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Time to start learning how to do some maintenance work

lothar

Diamond Member
I have never changed oil before, I don't know how to change/rotate tires, or even fix a flat.
The only thing I know about cars is checking the oil level, adding oil/washer fluid.
Where do I start?
My car: 2009 Accord EX-L V6
My mom: Will be getting a 2010 Toyota 4Runner soon so I want parts that can be used on both vehicles.

Here's what I've done so far.
Since there's no Haynes manual for my vehicle yet and I was tired of waiting, I ordered a CD service manual from ebay for $50 (probably pirated crap, but we'll see)

So far I need to buy the following:
Safety glasses: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Gloves: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Not sure if I need this or not...but since I'm a newb, I'm afraid of tearing my knuckles.

Ramps: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product__6011659-P_N3400_T|GRP2042____
Best price anywhere I've seen...Not sure if I need 12,000 for my accord, but if Amazon is selling the 8,000 for the same price as a 12,000 there, why not get it from there?

Wheel Choke: http://www.amazon.com/Blitz-11930-Hu...=pd_sim_auto_2

Torque wrench: http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Quality-Fo...ref=pd_cp_hi_1

Oil filter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ef=oss_product

Oil drain pan: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ef=oss_product

Tire guage: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ef=oss_product

Lug wrench: http://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Automo...8&s=automotive
I wanted to get the 4 way cross types...Couldn't help but notice this is a top seller on Amazon. What's so special about it? I will only buy 1 lug wrench...That or a 4 way one...Which one?

Jackstands: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Floorjack: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...-Trolley-Jack-Torin_9040021-P_N3397_T|GRP2042____
People say don't go cheap here but Jesus...Floor jacks are freaking expensive.
I was thinking about getting this combo at Sears...Would it work for both my Accord and a 4Runner? I don't want to get 2 different jacks/jackstands.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...8&blockType=G8
If there is no hope on finding a combo that would work great for both, I may just consider one of these for my accord only, since it doesn't seem cheap like the other $20 jack above.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...&blockType=G12
http://www.amazon.com/Wilmar-W1614-T...=pd_sim_auto_3


Tool kit. How do I know which I need? There are the regular and the "million" pieces toolkit. I don't want to waste money on pieces I may never use.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...&sName=&mv=cmp
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...7154000P?mv=rr

This whole car thing seems to be an expensive hobby after looking at all these expenses...How do you guys do it?
 
as far as the toolkit, the 204pc comes with more sockets/wrenches/hex keys, etc. since you have a japanese car, i would hope/expect that everything you need will be metric.

for the floorjacks, as long as the jack can extend high enough for the 4runner, i don't see why you couldn't use it (but please check to be sure. i have no experience doing maintenance on SUVs at all).

you may want to get an oil filter wrench, since the filters tighten with time. they're like $5.

doing your own maintenance can save you $$ in the long run, though the especially complicated things are best left to the brave and/or professional mechanic (see halik's thread on his S4; and i know ZV does basically everything on his porsches).
 
This whole car thing seems to be an expensive hobby after looking at all these expenses...How do you guys do it?

Most people don't buy all that stuff at once, just a tool or part when they're needed.


You bought a pirated service manual for $50??? I know toyota's service site has 2 or 3 day subscriptions for ~$15 and you can download all you want. I think Honda has a similar service.
 
Most people don't buy all that stuff at once, just a tool or part when they're needed.


You bought a pirated service manual for $50??? I know toyota's service site has 2 or 3 day subscriptions for ~$15 and you can download all you want. I think Honda has a similar service.

Didn't know that you could download the entire section for a few days. I assumed they had some sort of DRM involved or something. I searched Driveaccord.net and kept getting pointed to some $120 book...Searched eBay and automatically assumed $50 was a bargain.
If Honda indeed does have a similar service, then failboat.

I'm also not sure if it's pirated or not since I have no evidence...just saying maybe it is? I'll know in about 2 weeks after I recieve it.
 
