Well I got my q6000 today and will be installing later this evening. I did run across this q6600 overclocking test over at bit-tech. They were able to overclock it to 3.348(372x9) stable on a P35 chipset (Asus P5K) and 3.285(365x9) on a XFX 680i chipset with a bump in voltage to 1.4625. I'll be doing a bios update to the F5b and slipstreaming the 15.01 nvidia chipset drivers into a Vista Ult install CD. Has anybody tried the official 162.22 drivers released today by nVidia for the 8800 series? I'll be slipstreaming those into the install either, crossing my fingers that this is a good release.
http://www.bit-tech.net/hardwa...el_core_2_quad_q6600/1
http://www.bit-tech.net/hardwa...el_core_2_quad_q6600/1
ahh please tell me how it goes. I am having a hard time oc'ing my 6600. Do you have G0 or B3 stepping?
I have the B3 stepping according to the box, its just sitting on my desk here at work begging me to leave early
.Hello all, I'm hoping someone out there can help me out with a strange issue.
I have the GA-N680SLI-DQ6 (Rev 2) with the Q6600 processor, OCZ gameXstream 700W power supply, Corsair TWIN2X2048-8500C5D RAM, along with an eVGA 8800GTS. All these products are brand new about 4 days ago. (there is only 1 BIOS for rev 2 at this point, FA)
The board worked just fine for several days, installed XP Pro quickly, seemed very stable running at stock BIOS settings. But now when I boot the computer when it's 'warm' I get a couple of 'BOCK' noises out the speaker and it shuts down just as my raptor drives start spining up. If I short the CMOS clear pins and restart the computer, I can get into windows and things seem fine. Upon any type of windows shutdown and restart, I again have to short the CMOS pins together to get going again if I restart within say....5 minutes. But if I let it sit a bit, it boots just fine. This shutdown includes changing BIOS settings and F10 exit and save.
I have checked the BIOS battery and it does read 3V, I have tried to follow the instructions on Gigabytes website about loading the BIOS, then select 'optomized defaults' in the BIOS setup, and then save and exit with no help. I have also tried selecting 'fail safe defaults' and the result is the same.
That's about all I can think of, any thoughts?
TIA
I should note that if I try to reload the BIOS from Qflash, I get a checksum error during post the next time I reboot. If I hit F1 from there, it boots fine, but again, I have to clear the CMOS at the next restart to get going.
(not a crosspost, I was informed that this message belongs in this thread rather than a new one)
I have the GA-N680SLI-DQ6 (Rev 2) with the Q6600 processor, OCZ gameXstream 700W power supply, Corsair TWIN2X2048-8500C5D RAM, along with an eVGA 8800GTS. All these products are brand new about 4 days ago. (there is only 1 BIOS for rev 2 at this point, FA)
The board worked just fine for several days, installed XP Pro quickly, seemed very stable running at stock BIOS settings. But now when I boot the computer when it's 'warm' I get a couple of 'BOCK' noises out the speaker and it shuts down just as my raptor drives start spining up. If I short the CMOS clear pins and restart the computer, I can get into windows and things seem fine. Upon any type of windows shutdown and restart, I again have to short the CMOS pins together to get going again if I restart within say....5 minutes. But if I let it sit a bit, it boots just fine. This shutdown includes changing BIOS settings and F10 exit and save.
I have checked the BIOS battery and it does read 3V, I have tried to follow the instructions on Gigabytes website about loading the BIOS, then select 'optomized defaults' in the BIOS setup, and then save and exit with no help. I have also tried selecting 'fail safe defaults' and the result is the same.
That's about all I can think of, any thoughts?
TIA
I should note that if I try to reload the BIOS from Qflash, I get a checksum error during post the next time I reboot. If I hit F1 from there, it boots fine, but again, I have to clear the CMOS at the next restart to get going.
(not a crosspost, I was informed that this message belongs in this thread rather than a new one)
Originally posted by: sskmercer
Hi there bka4u2c, with the REV1 boards(still havnt seen much for REV2 boards) is they still appear to have a hard ceiling of about 325FSB on the Q6600. So it will allow you a modest O/C at that. Though it is rock solid it isnt super fast i know. Besides that it's a truly awesome board and unless Gary corrects me this is a Hardware concern and not bios related.
