Which processor for Photoshop/Music? (Haswell vs E, wait for Skylake, etc..)

[ClockHound]

Not having gotten my grubby moddy hands on it, can't claim to have the single best method, so here's a few ideas to achieve postive(ish) pressure:

With Stock fans:

1. Install a 7V adapter on the rear fan, like this Zalman. Or make your own.

Since they appear to be the same model fan on in and the out, running the rear at a lower speed relative to the front might be enough. However, it might not. Can never do enough testing.

1a. Motherboard control. SPCR had trouble getting their MB of choice to spin down the fans with a custom profile. Doesn't mean you will - hence the testing.

2. Disconnect rear fan and install a 2nd pull fan on the CPU cooler. Shroud optional. Since this case has a nice clean, almost straight line airflow and it's relatively small and you're not using a hot GPU, this might do it. More testing pleasure.

Fan Swaps:

Replace the stock rear 140mm with a quiet 120mm. Sadly, we don't know the specs on the stock fans, so would select a low speed <1200rpm unit.

Replace both fans - select a quiet, yet powerful 140mm for the front, like a Noctua NF-P14 PWM or TY-140. Combine with a low rpm 140 or 120, for the rear, like the Noc NF-A14 or A12 - either the ULN or FLX series. Or a NF-S12A PWM. All the Nocs come with low noise adapters so it makes it easier to tweak.

If going the full PWM method, can use a simple splitter like this that takes power from the PSU, but uses the CPU PWM header to control up to 5 fans.

The Nocs are my first pick for PWM control, because they don't click when undervolted unlike most PWM fans. On the cheap, could use the Arctic F12/F14 PWM - altho they have a slight click when running below 100%.

Add a Fan:

You can add intake fans (and noise) - the W1 supports 2 120 or 140s up top. Could install a quiet 120 with good bearings (it's mounted horizontal, so sleeve bearings units need not apply) - Even an arctic F12 or F14 would do - when controlled.

These are the easy first things to experiment with. Achieving positive pressure airflow needs to be approached on a case by case basis. ;-) And that's the fun of it. Tweaking!

With this build you really won't have much heat to dump - no GPU - and the W1 has a very clean airflow design - especially with the drive rack removed. Which would be the first mod I'd make. No pop rivet drilling required. Just a few screws. However, some modding is required to mount the optical drive. Hard drive would be mounted using the elastic method for maximum case decoupling.

And finally, not much positive pressure is required - all the panels pop off, so cleaning is a snap. And it's fairly small, so not much space to clean.

And the other finally, check out Bill Owen's walk-thru, pop-off of the W1 - What a nice little case to work in!

 

[aman74]

Not having gotten my grubby moddy hands on it, can't claim to have the single best method, so here's a few ideas to achieve postive(ish) pressure:

With Stock fans:

1. Install a 7V adapter on the rear fan, like this Zalman. Or make your own.

Since they appear to be the same model fan on in and the out, running the rear at a lower speed relative to the front might be enough. However, it might not. Can never do enough testing.

I searched the SPCR review, but I can't seem to find what they normally run at on low. I was thinking it's already 7V? If that's the case then that wouldn't work as the front would have to be on high.

1a. Motherboard control. SPCR had trouble getting their MB of choice to spin down the fans with a custom profile. Doesn't mean you will - hence the testing.

Yeah, that would be easiest. Unfortunate that the review leaves doubt.

2. Disconnect rear fan and install a 2nd pull fan on the CPU cooler. Shroud optional. Since this case has a nice clean, almost straight line airflow and it's relatively small and you're not using a hot GPU, this might do it. More testing pleasure.

What is a shroud in this instance? Could the rear case fan be used on the CPU cooler? Not sure if adding a second CPU fan adds to positive pressure. I'm not a physicist, but it seems it would unless it's actually grabbing outside air. Other wise it's just blowing case air more efficiently.

Fan Swaps:

Replace the stock rear 140mm with a quiet 120mm. Sadly, we don't know the specs on the stock fans, so would select a low speed <1200rpm unit.