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as far as the toolkit, the 204pc comes with more sockets/wrenches/hex keys, etc. since you have a japanese car, i would hope/expect that everything you need will be metric.

for the floorjacks, as long as the jack can extend high enough for the 4runner, i don't see why you couldn't use it (but please check to be sure. i have no experience doing maintenance on SUVs at all).

you may want to get an oil filter wrench, since the filters tighten with time. they're like $5.

doing your own maintenance can save you $$ in the long run, though the especially complicated things are best left to the brave and/or professional mechanic (see halik's thread on his S4; and i know ZV does basically everything on his porsches).

I got the Honda OEM wrench/socket crap or whatever...
http://www.handa-accessories.com/accmaint08.html
I need it to remove the OEM filter, however I have already ordered PureOne Purlator filters. I suppose I can always get those $10 "universal" oil filter wrench I saw on Amazon which should be able to remove the PureOne Purlator filters I will use.

Ranking in order of difficulty:
Changing Oil.
Rotating Tires.
What's the next easiest job after those two?

What difficulty does changing brakes fall under?
 
If all you will be doing primarily is oil changes you can probably skip the floor jack and jackstands for now, the ramps you linked should be enough lift. And if you decide to get a floor jack and jack stands you don't need the ramps.

And also no need to buy a set of tools right off the bat, you will end up with 3 or 4 tools you need and 201 that you don't. For oil changes all you really need is a large crecent wrench(or open end wrench that fits the drain plug) and an oil filter wrench and a funnel. Buy individual tools as you need them. If you must buy a set get a small 3/8" socket set with a rachet and a handful of sockets, and perhaps a small set of screwdrivers

http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10155_12602_00934554000P?vName=Tools+%26+Equipment&cName=Hand+Tools&sName=Tools+Sets
 
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Ranking in order of difficulty:
Changing Oil.
Rotating Tires.
What's the next easiest job after those two?

What difficulty does changing brakes fall under?


Next easiest job after Oil and tires is probably changing belts and hoses

If all your brakes are disc brakes, changing brake pads is fairly easy, normally goes something like this
1. Jack up car
2. Remove wheel
3. Loosen two allen head bolts holding brake caliper
4. Remove caliper
5. Relieve hydrolic pressure by opening brake fluid drain valve
6. Remove old brake pads
7. Compress piston in caliper with a C clamp
8. Install new brake pads
9. Reinstall caliper
10 Add brake fluid to the master cylinder and repressure, bleeding air out of the lines as necessary

This is assuming the brake rotors are not damaged, if they are they need to be removed and taken to a machine shop for resurfacing

And if your vehicle has drum brakes, it gets a little more complex
 
If all you will be doing primarily is oil changes you can probably skip the floor jack and jackstands for now, the ramps you linked should be enough lift. And if you decide to get a floor jack and jack stands you don't need the ramps.

And also no need to buy a set of tools right off the bat, you will end up with 3 or 4 tools you need and 201 that you don't. For oil changes all you really need is a large crecent wrench(or open end wrench that fits the drain plug) and an oil filter wrench and a funnel. Buy individual tools as you need them. If you must buy a set get a small 3/8" socket set with a rachet and a handful of sockets, and perhaps a small set of screwdrivers

Need to do oil change and tire rotation. My car now has 6,791 in mileage.
I didn't change it early because I was adviced not to change the factory fill oil before Maintenance Minder tells me. They say it has special additives that are necessary for the proper break-in of the engine.
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=40376
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=86

My maintenance minder has now reached 5% oil life and also recommends tire rotation.
 
Next easiest job after Oil and tires is probably changing belts and hoses

If all your brakes are disc brakes, changing brake pads is fairly easy, normally goes something like this
1. Jack up car
2. Remove wheel
3. Loosen two allen head bolts holding brake caliper
4. Remove caliper
5. Relieve hydrolic pressure by opening brake fluid drain valve
6. Remove old brake pads
7. Compress piston in caliper with a C clamp
8. Install new brake pads
9. Reinstall caliper
10 Add brake fluid to the master cylinder and repressure, bleeding air out of the lines as necessary

This is assuming the brake rotors are not damaged, if they are they need to be removed and taken to a machine shop for resurfacing

And if your vehicle has drum brakes, it gets a little more complex

http://www.youtube.com/user/ManClubAustin#p/u/7/ZA8S2jFzFXs
http://www.youtube.com/user/ManClubAustin#p/u/10/Su_N99n6eRk

This guy makes everything seem so easy.
 


