Well with my pentium-d running insanely hot with air cooling(70c at stock) I figured what the heck might as well wip out the water cooling. Set everything up outside the case, get it running, make sure everything is flowing smoothly. Seems fine, so I install the water cooling in the case. Start it up, it's running good. Load temps down to 47c with dual instances of prime95. Keep it running for several hours. Go back to check on it, and it's locked up. Temps were still showing at 47c at the time, so I was like what the heck, it didn't overheat. Shut it off, try and turn it back on..nothing, no post. Thinking there might have been a problem with the pump, I hook it up to a power supply outside of the case. Everything seems fine. Leave it that way, power on the comptuer and it comes on. Start running prime95 again. The monitor starts blanking out and coming back, blanking out and coming back. Everything else seems to be ok, the temps are still stable, watching it through remote desktop, which isn't blinking in and out..but the monitor still is. Then another hard lock up. Try and reboot and get no post again. Then I start checking around..and notice to my horror, there is a little bit of coolent on the water block..turns out it was leaking, but only when it was on it's side mounted to the cpu..then I take out the video card..it's covered with coolent.the coolent is green the same as the PCB of the video card, so I hadn't noticed it until I took it out. At this point, seems like the video card, and likely the motherboard are both dead now. If the POS hadn't been running so hot to start with, I wouldn't have even been tempted to use liquid cooling...hopefuly after a few days of drying out, everything will be ok, but I'll be damned if I ever use the water cooling again.
Why water cooling is bad..
- Thread starter stevty2889
- Start date
Man, that stinks. Next time try a 24-hour leak-test prior to actually firing the rig up to make sure there are no leaks.
The thing is that when the water block was sitting flat, it didnt' leak, wasn't until it was on it's side. Hopefuly everything will dry out. I don't know if I am going to try some sealent on the water block, or just get a new block, but the stupid Pentium-D is to hot and loud with air, sounds like a freakin vacuum cleaner just to keep it from throttling. Sure glad I didn't try to water cool my X2.
I did the same thing with my cell phone. If the interior of your case was reasonably clean, and you were using a mineral free coolant, you should be okay.
Basicly all of the coolent that leaked, landed on the video card. It was a pretty slow leak, so it was spread over the video card, but didn't leak to anywhere else in the case. But it could have damaged the motherboard as well, since it obviously affected the video card. I dried it off and I'll let it sit for a few days before I try anything else with it.
The stuff from which pcb's are made (basically fiberglass and resin) isn't particularly permeable to moisture (it will absorb moisture over time as humidity changes). The components themselves may be more or less permeable, but I would think none of them would readily admit liquid. So the main problem comes from the electrical shorts caused while the liquid is present and conductive. If the shorts themselves didn't burn out a component or trace, then I would give a high chance to everything working fine once it dries. Oh yes, someone else mentioned mineral free: if the evaporating liquid leaves conductive mineral deposits, could be bad.
That's too bad, sorry to hear about it. Your PD was definitely a hot one. Mine doesn't break 63C when running S&M though... (stock cooler and very quiet too)
Elfear
Diamond Member
- May 30, 2004
- 7,163
- 819
- 126
Try washing the video card in alcohol to eliminate any deposits that may have formed. Watercooling isn't that bad, you just have to be very careful with it. I have a cheapo PSU that is wired to a switch. I usually install all the components and than use the PSU to just power the pump for a good long leak test. That way nothing else is powered up and susceptible to shorting.
I think the first thing I would do if I started to see any instability after I just installed an H2O system would be to power down and double-check everything. Not trying to be a donk, just reemphasizing the need for hardcore vigilence with watercooling.
Hope everything works for you again OP.
I think the first thing I would do if I started to see any instability after I just installed an H2O system would be to power down and double-check everything. Not trying to be a donk, just reemphasizing the need for hardcore vigilence with watercooling.
Hope everything works for you again OP.
If you got coolant in the agp, or pci slot/s, you will need to dry them out, and clean them as well, I have had a Condensation drip problem before, and have been thru this 
I use 91% Isopropyl Alcohol to clean off anything contaminated, then I use Canned Air to blow out under all the chips on the card/ in the slots/etc. Then I let the problem sit for a Minimum of 24 hours in front of a fan to make sure it's all completely dry, before putting any power to it.
