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What first world problem did you have today?

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The air conditioning is triggered by temperature, not humidity, but it's been reaaally humid all week, so we had to dig the dehumidifiers out of the closet.

It's so humid in the garage that I brought the small set of drawers and matching table I built into the living room for the glue to dry.

Cut my hand on a router table, but I live within a few hundred yards of a hospital/urgent care, and it turns out it wasn't very bad anyway (just bled a lot and I'm a bleeding n00b.) So I have to wipe my ass with me left hand until my fingernail grows back, otherwise it feels funny.
 
Municipal ordinance in my town bans the sale of spray paint so instead of driving 10 minutes to Home Depot I had to drive to one that was 30 minutes away, and spend 60 minutes round trip just for a $5 bottle of spray paint.
 
dave_the_nerd said:
Cut my hand on a router table, but I live within a few hundred yards of a hospital/urgent care, and it turns out it wasn't very bad anyway (just bled a lot and I'm a bleeding n00b.) So I have to wipe my ass with me left hand until my fingernail grows back, otherwise it feels funny.
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May I suggest a couple pairs of cut resistant gloves.

http://www.amazon.com/b?node=393303011

I prefer the steel mesh variety but kevlar is also good. It's really easy to get your hand pulled into places it doesn't want to be with power tools so I always use something like this if my hand is going to be anywhere near a spinning/reciprocating blade or chain saw. This time it sounds like you got lucky but good gear like this could save a finger or two.
 
Charmonium said:
May I suggest a couple pairs of cut resistant gloves.

http://www.amazon.com/b?node=393303011

I prefer the steel mesh variety but kevlar is also good. It's really easy to get your hand pulled into places it doesn't want to be with power tools so I always use something like this if my hand is going to be anywhere near a spinning/reciprocating blade or chain saw. This time it sounds like you got lucky but good gear like this could save a finger or two.
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I looked those types of gloves up a while ago... Saw people on woodworking forums recommend against them because the damage caused by the glove getting caught in the machinery was apparently worse. I don't power tool or woodwork so wouldn't know.

And OMFGBBQ, I processed "routing table" as a type of server rack.
 
Imp said:
I looked those types of gloves up a while ago... Saw people on woodworking forums recommend against them because the damage caused by the glove getting caught in the machinery was apparently worse. I don't power tool or woodwork so wouldn't know.

And OMFGBBQ, I processed "routing table" as a type of server rack.
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I've never gotten my hands or fingers caught working with power tools, but it's hard to imagine that the gloves would be capable of making anything worse. I'd like to know exactly how people backup that claim.

I can understand that there might be a small danger with the steel mesh type of glove since maybe if the strands are cut you could get some splinters, but for the Kevlar, that sounds pretty bogus. And even if the steel ones can cause superficial cuts, that's got to be better than losing a hand or a finger.
 
Constantly having to locate the mouse pointer on my triple monitor setup (1080p each) is a pain in the ass. Its also a guessing game as far as which monitor a new window/application will open up on.

Picture-21.png
 
Wife wanted a new Bottega Veneta handbag so I voluntary signed up for spam email from Neiman Marcus so I could get 10% off coupon. I tried to use it and it doesn't work on Bottega Veneta and other designer products. So now I have to pay full price and still deal with spam emails.
 
ponyo said:
Wife wanted a new Bottega Veneta handbag so I voluntary signed up for spam email from Neiman Marcus so I could get 10% off coupon. I tried to use it and it doesn't work on Bottega Veneta and other designer products. So now I have to pay full price and still deal with spam emails.
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Now that is a first world problem.
 
The woman at the pharmacy asked me if I wanted to pay via cash or credit but didn't bother telling me the amount, leaving me with no frame of reference for whether the cash I had on me would cover the charge. I opted for credit, only to see that my insurance knocked the price of the medication so low that the cash I had on hand would have easily covered it. It was too late though; I didn't want to be one of those people who's like "actually, I'll pay cash" and make more work for her. So now I've got a debit of $9.63 on the account which just looks stupid.
 
Atomic Playboy said:
The woman at the pharmacy asked me if I wanted to pay via cash or credit but didn't bother telling me the amount, leaving me with no frame of reference for whether the cash I had on me would cover the charge. I opted for credit, only to see that my insurance knocked the price of the medication so low that the cash I had on hand would have easily covered it. It was too late though; I didn't want to be one of those people who's like "actually, I'll pay cash" and make more work for her. So now I've got a debit of $9.63 on the account which just looks stupid.
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At the local convenience store, people use CC and debit cards to make $1.50 purchases.
 
