Water Cooling for 5820K

[Lepton87]

It's amazing what you guys can do for 2C less.... And here I thought I was crazy for paying as much for the cooling as for the CPU itself.

BonzaiDuck

I read somewhere that you want to watercool only your CPU if so, buy neither MO-RA3 nor dual pumps. For double the cost and 5x times more space taken you will get a temperature reduction in the margin of error, less than the variance in the TIM application. Really a 3x120mn radiator is all that is need for any CPU unless you want to run that MO-RA3 in the passive mode then it makes sense because it can handle an overclocked HW-E CPU just fine without fans. For my loop it hardly makes any difference if I turn the fans ON or not it just shows how much excess cooling capacity it has.

That radiator only makes sense with at least 2 high-end overclocked GPUs and a HEDT overclocked CPU.
ps. I hope I was wrong and you want to add a GPU to that radiator otherwise it is a waste. Arguably it is a waste with a one GPU as well unless it is a custom design that can gobble 500W of power after the overclock; I remember Asus ARES cards(2x285 that was a beast) and Matrix, good cards...

 

[BonzaiDuck]

I love my dual D5 res. I have them for two reasons, redundancy and sound. I run run both pumps on 2, and still get great flow rates much quieter than running two of them on 3 or higher when the house is dead silent at night.

Of course. That makes perfectly good sense. More head pressure allows trimming the pump-speed. Lower RPM means lower dBA. Just like tuning case-fans . . .

Lepton:

I'm not likely getting either the MO-RA3 or the Phobya external-model. I'd been contemplating a pair of 180mm fans with 200mm-square radiators. I'm also looking at 120- or 140mm-square radiators, and I'll look closely at anything between 60mm and 100mm even if I choose to lower my expectations.

But everything has to fit in a certain case; there has to be room for at least one radiator-fan assembly that has a push-pull sandwich. I may even go ahead and add fans to the external side of my case-panels or chassis, if it needs more space. I just won't be able to use my computer for a place to stack things. In fact, I could find another 30mm to extend the mid-tower height. I'd probably go to the metals shop across town and buy some "perf-steel" -- sheet steel with maybe 1/4" dia. ventilation holes, spaced apart just enough to insure strength of the box I would make for addition to the rear 2/3 of the case depth. In other words, the forward third of molded plastic is still originally at the highest point on the case.

And I can see the advantage of it, with rubber isolators close to the noise-making devices.

 

[Lepton87]

After just a few weeks a rather large amount of dust settled on the radiator which is unsettling. How will it look in a year? That got me thinking about dust filters.

Are there any available for my radiator? What can I use to mitigate the process of radiator getting dusty? Any ideas what can I use as air filters?

Moreover I had a problem with mounting those 180mm fans to the radiator as the screws are too short. I got over it by placing the fans between the fins and the housing of the radiator doing that allowed the fans to be in place without any screws but that wasn’t very firm so I reinforced it with the duct tape. It’s not pretty but it gets the job done. Here’s how it looks:

I know it is terrible, any ideas on how to properly mount the fans? The included screws are too short. I may try to buy some longer ones.

Normally the computer case is standing but I had to do something so it lays down. I’m going to test the temps and compare them with the case in the usual standing position. At the begging of the thread I wrote that the water block only included three screws for the 2011 socket so I ordered a 2011 mounting kit. Now I noticed that those screws aren’t identical to those include with the block they are too short as well.

I didn’t notice that because I used three original screws and one from the kit. For a good mounting pressure you only need two screws used across each other and as it turns s out you can’t properly mount the block with those screws from the kit. Fortunately I quickly found a solution, I used two springs on top of each other, it took some force to compress them enough to fasten the thumb screw to the threading but I did it and the mounting pressure on the lone screw is just as strong as the other ones. On the picture you can see on of those thumb screws higher than the rest. It is the one on the lower left in case you can’t see it.


I have lots of unused 120/140mm fans, easily enough for a push-pull configuration I’m waiting for the blocks for my titans and then test the temp of the coolant. If the delta is higher than 2-3C then I’m going to do that push-pull. I have lots of case fans that won’t be needed anymore. I just use one to handle the VRMs and maybe another for the drives.

 

[KaRLiToS]

Silverstone 180mm Fan Grill & Filter (5.99$)

This is what I used on my Mora, except they are 120mm.

