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Unofficial Barton 2500/2800/3000/3200 thread

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Originally posted by: Blooz1
I remember a while back that a few people made the observation that Bartons OC'd better after a few days of running as opposed to "right out of the box". Have any of you people found that to be true?

I've been running SETI on my 1700 DUT, and I'd like to get a 2500 to be able to run at lower voltage than my present 1.8V. I'm also curious as to whether the extra cache would have any effect with the 3.03 SETI client...

Yupper! My Seti@home dropped about 1/4 off of the time required to process a result when I went to a Barton chip.

 
Originally posted by: voss
So Megatomic, the 53C temp under 100% load is the reading from your motherboards sensor? Do you know what the CPU's die temp is?

Which program are you using to monitor the temps?
I don't know what the direct die temp. is. Epox dropped direct die temp. readings when users of the 8K3A+ complained of "high" CPU temps. and inappropriately RMAd perfectly good boards. To monitor temps. I actually use 2 applications: MBM 5.3.3.0 and AIDA32. Both of them read out identical values so either their both wrong in the same way or they are both right.

By the way, the temp. here in VA went up by a bit and the ambient temp. in my computer den is up a few degrees. With my case temp. at 36C my max. CPU temp. went up to 55C. But... my CPU is now overclocked to 12.5 x 175MHz for 2.19GHz so it was working harder too. I'm really pleased with this overclock. Prime95 stable for over 9 hours at this setup. :beer:
 
Running a 2500 on an asus a7n8x ver. 2.0 using slk800 w/ys tech 92mm. Tried many variation for oc'ing, 11x190 is about it for default voltage. It all does well at 11x200 @ default voltage, but 3dmark kicks me out. Now at 11x200 @ 1.7 and like a rock. 🙂

Usually under 40c (34-40) folding or p95.
 
2500+ barton on a kt333 75DRV5-Soltek . 166 x 12.5 1.70v 2097Mhz.

ABS2 :43c idle,46 load.
Die Temp is off the hook sometimes @ 52c-58c . This is with a alpha pal heat sink and a Thermaltake fan @ 36 CFM airflow.

With the case open and with the alpha pal, I have no idea why the die temp is so high. I even had my pc-technician friend install it for me again to see if I screwed up. Same temps.

I wish I invested money into a nforce2 mobo. However with the athlon 64's coming up, maybe it was a good choice to wait.
 
Megatonic; I'm using MBM 5.3.3.0 also. So your 55C is the socket temp... but who knows exactly how each manufacturer setup their sensors. We really can't compare temps on different boards, esspecially with different ambient room temps.

Regs; I am getting up to 58C die temps under load also and I though that was too high as well, but my socket temp is 47-48C. Usual the die is around 55C under load. Thi seems more reasonable to me now, esspecially as most people only report their socket temps.

 
We really can't compare temps on different boards, esspecially with different ambient room temps.

Exactly. On 85 degree days (like today) without the AC on the temp rockets up 5-8c. However when the room temp is between 65-70 degrees, the cpu temp is a good deal lower.
 
I think I increased my vcore to 1.7 needlessly. So Ill drop it back down to 1.65 and see if that can't knock off 1-2c degrees. I've read all your posts and you have your 200 FSB's running at stock voltages, so hopefully I don't need it for the 12.5 multiplier.
 
new barton 2500+ came in today or willl be in today... out for delivery on the fedex truck 🙂

i'll give it a go tonight!
 
it's here...

interesting... i was supposed to get a 0317XPMW

instead, i got a 0314MPMW...

oh well... will give this a go a little later..

AXDA2500DKV4D
Y821348250179
AQXDA0314MPMW

 
Got a Barton 2500, 1 gig of Kingston value ram, and the new Biostar Nforce 2 Ultra 400 mobo. running it right now at 11 X 202 for 2222 mhz Temps are around 65 under heavy load, low 50's, upper 40's when just sitting on the desktop not doin much.

Seems stable so far, got through 3D Mark 03 without a problem, (got a score of 5396 with my radeon 9700 pro) gonna go prime95 tonight.
 
so far after almost 6 hours of prime at 1.75 volts, no errors 🙂

oh 2.3 ghz

wow, .1 volts better than my other...

this one actual boots at 2.4 ghz.... just have to find a voltage that works ..
 
okay 2.3 ghz passed at 1.75 volts...

seems like 2.4 ghz is going to be a pain...

1.85 fails in 3 minutes...
1.875 fails in 3 minutes..

giving it a go now at 1.9 volts... ugh...

if worst comes to worst i can always return this one because gameve sent me the wrong one...

they were supposed to send a 0317XPMW but sent me a 0314MPMW....

hmm.... let's see if it'll do 2.4 @ 1.9... i hope it does! then i can have some real fun running benchies with this baby!

