I would have to switch off and move the box for this. This is not possible today, but maybe tomorrow or some other day.
I am quite new to water cooling myself. I have a 240mm AIO running my 3570k @4.5ghz and a 280mm AIO still in the box for my next build. In the past I have always used 120mm air coolers. I still have the thermalright Ultra 120 and recently bought ($12) an upgrade kit for it to use on 115x motherboards. I have two ultra 120's circa 2007/08, one in use on a G4560 (max temps in low 40's).
The Coolermaster 212+ is based on the original Thermalright Ultra 120 and most of the current 120mm air coolers based on that design as well. They work well for OCing CPU's.
In my opinion custom loops are cool but not cost effective. Something a person who wants to have a custom loop builds for the sake of saying they have it or they did it. Not the most reliable parts for cooling solutions.
I personally think any 240mm AIO cooler is superior to any of the Air coolers. I am not a big fan of Noctura air cooling simply for the cost of the cooling solution. Based on my extensive experience with air cooling, I have found AIO liquid cooling to be superior. My 3570K @4.5ghz has never touched 60C on any core. With air cooling my temps on a dust free Xigmatek Gaia 120mm air cooler were mid 60's to high 60's. All with Arctic Silver 5 thermal paste. My AIO 240mm liquid cooler (3570K @4.5ghz) typically has temps at 50C or slightly below with a few cores in the low 50's. during heavy gameplay of BF1. I use Core Temp for my readings and the highest a core has hit on my 3570K was 59C. Typically the hot core is 53-56C in heavy gaming.
One of the arguments about water cooling is that the best air coolers can catch up to AIO air coolers after marathon gaming sessions 4 hours or more. I suspect that could be the case with 120mm air coolers but the 240mm air cooler seems to efficiently pump out the warm liquid to the radiator. In my liquid cooler it seems whenever the temps appear to get high mid 50's the liquid cooler pumps out the warm liquid filtering in much cooler liquid from the radiator.
If a person doesn't OC, there is no reason for liquid cooling solutions unless you are doing it for the cool factor. The useful life of a GPU is shorter than the life of a CPU. After a GPU is retired from a gaming system, you would have to reinstall the air cooling heatsink and fans. Problems typically occur in this process. Again all based on the skill of the computer builder. Taking off the good air cooling of GPU's could result in damage to the GPU, it happens. Typically those who do liquid cooling with CPU and GPU do it because they have a custom loop in their system.
When I installed my 240mm AIO cooler. I crafted a back plate for my GTX 970 to catch any leaks that may occur.
I'd agree with your opinion. The ATX standard is designed such that there is a massive amount of room around the CPU for a big tower cooler. You'll get some improvement with a AIO or custom water, but the benefit can be pretty marginal compared a good air cooler and the noise profile of a lot of AOIs is worse than a top air cooler.There is really no surprise that many AIOs can just so keep up with big air coolers. Just compare the total fin surface of typical AIOs and big air coolers. Result: The latter have the same amount of fin surface, in some cases even more.
The difference between AIOs and air coolers is that AIOs use flexible water filled tubes, not rigid heatpipes, to connect the cooling block with the radiator. Ideally, this is used to place the AIO's radiator into an aerodynamically optimal location.
The difference between custom water loops on one hand, and AIOs and air coolers on the other hand, is that humongous amounts of radiator surface can be added. Furthermore, there is more flexibility WRT which components to put a cooling block on. And it is possible to place the radiator outside of the computer case.
Also, let me stress again, watercooling a sub-120 W CPU does not make a lot of sense. But watercooling a 100 W+ GPU makes much sense, simply due to the space constraints around GPUs. Everytime when the question arises whether or not to watercool, the GPU should always be thought of first. The CPU should be an afterthought at most, unless we are talking about overclocked 8-core CPUs for example.
IMO.
sigh...
ok first off AIO != true watercooling.
A true water cooling is a system which uses a pump that will generate a flow greater then .75gpm.
Why? because if one does the math to thermo properly, the carrying potential of water gets closer to the apex of its heat curve as you approach .75gpm and pretty much flattens out as you reach 2gpm.
So that means the more flow one has in a LCS system past .75, the better optimized water gets until you hit about 2gpm, where diminished returns starts kicking you in the butt.
AIO's at best generate .25-.5gpm which puts there efficiency at the rock bottom.
At best one should only consider a AIO if you have height constants on a 6-8 heat pipe air cooler, as those will probably be a lot safer + make less noise, and have less potential of crying when something breaks and leaks all over your expensive hardware.