They did give some stats in the review. 1300rpm I believe. It ran at 300 on low I think. It seems they could have figured out at what voltages? They said 3.5 watts on low I think. I'll have to double check, but that should give us the volts I think.

Replace both fans - select a quiet, yet powerful 140mm for the front, like a Noctua NF-P14 PWM or TY-140. Combine with a low rpm 140 or 120, for the rear, like the Noc NF-A14 or A12 - either the ULN or FLX series. Or a NF-S12A PWM. All the Nocs come with low noise adapters so it makes it easier to tweak.

Yes, always a way with money, but part of the appeal of the case was good fans included. Thanks for the specific info if I decide to got that way it will be helpful.

If going the full PWM method, can use a simple splitter like this that takes power from the PSU, but uses the CPU PWM header to control up to 5 fans.

The Nocs are my first pick for PWM control, because they don't click when undervolted unlike most PWM fans. On the cheap, could use the Arctic F12/F14 PWM - altho they have a slight click when running below 100%.

I like the idea of PWM, but don't they all then necessarily run at the same speed as the CPU fan and you can't then vary the speeds of them relative to each other?

Can you run non PWM fans off of PWM? I thought I had seen this mentioned that some setups use a not quite true PWM that works with 3 pin fans somehow. They said it's not real PWM, but still worked. I'd imagine PWM is just varying voltage, so if we can vary voltage with adaptors on regular fans it seems like there's maybe a way? Just wondering if I could do this method, but use the case fans.

Add a Fan:

You can add intake fans (and noise) - the W1 supports 2 120 or 140s up top. Could install a quiet 120 with good bearings (it's mounted horizontal, so sleeve bearings units need not apply) - Even an arctic F12 or F14 would do - when controlled.

Probably the easiest and most guaranteed way of success. It just seems a shame to add cost and noise to achieve positive pressure when the extra cooling benefit is probably not going to be needed.

These are the easy first things to experiment with. Achieving positive pressure airflow needs to be approached on a case by case basis. ;-) And that's the fun of it. Tweaking!

Well, I'll have plenty of tweaking to do trying to install OSX. I don't mind tinkering with fan settings and such, but the idea of trying to understand all these options, figure out the parts to get and spend money on them isn't a lot of fun for me. It's frustrating when the case ticks most of the other boxes.

With this build you really won't have much heat to dump - no GPU - and the W1 has a very clean airflow design - especially with the drive rack removed. Which would be the first mod I'd make. No pop rivet drilling required. Just a few screws. However, some modding is required to mount the optical drive. Hard drive would be mounted using the elastic method for maximum case decoupling.

I might add a GPU, but probably a modest one. I found out that Hackintosh's don't care for IGP's all that much. I guess it's possible, but not the easiest. So maybe this will push me over the edge to get a GPU.

-Does this case require or prefer a blower GPU? I don't even know exactly what that is, but I think it's the style that pushes air out towards the PCI bracket? They're usually louder I believe.

-I wonder why this case struggle so much with the GPU. The numbers were still kinda high with the filter removed. Maybe the holes are just too small.

-If I go with a GPU I'll consider the 1231 v3 CPU as it needs one anyhow and is cheaper and would help cover the GPU cost. Gets me HT, just a lower clock, so right in-between the 4690 and 4790 and it seems that for my use more cores would yield better results then clock. Just a consideration for me, just need to see if it's Hack friendly. I don't see it on the tonymac list, but not sure why it wouldn't be as it's 1150 socket.

-I'd like to use the HD cage if possible. Otherwise I'm not sure it can hold two HDD's. One main and a backup. Maybe I should run the backup externally anyhow. It would be nice to have room to grow though. I don't mind the idea of building some sort of external HD solution necessarily, but if thats the case then it seems like a waste to have the W1 which is very large for a mITX sized case.

-What is the mod to keep the optical drive without the cage? I do like Blu-Rays and CD's still.

And finally, not much positive pressure is required - all the panels pop off, so cleaning is a snap. And it's fairly small, so not much space to clean.

And the other finally, check out Bill Owen's walk-thru, pop-off of the W1 - What a nice little case to work in!

