YACT: Replacing pads and rotors...

[alexjohnson16]

Going to replace my front pads and rotors tomorrow with help of a friend...

Car is a 95 Mazda Protege...

Going to buy a Haynes manual and he attends an auto tech school in Wyoming, but hasn't gone over pads yet...

Anything I should know about beforehand that could cause problems???

TIA...

 

[yoda291]

Did anyone else read the thread title and have a really dirty thought?

 

[Pepsi90919]

Originally posted by: yoda291
Did anyone else read the thread title and have a really dirty thought?

no...

 

[alexjohnson16]

Bump for car gods...

 

[Kalvin00]

Shouldn't be too tough. But then again, I don't know very much.

 

[Tylanner]

Where is George Foreman when you need him?????

 

[CombatChuk]

On my old 323 and my fiancee's Protege. You didn't even need to take the caliper off. There was an opening on the top, you pop off the retention wire and remove the two pins, retract the piston and the pads come off.

 

[QuitBanningMe]

Pull wheel
remove caliper retaining bolts and brake line retainer clips
Remove caliper/ tie it out of way/ do not disco brake lines
slide off rotor
slide on rotor
replace caliper
remove bottom bolt
swing caliper up
remove pads and shims
remove retainers
clean
grease contact points
Remove master cylinder cap
use clamp to push piston back in bore
replace retainers
replace pads and shims
pull caliper back down
push brake pedal to set brakes
replace master cylinder cap
replace wheel


Edit:generic

 

[QuitBanningMe]

Originally posted by: CombatChuk
On my old 323 and my fiancee's Protege. You didn't even need to take the caliper off. There was an opening on the top, you pop off the retention wire and remove the two pins, retract the piston and the pads come off.

He will need to remove the caliper to replace the rotors. You don't remove the caliper for pads. You just remove a bolt and swing it up.

 

[Evadman]

What ^ Said.

 

[alexjohnson16]

Just wondering... Priced a two sets of pads and two rotors and came up with $80...

Doing it myself because I got quoted $250 for just rotors...

Fvck that...

I'm just hoping I don't break my caliper bolt or something, I had a friend who did that and twas expensive to get it welded back on...

Any other advice/suggestions?

What should I use to clean the parts???

I've also heard I need to clean the new rotors and put brake fluid on them as they come with some kind of oily-substance on them that needs to be taken off??? Is that true???

Thanks for the help guys...

 

[CombatChuk]

Originally posted by: QuitBanningMe

Originally posted by: CombatChuk
On my old 323 and my fiancee's Protege. You didn't even need to take the caliper off. There was an opening on the top, you pop off the retention wire and remove the two pins, retract the piston and the pads come off.

He will need to remove the caliper to replace the rotors. You don't remove the caliper for pads. You just remove a bolt and swing it up.

Shoot, didn't read about replacing the rotor.

 

[OulOat]

It's pretty simple if you follow the Hayes manual. Just remember to wear disposable clothes because it will be very dusty.

 

[QuitBanningMe]

Originally posted by: alexjohnson16
Just wondering... Priced a two sets of pads and two rotors and came up with $80...

Doing it myself because I got quoted $250 for just rotors...

Fvck that...

I'm just hoping I don't break my caliper bolt or something, I had a friend who did that and twas expensive to get it welded back on...

Any other advice/suggestions?

What should I use to clean the parts???

I've also heard I need to clean the new rotors and put brake fluid on them as they come with some kind of oily-substance on them that needs to be taken off??? Is that true???

Thanks for the help guys...

Use brake fluid to clean parts and yes you need to clean the new rotors off (the "substance" keeps them from rusting"). I don't know how your friend broke a bolt. If you are worried buy some penetrating oil and spray the bolts a few minutes before. Just make sure all braking surfaces are clean.
and don't forget to remove the master cylinder cap or you won't get the piston in.
Make sure you have a large c-clamp
don't disconnect brake lines or you will be bleeding the system


Edit: Also make sure you pick up a packet of "brake grease" and apply it to the point shown in the manual. This will keep it from squeeking.

 

[yoda291]

Originally posted by: Pepsi90919

Originally posted by: yoda291
Did anyone else read the thread title and have a really dirty thought?

no...

Where's aquaman, he always has a dirty thought in mind. If anyone else can relate, he can.

 

[SuperSix]

When he says "grease the contat points" make sure you use CALIPER GREASE only. Basically you need to use it on the pins that the caliper slides on. And clean any brake dust buildup off of the slide pins.

 

[QuitBanningMe]

Originally posted by: SuperSix
When he says "grease the contat points" make sure you use CALIPER GREASE only. Basically you need to use it on the pins that the caliper slides on. And clean any brake dust buildup off of the slide pins.

I don't use it on the pins. I use it where the retainers contact the caliper. Whatever the manual says.

