who is wrenching today?

[[DHT]Osiris]

Weird… I'm not familiar with those older systems. Air vacuum at the master cylinder…?

So there is an air vacuum brake assist behind the cylinder, what I suspect is happening is that there's air bubbles in the cylinder itself, and while the spring and a small amount of fluid is enough to resist the brake while the engine is off, with the added force of the vacuum it just plunges straight to the floor. At least that's what makes the most sense to me right now.

 

[iRONic]

If that brake assist module is made out of metal it might have pin holes or corrosion-induced leaks that's allowing the air to bleed in. Or out, depending on the vacuum being held by engine power.

 

[[DHT]Osiris]

If that brake assist module is made out of metal it might have pin holes or corrosion-induced leaks that's allowing the air to bleed in. Or out, depending on the vacuum being held by engine power.

Well, the issue is the pedal is going to the floor under power (under vacuum), implying that the supply of the vacuum is just fine; there's just no/minimal backwards resistance from the braking system toward the atmospheric pressure/my foot.

If the brake assist had a hole in it, it wouldn't be helping me brake, not the other way around.

 

[[DHT]Osiris]

Well, the issue is the pedal is going to the floor under power (under vacuum), implying that the supply of the vacuum is just fine; there's just no/minimal backwards resistance from the braking system toward the atmospheric pressure/my foot.

If the brake assist had a hole in it, it wouldn't be helping me brake, not the other way around.

Figured it out! Had some air in the master cylinder, I thought I cleared it but it needed another round. The brakes still hit the floor with the vacuum pump running but at least it actually brakes now. Side note, once the engine warms up and the viscosity of the brake fluid lowers, I'm getting some leakage. I'm wondering if a) that'll stop once the back brakes are operational (and the pressure is spread over twice the area) or if I'm going to need to get something on the threading.

 

[herm0016]

oil changes on my buick regal tourX, 01 suburban 8.1L Big Block, and tractor service. pretty easy with fumoto valves on all my vehicles save for the tractor. About 7 gallons of oil total and hyd. fluid. changed the hydraulic filters on the tractor as well. one of the new filters would not seal for anything. I put the old one back on and its fine. Any one else run into this?

the old filters were the OEM ones, and the new is a napa part, but they look the same internally and the seals interchange. It has a drainback valve that helps you not loose all 10 gallons of hyd. oil and its pushed in by screwing the filter on, I am thinking the threads of the new filter are a bit rough on the start and are catching the drain back valve collar. the only way to take that apart is drain the roughly $400 dollars worth of hyd. transmission oil.

 

[Paperdoc]

On an old 2007 Hyundai Accent I have my granddaughter using she ran over a clump of grass that was hiding a rock, and ripped out most of the exhaust pipes. I got two pipes, 2nd cat converter (missing in action) and muffler, then went to my favourite mechanic to have him remove the seized flange bolts that held the front half of the first pipe to the outlet of the combo exhaust manifold/1st cat converter. He found that units' outlet flange had broken off, and the stub of pipe left was 'way too short to try to weld a new one back on. So now I'm waiting for delivery of a new one of those combos, plus the 2nd Oxygen sensor to fit into the first pipe. Replacing literally the entire exhaust system.

Meanwhile my granddaughter was using my 2014 Mazda 3 and it stranded her with multi warning messages, starting with major failure of charging system, pull over and do not drive. With a little thinking I realized the serpentine drive belt had broken off. So I drove over in her noisy car to "rescue". My wife and I drove next day to the stranded Mazda with new belt and tools. But the belt tensioner unit you have to move with a 17mm wrench is in such a bad location you cannot get a socket onto it. I drove around to several stores looking for just the right tool, had to settle for a common 17mm combination wrench. Turned out the tensioner was not too hard to turn with that plus a rod to push it in a tight space. Many wriggles of the belt in tight quarters got it in place and the tensioner released. All good! Now I'm thinking that the related belt that drives the water pump probably is just as weak! To replace that I'll have to remove and re-install that same serpentine belt!

UPDATE
Yesterday my fave mechanic removed the old manifold combo and installed the new one. Fits perfectly and by his skill all stud bolts and nuts survived for re-use. Also saved the old oxygen sensor from the manifold to re-use in addition to the new one needed for the first pipe (between the two cat converters). I installed all the rest of that system (two pipes, 2nd cat and muffler) that day.As advised by my mechanic, today after running the car for errands I re-checked the torque of the manifold nuts while hot and replaced a heat shield and engine top cover. All's quiet on this front now!

 

[manly]

Just FYI, some decent GM, Honda/Acura, or Hyundai/Kia compatible oil filters are $2.75 each:

Purolator PL14006 PurolatorONE Spin On Oil Filter $2.75 - 2025-10-05

PL14006 Purolator One oil filter. This is a common filter that fits many vehicles like Silverado's, Tahoe's, etc. Obviously look up your vehicle, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E8T8

slickdeals.net

 

[Pacfanweb]

Figured it out! Had some air in the master cylinder, I thought I cleared it but it needed another round. The brakes still hit the floor with the vacuum pump running but at least it actually brakes now. Side note, once the engine warms up and the viscosity of the brake fluid lowers, I'm getting some leakage. I'm wondering if a) that'll stop once the back brakes are operational (and the pressure is spread over twice the area) or if I'm going to need to get something on the threading.