Yes, I dig the panels. It's a pretty slick little case overall.

Does this forum not have a "wrap quote" feature? I had to do all those manually.

Thanks again.

 

[ClockHound]

I searched the SPCR review, but I can't seem to find what they normally run at on low. I was thinking it's already 7V? If that's the case then that wouldn't work as the front would have to be on high.

Yeah, that would be easiest. Unfortunate that the review leaves doubt.

Sorry if I mislead, it's just a resistor in those adapters, not a 12V to 7V DC-DC regulator. ;-)

The free and cheapest options:

1. motherboard control with a different profile for the front and rear fan and bypass the stock controller. (Assuming the SPCR experience was an anomaly)

2. use the stock controller with a low noise adapter on the exhaust fan.

3. additional controller, like this Zalman. Again, it's just a variable resistor. Use in combo with stock controller for fully independent front/rear bias.

4. Add another restrictive grille or filter to the exhaust fan - make it work hard for its negativity. ;-) (teasing - sort of)

Let's save the shroud discussion for another time - it's simple - just some foam artboard to create a channel from the rear CPU cooler fan to the exhaust grille. But, it involves a 2nd PWM fan for the cooler - and really only useful when other approaches have been exhausted. *zing* I'm here all week!

While it's possible to make a 3pin work in a PWM environ, the results are uncertain and often ends in annoying clicky sounds mixed with curses.

If the budget won't support the full PWM plan, best to skip it - half measures are best applied in much smaller fractional doses. ;-) As seen above.

With a modest GPU you won't face the issues SPCR did with a 980. And if you're not gaming, then the heat output from the GPU will be minimal - their issue was with running benchmarks on the 980 within their SPCR silent criteria <20dB at 1M. If you're building a 'silent' gaming rig with a 980 (which this article was all about), then there's some reason for concern. Blower or open GPU cooler? Either. But open cooler will be quieter and on a modest dGPU, won't be dumping much heat into the case.

The issue they had with the stock case fans, was that the ASUS board couldn't read or control the rpm and had to use a visual method to count revolutions. It seemed to involve some Zen time relativity meditations and Sharpies.

And in their test, the 4 pin non-PWM headers on the ASUS Z97 only spun the case fans at full speed - which is expected if they were actual PWM headers. Unusual behavior from ASUS bios - haven't seen this phenomena with other user reports or my experience with other ASUS boards and 4 pin headers. You haven't selected that board, so you will likely face other dragons to slay.

The W1 ticks almost all the boxes and other than a Node 304, haven't seen another itx case that has as clean airflow with positive pressure possibilities.

If you want to be positively guaranteed of positive pressure in a case, there's the new Silverstone ST05 - it's bigger and over the twice the W1 price, but it works as advertised and is more svelte than the old FT02. And yes, it costs a little more in black. The cost differential would more than pay for a PWM splitter and a number of Noctua PWM fans for the W1 - more than it could possibly hold. ;-)

 

[aman74]

No, I don't think you misled. What I was trying to get at was if we knock down the voltage on the rear fan we must know that the front is operating at a higher voltage. I don't see the the voltage information in the review and can't seem to find it elsewhere yet. Usually on these case fan controllers the low setting seems to be 7 or 9 volts. The fact that you're suggesting using the 7V adaptor though tells me you must think that's lower than the low setting? Otherwise it wouldn't be needed as we could just use the case controller?...or maybe you're suggesting that we still need it because we can't use the case controller and MB controller at the same time, but in that case I don't think we'd need a fanmate, etc..if we're using the MB control?

I understand the basic premise, but feel I'm missing something here. You know a lot, so I'm assuming your suggestions are sound, I just don't quite understand.

"low noise adaptor" is the same thing as the Fanmate or Zalman item linked as far as being a device to knock down voltage?

Yes, I need to keep in mind the SPCR's criteria is pretty strict. Just trying to investigate everything as I'd consider gaming possibly as I have no newer console yet, so it's a possibility.

I'm checking out the Node as well.

