YACT: 05-06 Mustang GT MPG

[fbrdphreak]

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
I tend to be aggressive with the throttle but conservative with the shift points; 60%-80% throttle but shifting at only 2,000 RPM.

Ah, just what I was looking for. That's probly how I'd drive it most of the time

 

[Zenmervolt]

Originally posted by: fbrdphreak
While you're on, what RPM are you cruising at on the highway in 5th? Say 70-80MPH

For my Mustang GT with the 18" wheel option, 2,000 RPM is 70 mph in 5th. The cars with 17" wheels are slightly different, but not much (I think 2,000 RPM = about 65 for them, not sure though).

ZV

 

[Zenmervolt]

Originally posted by: fbrdphreak
Why's that? Does it use a picky airflow sensor?

Very sensitive computer and MAF meter. Most people who tune see better drivability and improved mileage.

EDIT: You will run lean if you just use an intake without a tune. It might not be lean enough to trigger a CEL, but you will run lean.

ZV

 

[fbrdphreak]

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt

Originally posted by: fbrdphreak
Why's that? Does it use a picky airflow sensor?

Very sensitive computer and MAF meter. Most people who tune see better drivability and improved mileage.

ZV

Tune as in use pre-fab'd maps or get into the nitty gritty of tuning it by hand? I have no problem plugging something in and hitting "DOWNLOAD"

 

[AbsolutDealage]

Originally posted by: MasterAndCommander
I have this one in my car: http://www.sbfilters.com/product_display.php?id=130 and it didn't require a tune.

Dyno results that I have seen only give a 1-2 HP gain on any CAI without doing a tune.

OP: I get around 19 (almost exclusive city driving), but I have the 6.

 

[KentState]

Originally posted by: fbrdphreak

Originally posted by: datalink7
I guess that is a lot of highway. I am in the military but live about 20 minutes away from post. And on post the route I take is basically 40mph with very few stops untill I get to my building. I'd think you'd still be able to get 20mpg even with a lot of stop and go. And it takes 87 octane fuel, so you save money there.

That's what I'm hoping for with a Mustang; 87 octane and decent mileage. One might be able to get 20MPG city out of a GTO driving conservatively and even more on the highway thanks to the 6-speed, but it drinks premium. We'll see...

Originally posted by: I Saw OJ
I have an '03 Cobra, its a little bit different beast but with 85% of my driving being highway I get around 19mpg.

I do have some mods done, but just thought I would put in my 2 cents.

Thanks for the info, but I bet that SC sucks some gas

The tank of gas in the GTO I was able to get 16 mpg in 80% stop and go. On the highway, it can easily get high 20s cruising around 75mph. It also can run on 87, but will have "better" performance with premium.

 

[Zenmervolt]

Originally posted by: fbrdphreak

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt

Originally posted by: fbrdphreak
Why's that? Does it use a picky airflow sensor?

Very sensitive computer and MAF meter. Most people who tune see better drivability and improved mileage.

ZV

Tune as in use pre-fab'd maps or get into the nitty gritty of tuning it by hand? I have no problem plugging something in and hitting "DOWNLOAD"

A hand-held computer that you buy plugs into the OBD-II port and re-flashes the car's ECU. It takes 5 minutes.

ZV

 

[fbrdphreak]

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt

Originally posted by: fbrdphreak

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt

Originally posted by: fbrdphreak
Why's that? Does it use a picky airflow sensor?

Very sensitive computer and MAF meter. Most people who tune see better drivability and improved mileage.

ZV

Tune as in use pre-fab'd maps or get into the nitty gritty of tuning it by hand? I have no problem plugging something in and hitting "DOWNLOAD"

A hand-held computer that you buy plugs into the OBD-II port and re-flashes the car's ECU. It takes 5 minutes.

ZV

Sweet, that's what I was figuring.

 

[Zenmervolt]

Originally posted by: fbrdphreak

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt

Originally posted by: fbrdphreak

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt

Originally posted by: fbrdphreak
Why's that? Does it use a picky airflow sensor?

Very sensitive computer and MAF meter. Most people who tune see better drivability and improved mileage.

ZV

Tune as in use pre-fab'd maps or get into the nitty gritty of tuning it by hand? I have no problem plugging something in and hitting "DOWNLOAD"

A hand-held computer that you buy plugs into the OBD-II port and re-flashes the car's ECU. It takes 5 minutes.

