Evadman
Administrator Emeritus<br>Elite Member
- Feb 18, 2001
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That is on caliper disassembly and cleaning for lubrication, mainly the rubber seals; not the rotor. All alexjohnson16 is doing is a pad & rotor replacement, not a caliper rebuild. During the rebuild process, the seals must be lubricated with brake fluid so that the act of inserting them back in the caliper does not nick the seal. A nicked seal will cause brake fluid loss.
Should I scan the previous page for you that details removing all the parts (retainers, shims,etc.) he will be removing which leads up to the "clean all metal parts with brake fluid"?
Edit: Also that has nothing to do with the seals other than not using solvents that may damage them. It is just cleaning.
Edit 2: We are not talking about the rotor which has already been said can be washed off with water.
Evadman
Administrator Emeritus<br>Elite Member
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You do not clean the rotors with brake fluid. One of the reasons you use brake cleaner is to remove any brake fluid fingerprints from the rotor surface. If that book says to clean the rotor with brake fluid, that book is incorrect.
I didn't say to clean the rotors with fluid. He asked what to clean the brake parts with. Rotors just get washed. You can cleanse them with fluid though. Just has to be washed after. What would be the point.
Jeff7181
Lifer
- Aug 21, 2002
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Bah... just use some good synthetic oil to clean the rotors... make sure to soak the pads in it overnight too. :roll: (if you didn't catch on... that was a joke... don't do that)
Brake clean is like $3 a can and is more than enough for a complete brake job... get it, do it right. (it also works well for cleaning up small oil drips/spills on concrete... just soak the oil spot with brake clean and soak it up with a very absorbant paper towel)
Also compress the caliper piston(s) BEFORE taking the caliper off and putting the new rotor or pads on. If you don't, chances are you won't get the caliper, even with the old pads, onto the rotor and you'll end up rigging something up to compress the piston with the caliper in your hand. Also check the brake fluid level... if it's been topped off, take some out with a turkey baster type thing otherwise you'll have brake fluid overflowing all over the place when you compress the caliper piston... and brake fluid cleans paint off metal very well.
Brake clean is like $3 a can and is more than enough for a complete brake job... get it, do it right. (it also works well for cleaning up small oil drips/spills on concrete... just soak the oil spot with brake clean and soak it up with a very absorbant paper towel)
Also compress the caliper piston(s) BEFORE taking the caliper off and putting the new rotor or pads on. If you don't, chances are you won't get the caliper, even with the old pads, onto the rotor and you'll end up rigging something up to compress the piston with the caliper in your hand. Also check the brake fluid level... if it's been topped off, take some out with a turkey baster type thing otherwise you'll have brake fluid overflowing all over the place when you compress the caliper piston... and brake fluid cleans paint off metal very well.
Rotors are washed. Brake Hardware is cleaned with fluid. No need for brake clean. Also the caliper will be flipped up and it will be very easy to compress the piston with a c-clamp. Doesn't really matter when it is done.Originally posted by: Jeff7181
Bah... just use some good synthetic oil to clean the rotors... make sure to soak the pads in it overnight too. :roll: (if you didn't catch on... that was a joke... don't do that)
Brake clean is like $3 a can and is more than enough for a complete brake job... get it, do it right.
Also compress the caliper piston(s) BEFORE putting the new rotor on. If you don't, chances are you won't get the caliper, even with the old pads, onto the rotor and you'll end up rigging something up to compress the piston with the caliper in your hand. Also check the brake fluid level... if it's been topped off, take some out with a turkey baster type thing otherwise you'll have brake fluid overflowing all over the place when you compress the caliper piston... and brake fluid cleans paint off metal very well.
Jeff7181
Lifer
- Aug 21, 2002
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Originally posted by: QuitBanningMe
Rotors are washed. Brake Hardware is cleaned with fluid. No need for brake clean. Also the caliper will be flipped up and it will be very easy to compress the piston with a c-clamp.Originally posted by: Jeff7181
Bah... just use some good synthetic oil to clean the rotors... make sure to soak the pads in it overnight too. :roll: (if you didn't catch on... that was a joke... don't do that)
Brake clean is like $3 a can and is more than enough for a complete brake job... get it, do it right.