 

[Lepton87]

Just installed a water block on my Titan and the results are strange... I only played for 5 minutes because I haven't slept in 24h and I'm tired after installing that block, so many screws etc. The other one is waiting for tomorrow. Also my amplifier stopped working if it broke down then a 1000$ goes down the toilet 🙁 Back to the results, 21C idle and 32C after a quick gaming session the other card was already at 90C with the fan at auto. The temperature sensor must be malfunctioning the card can't be this cool... Water block is EK Water Blocks EK-FC GTX 780 Ti / GTX 780 / GTX Titan - Acetal Nickel
https://www.cooling.pl/ek-water-blo...l,produkt,554554.html?from_category=28_55_124



One quick question. How do you propose I connect the other card? The tubing got a little messy but it's manageable but I don't know how to connect the other card. I saw some kind of a connector for blocks in SLI but I don't have anything like that and frankly I already spent close to 600$ for the cooling or even more. I don't even want to count, remember that I'm not as lucky as most of you and I can't but hardware without a tax which is 23% profit margins are a bit higher here as well which makes the hardware 30% more expensive than in the states or 2x if you compare to that MC CPU bundles 😉 I just hate reading about those deals... And the recommendations based on those as if anyone could just walk in there and buy...

 

[KaRLiToS]

The temperatures looks fine with the block. Depends which game you are playing.


http://www.madshrimps.be/articles/a...N-Full-Cover-Block-Kit-Review/3#axzz3P1MT6Ss2

Where do you get your watercooling gear?

 

[PhIlLy ChEeSe]

@aigom,
I think Karlitos comes off the wrong way sometimes, but he has a good eye. Example he called my old water cooled case "one of the worst set ups i ever seen", which is the truth as I didn't think about the tubes till I was in it. Plus hes got nice photography gear I'm pretty sure I seen in one of his photo's. I go for functionality, he goes for looks...............I like legs he prolly likes breasts! 🙂

 

[KaRLiToS]

@aigom,
I think Karlitos comes off the wrong way sometimes, but he has a good eye. Example he called my old water cooled case "one of the worst set ups i ever seen", which is the truth as I didn't think about the tubes till I was in it. Plus hes got nice photography gear I'm pretty sure I seen in one of his photo's. I go for functionality, he goes for looks...............I like legs he prolly likes breasts! 🙂

I never said your setup was one of the worst, just said it was weird with the pump above the reservoir and the pump hanging by the CPU with a 2 inches tubing. Outside of that, it looked just fine. ^_^

 

[Lepton87]

The temperature was so low that at first I thought that the card was not under load. Over a 50(60 even) degrees C reduction in the temperature is just amazing why don't we get that kind of reduction with CPUs? It was so low that at first I thought that the card was not under load... . I can think of 3 reasons:

1. The CPU coolers are already way better than the GPU coolers, installing the Noctua NH D14 on the titan should get a good reduction of the temperature, maybe like a 30C.

2. Bigger die which makes the heat density lower and the heat density is more important than the absolute amount of heat, at least if you have an abundant heat dissipation capacity. Very low delta between the coolant temperature and the ambient indicates that.

3. Bare die (GPU) , soldered IHS (HEDT series) shoddily glued IHS(4770, most of HW line-up?), glued IHS (4790K). Bare die is better then the latter two but if it's better than a soldered IHS is not universally agreed upon but I think getting an additional barrier between the heat source and the water block/cooler can't be good for the temperature on the other hand the IHS is much bigger than the die and the indium solder is many times better at conducting heat than even the IC diamond TIM that I use. In the case like 4770 it's not a matter of debate, simply delliding can get you better temperatures than the best water cooling loop you can build. Devil's Canon ameliorated the situation but I wonder how they will get away with using TIM if heat density keeps on increasing. Especially if they are going to include a gap like with the 4770. Leaving the gap there on the K models was like flipping the finger to the over-clockers.

Where do you get your watercooling gear?

local on-line shops mostly this one https://www.cooling.pl/ or auction site in the case of my second water block which I'm about to install and report how well it does against its brand new baby brother.

I'm looking for a good guide for overclocking the titan. I never bothered to increase the voltage more than the NV's sanctioned 37.5mV because the cooler couldn't handle that anyway, now I'm not held back by the temperature so I can push those babies a bit more.

ps. I didn't think about thermal pads, obviously the original pads that were included with the block were already used by the previous owner should I reuse the original thermal pads? I have a few left from the first block that I bought new as I haven't used all of them but it don't think that what's left will suffice for everything but it should be enough for VRMs so I will have to reuse only the memory pads.

The memory is fine without cooling on the other side of the card so I think the card should be just find reusing the original GDDR5 pads. They are taller then those included but I think they should flatten under pressure just fine.

 

[KaRLiToS]

Your 3 points are pretty valid. But in my opinion, if the GPUs get the most difference and much lower temperatures when watercooling, it is because the GPU cooler needs to handle: The GPU die, the VRMs and all the memory chips. The CPU cooler on the other side only needs to take care of the die. So putting a full cover block with many radiators will drastically reduce the temperatures of the graphic cards.

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I agree with you on the thermal pads, put some new ones on the VRMs and keep the old ones for the memory. I would change them all but if you can't get new ones rapidly, it is fine to re-use the memory ones.

