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water loop running hotter than air cooling

M

midnightfender

Junior Member
Ok to start off I'm using a swiftech water block with 1/2id tubing, a 350 gph pump
for a rad I'm using a heater core out of a chevy truck now idling I have temps about 40c and with load speedfan says I'm getting up to 60c. The order of the loop is RES -> PUMP ->
CPU -> RAD -> RES would this order really affect temp? I'm running a q9300 kentsfield on a p5e3 deluxe with 1066 ddr3 (2gigs). Any help would be appreciated.
 
Originally posted by: midnightfender
Ok to start off I'm using a swiftech water block with 1/2id tubing, a 350 gph pump
for a rad I'm using a heater core out of a chevy truck now idling I have temps about 40c and with load speedfan says I'm getting up to 60c. The order of the loop is RES -> PUMP ->
CPU -> RAD -> RES would this order really affect temp? I'm running a q9300 kentsfield on a p5e3 deluxe with 1066 ddr3 (2gigs). Any help would be appreciated.
Click to expand...

pictures.

im guessing bubble, bad ambients, or bad mount.
 
well I did use the cermic crap that the water block company sent because I couldn't find my arctic silver and I dunno about the bubble idea if it where the case what's the best way to flush it out of the rad? Its gunna be a few for the pics I'm at work at the moment. The ambient is cool right now there is a descent air flow plus the side case is off 🙂 I really appreciate the help.
 
Originally posted by: midnightfender
well I did use the cermic crap that the water block company sent because I couldn't find my arctic silver and I dunno about the bubble idea if it where the case what's the best way to flush it out of the rad? Its gunna be a few for the pics I'm at work at the moment. The ambient is cool right now there is a descent air flow plus the side case is off 🙂 I really appreciate the help.
Click to expand...

most definitely air bubble or bad mount. :

no tim has very little effect unless you used dried out toothpaste.

Keep us updated on pics. So i can tell you how to debug your issue.
 
As soon as I get home about 3pm est I'll drop some pics also how would I go about purging he air from the rad ? Dismount it and turn it so the ports face up? Its mounted horizontLly on my top 120 fans with the ports facing down.
 
Originally posted by: midnightfender
As soon as I get home about 3pm est I'll drop some pics also how would I go about purging he air from the rad ? Dismount it and turn it so the ports face up? Its mounted horizontLly on my top 120 fans with the ports facing down.
Click to expand...

flashing your pump so you give it burst of pressure, and then no pressure.

You can also try to pinch your tubing from time to time.

OR last menthod. Tilt your case from side to side while the pump is on.
 
Heres a pic of the inside of my case:

http://img362.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0032xu2.jpg]
img0032xu2.th.jpg
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lol can you make the picture bigger. And i think i found your problem.

it looks like you may have a lot of bubbles.
Your water shouldnt pour like that and agitate the surface.

try topping off, rebleed, and try again.

but bigger picture please.
 
http://i297.photobucket.com/al...ghtfender/IMG_0032.jpg
SUPA BIGGA ... Ok now the water lvl is higher than the top port and I turned my pump down so theres less air in the water. But stll having issues I took the rad right out and tipped it upside down and got some bubbles out of it but still no luck then I took and put 2 new fans pointing directly at the rad (120mm x2) and I couldnt even feel a bit of airflow through it so I feel what might be the problem is twofold, A. The rad has no airflow through it because its not made for this application and B. My pump was throwing water so fast it wasnt cooling it at all. Lemme know what you think guys(and gals) thanks a lot. -Mid-
 
Aigomorla told you right in getting the water level in the res higher than the input line. The added benefit is that it should quiet things down a little too.

Do you have the fans directly mounted to the rad? Do you have some kind of shroud? If the fans are just blowing towards the rad I doubt you have enough airflow. I've used a heater core before in my loop and it worked great but it did need a bit of airflow. What kind of 120mm fans are you using? IIRC, the thicker rads and heatercores needed the 38mm fans to get a sufficient amount of airflow. Some high cfm 25mm fans at the least.

Also, the water can't flow through the loop too quickly. It will scavenge the heat from the system just fine at high speeds. Kind of a common myth that the coolant can flow too quickly through the loop to cool effectively.
 
1. you originally had a bubble stuck in your rad. That possition is very difficult to bleed properly. You need to tilt it from time to time.

2. Since your not feeling any air exit, that means your fans are lacking, try upgrading fans. You probably need more static pressure though it.

3. IF all else fails, bad mount. 😛
 
I ordered a blackice rad from performance-pcs was about $50 so not a big loss the fans I have in there (the 120's) push about 80 cfm which I feel is pretty good. The rad Im using now really is hard to push air through ex. Putting my mouth up to it trying to blow air through it is actually not that easy ... kinda wierd.. but anyways as much as I can tell the rad isnt passing enoguth air through it to cool anything but the temps are staying at 42 - 45 idle and 55 - 60 under load which are hot by any means but I only have a couple days until i get the blackice rad. I tried the tipping the case removing the rad and tilting it to get the air out and all kinds of stuff still absolutly no change in temp. The only thing I havent tried is the remounting the water block which Ill try today.
 