Also compress the caliper piston(s) BEFORE putting the new rotor on. If you don't, chances are you won't get the caliper, even with the old pads, onto the rotor and you'll end up rigging something up to compress the piston with the caliper in your hand. Also check the brake fluid level... if it's been topped off, take some out with a turkey baster type thing otherwise you'll have brake fluid overflowing all over the place when you compress the caliper piston... and brake fluid cleans paint off metal very well.
You're right... OP... save $3 on your $80 brake job and half ass it.
Originally posted by: Jeff7181
Originally posted by: QuitBanningMe
Rotors are washed. Brake Hardware is cleaned with fluid. No need for brake clean. Also the caliper will be flipped up and it will be very easy to compress the piston with a c-clamp.Originally posted by: Jeff7181
Bah... just use some good synthetic oil to clean the rotors... make sure to soak the pads in it overnight too. :roll: (if you didn't catch on... that was a joke... don't do that)
Brake clean is like $3 a can and is more than enough for a complete brake job... get it, do it right.
Also compress the caliper piston(s) BEFORE putting the new rotor on. If you don't, chances are you won't get the caliper, even with the old pads, onto the rotor and you'll end up rigging something up to compress the piston with the caliper in your hand. Also check the brake fluid level... if it's been topped off, take some out with a turkey baster type thing otherwise you'll have brake fluid overflowing all over the place when you compress the caliper piston... and brake fluid cleans paint off metal very well.
You're right... OP... save $3 on your $80 brake job and half ass it.
How is that halfass? The same thing is accomplished.
Use stands to support the car...not the flimsy jack that comes with the car.
Edit: Don't worry about washing the hydraulic components in brake fluid. That isn't necessary unless you are disassembling the entire brake - i.e. removing the line/replacing caliper, etc. and even then it isn't necessary. Just get a $1 can of Brake cleaner at Autozone, spray the bajeebus out of it before you start and when you're done. Be sure to catch the cleaner with a pan of some sort as well...that stuff is toxic.
Jeff7181
Lifer
- Aug 21, 2002
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Originally posted by: QuitBanningMe
Originally posted by: Jeff7181
Originally posted by: QuitBanningMe
Rotors are washed. Brake Hardware is cleaned with fluid. No need for brake clean. Also the caliper will be flipped up and it will be very easy to compress the piston with a c-clamp.Originally posted by: Jeff7181
Bah... just use some good synthetic oil to clean the rotors... make sure to soak the pads in it overnight too. :roll: (if you didn't catch on... that was a joke... don't do that)
Brake clean is like $3 a can and is more than enough for a complete brake job... get it, do it right.
Also compress the caliper piston(s) BEFORE putting the new rotor on. If you don't, chances are you won't get the caliper, even with the old pads, onto the rotor and you'll end up rigging something up to compress the piston with the caliper in your hand. Also check the brake fluid level... if it's been topped off, take some out with a turkey baster type thing otherwise you'll have brake fluid overflowing all over the place when you compress the caliper piston... and brake fluid cleans paint off metal very well.
You're right... OP... save $3 on your $80 brake job and half ass it.
How is that halfass? The same thing is accomplished.
No... it's not... brake clean cleans petroleum products off the surface AND completely evaporates. Nothing else does that except alcohol, and brake clean is much more effective.
*EDIT* Rotors should be washed to remove debris (ESPECIALLY after machining) and THEN cleaned with brake clean as a final step after installation.
Originally posted by: Jeff7181
Originally posted by: QuitBanningMe
Originally posted by: Jeff7181
Originally posted by: QuitBanningMe
Rotors are washed. Brake Hardware is cleaned with fluid. No need for brake clean. Also the caliper will be flipped up and it will be very easy to compress the piston with a c-clamp.Originally posted by: Jeff7181
Bah... just use some good synthetic oil to clean the rotors... make sure to soak the pads in it overnight too. :roll: (if you didn't catch on... that was a joke... don't do that)
Brake clean is like $3 a can and is more than enough for a complete brake job... get it, do it right.