With the latest price drops i'll be getting myself a nice chip just so i dont have this board sitting there anymore
Cheers
Hi,
I up around 380FSB right now with the Quads and F5B, the chipset should do up to 500 with some very special cooling.
Gigabyte is targeting the 400~425FSB range with the Quads at this point, which is actually very good for the 680i. The 15.01 drivers (love the 7/2 date although they just got released a couple of days ago) that were released from NV have Teaming and Firstpacket implemented from what I can tell but not hardware accelerated TCP/IP, so we are on the phone again with NV. I am testing RAID operation now as some improvements should have been made as well. Originally posted by: TheBeagle
Hello To Mr. PistolPat.
Generally speaking, I believe you are correct. However, it is important to remember that WinXP (all known retail forms) does NOT have any embedded SATA (serial) drivers. WinXP arrived on the scene BEFORE SATA become a defacto standard in the Windows operating system. Therefore, in order to accomplish an initial install of WinXP onto a SATA hard drive, you MUST use the F6 option and a floppy disk to load the SATA drivers into the OS, except as noted below. The primary reason for this is because SATA controller chips on the more recent motherboards require a different hardware/software communication link than the older PATA (parallel) chip sets and IDE software.
Otherwise, you most likely will get a message on the blue install screen (after you press F8 to acknowledge the EULA) indicating that Windows cannot locate a mass storage device onto which it can load, and will bomb out at that point. Of course, if you have a regular PATA IDE drive attached to the PC, WinXP WILL see that device, since (as you correctly noted) there are native PATA drivers embedded in WinXP.
Mr. Justin's earlier comment about slipstreaming is also correct, but that's NOT the known state of a retail copy of WinXP, but rather a hybrid created to avoid the need to utilize a floppy drive during the initial install sequence. A number of folks use that method when they don't have a floppy drive in their machine, and without it, they would not be able to initially load (or reload) WinXP (or Win2k). Some PC manufacturers, i.e. Dell & HP, use a form of slipstreaming to produce the "reinstall" CD that either comes with the PC or which you can buy at the time of initial purchase, since most of the lower cost machines don't have floppy drives installed in those PCs.
I believe we have beaten this dead horse enough. Everyone's contribution to this sub-thread I'm sure is appreciated. TheBeagle
I am installing Windows XP Pro now. I have a single SATAII drive (WD 500 gig). I want to install the SATA drivers. I don't plan to run RAID. I think I have the BIOS set up right. But I need to ask another question about this topic. I have the SATAII controllers enabled and I selected AHCI mode in the BIOS. After starting the Windows install, I hit F6 so I can load the SATA drivers. Was I supposed to put the controllers in AHCI mode before installing Windows? Could I have left the controller in IDE mode and change it to AHCI later? Should I even be in the AHCI mode? The windows install is currently at the formating step. So it seems I did the right thing. But I'm not sure.
Is there a way to install the raid driver without having a floppy drive for window xp? I'm having so much trouble since I don't have a working one right now and I just bought 2 Samsung HD501LJ. I don't want to pay the 7 bucks to buy a floppy drive I don't need.
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Good Evening Mr. Ozoneman.
My experience with AHCI drivers is that they are the devil's curse unless you get the installation exactly right. The drivers need to sense that AHCI has been activated on the motherboard by selecting that option in order to get a proper install. You do indeed need to load the AHCI drivers via the F6 install bootup option. You should also install the NV storage driver as well.
Presuming that the OS sensed everything correctly, the system should install just fine. However, I don't believe that you can accomplish this type of install with anything other than Vista or WinXP-SP2. Since using Vista 64, I've become a fan of that OS, since the drivers, etc for the bleeding edge components on boards such as the N680i is much more advanced and stable than even WinXP-SP2. If you go with WinXP, then I would download all the latest drivers from nVidia ASAP, since overall stability for your hard drives will be greatly enhanced by the latest chipset drivers.