ZV

Sweet, that's what I was figuring.

Ford was pretty conservative with the ECU calibration. People are getting 30+ hp from intakes with a re-flash to a 93 octane tune. Even a re-tune at 87 octane can give you around 20 hp. The hand-held tuners (a professional shop can sell you one with 3 custom tunes) are great to have because they are also OBD-II readers and they can be used to re-calibrate the guages if you change tire sizes or the rear axle ratio.

ZV

 

[Gunslinger08]

Originally posted by: fbrdphreak

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
I tend to be aggressive with the throttle but conservative with the shift points; 60%-80% throttle but shifting at only 2,000 RPM.

Ah, just what I was looking for. That's probly how I'd drive it most of the time

I'm not sure how you'd shift at 2000 while hammering the throttle. You'd be changing gears about every 1/2 second.

 

[fbrdphreak]

Originally posted by: joshsquall

Originally posted by: fbrdphreak

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
I tend to be aggressive with the throttle but conservative with the shift points; 60%-80% throttle but shifting at only 2,000 RPM.

Ah, just what I was looking for. That's probly how I'd drive it most of the time

I'm not sure how you'd shift at 2000 while hammering the throttle. You'd be changing gears about every 1/2 second.

If I had to guess, by the time you got to 3rd you'd be at a good place to stay at while cruising in the city? Low enough RPM for fuel conservation but in a low enough gear to pass smoothly?

 

[Gunslinger08]

Originally posted by: fbrdphreak

Originally posted by: joshsquall

Originally posted by: fbrdphreak

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
I tend to be aggressive with the throttle but conservative with the shift points; 60%-80% throttle but shifting at only 2,000 RPM.

Ah, just what I was looking for. That's probly how I'd drive it most of the time

I'm not sure how you'd shift at 2000 while hammering the throttle. You'd be changing gears about every 1/2 second.

If I had to guess, by the time you got to 3rd you'd be at a good place to stay at while cruising in the city? Low enough RPM for fuel conservation but in a low enough gear to pass smoothly?

I literally hit 2000 RPMs at about 5 miles per hour in first gear. Then probably 15 miles per hour in 2nd. You're going to be at/below idle RPMs right after changing. It doesn't seem the most efficient to me. I think 3000 would probably be a better shifting point so that you don't have to open the throttle up as much to raise the RPMs.

 

[fbrdphreak]

Originally posted by: joshsquall

Originally posted by: fbrdphreak

Originally posted by: joshsquall

Originally posted by: fbrdphreak

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
I tend to be aggressive with the throttle but conservative with the shift points; 60%-80% throttle but shifting at only 2,000 RPM.

Ah, just what I was looking for. That's probly how I'd drive it most of the time

I'm not sure how you'd shift at 2000 while hammering the throttle. You'd be changing gears about every 1/2 second.

If I had to guess, by the time you got to 3rd you'd be at a good place to stay at while cruising in the city? Low enough RPM for fuel conservation but in a low enough gear to pass smoothly?

I literally hit 2000 RPMs at about 5 miles per hour in first gear. Then probably 15 miles per hour in 2nd. You're going to be at/below idle RPMs right after changing. It doesn't seem the most efficient to me. I think 3000 would probably be a better shifting point so that you don't have to open the throttle up as much to raise the RPMs.

I see. Yeah makes sense, but my understanding is that most engines are more efficient with greater throttle @ a lower RPM; I'm sure this of course can vary based on exactly how much throttle one is using. I'd be interested to see a list of gear ratios/speeds (like 1st gear tops out at 40MPH, 2nd gear 70MPH, etc etc).

Either way, I'm sure revving to ~2500RPM should be plenty for city driving; I can do that in my 165HP Subaru which has relatively short gearing for an automatic IMO.

 

[Gunslinger08]

Originally posted by: fbrdphreak
I'd be interested to see a list of gear ratios/speeds (like 1st gear tops out at 40MPH, 2nd gear 70MPH, etc etc).

Those are actually pretty accurate. I redline in 1st and 2nd right around those areas. I haven't redlined 3rd yet.. I don't like to do 100+ most of the time.