It really is, seems a little daunting the first time, but once you've done it, its a snap.

And there are a lot of great shade tree mechanics around here that will help you is you get stuck, just start a thread and post some pics of your situation and you'll get lots of help, some of it even usefull🙂
 
I do all my own maintenance and repairs but I don't fix flat tires, learn how to put on the spare (using tools that should be hidden somewhere in the trunk from the factory) and take the flat to a tire shop, they have massive power tools for ripping tires off rims. It's worth the $10 to have a shop do it since the right tools will cost thousands.

I don't rotate my tires, the fronts always wear faster, when the 2 front tires are worn I buy two new tires for the front, when the rears wear out I buy 2 new tires and have the tire shop rotate the fronts to the rear and install the new tires on the front. I prefer buying tires 2 at a time rather than 4 at a time. I suppose my situation might be different because every time I buy tires for my car I expect they will be the last tires I buy before the car is towed to a junk yard. I've bought 12 new tires now expecting each time that the tires would outlast the vehicle, it's worked out well so I keep my expectations the same.

A bottle jack might be a better investment than a floor jack, it'll be easier to use under the 4 runner at a fraction of the cost.

It sounds like you've got some pretty new cars that should still be under factory warranty for a while, I don't see any reason to dump a lot of money in tools because you won't see a return on the investment for quite a while. Get some ramps at wal-mart for $30 a wrench to fit your oil pan drain plug for a few dollars and an oil filter wrench for another few bucks and you'll be all set to do the majority of the work that you'd pay for over the next 100k miles.

I don't think I'd buy a filter from amazon, that's the kind of stuff I'd rather spend a few dollars (if any) for locally just to ensure I'll be able to buy it locally.
 
I guess if you buy everything at once and it's all shipped through Amazon, that will work. But if some of that stuff is not sold by Amazon, or you have a problem with any of it, you will have trouble with shipping costs and returns.

If you look around, most of that stuff will be priced the same as if you bought it locally.

I've never really had a need for wheel chocks. Since your Accord is FWD, if the tranny is in park the front wheels won't go anywhere and the parking brake keeps the rear wheels stopped. Not sure about your 4Runner, but would only be necessary if you jacked up the rear and the fronts were still on the ground. Still, if they're cheap, good thing to have just in case.

You have more jack options since neither of the cars are low. There was a thread on here recently about jack shopping. I ended on this one and have been using it for almost a year now: http://www.autobarn.net/2-ton-low-rider-floor-jack.html

DO NOT GET THE $20 ADV AUTO JACK. Good god man.

Go to Harbor Freight and pick up their set of taller, heavy duty jackstands. Cheap, plenty tall, and can handle large vehicles.

I would skip the lug nut wrench and just get a long 1/2" breaker bar.

The only time you will use a torque wrench 95% of the time will be on the lugnuts, FWIW. So I wouldn't spend big moolah on one. From what I've read, the Harbor freight ones seem to do just fine for that.

For the sockets & wrenches, I would pick a set that has a wide range of 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" sockets. I'd say for the 1/4", up to 12mm; 3/8" up to maybe 18mm; 1/2" from 16-25mm or so. You may not find a set with the right variety of sockets, so get the set that makes the most sense and then fill in the gaps.

A nice Craftsman tool set is a good place to start. You can get "cheap" Harbor Freight or Northern Tool sockets if you go for the impact ones. I have a set of ~17-24mm deep well impact sockets for various lugnut sizes and they work well for me.

A nice to have, but not requisite, bunch of tools are the GearWrenches. There are other brands, but basically it's a wrench with open end on one side and a closed end with a ratcheting gear mechanism on the other end. In circumstances where you can't fit a socket, these make life much easier than a regular wrench 🙂

This whole car thing seems to be an expensive hobby after looking at all these expenses...How do you guys do it?
Slowly. You buy the basics at first. Your list is rather extensive for a "beginner," but nothing wrong with that.