W1 Looks great, just need to make sure it will work for me as I'd like positive pressure, would like to use the cage if possible and if not possible, need to know I can use the optical drive. When you start to have to move HDD's and opticals outside the case it starts to undermine the elegance of having a nice small case, for my use and thinking anyhow. The thing is, a lot of big cases benefit from cage removal as well.

I really like that Silverstone, just not sure why they don't do that same setup oriented in the normal direction. I don't like having the top open as I don't think there are filters for when it's off and you can spill something in there as it's large it won't be on the desk.

It's on sale so the price looks to be not that much different. Noctuas I think are like 20 bucks....still more though. If I were to go large it's between that and the Fractal most likely.

Whatever I go with this has all been very informative. Thanks for your patience. I'm trying to limit my questions now as I fear wearing out my welcome and I need to make a case decision, narrow down the option I'd like to try and then ask specific questions from there.

I really appreciate the help. SPCR is great, but the forum is very slow for some reason.

 

[ClockHound]

No, I don't think you misled. What I was trying to get at was if we knock down the voltage on the rear fan we must know that the front is operating at a higher voltage. I don't see the the voltage information in the review and can't seem to find it elsewhere yet. Usually on these case fan controllers the low setting seems to be 7 or 9 volts. The fact that you're suggesting using the 7V adaptor though tells me you must think that's lower than the low setting? Otherwise it wouldn't be needed as we could just use the case controller?...or maybe you're suggesting that we still need it because we can't use the case controller and MB controller at the same time, but in that case I don't think we'd need a fanmate, etc..if we're using the MB control?

If running both fans off the stock controller, they will run at the same speed, so inserting a resistive adapter between the controller and the exhaust fan would be one way to slow it. The issue I have with the stock controller is the limit of two settings - High/Low. Not enough in-between options for my taste and ears. Which is why I'd bypass it and use motherboard control - at least at first.

I understand the basic premise, but feel I'm missing something here. You know a lot, so I'm assuming your suggestions are sound, I just don't quite understand.

"low noise adaptor" is the same thing as the Fanmate or Zalman item linked as far as being a device to knock down voltage?

Yes, same thing, different phrase - I get bored easily. ;-)

With an extra $30-40 on fans, you can pretty much apply as much or as little positive pressure as desired. Which is what I'll be doing when I build in the W1. The best PWM Nocs are often under $20 on amazon.

Yes, I need to keep in mind the SPCR's criteria is pretty strict. Just trying to investigate everything as I'd consider gaming possibly as I have no newer console yet, so it's a possibility.

I'm checking out the Node as well.

W1 Looks great, just need to make sure it will work for me as I'd like positive pressure, would like to use the cage if possible and if not possible, need to know I can use the optical drive. When you start to have to move HDD's and opticals outside the case it starts to undermine the elegance of having a nice small case, for my use and thinking anyhow. The thing is, a lot of big cases benefit from cage removal as well.

I really like that Silverstone, just not sure why they don't do that same setup oriented in the normal direction. I don't like having the top open as I don't think there are filters for when it's off and you can spill something in there as it's large it won't be on the desk.

The 90 degree board flip is key to getting the 'silo' positive pressure operating according to Silverstone pressure authorities. I'm not fond of the top-mounted connector arrangement either - I have cats and I'm clumsy...and gravity is always looking for a chance to pounce. Not unlike the cats.

Silverstone's original positive pressure case used a traditional front-to-back approach. The TJ08 uses that concept. And it works well...It's just kinda bland plastic to me. I enjoyed the 90s as much as anyone, just not sure I want my computers to still live there.

It's on sale so the price looks to be not that much different. Noctuas I think are like 20 bucks....still more though. If I were to go large it's between that and the Fractal most likely.

Whatever I go with this has all been very informative. Thanks for your patience. I'm trying to limit my questions now as I fear wearing out my welcome and I need to make a case decision, narrow down the option I'd like to try and then ask specific questions from there.

I really appreciate the help. SPCR is great, but the forum is very slow for some reason.