Good luck with your rig, and always wear your seat belt when you fly that thing. TheBeagle :beer:
My experience with AHCI drivers is that they are the devil's curse unless you get the installation exactly right. The drivers need to sense that AHCI has been activated on the motherboard by selecting that option in order to get a proper install. You do indeed need to load the AHCI drivers via the F6 install bootup option. You should also install the NV storage driver as well.
Presuming that the OS sensed everything correctly, the system should install just fine. However, I don't believe that you can accomplish this type of install with anything other than Vista or WinXP-SP2. Since using Vista 64, I've become a fan of that OS, since the drivers, etc for the bleeding edge components on boards such as the N680i is much more advanced and stable than even WinXP-SP2. If you go with WinXP, then I would download all the latest drivers from nVidia ASAP, since overall stability for your hard drives will be greatly enhanced by the latest chipset drivers.
Good luck with your rig, and always wear your seat belt when you fly that thing. TheBeagle
:beer:It seems that it's all warm boot related. Are all you guys running the Rev 1 board, and if so, did you have simillar problems in earlier BIOS releases?
I should have said Windows XP-SP2, because that is what I just installed. Sorry for the confusion.
When I did the F6 thing there were only two choices in the menu. I selected the non-raid one. I didn't see a AHCI choice. I read that AHCI mode is also thought of as SATA mode.
http://www.intel.com/support/c.../imst/sb/cs-015988.htm
In this article they refer to Intel Matrix Storage Manager and I think when I did my 680i board it was called Nvidia Storage Manager or something like that. From what I read it looks like in order to have a SATA drive in SATA mode you need to set up the AHCI mode in the 680i.
Is that they way you read this?
I have Windows installed in the configuration I mentioned before. It seems to be working OK. I'm going to run 3DMark06 in a few minutes and I'll see what happens.
By the way, this G0 stepping Q6600 runs real cool with my Ninja Rev B cooler. When the system is at idle, the cpu fan doesn't even turn. The cpu stays at about 35 degrees C. When we do something on the PC, the fan starts to spin but not very fast (only about 250 rpms). This lower watt Q6600 (95 watt, G0) and this Ninja is keeping things really cool.
When I did the F6 thing there were only two choices in the menu. I selected the non-raid one. I didn't see a AHCI choice. I read that AHCI mode is also thought of as SATA mode.
http://www.intel.com/support/c.../imst/sb/cs-015988.htm
In this article they refer to Intel Matrix Storage Manager and I think when I did my 680i board it was called Nvidia Storage Manager or something like that. From what I read it looks like in order to have a SATA drive in SATA mode you need to set up the AHCI mode in the 680i.
Is that they way you read this?
I have Windows installed in the configuration I mentioned before. It seems to be working OK. I'm going to run 3DMark06 in a few minutes and I'll see what happens.
By the way, this G0 stepping Q6600 runs real cool with my Ninja Rev B cooler. When the system is at idle, the cpu fan doesn't even turn. The cpu stays at about 35 degrees C. When we do something on the PC, the fan starts to spin but not very fast (only about 250 rpms). This lower watt Q6600 (95 watt, G0) and this Ninja is keeping things really cool.
Blazer7
Golden Member
- Jun 26, 2007
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Good call dlbetz :thumbsup:
New drivers for winXP also 162.18
http://www.nvidia.com/object/winxp_2k_162.18.html
Now the only thing we're missing is a new platform driver!
My QX6700 is running great. Got it to 300x12 (3.6gHz) but haven't even tried anything crazy yet. This MB looks promising....
Well I got my Q6600 installed late last night. I had to backup my current data before doing anything which I hadn't done in over a month so that took a while. I then updated to the F5b bios installed Vista and ran into the shut down problem some people had a few pages back. I did read the solution about clear CMOS, flashing, loading optimized, etc... My question is since I'm having the shut down issue do I have to reflash the bios as part of the process to correct this problem or can I go through the process without flashing the bios again?