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For overclocking the Titans. (Read the OP of both threads to learn more, you have everything there )

• http://www.overclock.net/t/1363440/official-nvidia-geforce-gtx-titan-owners-club/0_30
• http://www.overclock.net/t/1425102/...ts-unlocked-ncp4206-voltage-llc-mod-tool/0_30

Since you are not held back by temperatures anymore, just cranck the voltage to the max, power target to the max, then try to find stable clocks.
1.3 - 1.4v should not damage the card if properly cooled.

I recommend flashing BIOS for more fun. Skyn3t made some awsome BIOSes. Really easy to use. Just follow everystep to flash, there is a guide in the Titan Owners club.

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If you want to cool both cards and want to use SLI connectors, or terminals or bridge, you will have to get two identical GPU blocks.

https://www.cooling.pl/zlaczka-sli-3-sloty-silver-ph,produkt,552669.html?from_category=28_137_202
https://www.cooling.pl/zlaczka-sli-3-sloty-black-ph,produkt,552681.html?from_category=28_137_202

Or even better, my personnal choice:
https://www.cooling.pl/ek-water-blocks-ekfc-terminal-dual-parallel-3slot,produkt,554397.html

Manual : http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109868072.pdf

Will give something like this

 

[Lepton87]

Will give something like this

This looks very neat but in the future I want to add a third Titan but I guess I could always connect the third one with the tubing. For now I'll refrain from buying anything and connect the blocks with the tubing serially, my pump can handle that. I kind of overspent on that water-cooling already. I finished mounting the block now I'll just have to connect it. This one is a bit smaller but I guess it should work almost as well. I didn't have to reuse the thermal pads after all, the seller not only cleaned the block very thoroughly but also added the leftover thermal pads so along with the leftovers from my first block it sufficed. Nice, I didn't expect that.

One is EK-FC Titan and the other one is EK-FC 780Ti but it fits the Titan as well.



It covers a bit less of the card but it cools all the same spots as the other one.

UPDATE: I installed everything and suddenly the pump just started working very loudly... At first it didn't start at all. A few days ago while measuring the temperature a thermometer broke in the reservoir, I didn't see any glass falling into the coolant but I have no other explanation if somehow a piece of it stuck in the pump is there a way to check it and remove it? Any other explanation why something like that could happen after attaching another block to the loop?

UPDATE2: The pump is definitely broken... 🙁 Also that EK FC terminal system is really needed.

https://www.cooling.pl/ek-water-blocks-ekfc-terminal-triple-z77-parallel,produkt,554396.html

Does this one have appropriate spacing for 3 cards for my mobo also? I'm going to use 2 for now but I want to be prepared for 3. That freaking pump surely is expensive 🙁

 

[aigomorla]

, I didn't see any glass falling into the coolant but I have no other explanation if somehow a piece of it stuck in the pump is there a way to check it and remove it? Any other explanation why something like that could happen after attaching another block to the loop?

you need to disassemble the entire rad / pump assembly.

then what you get is something that looks like this:

The impeller, is attached via magnet so you can pull it right off.
Clean the impeller chamber, and inspect for any damage.

Otherwise if you dont see any damage, it could be just a bad pump and a RMA is only needed.


BTW i hope your not recycling the coolant each time.
You contaminate it each time you drain and refill via same coolant, which makes the coolant near useless.
It loses its non conductive properties, and picks up impurities.

You really should move to straight distilled until you got a working setup problem free, then drain and refill with the premix coolant.

 

[KaRLiToS]

( Also that EK FC terminal system is really needed.

https://www.cooling.pl/ek-water-blocks-ekfc-terminal-triple-z77-parallel,produkt,554396.html

Does this one have appropriate spacing for 3 cards for my mobo also? I'm going to use 2 for now but I want to be prepared for 3. That freaking pump surely is expensive 🙁

No, you either need this one

• Triple Parallel EK Terminal https://www.cooling.pl/ek-water-blocks-ekfc-terminal-triple-parallel,produkt,554364.html

Or this one

• Triple serial EK terminal https://www.cooling.pl/ek-water-blocks-ekfc-terminal-triple-serial,produkt,554371.html

But the thing is, if you want to use the triple terminal with two cards, you will need to put a "blank" on the middle slot while you don't have the third cards.

For the serial terminal, you will need this blank: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga...fc-terminals/ek-fc-terminal-blank-serial.html

For the parallel terminal , you'll need this blank: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga...-terminals/ek-fc-terminal-blank-parallel.html

I suggest parallel for 3 cards, you might not need a second pump using parallel flow to feed your cards.

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I agree with aigomoria, NEVER re-use the same coolant because it will contaminate your loop. I'm so paranoid with that that I don't even re-use my openned distilled water bottles from my previous fills. I always take brand new bottles never openned. As soon as distilled water touch the air, it absorbs all kind of toxin and carbon dioxide. It is best not to leave the containers open.