Over time, you pick up the odds & ends and major new tools as needed. I started with a $60 Craftsman jack & jack stand kit + basic 1/4" & 3/8" ratchet/socket set. I have a lot more now, although quite a bit less than others 🙂
 
If there's a Harbor Freight nearby, go there and buy an aluminum "racing jack". It will be much lighter than a steel one, and they're only about $80-100. Sometimes they're on sale for less.

As for the ramps, you don't want ramps that are too big and steep because you'll damage your car when you scrape.


Go to an auto parts or hardware store and try on their Mechanix gloves. Don't order them from Amazon. Also buy a box of nitrile gloves to protect your hands from chemicals. I like to wear them under my work gloves.


Sign up for an Accord or Honda forum and ASK before you do anything. And I mean anything.

For example, before you jack up the car, ask what to do, because you might ASSume you can jack from a certain point and end up damaging your chassis.
 
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Tools a guy should have:

Set of open/boxed end wrenches (like 10mm-19mm)....pliers are worthless for anything except rounding off bolt heads

Socket set, 3/8" drive.....again, size of sockets probably best like 6mm-16mm....a typical run of socket sizes in a decent set

Rubber mallet

Phillips and slot head screwdrivers

Then specific tools for the job you're doing.

No need to buy those 400+ piece tool sets with a hundred hex keys and bits/tools you'll never use.
 
I think you're going way overboard. You have a brand new car. Let the dealership change the oil. That's a loss leader for them and it's going to cost you about the same in parts for you to do it at home. I like to let the dealership do the oil changes and tire rotations until the warranty period expires. After the warranty expires is when I stop going to dealership for service and start doing my own maintenance or using third party shops.

You just need basic socket set for routine maintenance. Oil filter wrench and funnel for oil changes. You can change oil on high clearance vehicle like the 4runner without a ramp or jack. You'll fit easily under the car. I don't rotate my tires. I usually buy my tires from Costco and they do free rotation.
 
I have a 2009 EX-L I4 Accord sedan.

$24 for 5 qt. Mobil 1 5W-20 synthetic motor oil @ Walmart
$5 for Purolator PureOne oil filter
$15 for dealer service-only oil change

Plus the dealer checks other stuff while I'm there, like tire pressure, tread depth, tire rotation, brake pad wear, fluid levels, etc.
 
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as far as the toolkit, the 204pc comes with more sockets/wrenches/hex keys, etc. since you have a japanese car, i would hope/expect that everything you need will be metric.

That 204peice kit is not worth the money. Its full of a bunch of crap 12point sock filler. I have that 154 peice set and love it. Pretty much all the sockets are six point and very little repeat 12point BS. The case is very nice and if you need to buy anything bigger, buy it individually. The case has some nice inside areas for "extra" items.

Tools a guy should have:

Set of open/boxed end wrenches (like 10mm-19mm)....pliers are worthless for anything except rounding off bolt heads

Socket set, 3/8" drive.....again, size of sockets probably best like 6mm-16mm....a typical run of socket sizes in a decent set

Rubber mallet

Phillips and slot head screwdrivers

Then specific tools for the job you're doing.

No need to buy those 400+ piece tool sets with a hundred hex keys and bits/tools you'll never use.

100% agree on the box end wrenches. Love them.

I partially disagree on your tool set comment. Chances are, you'll need random imperial stuff, even if its just around the house. That $100 set has both metric and imperial with few 12pnt repeats and has a great size range. deep sockets come in very handy for bolts or studs with long ends. I just wish the wrenches went a little bigger...
 
I'll be changing the oil in the next week or so for the first time...I've bled my clutch though (and replaced the slave cylinder), so I can't imagine it'd be too much harder than that.
 
That 204peice kit is not worth the money. Its full of a bunch of crap 12point sock filler. I have that 154 peice set and love it. Pretty much all the sockets are six point and very little repeat 12point BS. The case is very nice and if you need to buy anything bigger, buy it individually. The case has some nice inside areas for "extra" items.