I left the system up and running last night running Core Temp and a torture test with Prime 95. This sucker does get hot as most have experienced. The first two cores idled at around 46-47C and the second two core were lower around 40-43C. Under the load of prime when I checked the log it looks like the temps on the first two cores got up to about 61C for a high. I'll take a stab at overclocking this afternoon after I cure the shut down issue as I want to get a stable overclock before I activate Vista. If I can get it to 3Ghz with decent temps I'll be happy for now. I haven't used core temp in a while since I prefer the more deceiving temperatures that are reported by the BIOS and my Monsoon II. Its quite funny that the Monsoon display got as high as 47C during load of Prime. Now I can accept those temps.
I left the system up and running last night running Core Temp and a torture test with Prime 95. This sucker does get hot as most have experienced. The first two cores idled at around 46-47C and the second two core were lower around 40-43C. Under the load of prime when I checked the log it looks like the temps on the first two cores got up to about 61C for a high. I'll take a stab at overclocking this afternoon after I cure the shut down issue as I want to get a stable overclock before I activate Vista. If I can get it to 3Ghz with decent temps I'll be happy for now. I haven't used core temp in a while since I prefer the more deceiving temperatures that are reported by the BIOS and my Monsoon II.
Its quite funny that the Monsoon display got as high as 47C during load of Prime. Now I can accept those temps.Never mind about the shut down fix process question, after reading it again I see it is required to reflash the BIOS during the process.
Well I tried the method for getting rid of the shut down problem, no go with the F5b. I tried a couple of different orders of clearing the cmos, flashing and loading defaults. None of them allowed me to shut down Vista completely. So I loaded optimized defaults, reboot, flash bios to f4, reboot, loaded optimized defaults, rebooted and Vista shut down with no problem on the first attempt. So it looks like thats where I am for now. I guess I will wait on the F5 final. On to better things.
After the fix above I decided to see if I could get to 3.0 (I know, so much for increasing in small increments). So I adjusted the following settings:
FSB = Unlinked
CPU = 340
MEM = 804
CPU v =1.35000
FSB = +0.15v
NB = +0.15v
SB = +0.05
HT = Normal
SB Standby = Normal
Booted into Vista on first attempt. So far I have stopped services I don't need running, installed 3Dmark 06, direct x9(june 2007), rebooted and ran 3DMark06 with coretemp in the background. Highest temp was on core 1 & 2 @ 68C. Which was during the CPU test of 3DMark it seems, because the rest of the log has core 1 & 2 @ 56-62C. Core 3 maxed @ 66C and Core 4 maxed @ 63C.
I also got the highest score I've had in 3D Mark since I had my Abit In9 32X-MAX motherboard(same video card).
http://service.futuremark.com/compare?3dm06=2568289
After the fix above I decided to see if I could get to 3.0 (I know, so much for increasing in small increments). So I adjusted the following settings:
FSB = Unlinked
CPU = 340
MEM = 804
CPU v =1.35000
FSB = +0.15v
NB = +0.15v
SB = +0.05
HT = Normal
SB Standby = Normal
Booted into Vista on first attempt. So far I have stopped services I don't need running, installed 3Dmark 06, direct x9(june 2007), rebooted and ran 3DMark06 with coretemp in the background. Highest temp was on core 1 & 2 @ 68C. Which was during the CPU test of 3DMark it seems, because the rest of the log has core 1 & 2 @ 56-62C. Core 3 maxed @ 66C and Core 4 maxed @ 63C.
I also got the highest score I've had in 3D Mark since I had my Abit In9 32X-MAX motherboard(same video card).
http://service.futuremark.com/compare?3dm06=2568289
Blazer7
Golden Member
- Jun 26, 2007
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Originally posted by: alcuin
380mhz fsb on an R1? Is a F5B beta release in our futures soon?
The F5b beta is already out. You can find a link to the BIOS in one of Gary's posts here :
http://forums.anandtech.com/me...AR_FORUMVIEWTMP=Linear
Right now everybody is waiting for the F5 official expected early August.
Blazer7
Golden Member
- Jun 26, 2007
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Gigabyte has updated the cpu support pages for both rev1 and rev2 boards once again.The new addition this time is the E6540 cpu. This cpu is officially supported since BIOS F4/FA.
The E6540 is identical to the E6550 (2.33GHz, 1333 FSB, 4MB L2, etc) with the exception that it does not support Intel's trusted execution technology (TXT).
