What's a hole saw?

[paperfist]

It's the tool that attaches to a drill that will cut out 1/2", 1", 1.5", etc holes, right?

Is there another tool with the same name?

I ask because I went to the big box store to get something to cut out the area in the counter top for a drop in sink. I wondered if the router bit I had selected would work since the jig saw I am trying to use cuts anything but straight. The guy said a hole saw would work better. I walked away perplexed.

So I asked another guy there if the router bit I selected would work. He said sure, you can even use it in a drill if you don't have a router....

 

[NutBucket]

You can use a jig saw. It sounds like you're doing a top-mounted sink into a laminate counter? If so, whatever radius you need for the corners can be done with the jig saw. Plus, the rim of the sink will cover up any....irregularities in your cut.

 

[boomerang]

A jigsaw blade with dull teeth on one side will be bear to try and get a straight cut with. If that's not the case, you're the one guiding the jigsaw. It should cut where you guide it. The only limitation is the size of the radius you can cut and that is dependent on the width of the blade.

 

[Binky]

I can't say that I've seen a hole saw large enough to fit a sink in the hole.

 

[boomerang]

I can't say that I've seen a hole saw large enough to fit a sink in the hole.

No kidding. But I think something is being lost in translation.

A hole saw would of course cut some very nice corners for a sink opening. That might be the way a homeowner that only does the occasional project around the house would approach the project. I can't see that same homeowner free handing with a router though. The router bit portion just confuses me.

 

[paperfist]

I think he might of thought I just needed to drill out for a faucet. I didn't have the heart to continue the conversation.

I'm using a pretty new Black and Decker jig saw with a new blade for laminate work. I think something is wrong cause the blade keeps coming off the guide wheel. I even have a guide setup to cut against and it keeps wanting to go left away from the guide. Very frustrating!!

I was tempted to buy a new jig saw for $150 but I use them like 2x a year. I bought a flush cut router bit and going to try that out.

 

[paperfist]

You can use a jig saw. It sounds like you're doing a top-mounted sink into a laminate counter? If so, whatever radius you need for the corners can be done with the jig saw. Plus, the rim of the sink will cover up any....irregularities in your cut.

Yes, top mounted sink onto laminate counter top. There is a bit of overlay, but not much at about 1/2". I'm not really sure why the jig saw is fighting me so much.

I already drilled out the 4 corners so all I'm trying to do is make 4 straight line cuts.

 

[MongGrel]

A hole saw in the 4 corners would be ideal with a template and lay the centers out. And cut straight lines to them with a jigsaw.

Hole saws run a bit.

It sounds like your trying to force the jigsaw to cut too much, let it cut and don't try to force it ahead.

Maybe try putting light oil on the blade a little even, lard would even work.

A laminate blade after rereading might be your biggest problem, laminate itself isn't thick, is it really fine toothed ?

Might need something a bit larger toothed.

 

[NutBucket]

I think the laminate blade may be the problem. I would try a blade designed for wood. Apply painter's tape along the cutting path and that should help prevent the laminate from chipping.

 

[paperfist]

A hole saw in the 4 corners would be ideal with a template and lay the centers out. And cut straight lines to them with a jigsaw.

Hole saws run a bit.

It sounds like your trying to force the jigsaw to cut too much, let it cut and don't try to force it ahead.

Maybe try putting light oil on the blade a little even, lard would even work.

A laminate blade after rereading might be your biggest problem, laminate itself isn't thick, is it really fine toothed ?

Might need something a bit larger toothed.

Thanks I'll try the oil. I do have a death grip on the jig saw because there's not much of an overlay and I don't want to stray off the cut line too much.

Plus the sink is massive and after the cutout there will be less then an 1" in front and in back of the sink. The core is crappy 3/4" partical board and I don't want to undermine what little structural integrity it has.

Yeah the blade is fine, really fine. Forgot how many TPI.

 

[MongGrel]

That or borrow a Sawzall from someone and go to town

 

[paperfist]

I think the laminate blade may be the problem. I would try a blade designed for wood. Apply painter's tape along the cutting path and that should help prevent the laminate from chipping.

I have the tape laid out already. I'm just worried that the laminate will split. I'm not sure that could actually happen.

 

[paperfist]

That or borrow a Sawzall from someone and go to town

HA! I have one and am really, really tempted to use it with a metal blade.

My GF picked out the most beautiful counter top set on the crappiest piece of partical board they could find. I'm thinking the vibration from the saw will crack it.

This shouldn't be this hard. I cut it to length already in 2 minutes with a circular saw and zero chips. The damn saw is to big to cut the sink part out though

 

[herm0016]

Use a coarser tooth blade. That should get you going, and don't force the work.

 

[NutBucket]

You can reinforce the opening to help support the weight of the sink it you're concerned.

 

[Greenman]

I have the tape laid out already. I'm just worried that the laminate will split. I'm not sure that could actually happen.

They make jig saw blades that cut on the down stroke instead of the up stroke, that prevents chipping. If the blade wanders a lot you either have a very cheap blade, or a crappy jig saw.

 

[paperfist]

They make jig saw blades that cut on the down stroke instead of the up stroke, that prevents chipping. If the blade wanders a lot you either have a very cheap blade, or a crappy jig saw.

Thanks.

Does that type of blade have a name?

I'm guessing the jig saw is crappy. It wasn't cheap, but it's a Black and Decker that doesn't seem too well built.

The blades are name brand and around $10.

 

[twinrider1]

I can't say that I've seen a hole saw large enough to fit a sink in the hole.

 

[Greenman]

Thanks.

Does that type of blade have a name?

I'm guessing the jig saw is crappy. It wasn't cheap, but it's a Black and Decker that doesn't seem too well built.

The blades are name brand and around $10.

They're called a reverse tooth blade. Sometimes things really do make sense.
You have to cut slow, and keep down pressure on the saw, otherwise the blade wants to ride up the material you're cutting. It's the exact opposite of how the tool was designed to work.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_s...saw+blade&sprefix=reverse+tooth+jigsa,aps,253

 

[Greenman]

That'a an extremely serious hole saw. I want one.

 

[Howard]

That'a an extremely serious hole saw. I want one.

Might even be able to use it for tree stumps.

 

[Greenman]

Might even be able to use it for tree stumps.

Doesn't matter if you never use it, just show up on the job with it and you've got some serious street cred.

 

[MongGrel]

Doesn't matter if you never use it, just show up on the job with it and you've got some serious street cred.

:thumbsup::thumbsup:

 

[Red Squirrel]

I can't help but imagine the sound that makes when it initially makes contact with smoothed out concrete. *SHREEEEEEEEEEK*

That's one serious hole saw though.

 

[stormkroe]

I wonder if it still has a 1/4" pilot bit in the center? ()