100% agree on the box end wrenches. Love them.

I partially disagree on your tool set comment. Chances are, you'll need random imperial stuff, even if its just around the house. That $100 set has both metric and imperial with few 12pnt repeats and has a great size range. deep sockets come in very handy for bolts or studs with long ends. I just wish the wrenches went a little bigger...
Would you buy the Craftsman 204 piece set if you could get it brand new for $92 after tax? 😛
 
Ramps are especially convenient for oil changes, but what else are they good for? I don't see them being a better buy than a floor jack and jack stands (as long as your car allows you to stand it up in places besides the jack point).
 
I think you're going way overboard. You have a brand new car. Let the dealership change the oil. That's a loss leader for them and it's going to cost you about the same in parts for you to do it at home. I like to let the dealership do the oil changes and tire rotations until the warranty period expires. After the warranty expires is when I stop going to dealership for service and start doing my own maintenance or using third party shops.

You just need basic socket set for routine maintenance. Oil filter wrench and funnel for oil changes. You can change oil on high clearance vehicle like the 4runner without a ramp or jack. You'll fit easily under the car. I don't rotate my tires. I usually buy my tires from Costco and they do free rotation.

20sj2v5.png


$35 to change oil, $20 for tire rotation at the dealer...That is with coupon! D:
Quick lube places(Jiffy lube, Firestone, Midas, Meineke, Precision Auto, Goodyear, etc...) are charging $20-25 to do BOTH!!! 😱
I tried calling those "quick lube" places and asked what if I bring my parts(Mobil 1 synthetic and Purelator oil filter) and you change oil/rotate tires, they said $20.

Doesn't seem like a loss leader to me at the dealer.
If you were one of those intelligent people(I was adviced to do so and I did) who ignored their 2/3/4/5 year $299/399/499/599 maintenance service plan, then sure it's an opportunity loss leader for them vs. someone who could have paid $199 for a 1 year maintenance plan when all they'll need is a $30 oil change/tire rotation I suppose.

That said, I've also been advised to avoid "quick lube" places like the plague. I hear they break stuff more than they fix them.
I wanted to go here since it's 25 mins away, but I'm concerned about paying only $1.95 for an oil change.
http://slickdeals.net/forums/showthread.php?sduid=0&t=2036212
 
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I have a 2009 EX-L I4 Accord sedan.

$24 for 5 qt. Mobil 1 5W-30 synthetic motor oil @ Walmart
$5 for Purolator PureOne oil filter
$15 for dealer service-only oil change

Plus the dealer checks other stuff while I'm there, like tire pressure, tread depth, tire rotation, brake pad wear, fluid levels, etc.

Not sure I understand what you're trying to saying here...
You buy the parts and take it for them to do for you?
So all in all, $45 to do that?

Break pad wear and fluid levels won't have worn out in a year. I know how to check fluids.
Tire pressure can easily be checked.

BTW, I already bought the Mobil 1 5W-20 synthetic at Walmart for $22 last week, and 2 pack Purolator PureOne filter on Amazon for $11 was delivered today.

Why are you going against the manufacturer recommendation of using 5W-20? You know something they don't? or was that a keystroke error?
 
Would you buy the Craftsman 204 piece set if you could get it brand new for $92 after tax? 😛

It seems that 204 piece set goes on sale for $99 about 50% of the year. I just happen to have bad luck.
http://slickdeals.net/sdsearch.php?...set&mode=forum&showposts=0&sdsearch_archive=0
Keyword searched on Slickdeals: "craftsman mechanics tool set"

That said if I'm buying a tool set, I'm not paying more than $99 for it. I don't care really if it's 154 or 204 piece.
I hear the box on the 154 piece is better designed anyway.
 
5W-20 vs 5W-30 won't matter. The Accord probly uses it for fuel economy.

If it doesn't matter, what's his reason for using it? I still want to know.

He couldn't find 5W-20 on the shelf? His hand grabbed 5W-30 first on the shelf? He recieved 5W-30 as a gift and had to use it or he had some stock 5W-30 left over in his garage? etc...
 
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