The E6540 is identical to the E6550 (2.33GHz, 1333 FSB, 4MB L2, etc) with the exception that it does not support Intel's trusted execution technology (TXT).
Curious if any of you have thoughts on my warm reboot issue.
As a reminder, the system posts/boots just fine when it's cold, but if you need to do a restart such as even simply exit and save from the BIOS, after the computer has been powered on for only a few minutes it tries to restart, but shuts down only seconds later. If you immediatly try to power the computer back on, it starts to boot, but then shuts down immediatly again. In my fully loaded case I have to wait about 30 seconds before the system will post/boot again.
I've tried to clear the CMOS, set to 'optimal settings', reboot, and setup the BIOS changes you desire (in my case it's only a boost to DDR2 voltage and RAID settings) with no change. There is only 1 BIOS for this rev 2 board currently. During the post the 'Verifying DMI....' message never gives a result I've never seen it say updated or fail or anything, just the ...'s. How can you clear the DMI for this mobo?
I would really appreciate any comments and possible solutions. Do you think it could be the power supply? I've received that comment on another forum.
Thanks all!
As a reminder, the system posts/boots just fine when it's cold, but if you need to do a restart such as even simply exit and save from the BIOS, after the computer has been powered on for only a few minutes it tries to restart, but shuts down only seconds later. If you immediatly try to power the computer back on, it starts to boot, but then shuts down immediatly again. In my fully loaded case I have to wait about 30 seconds before the system will post/boot again.
I've tried to clear the CMOS, set to 'optimal settings', reboot, and setup the BIOS changes you desire (in my case it's only a boost to DDR2 voltage and RAID settings) with no change. There is only 1 BIOS for this rev 2 board currently. During the post the 'Verifying DMI....' message never gives a result I've never seen it say updated or fail or anything, just the ...'s. How can you clear the DMI for this mobo?
I would really appreciate any comments and possible solutions. Do you think it could be the power supply? I've received that comment on another forum.
Thanks all!
Blazer7
Golden Member
- Jun 26, 2007
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Mr mjrtoo, I do not know if this is of any help but I used to have exactly the same problem with my previous board. The system would shut down while booting and my Raptors were still on their spin-up. I also had/have an extremely heavy setup (see my config in one of my posts here : http://forums.anandtech.com/me...AR_FORUMVIEWTMP=Linear )
My previous board was the GA-965P-DQ6 rev1. A fine board but because of this problem I eventually sold it and got me the GA-N680SLI-DQ6 rev1 board (thank god). The only other changes to my setup were a SATA controller (removed of course) and PSU. I replaced my trusty Enermax Noisetaker II 600W for a brand-new Enermax Galaxy 850W.
I was not overclocking while using the 965P board but had to up the voltage for my mem to 2.325V. I am sure that my problem was memory related because the board was fine when I was using 2 sticks @1.8V with auto timings. The problem persisted even after a number of BIOS updates and I could enter windows only when the system was cold like you mentioned. When the system was warm and I was to do a restart and enter windows again I could try as many as 10 times before I could enter windows and that was when I was lucky. I do not know if this is what?s happening to you right now but it would help if you could post a complete list of your hardware configuration and BIOS settings.
My previous board was the GA-965P-DQ6 rev1. A fine board but because of this problem I eventually sold it and got me the GA-N680SLI-DQ6 rev1 board (thank god). The only other changes to my setup were a SATA controller (removed of course) and PSU. I replaced my trusty Enermax Noisetaker II 600W for a brand-new Enermax Galaxy 850W.
I was not overclocking while using the 965P board but had to up the voltage for my mem to 2.325V. I am sure that my problem was memory related because the board was fine when I was using 2 sticks @1.8V with auto timings. The problem persisted even after a number of BIOS updates and I could enter windows only when the system was cold like you mentioned. When the system was warm and I was to do a restart and enter windows again I could try as many as 10 times before I could enter windows and that was when I was lucky. I do not know if this is what?s happening to you right now but it would help if you could post a complete list of your hardware configuration and BIOS settings.
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Good Evening Mr. Mjrtoo.