Also compress the caliper piston(s) BEFORE putting the new rotor on. If you don't, chances are you won't get the caliper, even with the old pads, onto the rotor and you'll end up rigging something up to compress the piston with the caliper in your hand. Also check the brake fluid level... if it's been topped off, take some out with a turkey baster type thing otherwise you'll have brake fluid overflowing all over the place when you compress the caliper piston... and brake fluid cleans paint off metal very well.
You're right... OP... save $3 on your $80 brake job and half ass it.
How is that halfass? The same thing is accomplished.
No... it's not... brake clean cleans petroleum products off the surface AND completely evaporates. Nothing else does that except alcohol, and brake clean is much more effective.
I've been cleaning rotors with soap (dawn) and water for years. The brake harware can use the coating.
I've found that it isn't very effective to remachine rotors, especially on a domestic like this where cheap Chinese-steel rotors can be found for around $20-25. Machined rotors are never as smooth as the factory and in my experience have warped/rusted faster.
Evadman
Administrator Emeritus<br>Elite Member
- Feb 18, 2001
- 30,990
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Do you read what you post? Do you read what you scan to try to prove Fingers and myself wrong. You even called Fingers a noob. You said to clean the rotors with brake fluid not once, but twice. You even tried to post a scan of a manual that says to clean the caliper piston seals with brake cleaner during a rebuild, which no one ever brought up, trying to use it as evidence for your argument.
I can understand selectively reading other people's posts, but your own? You really need to get some sleep. These late nights do not agree with you at all. You appear to be having serious lapses in reading comprehension and judgement. I suggest that you get some sleep before you embarass yourself further.
Machined rotors will handle less abuse then rotors that are not machined because they are thicker, and have more mass to disapate heat. In point of fact, a smooth rotor is not conductive to pad brake-in. there is a sweet spot for the surfact texture of a rotor. A properly machined rotor should have the same surface as a straight from the factory rotor. It is possible that whoever was maching rotors for you was never doing the final cut, only the rough cut.
I totally agree with you that machining rotors is generally not worth the hassle. Getting a rotor machined costs around $10, while a new one can be had from $17. (That's how much they were for my Suzuki) What is the point of saving $14? The peace of mind is worth may more than $14.
Jeff7181
Lifer
- Aug 21, 2002
- 18,368
- 11
- 81
Of course. If you can get new rotors for $40 each, it's not worth paying someone $20 to turn your's. But sometimes rotors aren't that cheap, which is why I'm saying... if you have freshly machined rotors it's especially important to wash them with soap to remove debris.
Read my posts again.
Use brake fluid to clean parts and yes you need to clean the new rotors off (the "substance" keeps them from rusting").
Also the manual says to clean all metal parts. This inclusdes shims, mounting bracket, retainers, etc.
Please tell me why you would buy brake clean?
Edit: added some bold.
Edit 2: To be honest I didn't see this part "brake fluid on them"
Jeff7181
Lifer
- Aug 21, 2002
- 18,368
- 11
- 81
Very true. Not only do the rotors need to be turned, you have to put a "cross-hatched" finish on them, just like honing cylinder bores in an engine. If you don't do that, the surface of the rotor has a pattern in it similar to a record. And the pads will follow those grooves just like a needle on a record player... you'll get chattering from the pads as they'll be trying to slide across the surface of the rotor, then popping back into place. I'll post a picture of a properly surfaced rotor in a sec...
pic
Evadman
Administrator Emeritus<br>Elite Member
- Feb 18, 2001
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You can rinse all rotors with water. If not, you would have to walk to work when it is raining.
Washing a rotor in water will not remove grease and oil, only metal particles missed my the machine shop. Gease and oil repel water. Hint: the WD in WD-40 stands for "Water Displacement Forumla 40." They make this fabulous product called 'Brake Cleaner' that displaces water and will lift off grease, fingerprints, and brake fluid from a rotor.
Washing a rotor in water will not remove grease and oil, only metal particles missed my the machine shop. Gease and oil repel water. Hint: the WD in WD-40 stands for "Water Displacement Forumla 40." They make this fabulous product called 'Brake Cleaner' that displaces water and will lift off grease, fingerprints, and brake fluid from a rotor.
Dawn (in my post) does an excellent job of removing grease and other crap.
As to the manual it is the only one I have here at work. I have dozens at home and will gladly upload more to show you can indeed clean hardware with fluid.
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