WIN10 Video Scheduler Internal Error

[Starbuck1975]

Have a BSOD Video Scheduler Internal Error I can’t seem to resolve.

I am running WIN10 off a free upgrade from WIN7. I still have the WIN7 install disk.

My motherboard has onboard video and I also have an nVidia video card.

The problem first emerged when loading Fortnite. This game in the past created BSOD crashes, usually after a patch, but they would always clear after a reboot.

This time, the game was loading when it crashed and went into a BSOD Video Scheduler Internal Error screen, which I cannot get past at reboot.

When it reboots, I see a black screen with green geometric blocks, then the BSOD message appears, then WIN10 goes into Automatic Repair mode but is unable to repair the problem. It prompts me for Advanced Options. Here is what I’ve done.

Accessed safe mode

Went into WIN under safe mode

Went into Control Panel

There are yellow triangles with exclamation points next to all of my audio drivers.

Updated nVidia drivers

Reboot

Upon reboot I got the Video Scheduler Internal Error again, and followed the same path to access safe mode.

Went into system restore. Decided to restore system to restore point from yesterday.

Rebooted

Upon reboot I got the Video Scheduler Internal Error again, and followed the same path to access safe mode.

Now, I get a black screen when trying to enter safe mode. I can no longer access safe mode.

Reboot and went into bios. Decided to try setting onboard video as default.

Reboot.

Did not receive BSOD error but still went into recovery mode. Unable to access safe mode down this path either.

Is there another way for me to get into safe mode or other things I should try?

 

[RLGL]

Have you got 2 sets of audio drivers loaded? Nvidia package installs audio by default.

 

[Starbuck1975]

Have you got 2 sets of audio drivers loaded? Nvidia package installs audio by default.

When I was still able to get into safe mode, the first thing I did was update my video card drivers. Upon reboot, I saw several nVidia listings for audio devices in the device manager. I tried removing them and rebootiny, and that is when the computer stopped even entering safe mode.

I don’t have a WIN10 install disk handy because I did the free upgrade promotion from WIN7 a few years ago.

I decided to do a clean install of WIN7 just to have an OS to troubleshoot from.

I was able to install WIN7 no problem and can get into the OS. It went through a few reboot cycles of windows updates.

During one of these cycles, it threw me a graphics error blue screen shortly after the bios screen.

I rebooted, went into bios and disabled PCI-E. I also removed my graphics card.

Now I can get back into the OS no problem using onboard video.

Since I am up and running I plan on backing up all my files and also creating a WIN10 install disk. Then I will run some scans on all my drives.

Once I am done with that, I probably need to check if my video card is dead. My computer did make an audible sound that did not sound good as Fortnite was loading. Could a BSOD kill a video card?

Is there a way to check the health of the PCI-E slot or motherboard from within WIN7.

It’s been a long time since I’ve had to troubleshoot hardware. All of my failures for probably the last decade have all been driver related, easily remedied from safe mode.

 

[VirtualLarry]

Sorry to say, but based on the symptoms that you've described, I think that your Nvidia video card is on the way out (failing). I mean, it could be the PCI-E slot, if the board has two slots, try the other one.

It could also be the PSU, sometimes if they get old and stop providing enough power, or proper regulation, they can cause the video card to crash and fail, simply due to power issues with it.

What video card, how old, and what PSU brand / model / wattage, and how old?

 

[Starbuck1975]

Sorry to say, but based on the symptoms that you've described, I think that your Nvidia video card is on the way out (failing). I mean, it could be the PCI-E slot, if the board has two slots, try the other one.

It could also be the PSU, sometimes if they get old and stop providing enough power, or proper regulation, they can cause the video card to crash and fail, simply due to power issues with it.

What video card, how old, and what PSU brand / model / wattage, and how old?

I am up and running on WIN7 with everything but the video card installed, so it would seem its the video card that went. When the video card was still plugged in, I was getting odd static looking artifacts even on the windows install screen.

This is an old build, from 2011. Because I can still run all the games I play at good resolutions, I haven’t really seen the need to upgrade. Unfortunately a new build is not an option right now, so I need to salvage what I can.

