Underpowering a GTX 680

[BallaTheFeared]

"meh"

For your system...

I see 430w models listed, but I think they have more 12v capacity than you do.

However I think he was a bit too generous with his wattages.

Here is my system:

His program only goes up to 40% OC on the cpu, I run 55% OC.

His program only allows overvolting, no actual %, and I'm sure he's not accounting for the 57% overclock core and 30% memory OC I put through them, not to mention mine are modded to allow higher than stock 1087mv maximum.

All the while I'm doing it on a 850 watt 70A (840w 12v) PSU.


It's up to you OP, I'd try it see what happens, if you want turn power tune down to -32%, disable HT, and unhook any fans/drives you don't need. You could also set a fps limiter and underclock the card as well.

 

[toyota]

"I'd try it see what happens"

lol, this is exactly why I do not buy used or even open box pc components.

 

[BallaTheFeared]

lol, you can't have your cake and eat it too.

 

[toyota]

lol, you can't have your cake and eat it too.

not sure how that applies here

 

[Puppies04]

well I disagree. BEST case scenario is that he pushes the crap of that entry level psu.

So pulling 300W through a 430W PSU is pushing the crap out of it? I think you better get a 1200W PSU for that GTX570 "just in case"

 

[Concillian]

I think the problem for you "using a cheap Kill-A-Watt". lol

What exactly are you expecting someone to measure system wattage with?

Regardless, my kill-a-watt agrees with my smartmeter to the number of significant digits the smartmeter reads. If it's close enough that it agrees with what the power company uses to determine billing amounts, then it's good enough for an average user to estimate consumption with.

By the way, my 4GHz i3-530 and 5770 is in the same ballpark on power consumption. Before I got the 80+ gold power supply I could push it over 200W with Furmark, but since I got the 80+ gold PSU, Furmark tops out under 200W. Normal gaming is in the 120W range for WoW @ 1920x1200 no AA with a 60FPS cap up to ~150W in more demanding games.

 

[BallaTheFeared]

not sure how that applies here

It means you can't make an omelet without breaking a few eggs.

 

[toyota]

So pulling 300W through a 430W PSU is pushing the crap out of it? I think you better get a 1200W PSU for that GTX570 "just in case"

why don't you actually check the specs of his "430 watt" psu before making a smart aleck comment? it can handle a max of 336 watts on the 12v line which is where about 95% of the power will need to come from.

and its a entry level psu that makes that rating at only 30 C which may not be very realistic so NO I do not trust it to be put at around 90% load.

 

[BallaTheFeared]

Efficiency doesn't mean anything, at least not in how you're trying to use it. If it's rated for 330+ watts it will deliver it, the only difference is how much power it draws to make it.

 

[toyota]

Efficiency doesn't mean anything, at least not in how you're trying to use it. If it's rated for 330+ watts it will deliver it, the only difference is how much power it draws to make it.

you sure about that? from I understand that rating means it may not be able to make its advertised wattage at higher temps.

 

[BallaTheFeared]

Yes I'm sure

 

[toyota]

Yes I'm sure

point me to something saying that please. I know in the past I saw reviewer comments saying that cheap psus can get away with claiming higher wattage because they use unrealistic temps like 30C. that meant in reality that the psu would usually NOT deliver its full advertised wattage at higher temps.

 

[BallaTheFeared]

You're confusing "Peak Output" with what modern quality PSU are rated as.

 

[tweakboy]

That 430w psu there is no way it will work. Unless its a top brand and has multiple 12v rails.

Your 430w Does that thing even have SATA connectors and PCIe connectors ?

If your gonna give it a try, I promise you it will crash or freeze or shutdown ,,, Isnt 430w soo 2006 ............... what brand is it ,, what ampage does it give ? Also your risking of your PSU to blow up... cuz if the 680 wants good railings not cheap PSUs.

Its not gonna happen. At max youll get 1 minute or less of gameplay. Prove me wrong !!!

 

[BallaTheFeared]

lol

 

[Rvenger]

That 430w psu there is no way it will work. Unless its a top brand and has multiple 12v rails.

Your 430w Does that thing even have SATA connectors and PCIe connectors ?

If your gonna give it a try, I promise you it will crash or freeze or shutdown ,,, Isnt 430w soo 2006 ............... what brand is it ,, what ampage does it give ? Also your risking of your PSU to blow up... cuz if the 680 wants good railings not cheap PSUs.

Its not gonna happen. At max youll get 1 minute or less of gameplay. Prove me wrong !!!

Multiple rails does not mean its better and I am not going to comment on the rest of this, sorry.

I would at least keep the GTX680 at a minimum of 500w.

 

[lehtv]

I would not try it, not with a new PSU on the way. It may or may not work fine, and that exactly is the problem right there - you can't know for certain. With a new powerful PSU, you will know for certain, unless the unit is faulty.

 

[BallaTheFeared]

Kaboom!

 

[toyota]

You're confusing "Peak Output" with what modern quality PSU are rated as.

no it appears I was right about that. I asked on a couple of other forums and just checked with a friend of mine that is an engineer. if a power supply claims to make its wattage at 30C then that means at higher temps it indeed may not be able to make it's rated wattage.

 

[BallaTheFeared]

Are you sure they aren't confusing wattage with efficiency?

Doesn't matter what temp Johnny tests, cold or hot, he's always able to put 853w through a 850w PSU. The only thing that changes is the efficiency.

 

[toyota]

never mind

 

[Tempered81]

Toyota, why argue with folks who are new to this forum; you know better. You are being faced with JG graphs and PSU Calc screens as undeniable evidence for counter-proof.

Don't you know that electronics get hotter, only efficiency changes? Sheesh, DUh! Engineers know nothing, get real.

 

[BallaTheFeared]

Toyota, why argue with folks who are new to this forum; you know better. You are being faced with JG graphs and PSU Calc screens as undeniable evidence for counter-proof.

Don't you know that electronics get hotter, only efficiency changes? Sheesh, DUh! Engineers know nothing, get real.

Gee golly yeah, I better back off now that a no name poster on a forum shot down JG and Phaedrus2129.

Who are those people, everyone knows Tempered81 though... :whiste:

 

[toyota]

Gee golly yeah, I better back off now that a no name poster on a forum shot down JG and Phaedrus2129.

Who are those people, everyone knows Tempered81 though... :whiste:

you are trying to claim your graphs go against what I saying but they dont. I also remember that on one of the power supply sites it was said to not let cheap oem power supply ratings fool you because they are typically rated for 25C and under real world temps they cannot deliver that rated wattage.



EDIT: jonnyGURU himself just linked me to his sticky that says this

Power supplies can perform differently depending on the temperature at which they are operating at. When a power supply is rated for it's total output wattage, it is rated to do so at a particular temperature. Anything beyond this temperature may take away from the power supply's capability. A power supply that is rated to put out 550W at 25°C or 30°C (room temperature) may only be able to put out 75% of that at 40°C or 50°C (actual operating temperature). This difference is called the "de-rating curve". A normal operating temperature for a power supply is 40°C.

so that settles that. that is the main reason that I tell people with cheaper or especially oem power supplies that they don't always have as much power to work with as they think.

 

[Jaydip]

The good power supplies typically have operating temperature from 10°C - 50°C.Anything below or above results in decreased efficiency.