and NEVER had to screw with a timing chain. Most of my cars died of rust, not the engine quitting. Between the expensive CV joints, McPherson struts, and timing belt hoo-ha, I'm having a helluva time figuring out why they're referred to as "economy cars".

Chains get longer over time as they wear. a Quad4 engine has like 15 feet of timing chains. It's nuts.

If you never want to worry about a belt or chain breaking, get a gear driven timing set. Nothing like good old fashoned straight cut gear whine.

 

[Ornery]

I happen to know those gear drives beat the sh|t out of the valve train. I don't care if the chain stretches or the engine isn't perfectly timed. Even well worn V8s still have plenty of torque and run fairly smooth. I'll take sloppy brute strength over a finicky hyper engine any day.

 

[Evadman]

Originally posted by: Ornery
I happen to know those gear drives beat the sh|t out of the valve train. I don't care if the chain stretches or the engine isn't perfectly timed. Even well worn V8s still have plenty of torque and run fairly smooth. I'll take sloppy brute strength over a finicky hyper engine any day.

And so would I. I would never put a gear driven set on anything but a racing motor. I just felt like arguing because it is fun

 

[MAME]

Yes that's great and all but is there anything I should ask the dealer when I pick up the car tomorrow?

 

[Evadman]

Originally posted by: MAME
Yes that's great and all but is there anything I should ask the dealer when I pick up the car tomorrow?

ask him for your old belt.

 

[Ornery]

Not me, I'm too laid back to argue.

Speaking of nice beefy engines, my wife is making noise about getting a minivan again! :Q If I ever buy one of those, it will be my first vehicle that isn't a V8. A gal she works with just bought an Explorer, and she says she had more room in her minivan. I don't doubt it, but I'd be pushing for the Expedition instead. She had her way when she saddled me with this damn conversion van against my wishes. Things a pain in the ass to work on. I ain't buying a freakin' minivan, damn it!


Edit: anything I should ask the dealer when I pick up the car tomorrow?

Man, it's a shame she went to a dealer. Have him list exactly what was done. Not much you can do now, but I don't think you want to know how much cheaper it could have been done.

I'm curious about that oil filter. Have him put that in writing, for when you talk to the oil change geniuses.