Components:
ASRock Z68 PRO3 LGA 1155 MOBO

Mushkin Enhanced Silverline DDR3 (2x4GB)

EVGA GTX 560Ti

Enermax PSU can’t find the wattage but I do remember not skimping on it

Intel x5-2500K

How do you recommend troubleshooting and salvaging the video card?

If that is not possible, what would be a good replacement video card in the $100 range that would work in my system?

 

[VirtualLarry]

salvaging the video card?

Other than "baking it", not much that an end-user can do to salvage it. Other than maybe blow out the dust bunnies, and take the heatsink off and re-paste it, if you suspect that it could be artifacting, due to overheating.

But until you try that card in another PC, or try another video card of similar wattage in your PC, you still haven't ruled out PSU issues.

In fact, if that PSU was purchased in 2011, and run continuously since then, more or less, then it is due for a replacement.

Look on ebay, for an EVGA G1+ 80Plus Gold 650W, 750W, or 850W PSU. (I posted in Hot Deals about these.)

Also, look at EVGA_official's ebay store for deals on video cards. Last time I checked, they have the GTX 1050 3GB for $129.99, not a bad price.

Newegg also has a Gigabyte RX 570 4GB for $139.99 after a $20 MIR.

 

[VirtualLarry]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/EVGA-GeFor...-KR-3GB-GDDR5-ACX-2-0-Single-Fan/263957694144

https://www.ebay.com/itm/EVGA-Super...-10-Year-Warranty-120-GP-0750-X1/263997881387

$130 + $60, and you can take them with you to your next build, if need be. Well worth it IMHO.

 

[Starbuck1975]

Thank you @VirtualLarry. I was due for a GPU upgrade anyway and the 1050 seems like a good step up. The featured review on newegg even suggest it as an upgrade for a 560Ti, which is what I have.

I dont have a spare PC to test with. Do you think its worth taking the GPU somewhere to test it, or should I just swap both the GPU and PSU and call it a day?

 

[VirtualLarry]

If you don't have another easily-accessable PC to test with, then I would just grab both of them. That PSU btw is a significant savings, and the GPU somewhat so.

Edit: Don't wait, those might sell out again.

 

[Starbuck1975]

If you don't have another easily-accessable PC to test with, then I would just grab both of them. That PSU btw is a significant savings, and the GPU somewhat so.

Edit: Don't wait, those might sell out again.

Will do. Plan on ordering this evening.

Here is where things stand:

Removed eVGA GPU, connected to onboard GPU, PSU seems fine.

Clean install of WIN7 from boot disk since I do not have WIN10 media due to my taking advantage of the free WIN10 upgrade. OS is working fine. Running from SSD.

Installed all drivers.

Backed up all files to Onedrive and external drive

Ran Samsung magician on SSD, health is fine. Same with my HDDs.

Ran Windows Security Essentials and Malwarebytes, no hits. I didn’t install, click or otherwise access something before the BSOD that would put me at risk.

This is where things get strange.

I purchased a WIN10 license on USB stick. When I go to do a fresh install of WIN10 from the USB, it throws an error of files missing?

I decided instead to create a boot disk to DVD. Tried to burn the ISO last night and WIN7 gave a burn drive error? Drive is otherwise working and drivers are current.

Should I try to do a web upgrade to WIN10 or go buy a clean USB stick and install the ISO to it?

Or should I just stick to WIN7?

 

[VirtualLarry]

I purchased a WIN10 license on USB stick. When I go to do a fresh install of WIN10 from the USB, it throws an error of files missing?

I decided instead to create a boot disk to DVD. Tried to burn the ISO last night and WIN7 gave a burn drive error? Drive is otherwise working and drivers are current.

Those things CAN indicate a marginal PSU. The installation phase of Windows is fairly CPU and somewhat drive-intensive.

Also, both of those operations involve RAM. Maybe your RAM timings are off, or your RAM is bad.

Try booting a Win7 installer, and hit SPACE or TAB or F6/F7/F8 while it's booting, one of those anyway, to get to the boot-selection menu, that will offer to let you press TAB and Enter, to get to the MS Memory Test feature.

Let that run through and see if it errors.