May I suggest that you read my posts on page 55, dated July 24 and 25, 2007. You may have the same issue that I encountered, or at least some variation of it. It wasn't until I went through that process that I wrote about, in exactly that sequence, and changed the CMOS settings, etc to those precise values, did I eliminate that bootup problem. Now, you may indeed have issues with heat changing certain memory values, etc, but I'd suggest that you start with ensuring that the bootup process is not encountering interference from some residual DMI values that the board is attempting to write to the CMOS during boot. Give it a try and let us know. TheBeagle :beer:
May I suggest that you read my posts on page 55, dated July 24 and 25, 2007. You may have the same issue that I encountered, or at least some variation of it. It wasn't until I went through that process that I wrote about, in exactly that sequence, and changed the CMOS settings, etc to those precise values, did I eliminate that bootup problem. Now, you may indeed have issues with heat changing certain memory values, etc, but I'd suggest that you start with ensuring that the bootup process is not encountering interference from some residual DMI values that the board is attempting to write to the CMOS during boot. Give it a try and let us know. TheBeagle
:beer:I sincerely do appreciate the replies Blazer and Beagle, and I did take both of them into account during my last setup tests.
Blazer, I was upping the DDR voltage .4v to hit the 2.2v mark the RAM is supposed to run on.
Beagle, I followed your advice about clearing the CMOS, loading defaults, disabling DMI update etc etc.
Neither of these on their own seemed to change anything so I went on my own and did the following and with the suggestions from you both, seem to be running smoothly now <crossed fingers>
1) Re-Flash BIOS with @BIOS, and checked both the Clear DMI and Clear PnP Data Pool.
2) Clear CMOS
3) Reboot into BIOS and selected 'Load Optomized Defaults'
4) Changed the DDR2 voltage to + .425 volts along with the other setup stuff...RAID etc.
5) Save and Exit BIOS
It restarted YEA!!!
I also did another little test by changing the DDR voltage back to +.4v guess what, didn't restart, shut down just like before. I waited the 10 seconds restarted back into the BIOS, added the extra .025 volts making it +.425 and it restarted properly again! At this point I enabled SLI to 0% overclock and it still restarts properly, and reads DDR at 1067 on post. I don't think I'm going to push my luck anymore tonight and just leave it alone for a few days and see if it 'sticks'.
Do you suppose it could be the power supply not quite delivering the voltage/current required to the mobo that would mean I would have to bump it the extra voltage? I do have another PSU on order just for kicks anyway, the PC Power and Cooling Silencer 750 Quad. I just think the massive single rail power is a better deal than what I currently have, the OCZ gameXstream which is quad rails. (funny that two companies in the same group have such different methods). I'll let you know if I can back down the DDR voltage once I install the new PSU.
Once again, thanks to this forum and to both of you fine gents for prodding me into the right direction!
Blazer, I was upping the DDR voltage .4v to hit the 2.2v mark the RAM is supposed to run on.
Beagle, I followed your advice about clearing the CMOS, loading defaults, disabling DMI update etc etc.
Neither of these on their own seemed to change anything so I went on my own and did the following and with the suggestions from you both, seem to be running smoothly now <crossed fingers>
1) Re-Flash BIOS with @BIOS, and checked both the Clear DMI and Clear PnP Data Pool.
2) Clear CMOS
3) Reboot into BIOS and selected 'Load Optomized Defaults'
4) Changed the DDR2 voltage to + .425 volts along with the other setup stuff...RAID etc.
5) Save and Exit BIOS
It restarted YEA!!!
I also did another little test by changing the DDR voltage back to +.4v guess what, didn't restart, shut down just like before. I waited the 10 seconds restarted back into the BIOS, added the extra .025 volts making it +.425 and it restarted properly again! At this point I enabled SLI to 0% overclock and it still restarts properly, and reads DDR at 1067 on post. I don't think I'm going to push my luck anymore tonight and just leave it alone for a few days and see if it 'sticks'.
