• We’re currently investigating an issue related to the forum theme and styling that is impacting page layout and visual formatting. The problem has been identified, and we are actively working on a resolution. There is no impact to user data or functionality, this is strictly a front-end display issue. We’ll post an update once the fix has been deployed. Thanks for your patience while we get this sorted.

YACT: How are Midas and/or Meineke shops? Now brake lights don't work!

weirdichi

weirdichi

Diamond Member
I just wanna general consensus and experiences with them. I need to get a muffler and some brakes replaced and I want it done as inexpensive as possible. Thanks!

**EDIT**
Took a 1.5 hours, but the brakes are done. Bought some $40 ceramic brakes, installed, and finished. However, the brake lights don't work. I'm not sure where to look. Can anybody help?

The lights work, but when I step on the brake, the back lights don't light up like a brake light should. They just stay the same as when I turn on the lights. I checked the fuses and the bulbs and they are ok (unless the brake lights use a different bulb than the regular backlight bulbs, which I didn't see). Turn signals work, hazards work, everything works except the brake lights don't light up.

1991 Acura Integra Hatchback Manual Tranny
 
I wouldn't use "midas" and "inexpensive" in the same thread, try some local places they are sure to be less expensive
 
They bring you in with a budget-friendly price, but if you don't want that POS muffler, you end up getting overcharged for a muffler and reamed on labor. Take it to a local repair shop.
 
I've heard a number of stories, like one where my uncle took his van to get new brakes, they said he needed new rotors, calipers, and all kinds of stuff. He borrowed thier micrometer, took a look at the rotors, apparantly the guy misread them.
 
I went to Midas a long time ago. I ended up telling them to take my car down off of the lift so that I could leave. They tried to sell me all kinds of crap I didn't need. A job that started out with an estimate of about $150 turned into several hundred bucks.
I went somewhere else and had the work done for a lot less (didn't need all the stuff they claimed).
I had some work done at Meineke once and they were reasonable. I actually overheard them telling a woman that she didn't need all of the stuff that another place had told her she needed (just the opposit of what Midas did to me).

Of course, it may depend on each individual shop. YMMV


 
I'm thinking of just getting brakes and doing it myself. Save me the labor costs. Like some of you said, YMMV. Thanks for all the inputs!
 
Originally posted by: weirdichi
I'm thinking of just getting brakes and doing it myself. Save me the labor costs. Like some of you said, YMMV. Thanks for all the inputs!
Click to expand...

Careful with brake work, if you havn't done much car work before, you might want to consider that you're very much putting your life in your own hands with brakes.
 
Went to a Meineke to get the muffler and pipe (cat back) replaced on my wife's Sunfire (about 4 years ago, that P.O.S. is gone now) and it took 3 months for them to get it right. They didn't have the right pipes so they tried bending their own to fit and let's just say they didn't fit. That didn't stop them from putting it on though.
 
Meineke is generally decent.

Midas OTOH, are ripoff artists that will play you like a organ. Speaking of organ, you will need to sell a kidney (or two) to pay their outrageous parts prices!
 
Originally posted by: sharkeeper
Meineke is generally decent.

Midas OTOH, are ripoff artists that will play you like a organ. Speaking of organ, you will need to sell a kidney (or two) to pay their outrageous parts prices!
Click to expand...

Of course Meineke are the better of the two, George Foreman would tear them to bits if they fvcked up his car.
 
Originally posted by: EyeMWing
Originally posted by: weirdichi
I'm thinking of just getting brakes and doing it myself. Save me the labor costs. Like some of you said, YMMV. Thanks for all the inputs!
Click to expand...

Careful with brake work, if you havn't done much car work before, you might want to consider that you're very much putting your life in your own hands with brakes.
Click to expand...

Yeah, that's the other side of doing your own work. Local shop gave me $150 quote on brakes, while Midas gave me $90 quote. Local said it's the ceramic factory pads though, as opposed to the Midas cheapo pads. I'll run down there for a free estimate.
 
Looks like today's gonna be a "father and son work on the car day". The pads are complete shot. Now which pads are going to be the better ones? Mettalic disc? Ceramic?
 
Midas blows. I had an exhaust leak on the T/A. They wanted like $800 to replace my entire exhaust system with there house brand "performance" exhaust. I'm thinking If I'm gonna pay $800 I'll go get a hooker cat back or a flowmaster. So i went to a local shop. I left that shop with my original exhaust and a $40 weld job I had a working exhaust.
 
Originally posted by: EyeMWing
Originally posted by: weirdichi
I'm thinking of just getting brakes and doing it myself. Save me the labor costs. Like some of you said, YMMV. Thanks for all the inputs!
Click to expand...

Careful with brake work, if you havn't done much car work before, you might want to consider that you're very much putting your life in your own hands with brakes.
Click to expand...
You have to start somewhere. I often hear "If you've not done it before, I'd take it to a shop." Well heck, how can you learn then?! In reality if you follow a how-to, brakes are very easy and it's incredibly unlikely that you'll do something that would lead to brake failure.
Looks like today's gonna be a "father and son work on the car day". The pads are complete shot. Now which pads are going to be the better ones? Mettalic disc? Ceramic?
Click to expand...
I think ceramic are generally a bit better. I have personally done semi-metallic and organic on my 00 max (I am not sure what OEM is), and the organics are loud as hell and just still not seating properly after a couple thousand miles. I shoulid have done ceramic!

 
Took a 1.5 hours, but the brakes are done. Bought some $40 ceramic brakes, installed, and finished. However, the brake lights don't work. I'm not sure where to look. Can anybody help?
 
Originally posted by: weirdichi
Took a 1.5 hours, but the brakes are done. Bought some $40 ceramic brakes, installed, and finished. However, the brake lights don't work. I'm not sure where to look. Can anybody help?
Click to expand...

the lightbulbs

edit: and how do you know they were working before? did you test them right beforehand?
 
Yes, the lights were working before. I should mention that the backlights work, but when I step on the brakes, they don't light up like brake lights should.
 
Yes 1157's have dual fillies. The brights are for the binders. Check your fusible links, the switch under the pedal. Perhaps the actuator is too low and the pedal travel has been reduced sufficiently that it cannot depress the plunger to activate your stop lights.
 
There is no relationship between anything you could touch underneath a wheel and the circuit that makes the brake lights come on. In my experience the switch is typically depressed under NORMAL circumstances (not touching the brake pedal) and when you push down the pedal that first 1/4" inch, the switch is activated. (in other words, when at rest, the brake pedal shaft is pushed up against the switch trigger.. when you press the brake, the trigger is released and the lights come on)

Don't know how this could have been impacted by a DIY brake job unless you were screwing around under the dash at the same time.
 
Originally posted by: flot
There is no relationship between anything you could touch underneath a wheel and the circuit that makes the brake lights come on. In my experience the switch is typically depressed under NORMAL circumstances (not touching the brake pedal) and when you push down the pedal that first 1/4" inch, the switch is activated. (in other words, when at rest, the brake pedal shaft is pushed up against the switch trigger.. when you press the brake, the trigger is released and the lights come on)

Don't know how this could have been impacted by a DIY brake job unless you were screwing around under the dash at the same time.
Click to expand...

I have no idea either. I didn't think there were any wires even near the brake pads and axle for the brake lights. I'll see if I can call up some mechanic friends.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

TRENDING THREADS

Back
Top