Edit: Or, maybe it's just... bad USB stick and bad DVD media. Could happen.

Cheapest solution at this point, might be to pop in another DVD, try again a few times, and/or buy another (few?) USB sticks, and use the MS Media Creation Tool to write the Win10 ISO to them.

(Or download the ISO, and use Rufus.)

 

[Starbuck1975]

Those things CAN indicate a marginal PSU. The installation phase of Windows is fairly CPU and somewhat drive-intensive.

Also, both of those operations involve RAM. Maybe your RAM timings are off, or your RAM is bad.

Try booting a Win7 installer, and hit SPACE or TAB or F6/F7/F8 while it's booting, one of those anyway, to get to the boot-selection menu, that will offer to let you press TAB and Enter, to get to the MS Memory Test feature.

Let that run through and see if it errors.

Edit: Or, maybe it's just... bad USB stick and bad DVD media. Could happen.

Cheapest solution at this point, might be to pop in another DVD, try again a few times, and/or buy another (few?) USB sticks, and use the MS Media Creation Tool to write the Win10 ISO to them.

(Or download the ISO, and use Rufus.)

All good to know. Is this memory check the same as running mdsched.exe from start menu?

 

[VirtualLarry]

I've never used "mdsched.exe" before. Could be. Or maybe that's just the stub, that reports the results of the memory diagnostic, when you log in, using Task Scheduler. The name of it makes me think that it's the latter.

 

[mxnerd]

Like what VL has said, PSU could be the cause.

PSU degrades over time and causes system stability problems.

 

[Starbuck1975]

I've never used "mdsched.exe" before. Could be. Or maybe that's just the stub, that reports the results of the memory diagnostic, when you log in, using Task Scheduler. The name of it makes me think that it's the latter.

Like what VL has said, PSU could be the cause.

PSU degrades over time and causes system stability problems.

I am going to order a replacement PSU and GPU. Will test the memory tonight. I found a vendor that is selling the same memory I have now for $40. If I need to also replace the memory, would you recommend using the same brand and type or getting something different?

 

[mxnerd]

Memory usually won't go bad even after long term use, unless its heat spreaders get separated from the memory.

 

[VirtualLarry]

First things first. Both the PSU (see Hot Deals for links, the EVGA G1+ Gold PSUs are going on and off sale, and in and out of stock), and the GPU (if you get a GTX 1050 3GB from EVGA's ebay store, or possible an MSI Gaming X GTX 1050 ti 4GB *refurb* for $150,. from Newegg or or ebay), will be transferable to a new mobo + CPU + RAM combo, _IF_ the mobo turns out to be what's the problem.

So, no real harm in ordering new PSU and GPU.

RAM? Well, if the problem is the PSU, then quite possibly, there might be nothing wrong with the RAM. You could try simply re-seating it, after blowing out the slots. Sometimes RAM sticks just need some TLC after some time being installed.

But if the RAM tests bad, _AFTER_ installing the new PSU and GPU, then... consider replacing it. I don't know if I would go with Mushkin, might just grab a 16GB kit of GSkill, whatever flavor, DDR3-1600 or 1866. (Unless your current Mushkin RAM is faster than 1866. If it's a higher voltage, then it may have fatigued, and maybe replacing it is a good idea. But replace the PSU _FIRST_, and then go from there.)

 

[Starbuck1975]

Memory usually won't go bad even after long term use, unless its heat spreaders get separated from the memory.

First things first. Both the PSU (see Hot Deals for links, the EVGA G1+ Gold PSUs are going on and off sale, and in and out of stock), and the GPU (if you get a GTX 1050 3GB from EVGA's ebay store, or possible an MSI Gaming X GTX 1050 ti 4GB *refurb* for $150,. from Newegg or or ebay), will be transferable to a new mobo + CPU + RAM combo, _IF_ the mobo turns out to be what's the problem.

So, no real harm in ordering new PSU and GPU.

RAM? Well, if the problem is the PSU, then quite possibly, there might be nothing wrong with the RAM. You could try simply re-seating it, after blowing out the slots. Sometimes RAM sticks just need some TLC after some time being installed.