🙂

 
*pointing his index @ Shimmishim* this guy is making me nervous everyday!!! it's like a good movie or a best seller that, at the good moment, you get "to be continued" or some long advertisement! LOL

 
Originally posted by: Dustswirl
*pointing his index @ Shimmishim* this guy is making me nervous everyday!!! it's like a good movie or a best seller that, at the good moment, you get "to be continued" or some long advertisement! LOL

🙂

so yeah.... over an hour later and prime is still going strong...

temps are getting up there but.. that's okay...

i think i'll keep this 1700+ @ 2.5 ghz in a drawer for a rainy day...

argh... need... more... money... just.. purchased.... $800... mini... dv... camcorder... (shoot, i could have built a nice p4 system with that money! or bought my prommie)... oh welll... guess these will just have to wait a few more months!

argh... what can i sell? 🙂
 
thats some sweet overclock shimm...im a first timer to overclocking and im thinking of getting the 2500 barton. is there a step by step guide of how i should overclock? or should i just keep tinkering with the fsb? or the multiplier? and after that the voltage?
 
Originally posted by: warriorfan23
thats some sweet overclock shimm...im a first timer to overclocking and im thinking of getting the 2500 barton. is there a step by step guide of how i should overclock? or should i just keep tinkering with the fsb? or the multiplier? and after that the voltage?

hmm....

there's a guide around here somewhere.... someone hook this man up with a guide!!!

🙂

 
2.5 would be insane. You are going to need water cooling for that voltage. People have stated around here they got their 1700+'s to oc around 2.5. I just think it will be killing the life of the cpu significantly at those voltages.

But tell me if it works? K thanks. lol :evil:
 
Originally posted by: Regs
2.5 would be insane. You going to need water cooling for that voltage. People have stated around here they got their 1700+'s to oc around 2.5. I just think it will be killing the life of the cpu significantly at those voltages.

But tell me if it works? K thanks. lol :evil:

hahaha... i AM on water 🙂

btw, i AM one of those people that have a 1700+ @ 2.5 ghz

to me, as long as i keep it under 1.85 actual voltage and lower, it should last me long enough until my next upgrade....

so yeah... my next upgrade HUGE system upgrade (meaning new board, memory, the works) won't be until amd releases a 4.0 ghz processor (glad i went the amd route or else i'd be upgrading soon using intel)....

it took them almost two years to get from a 1 tbird 1 ghz to a tbred 2.0 ghz so...

hopefully their technology will slow down so i can keep this thing for like 2 years!!!

🙂
 
****newbie alert****


Newegg has 3 barton 3000+ chips for sale:

OEM FSB 333
Retail 333
OEM FSB 400.

I just ordered an asus nforce2 deluxe board with 2x256 pc3200 Corsair XMS LL RAM. Should I go ahead and get the 3000+ with the 400 MHz FSB? will there be a substantial difference in performance?
 
Originally posted by: Dedpuhl
****newbie alert****


Newegg has 3 barton 3000+ chips for sale:

OEM FSB 333
Retail 333
OEM FSB 400.

I just ordered an asus nforce2 deluxe board with 2x256 pc3200 Corsair XMS LL RAM. Should I go ahead and get the 3000+ with the 400 MHz FSB? will there be a substantial difference in performance?

why not get a 2500+, OC it to 400mhz fsb, and save yourself a lot of money?
 
well one thing is that it'll run 2.2 or 2.1 ghz @ 1.65 volts which isn't a guarantee with the 2500+

and some people don't overclock don't forget! 🙂
 
That's odd, I don't have overvoltage protection on my NF7 v2.

2600 mhz and still going strong after, what is it, 2-3 weeks?
 
Got my 2500+ retail from newegg today. Please lmk what you guys think about this stepping:


AQXEA 0323VPUW


Thanks
 
Ok, this probably seems like a dumb question but here goes. I noticed most of you people seem to be running nonstock multipliers. The 2500+ is 11x166 for 1.83Ghz out of the box. Are all of you people physically unlocking your chips or can you do this in the BIOS?

I just bought:
XP2500+ retail
2x512MB Corsair Value RAM, CL2.5
Epox 8RDA+
SLK800u heatsink
92mm Zalman fan

I was under the impression that the combination of the heatsink and the fan could make for a very high overclock. Using the stock multiplier of 11, I could get 2.2Ghz out of the chip by raising the FSB to 400Mhz to sync with my RAM. The RAM isnt the highest performance or most expensive memory around, so I'm not sure how much it could be pushed past that.

So basically two more questions:

How how do you guys think I could push the FSB on the chip given my memory, heatsink, and fan?
Do I need a physical kit to unlock the multiplier or can I do this from the BIOS?

Thanks in advance.
 
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