Time to start learning how to do some maintenance work

[jlee]

When you have the shitty Craftsman and Harbor Freight jacks crap out on you in <1 year, especially in the middle of a project, you won't think $230 is crazy. That jack has a low saddle height to get under (some) lowered cars and a high jacking range to allow enough height so you can actually work under the car. It also should be rebuildable when the time comes; good luck finding parts on the rest of those Chinese POS.

I've used my Craftsman 3 ton jack for probably seven years now...

A nice to have, but not requisite, bunch of tools are the GearWrenches. There are other brands, but basically it's a wrench with open end on one side and a closed end with a ratcheting gear mechanism on the other end. In circumstances where you can't fit a socket, these make life much easier than a regular wrench

GearWrenches are awesome- they go on sale at Sears for 50&#37; off every now and again, too.

My opinion. Unless you enjoy working on cars, it isn't worth your time and money to do it yourself. Unless you make less than $10 an hour. Then do whatever you can to pinch pennies.

It also depends on the car. I've had a mechanic stick his head down by my passenger door to look at the exhaust in my MR2.

....there's no engine up there. Am I really going to take it to a shop unless I absolutely have to? Nope. 😛

heh i don't know anyone that does differently. it may be a couple 2 liter coke bottles, a milk jug, or the 5(?) liter bottle the new oil came in.

Once you've changed oil a few times, you'll have an abundance of empty 5 quart jugs and that problem goes away. 😛

 

[mizzou]

get a crowbar, it comes in handy

 

[alkemyst]

7. Compress piston in caliper with a C clamp

or turn depending on style. Many calipers have been ruined thinking a c-clamp is always the answer.

 

[lothar]

I never could get used to wearing gloves.
If you are in the Sacramento CA area, I'll give you my ramps. I haven't used them in years.

Owings Mills, MD 🙁

 

[RockinZ28]

Initially yes the tools are expensive, but once you have them they pay for themselves quickly. And once you figure out how to do something, the next time you'll be able to do it faster and save time rather than waiting at a shop and paying out the ass.

Today I did the first somewhat complicated maintenance, for a novice, on my car. Borrowed my friends jack and stands and used the tools in my company truck.

Spent $70 on the parts I needed. Took about 3 hours to change my tranny fluid, swap out the broken stock tranny mount and replace it with a stronger aftermarket one, and change the fuel filter.

A local mechanic quoted me on that work at $650. So I just saved $580 and enjoyed the satisfaction of learning and working on my own car.

Next week will be the differential fluid and clutch fluid, which will save another $175 or so.

 

[jpeyton]

Not sure I understand what you're trying to saying here...
You buy the parts and take it for them to do for you?
So all in all, $45 to do that?

A little less, $43-ish. I rounded up.

Break pad wear and fluid levels won't have worn out in a year. I know how to check fluids.
Tire pressure can easily be checked.

Actually premature brake pad wear is a known issue on 8th-gen Accords. I just got a mailer from Honda on how to get reimbursed for replacing the brake pads if I have to replace them before the 3-year mark. Although the issue doesn't affect all 8th-gen Accords, some people on Accord forums have reported their pads wearing down after 12k miles. My dealer, being aware of this issue, checks every time I bring it in.

BTW, I already bought the Mobil 1 5W-20 synthetic at Walmart for $22 last week, and 2 pack Purolator PureOne filter on Amazon for $11 was delivered today.

Why are you going against the manufacturer recommendation of using 5W-20? You know something they don't? or was that a keystroke error?

Sorry, that was a typo; I use 5W-20. We pay the same price for oil and filters, since I also purchase my oil from Walmart and my filters from Amazon.

 

[CraigRT]

I am shocked someone said to bleed the brakes for a brake pad change.

Completely unnecessary waste of time.

 

[lothar]

Actually premature brake pad wear is a known issue on 8th-gen Accords. I just got a mailer from Honda on how to get reimbursed for replacing the brake pads if I have to replace them before the 3-year mark. Although the issue doesn't affect all 8th-gen Accords, some people on Accord forums have reported their pads wearing down after 12k miles. My dealer, being aware of this issue, checks every time I bring it in.

I know about the premature brake pad wear issue...Also received that mailing last week. It affects all 2008, 2009, and some 2010 Accords.

Should add that I was speaking from my point of view.
I've only driven ~7.5k miles in a year, that's why I said they won't have worn out in a year. I'm not one of those people that drives 15-30k miles a year. There's some dude on Driveaccord.net that already has 80-90k mileage on his 8th gen Accord...Crazy.

I intend to do all tire rotations at the Honda dealership and have them check my brakes anytime they do the tires. I haven't noticed the things people were experiencing yet, but maybe it's because my mileage is still low.

 

[fbrdphreak]

I am shocked someone said to bleed the brakes for a brake pad change.

Completely unnecessary waste of time.

Not if it's been a while since they were flushed. You can go by the manual, or roughly 2 years under normal driving, every year for spirited driving, even more often if you track the car.

I expect a lot out of my vehicle and considering the brakes are rather crucial, I don't mind spending 30-45 minutes to flush the fluid every year.

 

[CraigRT]

Not if it's been a while since they were flushed. You can go by the manual, or roughly 2 years under normal driving, every year for spirited driving, even more often if you track the car.

I expect a lot out of my vehicle and considering the brakes are rather crucial, I don't mind spending 30-45 minutes to flush the fluid every year.

I know what you're saying, but it wasn't really stated as an item to only do once every couple years or something. If my brake fluid had never been changed in the 8 years my car had been on the road, I'd change it, but I wouldnt bother even every 2 unless there were problems. I did it in my Nissan this spring, but that was only because it needed 2 new rear calipers.

 

[alkemyst]

I know what you're saying, but it wasn't really stated as an item to only do once every couple years or something. If my brake fluid had never been changed in the 8 years my car had been on the road, I'd change it, but I wouldnt bother even every 2 unless there were problems. I did it in my Nissan this spring, but that was only because it needed 2 new rear calipers.

It's simple insurance and good for the car. It shouldn't take that long to bleed some new fluid through. If you are burning through pads every year or two then a bleed could be skipped...most are running years until they have scored the rotors.

 

[fbrdphreak]

I know what you're saying, but it wasn't really stated as an item to only do once every couple years or something. If my brake fluid had never been changed in the 8 years my car had been on the road, I'd change it, but I wouldnt bother even every 2 unless there were problems. I did it in my Nissan this spring, but that was only because it needed 2 new rear calipers.

Indeed. Regular fluid changes also help keep the caliper & master cylinder seals fresh. It's cheap and relatively easy, so why not do it per the manual? They don't put that shit in there just for giggles.

Following common sense & manufacturer recommendations for maintenance are what keeps cars running in good condition for a long time, rather than having premature failures or just nickel & diming you as they age. My 97 Subaru wagon is doing well at 236K miles, because the original owner had all the service done at the dealership per mfr guidelines and I maintained it similarly once I got it.