 

[fbrdphreak]

Originally posted by: joshsquall

Originally posted by: fbrdphreak
I'd be interested to see a list of gear ratios/speeds (like 1st gear tops out at 40MPH, 2nd gear 70MPH, etc etc).

Those are actually pretty accurate. I redline in 1st and 2nd right around those areas. I haven't redlined 3rd yet.. I don't like to do 100+ most of the time.

I asked this before, but what RPM are you cruising at in 5th @ highway speeds? 70-80MPH

 

[Gunslinger08]

Originally posted by: fbrdphreak

Originally posted by: joshsquall

Originally posted by: fbrdphreak
I'd be interested to see a list of gear ratios/speeds (like 1st gear tops out at 40MPH, 2nd gear 70MPH, etc etc).

Those are actually pretty accurate. I redline in 1st and 2nd right around those areas. I haven't redlined 3rd yet.. I don't like to do 100+ most of the time.

I asked this before, but what RPM are you cruising at in 5th @ highway speeds? 70-80MPH

Good question. I can't remember off-hand, but I'll check on the way home.

 

[fbrdphreak]

Originally posted by: joshsquall

Originally posted by: fbrdphreak

Originally posted by: joshsquall

Originally posted by: fbrdphreak
I'd be interested to see a list of gear ratios/speeds (like 1st gear tops out at 40MPH, 2nd gear 70MPH, etc etc).

Those are actually pretty accurate. I redline in 1st and 2nd right around those areas. I haven't redlined 3rd yet.. I don't like to do 100+ most of the time.

I asked this before, but what RPM are you cruising at in 5th @ highway speeds? 70-80MPH

Good question. I can't remember off-hand, but I'll check on the way home.

Thanks for all the info

 

[essasin]

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt

Originally posted by: fbrdphreak

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt

Originally posted by: fbrdphreak

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt

Originally posted by: fbrdphreak
Why's that? Does it use a picky airflow sensor?

Very sensitive computer and MAF meter. Most people who tune see better drivability and improved mileage.

ZV

Tune as in use pre-fab'd maps or get into the nitty gritty of tuning it by hand? I have no problem plugging something in and hitting "DOWNLOAD"

A hand-held computer that you buy plugs into the OBD-II port and re-flashes the car's ECU. It takes 5 minutes.

ZV

Sweet, that's what I was figuring.

Ford was pretty conservative with the ECU calibration. People are getting 30+ hp from intakes with a re-flash to a 93 octane tune. Even a re-tune at 87 octane can give you around 20 hp. The hand-held tuners (a professional shop can sell you one with 3 custom tunes) are great to have because they are also OBD-II readers and they can be used to re-calibrate the guages if you change tire sizes or the rear axle ratio.

ZV

You will not get a 30+ hp from just changing a cold air filter and getting a tune.... that is completely unheard of. Cold air intakes and a tune are a supporting parts...they won't give 30 hp on a stock GT ever. The stock air intake breaths more than enough for a stock engine, so your bottle neck is the engine itself.

Take the 03 04 Terminators....now they have had the most conservative tune in Ford history because they are supercharged and incorporate a limited exhaust and air intake to pass emissions. In this case the air intake and exhaust (support parts) are restricting the engine. In this supercharged setup a cold air intake and a tune may BARELY gets 30 hp out of it. I believe it saw a 20hp difference. This is a full out supercharged engine here...so there is no way a stock GT engine increase 30+hp.

However see a slight increase from changing the upper and lower intake manifold with a tune. But honestly you are wasting your money if you are tuning a stock car...there is really no point. Its like getting a dell and overclocking it and spending the time to tweak out every last bit of 3dmark pt out of it.

 

[Zenmervolt]

Originally posted by: joshsquall

Originally posted by: fbrdphreak

Originally posted by: joshsquall

Originally posted by: fbrdphreak

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
I tend to be aggressive with the throttle but conservative with the shift points; 60%-80% throttle but shifting at only 2,000 RPM.

Ah, just what I was looking for. That's probly how I'd drive it most of the time

I'm not sure how you'd shift at 2000 while hammering the throttle. You'd be changing gears about every 1/2 second.

If I had to guess, by the time you got to 3rd you'd be at a good place to stay at while cruising in the city? Low enough RPM for fuel conservation but in a low enough gear to pass smoothly?