 

[Fingers]

Originally posted by: alexjohnson16
Just wondering... Priced a two sets of pads and two rotors and came up with $80...

Doing it myself because I got quoted $250 for just rotors...

Fvck that...

I'm just hoping I don't break my caliper bolt or something, I had a friend who did that and twas expensive to get it welded back on...

Any other advice/suggestions?

What should I use to clean the parts???

I've also heard I need to clean the new rotors and put brake fluid on them as they come with some kind of oily-substance on them that needs to be taken off??? Is that true???

Thanks for the help guys...

brake clean, not brake fluid, a big difference, with some roters you can rinse them with water. It's really not gonna make much of a difference though.

 

[QuitBanningMe]

Originally posted by: Fingers

Originally posted by: alexjohnson16
Just wondering... Priced a two sets of pads and two rotors and came up with $80...

Doing it myself because I got quoted $250 for just rotors...

Fvck that...

I'm just hoping I don't break my caliper bolt or something, I had a friend who did that and twas expensive to get it welded back on...

Any other advice/suggestions?

What should I use to clean the parts???

I've also heard I need to clean the new rotors and put brake fluid on them as they come with some kind of oily-substance on them that needs to be taken off??? Is that true???

Thanks for the help guys...

brake clean, not brake fluid, a big difference, with some roters you can rinse them with water. It's really not gonna make much of a difference though.

uuummmm....no....there is not a big difference. Brake fluid is what to use. Why buy brake clean. Noob.

 

[Evadman]

Originally posted by: QuitBanningMe
uuummmm....no....there is not a big difference. Brake fluid is what to use. Why buy brake clean. Noob.

Brake fluid = Hydralic oil.
Oil = lubricant.
Lubricant on rotor = no stop.
no stop = big dent
big dent = $.

Brake fluid goes in the brake system, not on the brake system. Hydralic oil is a lubricant, and will adversly effect stoping power. If you clean the rotors with brake fluid, you will not be stoping in any quick fashion. In addition, as centripidal force and air currents fling off the excess brake fluid, it will eat the clear coat right off an aluminum wheel, and the paint right off your fender. Brake fluid is caustic stuff.

 

[qaa541]

Originally posted by: QuitBanningMe
Pull wheel
remove caliper retaining bolts and brake line retainer clips
Remove caliper/ tie it out of way/ do not disco brake lines
slide off rotor
slide on rotor
replace caliper
remove bottom bolt
swing caliper up
remove pads and shims
remove retainers
clean
grease contact points
Remove master cylinder cap
use clamp to push piston back in bore
replace retainers
replace pads and shims
pull caliper back down
push brake pedal to set brakes
replace master cylinder cap
replace wheel


Edit:generic

Just to make removing the rotors easier (because they might be rusted in or tight etc.), when I did mine, there were two holes in the rotor that you screwed some body bolts(mine used radiator mounting bolts) into and by turning both slowly going back from one to the other it just popped the rotor off. You should be tightening the bolts a half a turn or so at a time and alternating between the two otherwise the rotor will be jammed in diagonally.

If all else fails or if you dont have the holes in the rotors, or if your rotors bolt holes were as rusted out as mine, just whack it with a 2x4 and a hammer and turn the rotor every few whacks until it comes off.

Hope this helps....

(if you are replacing rear disc brakes read below)
The rear one may be a little tougher to pop off. Make sure to DISengage your e-brake because the e-brake mechanism uses the inside of the rotor to operate as a friction surface.

When replacing the rear discs, you may have to reset your e-brakes via this little spinning adjuster to get the rotor on. You'll see the adjuster on the e-brake system, it's attached to this long nut that spreads apart the e-brake pads.

 

[bigredguy]

gonnna need some c clamps

 

[Evadman]

Originally posted by: qaa541
When replacing the rear discs, you may have to reset your e-brakes via this little spinning adjuster to get the rotor on. You'll see the adjuster on the e-brake system, it's attached to this long nut that spreads apart the e-brake pads.

It is called a Star Wheel Adjuster. Just FYI

 

[QuitBanningMe]

Originally posted by: Evadman

Originally posted by: QuitBanningMe
uuummmm....no....there is not a big difference. Brake fluid is what to use. Why buy brake clean. Noob.

Brake fluid = Hydralic oil.
Oil = lubricant.
Lubricant on rotor = no stop.
no stop = big dent
big dent = $.

Brake fluid goes in the brake system, not on the brake system. Hydralic oil is a lubricant, and will adversly effect stoping power. If you clean the rotors with brake fluid, you will not be stoping in any quick fashion. In addition, as centripidal force and air currents fling off the excess brake fluid, it will eat the clear coat right off an aluminum wheel, and the paint right off your fender. Brake fluid is caustic stuff.

I won't even argue with you. Almost any manual will tell you to use brake cleaner or clean brake fluid.

 

[QuitBanningMe]

Actually I will. Here have some pie.