I'm on SPCR too, but didn't see your post - but they are mostly the shy, silent type, so their responses aren't just slow, they're also silent - usually below the threshold of perception. ;-)

 

[aman74]

If running both fans off the stock controller, they will run at the same speed, so inserting a resistive adapter between the controller and the exhaust fan would be one way to slow it. The issue I have with the stock controller is the limit of two settings - High/Low. Not enough in-between options for my taste and ears. Which is why I'd bypass it and use motherboard control - at least at first.

Ok, first problem is I wasn't thinking that they weren't individually controlled.

How do we know that 7V's will slow it when we don't know how many volts the low setting of the case uses? That's what I'm getting at...

The 90 degree board flip is key to getting the 'silo' positive pressure operating according to Silverstone pressure authorities. I'm not fond of the top-mounted connector arrangement either - I have cats and I'm clumsy...and gravity is always looking for a chance to pounce. Not unlike the cats.

Silverstone's original positive pressure case used a traditional front-to-back approach. The TJ08 uses that concept. And it works well...It's just kinda bland plastic to me. I enjoyed the 90s as much as anyone, just not sure I want my computers to still live there.

I'm probably missing something, but it seems to me that:

-The exact same arrangement could be used "flipped"...the case would be long though.

-The same fan arrangement could be used without the motherboard flip...people talk about the MB arrangement being changed helps with convection, but convection has been shown to be a non-factor once fans are added.

Maybe like you're saying it does matter for the board flip, but they could still have the case flipped I'd think....like the TJ08-E. That's a pretty nice case...like you said kind of outdated though.

I guess they've downgraded their fans to a different version of 180mm's. The originals are 35 bucks a piece if you want them. There are I think only one or two other options for replacements. Probably not much of an issue, but with big purchases I like to know I can keep them going with minimal hassle and expense. Minor consideration if someone really loves the case, but it does add to the "knocks" when trying to pick one.

I'm on SPCR too, but didn't see your post - but they are mostly the shy, silent type, so their responses aren't just slow, they're also silent - usually below the threshold of perception. ;-)

 

[ClockHound]

Ok, first problem is I wasn't thinking that they weren't individually controlled.

How do we know that 7V's will slow it when we don't know how many volts the low setting of the case uses? That's what I'm getting at...

We don't. And we don't care, if we use a controller with a variable resistor - with enough resistance we can stop just about any fan. ;-)

I'm probably missing something, but it seems to me that:

-The exact same arrangement could be used "flipped"...the case would be long though.

And not patentable. They have a patent on the 90 degree board flip - innovation through better patent applications. ;-)

-The same fan arrangement could be used without the motherboard flip...people talk about the MB arrangement being changed helps with convection, but convection has been shown to be a non-factor once fans are added.

Agreed. Convection isn't involved when forced airflow is.

Maybe like you're saying it does matter for the board flip, but they could still have the case flipped I'd think....like the TJ08-E. That's a pretty nice case...like you said kind of outdated though.

I guess they've downgraded their fans to a different version of 180mm's. The originals are 35 bucks a piece if you want them. There are I think only one or two other options for replacements. Probably not much of an issue, but with big purchases I like to know I can keep them going with minimal hassle and expense. Minor consideration if someone really loves the case, but it does add to the "knocks" when trying to pick one.

The problem with the FT series fans is the noise at rpm >800 - fortunately the 'patented' design is good enough for decent cooling with the fans on low <700 rpm. And they are down near the floor at your feet, rather than your ears, so the odd clicking noise they make when undervolted won't annoy.

If I were spending your money, I'd save you some and get a Fractal R5 rather than the FT05. And then with the savings get a W1 for myself. ;-)

 

[aman74]

The one adapter isn't variable...hence my confusion. That's why I mentioned the 7V's.

For one of my examples, I was talking about flipping the case over and still having the board rotated...like the TJ08...interesting about the patent though.

 

[ClockHound]

The fixed resistance adapter is a binary variable - either it's inline or it's not. ;-)
Ok, bad recovery.