Please use water temperature sensor also if you can.

https://www.cooling.pl/phobya-temperature-sensor-g14-ig14-lcd,produkt,552630.html?from_category=33

 

[Lepton87]

So another expense, great, this water-cooling is going to get me broke at this rate in no time. Should I add something into the water to prevent the algae growth?

 

[thilanliyan]

The inline temp sensor would have been a good investment. I put one into my loop recently and it definitely helps with monitoring the loop.

 

[Lepton87]

Just as I thought there was glass in the impeller from that broken thermometer.

 

[aigomorla]

Just as I thought there was glass in the properell from that broken thermometer.

remove glass...
Clean impeller housing...
Put impeller back inside housing..

Put a little bit of water inside impeller housing...
Plug in pump to see if impeller will spin...

Dont leave pump on longer then 5 sec.. all you need to do is verify the impeller will spin.


Also i found a store for you in the EU.
http://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/wiki/retailers

^ im sure one of those EU stores are close to you...

 

[Lepton87]

remove glass...
Clean impeller housing...
Put impeller back inside housing..

Put a little bit of water inside impeller housing...
Plug in pump to see if impeller will spin...

Dont leave pump on longer then 5 sec.. all you need to do is verify the impeller will spin.


Also i found a store for you in the EU.
http://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/wiki/retailers

^ im sure one of those EU stores are close to you...

I had already removed that glass by the time I posted. Everything is working now.

I connected the cards with the tubing and the pump handles that just fine, adding the second card to the loop didn't have any impact on the temperature. Both cars are under 35C at load. 1.1GHz 1.2V, I'm exploring how to change the voltage now.

 

[Lepton87]

I can't get voltage unlock working in afterburner 4.1.0, does that line still work?

I confirm that I am aware of unofficial overclocking limitations and fully understand that MSI will not provide me any support on it

It should work up to 1.3V with just AB, shouldn't it?

 

[BonzaiDuck]

I can't get voltage unlock working in afterburner 4.1.0, does that line still work?



It should work up to 1.3V with just AB, shouldn't it?

What temperatures do you get under load now for the 5820K @ 4.4 and 1.30V?

We all have our differing focus of interest with your thread.

 

[Lepton87]

What temperatures do you get under load now for the 5820K @ 4.4 and 1.30V?

We all have our differing focus of interest with your thread.

From what I remember it was about 90C in OCCT. 28C ambient, I'll check later, I reset the CMOS and didn't remember to save the OC profile. I'm having problems with my hard drives until I resolve that I'm at stock.

 

[Lepton87]

I've been thinking about buying a case because right now the whole computer looks messy. I remember that I read somewhere in this thread that there are cases which can fit my radiator internally... Any links? Or at least the names?

 

[BonzaiDuck]

I've been thinking about buying a case because right now the whole computer looks messy. I remember that I read somewhere in this thread that there are cases which can fit my radiator internally... Any links? Or at least the names?

I'll refer to the thread I'd previously started to inquire about the MO-RA3.

AigoMorla had mentioned "Mountain Mods" cases, which are huge, variously configurable with motherboard placement options, fans, radiators.

But I don't think you'll fit an MO-RA3 into one. Maybe . . . I can't say.

Back to that thread . . . I could see how one could modify a midtower case to literally widen it by rebuilding a side-panel to include the radiator. In my idea, you would add flat aluminum bars to the bottom of the case, extended on one side so that the radiator would rest on the bars. The bars would then be fitted with 2.5 or 3" braked double caster wheels, raising the assembly off the floor and offering the convenience to "roll it around."

It would be . . . a bit unsightly. You would be able to have case interior access, as long as the hoses had sufficient length and you could lift the "side-panel-radiator" assembly away from the case chassis for access just as you would with the standard side-panel.

Sheet-metal work, my man! Sweat, metal-dust, filings -- noise and irritated neighbors! Tools! Worn out cutting discs! Drilling for screw-taps and pop-rivets! Time and effort! And no guarantee that you'd be happy with the result!

 

[aigomorla]

a case to fit your Mora internally will cost you at least 600 to 800 dollars.

That is why you don't see many people doing it.

Phobia makes one as well as mountain mods and case labs.

 

[Lepton87]

a case to fit your Mora internally will cost you at least 600 to 800 dollars.

That is why you don't see many people doing it.

Phobia makes one as well as mountain mods and case labs.

I've been expecting the price to be in that range. I'm having a hard time finding any of the cases you mentioned available for sale though 🙁 Maybe I'll just mount it externally to my wall because I don't like it standing there without even feet because they don't include any kind of stand, feet are available for purchase separately at that price this is ridiculous. Anyway, I didn't know about that before I bought otherwise I would've had ordered the stand/feet.