Bought another surge protector, a cheapo just to plug in some cheap stuff that didn't even need surge protection. However, the POS has a busted LED on the on/off switch. Surge protection LED indicator works, I can get power out of it, so I think I'm going to let it slide. Package sucked and the thing was bouncing around in the box, so it may have been a return.

Edit: Okay, I'm an idiot -- lulz -- the switch, apparently, doesn't light up. Sort of confirmed on Amazon, and looking closely at the switch, there seemed to be a solid opaque layer inside the switch. Couldn't spot an LED like all my other switches. I just assumed it did because the other six surge protectors I had from the same brand had light-up switches.
 
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Imp said:
Bought another surge protector, a cheapo just to plug in some cheap stuff that didn't even need surge protection. However, the POS has a busted LED on the on/off switch. Surge protection LED indicator works, I can get power out of it, so I think I'm going to let it slide. Package sucked and the thing was bouncing around in the box, so it may have been a return.
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I have an old kitchen with only 2 independent outlets so I have to use a power strip. Unfortunately, most of these don't seem to be very well calibrated. If I run the nuke-o-wave at full power, it will trip after 3 or 4 minutes. It's not a big deal since most microwave cooking instructions are calibrated for lower power anyway, but it's still a pain in the ass.
 
IronWing said:
At the local convenience store, people use CC and debit cards to make $1.50 purchases.
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I've probably bought a single cheeseburger at Burger King using a card.
I find that if I do have cash on hand, I tend to spend it more quickly just to get rid of it.
Stores complain about swipe fees, but cash also generally doesn't deliver itself to businesses and banks, nor mint itself at the Treasury, for free.
(And several studies have shown that people tend to spend more when using a card than with cash, more than enough to offset the swipe fees. The fees are just easier to measure.)
 
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Start my new job on Monday and they want me to come in at 9AM. Now, I have to alter my sleep schedule to wake an hour later than usual or find out what I am going to do with the extra time in the morning...
 
Charmonium said:
I have an old kitchen with only 2 independent outlets so I have to use a power strip. Unfortunately, most of these don't seem to be very well calibrated. If I run the nuke-o-wave at full power, it will trip after 3 or 4 minutes. It's not a big deal since most microwave cooking instructions are calibrated for lower power anyway, but it's still a pain in the ass.
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Sounds like it's tripping a thermal breaker with the time delay -- from the little electrical knowledge I know, it's usually the thermal part for a house breaker and you need the Power of Christ running through your cords trip the magnetic part. Do you have other things on at the same time? Most microwaves I've seen, supposedly, use a max of 1200-ish watts (10-ish amps, assuming PF=1). Standard circuits in America and Canada are 1800 watts or 15 amps?
 
Imp said:
Sounds like it's tripping a thermal breaker with the time delay -- from the little electrical knowledge I know, it's usually the thermal part for a house breaker and you need the Power of Christ running through your cords trip the magnetic part. Do you have other things on at the same time? Most microwaves I've seen, supposedly, use a max of 1200-ish watts (10-ish amps, assuming PF=1). Standard circuits in America and Canada are 1800 watts or 15 amps?
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No, I can't reliably run more than one appliance on that circuit at the same time so when I use the microwave, that's all that's even turned on. I don't even keep the Keurig on in case it decides to top off the water temp. It's just that the microwave is a beast. I think it's at least 1300-1400watts. And I noticed with the old one, just having some debris in the turntable wheels was enough to push the power draw over the edge.

I wasn't aware that there were two trip circuits in the power strip. I should look into that. But you're probably right about heat causing the issue.

I don't really mind since I'd rather have the strip trip off than the breaker. Apparently mechanical breakers will wear out if you have them going off all of the time and eventually become a fire hazard.
 
Charmonium said:
I wasn't aware that there were two trip circuits in the power strip. I should look into that. But you're probably right about heat causing the issue.

I don't really mind since I'd rather have the strip trip off than the breaker. Apparently mechanical breakers will wear out if you have them going off all of the time and eventually become a fire hazard.
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I was talking about a regular North American house circuit breaker with the two breaker systems. No clue what surge protectors use, but I'm assuming thermal.

Sounds more like the wiring in the house or that specific microwave may be the main issue.
 
I just blew $20 on two new USB 2.0 cables: micro and mini-B. The catch? They're braided. Holy shit, they are so awesome. I don't want to live in a world without braided exterior cable jackets.

P.S. Had to dig out my unused external DVD drive to try the mini-B. Everything's micro-B now -- they're supposedly more durable.
 
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