But, not far from the final usage case - I have a manual variable fan controller in one of my rigs - and once the sweet spot is found a fixed value resistor would do the job. Of course, that would involve more work and limit future possible tweaking. And the 4 channel controller's cost is justified by abstracted procrastination math. ;-)

Oh...flip the FT05 on it's back? That's puts the issue at a different angle. But would also put the clicky fans closer to the ears...

 

[aman74]

I think one or both of us isn't hearing or understanding the other.

If you buy a fixed 7V adapter, don't you need to know that the front is running at more then 7V's? That's where this convo began.

I definitely see the value of having it variable, no debate there, but since I'm trying to learn here, my questions were trying to pin down how/why a 7V fixed adapter is guaranteed to work in this scenario.

 

[aman74]

So what am I doing wrong? If I use google and look at price matches I get this:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147224

109 plus 4.99 shipping.

This is bizarre. I was reading over the thread and noticed that this was a Sears link which I never posted...it was from Newegg.

Now when I'm quoting it, it shows as Newegg....who knows what it will be when I post...

I saw this happen to someone in the Hot Deals thread and people said his compute must be knackered. Is this maybe some issue with Anandtech?

I've never seen such a thing.

 

[ClockHound]

I think one or both of us isn't hearing or understanding the other.

If you buy a fixed 7V adapter, don't you need to know that the front is running at more then 7V's? That's where this convo began.

I definitely see the value of having it variable, no debate there, but since I'm trying to learn here, my questions were trying to pin down how/why a 7V fixed adapter is guaranteed to work in this scenario.

It's a miscommunication...I didn't mean a true 7V adapter - although you could make one using diodes. Was referring to the fixed resistor style - usually around 50ohms. With many fans that's enough to drop the rpm by about 20%(ish). Which is often enough.

Except when it isn't - then a variable fan controller or motherboard control is the solution. Or motherboard control + fixed resistor.

Here's an old SPCR chestnut on various DIY fan slower-downers. Apologize for the hyphenated technical term. ;-)

 

[ClockHound]

This is bizarre. I was reading over the thread and noticed that this was a Sears link which I never posted...it was from Newegg.

Now when I'm quoting it, it shows as Newegg....who knows what it will be when I post...

I saw this happen to someone in the Hot Deals thread and people said his compute must be knackered. Is this maybe some issue with Anandtech?

I've never seen such a thing.

Sounds like a browser hijack exploit. Just checked all the W1 links in the thread in my hardened version of Waterfox and all the links go where it says they will go. Where the exploit originated is the question...

If you're using Firefox or the alternate foxes, then suggest using the noscript addon. Sometimes annoying, but safety first! ;-)

 

[aman74]

It's a miscommunication...I didn't mean a true 7V adapter - although you could make one using diodes. Was referring to the fixed resistor style - usually around 50ohms. With many fans that's enough to drop the rpm by about 20%(ish). Which is often enough.

Except when it isn't - then a variable fan controller or motherboard control is the solution. Or motherboard control + fixed resistor.

Here's an old SPCR chestnut on various DIY fan slower-downers. Apologize for the hyphenated technical term. ;-)

Oh ok, one of the ones linked was fixed 7V's so that's why I was wondering.

Sounds like a browser hijack exploit. Just checked all the W1 links in the thread in my hardened version of Waterfox and all the links go where it says they will go. Where the exploit originated is the question...

If you're using Firefox or the alternate foxes, then suggest using the noscript addon. Sometimes annoying, but safety first! ;-)

Darn.

I was hoping I was just hoping that it was because while the original link I posted was from Newegg, it was from a different retailer within Newegg, I guess they operate like Amazon now.

What does the link show for you? What I'm saying is it now actually says Sears for me in my original post, not saying it redirects after. When I quote it, it shows up again as Newegg. I'll click on that one to see where it takes me.

I had a pushed warning come through for me from my ISP, which is COX, a couple weeks ago. Of course now I can't remember what it was exactly, but it was a browser alert and I researched what it was at the time. It was said that it could affect Mac's, but that it was rare. Unfortunately I'm on an outdated OS, many problems with this machine and I can't update it...hence all this research in the first place. I'm using Chrome.