But if the RAM tests bad, _AFTER_ installing the new PSU and GPU, then... consider replacing it. I don't know if I would go with Mushkin, might just grab a 16GB kit of GSkill, whatever flavor, DDR3-1600 or 1866. (Unless your current Mushkin RAM is faster than 1866. If it's a higher voltage, then it may have fatigued, and maybe replacing it is a good idea. But replace the PSU _FIRST_, and then go from there.)

Thanks guys. I ran Windows Memory Diagnostic and it reported no errors. I am ordering the new PSU and GPU and will report back.

 

[Starbuck1975]

First things first. Both the PSU (see Hot Deals for links, the EVGA G1+ Gold PSUs are going on and off sale, and in and out of stock), and the GPU (if you get a GTX 1050 3GB from EVGA's ebay store, or possible an MSI Gaming X GTX 1050 ti 4GB *refurb* for $150,. from Newegg or or ebay), will be transferable to a new mobo + CPU + RAM combo, _IF_ the mobo turns out to be what's the problem.

So, no real harm in ordering new PSU and GPU.

RAM? Well, if the problem is the PSU, then quite possibly, there might be nothing wrong with the RAM. You could try simply re-seating it, after blowing out the slots. Sometimes RAM sticks just need some TLC after some time being installed.

But if the RAM tests bad, _AFTER_ installing the new PSU and GPU, then... consider replacing it. I don't know if I would go with Mushkin, might just grab a 16GB kit of GSkill, whatever flavor, DDR3-1600 or 1866. (Unless your current Mushkin RAM is faster than 1866. If it's a higher voltage, then it may have fatigued, and maybe replacing it is a good idea. But replace the PSU _FIRST_, and then go from there.)

Thank you for the heads up on the eVGA items. I just caught the 1050 GTX SC and SuperNova G3 Gold+ 850W on sale and under rebate.

After rebates, I am looking at about $200 for a nice GPU step up and new PSU!

 

[Starbuck1975]

Memory usually won't go bad even after long term use, unless its heat spreaders get separated from the memory.

First things first. Both the PSU (see Hot Deals for links, the EVGA G1+ Gold PSUs are going on and off sale, and in and out of stock), and the GPU (if you get a GTX 1050 3GB from EVGA's ebay store, or possible an MSI Gaming X GTX 1050 ti 4GB *refurb* for $150,. from Newegg or or ebay), will be transferable to a new mobo + CPU + RAM combo, _IF_ the mobo turns out to be what's the problem.

So, no real harm in ordering new PSU and GPU.

RAM? Well, if the problem is the PSU, then quite possibly, there might be nothing wrong with the RAM. You could try simply re-seating it, after blowing out the slots. Sometimes RAM sticks just need some TLC after some time being installed.

But if the RAM tests bad, _AFTER_ installing the new PSU and GPU, then... consider replacing it. I don't know if I would go with Mushkin, might just grab a 16GB kit of GSkill, whatever flavor, DDR3-1600 or 1866. (Unless your current Mushkin RAM is faster than 1866. If it's a higher voltage, then it may have fatigued, and maybe replacing it is a good idea. But replace the PSU _FIRST_, and then go from there.)

Hi guys, looks like we need to go through another round of troubleshooting.

I did a clean install of WIN10 and got everything working using my onboard GPU.

Put in new PSU and everything works great.

Installed new GPU. On first boot, Windows screen takes a long time to load, all I see is a black screen and a low resolution pointer I can move with my mouse.

Eventually prompts me for password. I get into OS and its at a ridiculously low resolution and performing very slow and unresponsive. If I try to navigate to device manager the OS freezes. I hard reboot and try again and the same thing happened.

Removed GPU and reconnected monitor to onboard GPU and computer works just fine.

Only other anomalies is that my SATA DVD-ROM does not appear under device manager, but works fine and appears if I insert a CD.

Also one of my SATA backup HDDs does not appear in Windows explorer.

Both the DVD-ROM and HDD show up in my bios and under Device Manager but not under Windows Explorer.

Now what should I do?

 

[VirtualLarry]

Installed new GPU. On first boot, Windows screen takes a long time to load, all I see is a black screen and a low resolution pointer I can move with my mouse.

