WC kit arriving today

[DaQuteness]

Originally posted by: TimBob
It's about 72F in my house.

Here's a photo. It's a bit of a mess right now.

http://i286.photobucket.com/al...107/TimBob5259/005.jpg

Thanks a lot for the photo. As far as i can see, airflow is nowhere near being a problem. 75F... that's about 23C. Sounds low enough for me. Since all the problems have been ruled out, the only problem i can think of remains the faulty sensor. Absolutely no other reason and i think everybody agrees with me on this.

 

[WoodButcher]

:light: The Dtek stock comes with no backplate, did you install one?

 

[imported_TimBob]

Used the backplate that came with the Tuniq which is already taped to the back of the MB.

 

[WoodButcher]

Originally posted by: DaQuteness
Thanks a lot for the photo. As far as i can see, airflow is nowhere near being a problem. 75F... that's about 23C. Sounds low enough for me. Since all the problems have been ruled out, the only problem i can think of remains the faulty sensor. Absolutely no other reason and i think everybody agrees with me on this.

I'm almost there, what about the orientation of the Dtek. Try rotating it 90 deg, when I have pulled my block I've found a horizontal or vertical area where the TIM has been spread thinner, have you seen this? My outlet in a tower is at the bottom left or nearer the PCI slots and backplane.

 

[imported_TimBob]

OK. I'll try rotating it later tonight.
Also, should my fans be blowing through the radiator?

 

[DaQuteness]

It's better off if they pull the air through the radiator, using a shroud of course.

 

[DerwenArtos12]

NEG, 97.23% of fans on the market are going to be MUCH more effective pushing than pulling and a shroud is overkill but, not in a bad way IMHO unless you have some deltas or San Aces with the BIG hub. I didn't see mention of the model fan you're using or what voltage it's at

 

[imported_TimBob]

I'm using the fans that came with the kit. Yate Loon D12SL-12. No shroud.

 

[DerwenArtos12]

Problematic thing here is that your idle temp is fine, where it should be. Your load is whats worrisome which pretty well removes the idea of excess TIM or a loose mount. Were that the case your idles would be high and your loads would be closer to proper. Are the Fans at 12V? Something is keeping your system from properly dissipating the heat. How's the flow in your microres? Depending on how full it is you should be able to actually see the fluid moving a bit if you have enough flow through your loop.

 

[imported_TimBob]

How would I know if the fans are at 12V? They are just plugged into the 4-pin molex connector. My Res is actually pretty much filled to the top and I can see some movement.

 

[DerwenArtos12]

they should be at 12v then. and if you can see movement in a full res then you're getting 1.5gpm+ so you're fine there. do you have any other fans laying around you could slap on it to see if it makes a difference?

 

[imported_TimBob]

Yes,
I've got some Antec fans I could try out. I think I will try to rotate and remount as well (didn't have time last night). Should the radiator be warm to the touch?

Also, just ordered the accelerator and pro-mount since I need the backplate to move my Tuniq to my e6300 pc. I'll probably end up re-doing everything in the near future since I didn't plan out where I would be placing the parts.

 

[DerwenArtos12]

no, the radiator should not feel warm to the touch. if it is, you do not have enough airflow across it.

 

[imported_TimBob]

It's not warm and the fans are blowing right through the radiator and keeping me nice and cool.

 

[imported_TimBob]

Update: I tired rotating and new fans on the radiator. Pretty much the same results except much louder fans so the Yate Loons are back on.

I remounted twice.
Once with a very small amount of TIM and that didn't work out very well. 60C idle!
Next, remounted with a more generous amount of TIM and temps are back to where I started. Currently running 3.5 (1.4v); mid 30's idle, mid 50's load.

Also, ran into another issue for a while because I couldn't boot at all. My guess is that I was shorting the MB and must have screwed the block in too tight and bent the backplate causing it to touch the MB in a bad spot. Loosened it up a bit to fix it.

 

[aigomorla]

A few things, your inlet on the d-tek is the middle correct? I cant seem to see it clearly.

Another thing, give your rad a good single shake. See if there still bubbles.

Lastly i need you to do a thermometer test.