I had shut off Flash for awhile when I got the alert. I downloaded ClamXav and did a scan with no results. I have been running the "sentry" feature it has most of the time since then. I thought I was in the clear and now obviously I'm concerned again.

I haven't used any credit cards since then, but have logged into accounts. I don't know how worried I should be now and if I need to start changing passwords and changing credit card numbers.

I remember the alert, whatever the name was, when I researched it, it was some sort of trojan with keylogging abilities. Apparently one of the famous ones that had infected a lot of banking sites and such. However, when researching it and cox, a lot of people were also saying that it was most likely a false alarm caused by visiting a non-us site and that this just fit the algorithm for their warning system. That combined with the fact that I'm on an Apple made me let my guard down, but now I'm obviously concerned again....

Arrrggghhh!

 

[aman74]

Now the original post in question that I made says neweggbusiness, as does the one I quoted. Something is definitely up. What does my original post say for you? When I posted it, it was Newegg and not Neweggbusiness. If it's the business site for you as well, maybe it's not my machine. I just think it's odd that someone else had the exact same thing happen for them, so wondering if it's something with Newegg links or Anandtech....probably wishful thinking on my part.

 

[aman74]

Zeus is what it was called.

I thought it was odd that I got a COX warning as I never installed any of their software, but it seemed as though it was a browser push...the tech support said he was surprised as well...you'd think he'd know better.

 

[aman74]

So I found that link in the Hot Deals thread I was referencing where others experienced the same thing...

http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2424058

I went to the Viglink site and it cleared it up. It appears I can breathe easy now?

But what is that site and what causes this issue in the first place? Strange stuff.

 

[ClockHound]

Do you mean the first link you posted about the W1?
This post: http://forums.anandtech.com/showpost.php?p=37247926&postcount=44

It goes to newgg:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147224

Drive by browser hijack - Anand is part of Purch now and their added javascript and ads...well...stuff happens.

 

[aman74]

It's a miscommunication...I didn't mean a true 7V adapter - although you could make one using diodes. Was referring to the fixed resistor style - usually around 50ohms. With many fans that's enough to drop the rpm by about 20%(ish). Which is often enough.

Except when it isn't - then a variable fan controller or motherboard control is the solution. Or motherboard control + fixed resistor.

Here's an old SPCR chestnut on various DIY fan slower-downers. Apologize for the hyphenated technical term. ;-)

Do you mean the first link you posted about the W1?
This post: http://forums.anandtech.com/showpost.php?p=37247926&postcount=44

It goes to newgg:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147224

Drive by browser hijack - Anand is part of Purch now and their added javascript and ads...well...stuff happens.

Yeah, that post. It's fine for me now after I used that link from the other Anand thread.

So you're saying it was Anandtech and not me? Trying to not freak out here.

After that other recent issue I had I got worried again.

 

[ClockHound]

Can't say for sure where the drive-by originated...could be from any site you've visited or free nagware installed that mods shopping links.

If you're paranoid, and we were all talking about how you should be, er...no we didn't. ;-)
But, regardless of what we say, suggest installing Firefox and noscript and set your own web boundaries.

 

[aman74]

Oh, so the problem is with my computer?

I thought from that Anandtech link it sounded like it was an issue with this site...and what you said about "Anandtech is part of purch" made me think my computer was ok...I guess not.

I'll try Firefox, but it sounds like I still have something then?

 

[aman74]

If anyone cares or is worried about their computer...it turns out it was the forum.

 

[ClockHound]

Well...you should be able to get this link...oh wait....
In case you're still casing the cases, W1 in black is $79.99 with rebate: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147221

I don't trust the internet like I once did, that's why I use Firefox and noscript.

 

[Idontcare]

Well...you should be able to get this link...oh wait....
In case you're still casing the cases, W1 in black is $79.99 with rebate: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147221

I don't trust the internet like I once did, that's why I use Firefox and noscript.

Sorry but the internet failed you again it is now $69.99 after rebate

 

[ClockHound]

LOL! The web is in flux - if it hits $49, I'm in, even I have to purchase it over the internet.