Eventually prompts me for password. I get into OS and its at a ridiculously low resolution and performing very slow and unresponsive. If I try to navigate to device manager the OS freezes. I hard reboot and try again and the same thing happened.

Also one of my SATA backup HDDs does not appear in Windows explorer.

Both the DVD-ROM and HDD show up in my bios and under Device Manager but not under Windows Explorer.

Those things could be connected. How old is the drive in question, and what capacity / brand?

Thing is, older HDDs that are on their way out, can cause pauses, freezing, slowdowns, slow boots, etc.

They can also drop off of Explorer.exe as a drive letter, if they screw up too badly.

What does Event Viewer say? Does it have some Red X with "Disk" listed? I expect that it might.

Edit: If you're doing a fresh install of Windows 10 for troubleshooting, what are you installing it onto (SSD or HDD, new or used), and can you try DISCONNECTING ALL OTHER SATA DRIVES (except for DVD-RW, and OS install drive), and then plug in the GPU? Windows 10 will then do stuff to install drivers automatically over the internet, if you're connected, and haven't disabled that feature using a 3rd-party program.

 

[mxnerd]

Did you plug in the power adapter for your new video card?

Saw that power supply has four 8-pin connectors for video card, try different ones.

If DVD drive / HDD does not function properly, probably the SATA ports are malfunctioning. Like VL said, check Event Viewers.

 

[Starbuck1975]

Those things could be connected. How old is the drive in question, and what capacity / brand?

Thing is, older HDDs that are on their way out, can cause pauses, freezing, slowdowns, slow boots, etc.

They can also drop off of Explorer.exe as a drive letter, if they screw up too badly.

What does Event Viewer say? Does it have some Red X with "Disk" listed? I expect that it might.

Edit: If you're doing a fresh install of Windows 10 for troubleshooting, what are you installing it onto (SSD or HDD, new or used), and can you try DISCONNECTING ALL OTHER SATA DRIVES (except for DVD-RW, and OS install drive), and then plug in the GPU? Windows 10 will then do stuff to install drivers automatically over the internet, if you're connected, and haven't disabled that feature using a 3rd-party program.

Did you plug in the power adapter for your new video card?

Saw that power supply has four 8-pin connectors for video card, try different ones.

If DVD drive / HDD does not function properly, probably the SATA ports are malfunctioning. Like VL said, check Event Viewers.

The GPU does not have any power connectors, I believe by design.

I should clarify. I have a relatively new Samsung SDD as my OS drive. I have two internal Samsung HDDs, one as my primary storage drive and the other as a mirrored backup drive.

I also have an additional older WD HDD. I only recently plugged that one back in. This one shows up in Disk Manager as a foreign drive.

One other new piece of info. I tried rebooting again with the GPU installed and let it sit after logging in. I eventually received an insufficient screen resolution error from the Samsung Magician SSD monitoring software. This is the point where the OS tends to lock up.

I am going to unplug all my SATA drives except boot SSD and uninstall the Samsung software and then try the GPU again. I will also check the event log.

 

[mxnerd]

Since you have BSOD multiple times, have you checked file system using command line chkdsk /f /r and Sfc /scannow?

Also carefully check if the video card is seated well on the slot, sometimes if the PC case open bracket slot is not aligned properly with your video card's bracket,

it could cause the video card not aligned or seated well, and that could cause siganls/power not delivered to the video card properly.

 

[Starbuck1975]

Since you have BSOD multiple times, have you checked file system using command line chkdsk /f /r and Sfc /scannow?

Also carefully check if the video card is seated well on the slot, sometimes if the PC case open bracket slot is not aligned properly with your video card's bracket,

it could cause the video card not aligned or seated well, and that could cause siganls/power not delivered to the video card properly.

After the last BSOD I couldn’t even get into windows via safe mode or a command prompt. I reinstalled windows and have not had a BSOD since.

I scanned my SSD and HHDs after the clean WIN10 install and no reported issues.

My computer is running perfectly since the reinstall if I run off the native graphics on the MOBO. I start to have problems the moment I plug the GPU into the pci-e slot.

If it was a MOBO issue, wouldn’t other things not be working?