That being said, if were talking about an intel processor which is not hard soldered with IHS, watercooling basically brings almost no merits into our hobby. The resistance of the TIM in between the IHS and DIE on a LGA115x processor is so horrible, that watercooling will not give you an edge. So unless u want to Delid that cpu, i would not recommend a LCS system on that cpu, especially since the mosfets around the CPU require airflow, and that is again something which watercooling wont generate.
If were looking at LGA2011, thats a different story. With a good system, there is no way an aircooler or AIO can compete.
1.5gpm (the gold zone) has a carrying potential of 300W / degree C. That means it takes 300W of heat to make the water go up 1C.
Pair that up with a 120x3 radiator with 1800RRM, your system will bascially have equalibirum of 2-3C over ambient in a heat load of less then 300W.
But watercooling i feel has shifted more to GPU then CPU.
You net a heat reduction of load temps by 1/3-1/2.... that means those 65C dies will at best only be about 35-40C.
Full Cover blocks also cool RAM + VRMS, to extend the life of the card. It was stated that every 10C you lower a temp in an IC, you not only make the circuit more efficient, but you also double the life of the chip. But again, unless ur cooling a 1080, or a expensive top tier GPU, a full cover block is not worth it over an upgrade to the next platform..
So keeping something cooler, can in sense, net you a better clock in overclocking.
1070GTX (for example) should not be watercooled, as it is better to invest the $$$ of the full cover block to get a 1080GTX and air cool it.
I am quite new to water cooling myself. I have a 240mm AIO running my 3570k @4.5ghz and a 280mm AIO still in the box for my next build. In the past I have always used 120mm air coolers. I still have the thermalright Ultra 120 and recently bought ($12) an upgrade kit for it to use on 115x motherboards. I have two ultra 120's circa 2007/08, one in use on a G4560 (max temps in low 40's).
The Coolermaster 212+ is based on the original Thermalright Ultra 120 and most of the current 120mm air coolers based on that design as well. They work well for OCing CPU's.
In my opinion custom loops are cool but not cost effective. Something a person who wants to have a custom loop builds for the sake of saying they have it or they did it. Not the most reliable parts for cooling solutions.
I personally think any 240mm AIO cooler is superior to any of the Air coolers. I am not a big fan of Noctura air cooling simply for the cost of the cooling solution. Based on my extensive experience with air cooling, I have found AIO liquid cooling to be superior. My 3570K @4.5ghz has never touched 60C on any core. With air cooling my temps on a dust free Xigmatek Gaia 120mm air cooler were mid 60's to high 60's. All with Arctic Silver 5 thermal paste. My AIO 240mm liquid cooler (3570K @4.5ghz) typically has temps at 50C or slightly below with a few cores in the low 50's. during heavy gameplay of BF1. I use Core Temp for my readings and the highest a core has hit on my 3570K was 59C. Typically the hot core is 53-56C in heavy gaming.
One of the arguments about water cooling is that the best air coolers can catch up to AIO air coolers after marathon gaming sessions 4 hours or more. I suspect that could be the case with 120mm air coolers but the 240mm air cooler seems to efficiently pump out the warm liquid to the radiator. In my liquid cooler it seems whenever the temps appear to get high mid 50's the liquid cooler pumps out the warm liquid filtering in much cooler liquid from the radiator.
If a person doesn't OC, there is no reason for liquid cooling solutions unless you are doing it for the cool factor. The useful life of a GPU is shorter than the life of a CPU. After a GPU is retired from a gaming system, you would have to reinstall the air cooling heatsink and fans. Problems typically occur in this process. Again all based on the skill of the computer builder. Taking off the good air cooling of GPU's could result in damage to the GPU, it happens. Typically those who do liquid cooling with CPU and GPU do it because they have a custom loop in their system.
When I installed my 240mm AIO cooler. I crafted a back plate for my GTX 970 to catch any leaks that may occur.
I'm planning out a dual Xeon build for the next year. You got any pics of those coolers clearing the ram? My research shows that fan barely clears a plain memory module without a heatsink. I'd prefer to go air for this build and was thinking about using a pair of NH-D15's.
I have got NH-D15S with only one fan in the middle, hence no RAM conflict.
(The symmetric NH-D15 wouldn't fit on my board anyway, at least not the way I want them: Blowing upwards in parallel, not blowing front-to-back in series.)
As you can see, the two coolers only fit because they are asymmetric, and the left one leans to the left, and the right one to the right.
Cooling this system works very well because the top exhaust is not obstructed by a desk or shelf, hence the exhaust air is practically not circulating back into the front and back intakes.
The case provides only standoffs for ATX boards. To mount the SSI-EEB motherboard, I had to drill additional holes through the backplate and put aluminum rails at the top.