Good luck, and I hope you didn't lose any system parts.
I use 91% Isopropyl Alcohol to clean off anything contaminated, then I use Canned Air to blow out under all the chips on the card/ in the slots/etc. Then I let the problem sit for a Minimum of 24 hours in front of a fan to make sure it's all completely dry, before putting any power to it.
Good luck, and I hope you didn't lose any system parts.
Well, seems I've lucked out. I cleaned the video card with IPA, I re-sealed the water block using some water proof sealent, wrapped it with electrical tape, and leaked checked it for 18 hours with no leaks. Put everything back together, and it booted up. Running stable so far, 10minutes of S&M, running at about 48C.
blckgrffn
Diamond Member
thats what u get with a double pres hot. how much did u oc it? 70C is way to much even for a pos PentD. wait for conroe or even better, by an X2 or FX from good ol amd
The freakin think won't overclock at all, windows won't finish loading at 3.1ghz, even though the temps are still low. Running dual prime95 and looping 3dmark01 it's running at 39c, but won't OC at all. THe asrock motherboard has no voltage options, so I can't increase the vcore to see if thats the problem. Using the water block from the thermaltake bigwater. I think I damaged it when I took it out of my pentium-4 system before, I took it apart to clean it, and think I gave it a slight crack when I put it back together.
Originally posted by: Chode Messiah
thats what u get with a double pres hot. how much did u oc it? 70C is way to much even for a pos PentD. wait for conroe or even better, by an X2 or FX from good ol amd
I've got an X2 see sig..what I want to get next is a dual core Yonah, my dothan 1.6 dothan runs at 2.4 on stock voltage with the dinky heatsink that comes with the CT-479 adaptor, so with a real heatsink I think yonah will have some good OC potential.
Zebo
Elite Member
- Jul 29, 2001
- 39,398
- 19
- 81
Stay away from cheap junk like Thermaltake, buy swiftech, use hose clamps where needed, problem solved. Seriously man I been water cooling two years now multiple rigs never one leak. Biggest problem I had semi-associated with water cooling was using artic epoxy on 5900 ram since HSF was replaced with water block.. Anyway I go to sell, tryed prying off ram sinks and replacing stock HSF and I ripped all the memory off the card.
Well it's basicly my own fault about the leaking water block. When I put the fittings back in I over tourqued them, so it slightly cracked the plastic where they screw in. Put on some sealent and wrapped with electrical tape, and problem solved until I can afford to replace the water block. It's obviously doing it's job, 39c load temp is a lot better than the 70c I was getting with air. It didn't even idle that low with air.
Zebo
Elite Member
- Jul 29, 2001
- 39,398
- 19
- 81
That's only one of the problem with plastic..and why I'd shy away from Danger Den stuff as well (delren/brass top blocks excluded). The main problem is thermal cycleing which will crack over time no matter what, even if you never torqued block at all. There are two things you don't want in loop, aluminum because of glavanic corrosion and any plastics so avoid solutions which incorporate such things. Thermaltake stuff, because it cheap, gives you both.. rad i think is al and plastic blocks.
dont feel bad about the over clocking I couldnt get my pentium d 820 on the top of the line asus P5N32-sli board with ocz gold ram to overclock, It wouldnt post or it would give me overclock failures or it would fail in prime and 3dmark the nforce4 sucks for INTEL and it was a nightmare,,, i RMA all I could and I ebayed the rest ,,,
I have a DFI expert and opt 170 with ballistix z503 that should be here on weds,,,
as for the water cooling you should always run a 24 hour leak test with just jumping the power supply and no power to the board or any devices its just to dangerous,, im glad yo lucked out,,,,
TRENDING THREADS
-
Discussion Zen 5 Speculation (EPYC Turin and Strix Point/Granite Ridge - Ryzen 9000)- Started by DisEnchantment
- Replies: 25K
-
Discussion Intel Meteor, Arrow, Lunar & Panther Lakes Discussion Threads
- Started by Tigerick
- Replies: 21K
-
Discussion Intel current and future Lakes & Rapids thread- Started by TheF34RChannel
- Replies: 23K
-
-
Facebook
Twitter