Originally posted by: midnightfender
I ordered a blackice rad from performance-pcs was about $50 so not a big loss the fans I have in there (the 120's) push about 80 cfm which I feel is pretty good. The rad Im using now really is hard to push air through ex. Putting my mouth up to it trying to blow air through it is actually not that easy ... kinda wierd.. but anyways as much as I can tell the rad isnt passing enoguth air through it to cool anything but the temps are staying at 42 - 45 idle and 55 - 60 under load which are hot by any means but I only have a couple days until i get the blackice rad. I tried the tipping the case removing the rad and tilting it to get the air out and all kinds of stuff still absolutly no change in temp. The only thing I havent tried is the remounting the water block which Ill try today.
Click to expand...

I had a similar issue when I built my first loop in a P180..I had a PA160 rad but with my door closed and metal blocking air flow from my fan, I was choking the rad...no way to cool with poor airflow

so make sure you have good air source to the fans, and mount the fans on the rad with at least a gasket or shroud

 
Ok I replaced the rad with a blackice pro and remounted the water block temps still at 38 to 40c idle and there is NO air in the loop please give me any ideas I have a q9300 kentsfield on a p5e3 deluxe @wifi with a swiftech mcp655 pump and a swiftech apogee pro waterblock I cannot seem to figure out.
 
Originally posted by: nealh

I had a similar issue when I built my first loop in a P180..I had a PA160 rad but with my door closed and metal blocking air flow from my fan, I was choking the rad...no way to cool with poor airflow

so make sure you have good air source to the fans, and mount the fans on the rad with at least a gasket or shroud
Click to expand...

Are your temps better w/ the case side off? and what software are you using to read these temps? Try Real Temp.
What are your load temps running prime on all cores?
Are you overclocking or at stock? What is vcore set at?
Did you check your chip and waterblock for flat w/ a straight edge?
Set your pump and fans to the highest speed, more flow is better for both air and water.
 
i think your problem is with coretemp reporting everything 10C too high on yorkfields.

Also we need to see load temps not idle temps.
 
alright, so I have gone threw the entire cycle and even took my loop off of my comp and placed it on a comparable quad core setup and the loop dropped the temp of that of only little above ambient. So in conclussion I'm going to have to go with my sensors in my q9300 are just buggy as all hell. Ive had the thing running all weekend with it oced to 3.4 ghz and no problems my loop is cool the water temp is cool so unless I get some thermal stepping or shutdowns I'm gunna run with it. Oh and for those who asked my vcore is 1.25(stable min) and my temps on load where 60 61 57 60 supposedly...shrug still open for ideas
 
Originally posted by: midnightfender
alright, so I have gone threw the entire cycle and even took my loop off of my comp and placed it on a comparable quad core setup and the loop dropped the temp of that of only little above ambient. So in conclussion I'm going to have to go with my sensors in my q9300 are just buggy as all hell. Ive had the thing running all weekend with it oced to 3.4 ghz and no problems my loop is cool the water temp is cool so unless I get some thermal stepping or shutdowns I'm gunna run with it. Oh and for those who asked my vcore is 1.25(stable min) and my temps on load where 60 61 57 60 supposedly...shrug still open for ideas
Click to expand...

google a program called realtemp.

coretemp has a bad habit of reporting 10C higher on all 45nm yorkfield quads.

im thinkn this is your problem right now.
 
Originally posted by: midnightfender
I tried realtemp it had a 3 degree difference. Cooler but still not close to expected watercooling temps
Click to expand...

real temp said it was 3C difference?

thats wierd, because it should be 10C.

Reason is Coretemp takes it 105C
Real temp takes it at 95C

That should mean real temp and coretemp should be no less then 10C different. :\

Since its 3C im guessing something is making things hotter for you.


What do you have ziptied behind your home made reservoir?
 
Originally posted by: midnightfender
Nothing thats just to hold the res up. Its dead space behind it.
Click to expand...

okey im gonna have you do a coolant test.

What you need is a thermometer. The kind you put in your mouth to say AHHHH.. when your sick.

I need you to first put it right near the air intake of your fans. Take the messurement there.

That is called Ambients.

After you get that, i need you to drop that thermometer in your res. Can you uncap it? It looks like the top is a line feed. Did you fill it up?

That is called coolant temp.

I need you to record that. Now take your coolant temp - ambient = delta.

I need to know your delta to see if your system is being worked on.


You need to do this for both IDLE, and LOAD. Its a long process, yes i know.

Also when you LOAD your processor, you need to wait about 15-20min b4 you take coolant temp. It can take your water that long to reach max delta.

Also when you take IDLE you need to have your comp on for about 15-20 min.



The point of this test is to see if you have a mounting issue or not.
 
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