I literally hit 2000 RPMs at about 5 miles per hour in first gear. Then probably 15 miles per hour in 2nd. You're going to be at/below idle RPMs right after changing. It doesn't seem the most efficient to me. I think 3000 would probably be a better shifting point so that you don't have to open the throttle up as much to raise the RPMs.

Yes, I am shifting very often in town. 1st gear is a slight exception and I typically wait until almost 10mph to shift into 2nd.

RPM is far more important to fuel mileage than throttle opening. It is better for mileage to have 80% throttle and 2,000 RPM than it is to have 40% throttle and 3,000 RPM.

25mph is 3rd gear if I know I'm not going to be cruising at it for a long time, 4th gear if there's a long stretch. At 35mph I'm typically in 5th unless I'm accelerating onto a freeway where I might hold 4th up to 45 mph. (Or if I'm going "balls to the wall" when I'll hold the gears to redline. )

ZV

 

[Zenmervolt]

Originally posted by: essasin
You will not get a 30+ hp from just changing a cold air filter and getting a tune.... that is completely unheard of. Cold air intakes and a tune are a supporting parts...they won't give 30 hp on a stock GT ever. The stock air intake breaths more than enough for a stock engine, so your bottle neck is the engine itself.

Take the 03 04 Terminators....now they have had the most conservative tune in Ford history because they are supercharged and incorporate a limited exhaust and air intake to pass emissions. In this case the air intake and exhaust (support parts) are restricting the engine. In this supercharged setup a cold air intake and a tune may BARELY gets 30 hp out of it. I believe it saw a 20hp difference. This is a full out supercharged engine here...so there is no way a stock GT engine increase 30+hp.

However see a slight increase from changing the upper and lower intake manifold with a tune. But honestly you are wasting your money if you are tuning a stock car...there is really no point. Its like getting a dell and overclocking it and spending the time to tweak out every last bit of 3dmark pt out of it.

Then someone faked the dyno sheets I saw, and did a damn fine job of it.

ZV

 

[Gunslinger08]

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt

Originally posted by: joshsquall

Originally posted by: fbrdphreak

Originally posted by: joshsquall

Originally posted by: fbrdphreak

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
I tend to be aggressive with the throttle but conservative with the shift points; 60%-80% throttle but shifting at only 2,000 RPM.

Ah, just what I was looking for. That's probly how I'd drive it most of the time

I'm not sure how you'd shift at 2000 while hammering the throttle. You'd be changing gears about every 1/2 second.

If I had to guess, by the time you got to 3rd you'd be at a good place to stay at while cruising in the city? Low enough RPM for fuel conservation but in a low enough gear to pass smoothly?

I literally hit 2000 RPMs at about 5 miles per hour in first gear. Then probably 15 miles per hour in 2nd. You're going to be at/below idle RPMs right after changing. It doesn't seem the most efficient to me. I think 3000 would probably be a better shifting point so that you don't have to open the throttle up as much to raise the RPMs.

Yes, I am shifting very often in town. 1st gear is a slight exception and I typically wait until almost 10mph to shift into 2nd.

RPM is far more important to fuel mileage than throttle opening. It is better for mileage to have 80% throttle and 2,000 RPM than it is to have 40% throttle and 3,000 RPM.

25mph is 3rd gear if I know I'm not going to be cruising at it for a long time, 4th gear if there's a long stretch. At 35mph I'm typically in 5th unless I'm accelerating onto a freeway where I might hold 4th up to 45 mph. (Or if I'm going "balls to the wall" when I'll hold the gears to redline. )

ZV

Wow. I couldn't stand to drive like that. I need that power on demand, all the time. 25 and in 4th gear would kill me. I'm usually having a hard time deciding between 2nd or 3rd at that point. I guess it saves you some gas and wear on the engine/transmission.

 

[Zenmervolt]

Originally posted by: joshsquall
Wow. I couldn't stand to drive like that. I need that power on demand, all the time. 25 and in 4th gear would kill me. I'm usually having a hard time deciding between 2nd or 3rd at that point. I guess it saves you some gas and wear on the engine/transmission.

In a new Mustang GT? There's plenty of power in 3rd at 25mph. 4th is definitely sluggish, but it's easy to downshift quickly. I tend to keep the engine under 2,500 RPM on the street. No real need for me to run it hard unless I'm at a track.

ZV