Should never need anything on the threads. And brake fluid should never leak, and it won't stop.
As you found out, the vacuum assist is simply an assist. Pedal only goes to the floor if there's something
wrong with the hydraulics. You definitely still have a problem, probably still air in it.

 

[[DHT]Osiris]

Should never need anything on the threads. And brake fluid should never leak, and it won't stop.
As you found out, the vacuum assist is simply an assist. Pedal only goes to the floor if there's something
wrong with the hydraulics. You definitely still have a problem, probably still air in it.

The exceedingly small amount of fluid I'm getting is coming from the bolt itself; the threading and the line running into the tube, and only at the cylinder.

 

[bbhaag]

Swapping out a failed alternator on a 2020 Subie Crosstrek. Pulled it off tonight but nobody locally can get a replacement until tomorrow at the soonest. Even the dealer needed a couple of days and wanted $800 for a new one. Fuck that so I ordered a reman from Napa for around $450.

 

[herm0016]

battery went in the tractor. cleaned all grounds, new terminals, new agm battery.

found some lightly used H2 hummer wheels for the suburban with 285/75/17s on them. for sure the largest tires ill get in there with out a lift, only a little cutting and hammering for clearance.

earlier this year, should be a wheel and flange on that shaft....

sheared the final drive on the tractor, it essentially has portals. shaft and bearings, seals was over $500. replaced and back together with some messing about getting the mesh correct. it's a big reduction gear. I cant imagine what it took to shear a 2 in induction hardened shaft.
Pressing out a bearing with a 3 in 3/4 drive socket at my press tool.

 

[trenchfoot]

Helped my neighbor repair his HT3 Hummer's electrical nightmare. It started to act really weird where it had a random zero start problem, a major parasitic drain issue when cranking or when leaving the key in the run position, the radio would only turn on when the engine is being started and on occasion the key would get stuck in the ignition among other unusual occurrences. Well first thing I reset the ECM and that didn't help. Replaced the passlock sensor, ignition key housing and cylinder because the key practically drops out due to all the other keys on the fob. Ended up pulling both the ECM and BCM and sent them out to get repaired and reprogrammed when I detected a short in the BCM caused by moisture damage. Presently waiting for the BCM to get shipped back and not looking forward to reinstalling it because it's hidden behind a jungle of wiring and connecters in the psngr side kick panel.

 

[Paperdoc]

Almost finished swapping winter tires onto our three cars. On the last of those today I also replaced the rear wheel brake rotors and pads. This is a 2021 Nissan Sentra and the rear rotors only build up rust that does not get scrubbed off in normal driving. I think the original parts may be faulty, so I'm hoping the change will prevent a recurrence.

 

[trenchfoot]

Almost finished swapping winter tires onto our three cars. On the last of those today I also replaced the rear wheel brake rotors and pads. This is a 2021 Nissan Sentra and the rear rotors only build up rust that does not get scrubbed off in normal driving. I think the original parts may be faulty, so I'm hoping the change will prevent a recurrence.

Out of curiosity, were the old pads you took out OEM pads, and what brand of pads did you replace them with? Also, if so equipped, you may have a problem with a proportioning valve in your brake system, where not enough pressure is being delivered to your rear brakes to scrub off the rust buildup. Are your front brake pads wearing a lot faster than the rears that's enough to be a concern? That may be a clue that points to that problem.

 

[Paperdoc]

The rotors and pads I just replaced were the originals. I certainly considered whether the brake system design was under-utilizing the rear brakes. But I would say that the pad wear on the rear was not a lot different from the front. (In doing winter tire swaps for summer each fall (and reverse in spring) I always examine brakes, suspension and rubber boots.) Replacement parts were a house aftermarket brand called Pro Series OE+ sold in Canada by Canadian Tire. I've used them before and they look good to me. We will see how they work out on my son's car.

Interesting added info. My daughter also has virtually the same car (2021 Nissan Sentra 4-door sedan) and it shows exactly the same rear brake issue. She habitually takes it to the dealer for routine preventive maintenance. So far they have recognized bad rear brake rotor rusting and replaced them TWICE in a car 4 years old! Most recently was this spring, and so those brake parts look almost brand new right now. The first time they replaced I asked persistently for an explanation since I already knew that TWO cars were showing this issue.They insisted it was all because the mileage in the car was low and the brakes simply were not being used enough. Well, my son's car has almost twice the mileage (but still low I consider). This was the first time changing his rear brakes, and the rust on the rotors was quite bad. Pads were maybe half consumed both front and back. Front rotors on both cars show no such problem.

Side note mostly unrelated. I just finished today swapping his winter tires onto the front. So now all three cars in our family have their winter tires on, and their windshield washer fluids replaced with the antifreeze variety. I checked and verified the engine block heater on my car is working. (The two Nissans do not have block heaters and have worked well without for the last three winters.) In fact, my grandsons' girlfriend just got a new set of Nokian Hakkapeliitta tires put on her car, and my granddaughter's small car has winter tires, too. Tonight's forecast is for our first snowstorm to hit over the next two days amounting to several inches, so we are just in time!