Lets have a break down of your system in numbers so i can see where its messing up.

If you dont know what that means its simple. Grab a thermometer. The kind you put in your mouth when your sick. Glass mercury is the best, dont get the electrical ones.

Now place it in front of your radiator where its drawing air. Record the temperature. This is your intake ambient.

Now after about 15-20 sec, make sure you take that ambient and record it.

Now next step, while your cpu is loading drop the thermometer in your reservoir, dont lose it tho, and hold it there for about 30 sec. Make sure your system is on load for at least 20-30min b4 you drop the thermo in. [It can take about this long for the water temp to =]

Record the max water temp on load, Then on idle, after it comes off load, wait 10 min, let the coolant = again. Record temps here as well.

I am looking for 3 things right now.

1. Intake Temp = Ambient temp.
2. Efficency Temp. Meaning the difference between idle and load. The number should not be that great.
3. The delta between idle and load in contrast to ambient temp.


Need these to see if something is wrong.

 

[imported_TimBob]

Yes, the inlet from the radiator is going into the middle of the d-tek.
Also, in case the photo isn't clear, my loop is pump>radiator>cpu>res>pump.

I'll work on getting those temps for you.

Thanks to everyone for all the help.
Tim

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: TimBob
Yes, the inlet from the radiator is going into the middle of the d-tek.
Also, in case the photo isn't clear, my loop is pump>radiator>cpu>res>pump.

I'll work on getting those temps for you.

Thanks to everyone for all the help.
Tim

tim do one thing for me b4 you do anything.

Uplug the mobo and do another bleed. However during your bleeding, tilt the case in a 45 degree angle @ the pivit point using the front of your case. Im guessing your radiator is not properly bleed. Top mounted radiators are the hardest POS to bleed.

 

[imported_TimBob]

I think you may be right about bleeding being my problem. The radiator is just sitting on it's side on my desk and I did try to shake/tilt it around a bit. I did see a few bubbles pop up and now my water looks frothy.

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: TimBob
I think you may be right about bleeding being my problem. The radiator is just sitting on it's side on my desk and I did try to shake/tilt it around a bit. I did see a few bubbles pop up and now my water looks frothy.

>.<

i hope its just that. Cuz thats an easy problem to fix.

 

[imported_TimBob]

I think I'm missing something when it comes to bleeding.
Isn't bleeding basically accomplished just by running the loop? If that's the case, why does it need to be unhooked from the MOBO? Wouldn't bleeding occur when I turn the PC on now?

Also, when bleeding, does it matter if the reservoir cap is on or off?

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: TimBob
I think I'm missing something when it comes to bleeding.
Isn't bleeding basically accomplished just by running the loop? If that's the case, why does it need to be unhooked from the MOBO? Wouldn't bleeding occur when I turn the PC on now?

Also, when bleeding, does it matter if the reservoir cap is on or off?

Bleeding is the process in which you evacuate all air.

The reason why i say you should turn off your computer is because i dont think you want to tilt it when its on. A lot of bad things can happen if you accidentally drop it.

Ram can slip out and short something, your cards can joggle lose and short something, your hard drives can get damaged.

I didnt mean unplug your tubes. I ment unplug the power line. :T

Also sometimes the radiator wont bleed properly. That means its not working to its full power. You need to bleed it perfectly to get the true perfomance out of it.

Also leave the cap open its faster that way unless your worried about the res poping. In which case then you have your loop order wrong.

 

[imported_TimBob]

Got it.

As my computer isn't really in a case, the radiator is not mounted to anything so can be twisted and turned without affecting the case.

 

[DaQuteness]

You could bleed the radiator much faster and way better if you can get a bleeding pump like those used to bleed brake fluid on bikes and cars. It's very efficient, trust me A friend of mine had the same problem, improper rad bleeding, therefor high cpu temps. Since his father used to be a mechanic i thought i'd give it a go using a pump and guess what... it worked! temps dropped 4-5C This happened yesterday, and i tried this because i remembered this topic and the problem it involved.

 

[imported_TimBob]

I got my nozzle kit and pro-mount so going to be re-doing everything this weekend. What's the best way to remove the tubing from the barbs?