Do you suppose it could be the power supply not quite delivering the voltage/current required to the mobo that would mean I would have to bump it the extra voltage? I do have another PSU on order just for kicks anyway, the PC Power and Cooling Silencer 750 Quad. I just think the massive single rail power is a better deal than what I currently have, the OCZ gameXstream which is quad rails. (funny that two companies in the same group have such different methods). I'll let you know if I can back down the DDR voltage once I install the new PSU.
Once again, thanks to this forum and to both of you fine gents for prodding me into the right direction!
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Hello Again Mr. Mjrtoo.
Sounds like you may have solved your own problem - Congrats! As the saying goes, "necessity is the mother of invention!" You just might be having a momentary sag in power in your rig that's just enough to contribute to this problem as well. It's ALWAYS a good idea to size your PSU to an excess power factor of at least a +30%. That way, as time goes by, and the capacitors, etc start to age, you will still have plenty of capacity for your system.
BTW, PC Power & Cooling was just very recently bought out by the OCZ folks. We shall see whether or not the absolutely sterling quality of the PCP&C equipment maintains its integrity now that a big player has taken them over.
I used to buy only PCP&C stuff, but their prices got way out of line with their products (I understand that it was all made in the USA by union folks and all that) but a few of the other manufacturers have really stepped up and brought some real innovations to the table. I now use ThermalTake ToughPower PSUs in all my stuff, and recommend them to others as well. The ToughPower modular cabling system is hard to beat, and you can get units from 650W up to 1200W, the construction and components are top notch, and they don't inflate their specs.
Anyway, let us know how you make out with your investigation of this pesky issue. Have a nice evening. TheBeagle :beer:
Sounds like you may have solved your own problem - Congrats! As the saying goes, "necessity is the mother of invention!" You just might be having a momentary sag in power in your rig that's just enough to contribute to this problem as well. It's ALWAYS a good idea to size your PSU to an excess power factor of at least a +30%. That way, as time goes by, and the capacitors, etc start to age, you will still have plenty of capacity for your system.
BTW, PC Power & Cooling was just very recently bought out by the OCZ folks. We shall see whether or not the absolutely sterling quality of the PCP&C equipment maintains its integrity now that a big player has taken them over.
I used to buy only PCP&C stuff, but their prices got way out of line with their products (I understand that it was all made in the USA by union folks and all that) but a few of the other manufacturers have really stepped up and brought some real innovations to the table. I now use ThermalTake ToughPower PSUs in all my stuff, and recommend them to others as well. The ToughPower modular cabling system is hard to beat, and you can get units from 650W up to 1200W, the construction and components are top notch, and they don't inflate their specs.
Anyway, let us know how you make out with your investigation of this pesky issue. Have a nice evening. TheBeagle
:beer:No one addressed my last postt. I'm still not clear on this matter about SATA drives. Please read this Link.
http://www.intel.com/support/c.../imst/sb/cs-015988.htm
Is this saying that if you don't use AHCI mode you are not really in SATA mode? If you aren't in SATA mode what is the point in loading the SATA drivers at the F6 thing.
I just set up two new builds. Both are Windows XP. First one is a Gigabyte 680i board. I loaded the SATA drivers at F6 and I had the bios setup so it would be in AHCI mode. Every thing is working great. The other build was my Gigabyte P35-DQ6 and I didn't load the SATA drivers at F6 and I left the bios set up with IDE mode. It works great too!
So what is the difference? Are both systems using my SATA drives as SATA drives? If I set up my bios to IDE mode, am I only getting IDE out of my SATA drive?
http://www.intel.com/support/c.../imst/sb/cs-015988.htm
Is this saying that if you don't use AHCI mode you are not really in SATA mode? If you aren't in SATA mode what is the point in loading the SATA drivers at the F6 thing.
I just set up two new builds. Both are Windows XP. First one is a Gigabyte 680i board. I loaded the SATA drivers at F6 and I had the bios setup so it would be in AHCI mode. Every thing is working great. The other build was my Gigabyte P35-DQ6 and I didn't load the SATA drivers at F6 and I left the bios set up with IDE mode. It works great too!
So what is the difference? Are both systems using my SATA drives as SATA drives? If I set up my bios to IDE mode, am I only getting IDE out of my SATA drive?
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