The Unofficial ASUS P5N-E SLI 650i Board Thread

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Core2

Senior member
Dec 28, 2006
991
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I ground my self (anti-static wrist strap) use a rubber foam mat lay the board down on it and install everything but the video card. Grab the HSF and board and place it in your case (which should already have the HD DVD already installed) install the video card plug in all your wires and your good to go

EDIT: Don't forget to screw down the board to the case
 
Jan 13, 2007
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Originally posted by: idiotekniQues
the reason some of us use the hr-05 is because we dont want to add a fan due to noise issues and we are doing more than tiny oc's. its just personal preference. adding a fan is just fine.

changing the nb heatsink is a bit nerve-wracking the first time you do it but its not so bad if you are careful. but throw a fan on and you are ok.

you can flash the bios in windows but there are plenty of stories online about people getting bsod's during the bios update and if that happens you are toast. do it when you boot up and you are much safer, using a disk. in the bios is an e-z flash option. but dont use this new beta bios, it kills boards like core2 said.

If you have a large heatsink for the CPU like I do, the fins of the CPU cooler will contact the fins of the NB cooler. Through the process of thermal transfer, the less cold will flow to the colder. So if you NB temp is > than you CPU temp then the heat will flow to the CPU cooler. If the CPU cooler temp is > than the NB temp, excess heat will flow to the NB cooler. Also, having one fan in such close proximity to another fan disrupts the air flow. The same can be said about having a heat sink closer to the CPU than it needs to be.

Changing it out is easy. Chances are that you probably will or have knocked it free when you have installed the CPU cooler. You will notice immediately that the fit of the cooler on the NB is quite flimsey to say the least. The push pins are easy to remove if the MOBO is out of the case. On the soldered side of the board where the pins protrude through the board, using a pair of tweezers of a very small pair of needlw noze pliers, squeeze about half way up on the pin tip and push slightly toward the heatsink. As soon as the pin shoulder enters the motherboard hole, the pin will slide right out.

Do this to the other pin and then follow the directions on how to install the new cooler.
 

hugekebab

Member
Jan 26, 2005
161
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0
E6600

if i want it set 1:1 whats the actual setting for that called in the bios. im not even thinking of overclocking yet just want it up and running stable.
 

Core2

Senior member
Dec 28, 2006
991
0
0
Originally posted by: hugekebab
E6600

if i want it set 1:1 whats the actual setting for that called in the bios. im not even thinking of overclocking yet just want it up and running stable.

are you finish putting it together
 

idiotekniQues

Platinum Member
Jan 4, 2007
2,572
0
76
if you arent overclocking you dont have to mess with settings in the bios in regards to memory timings/fsb etc... dont worry about it.

 

JonDoms

Junior Member
Sep 9, 2006
16
0
0
I have been using this board for how long now Core2?
I have ZERO issues once I figured out what I needed to get my system stable @3.6.
1st I don't run @ 3.6 all the time. Only when I want to run benchies and what not.
I have gamed on it and watched live HDTV on it for hours on end at 3.6 and had ZERO problems.
I also did LARGE file transfers from my 500GB to my (2) 250GB drives all SATA and no problems.

If you are OverClocking, 1st list your case. If you have a case that does not provide good airflow then that's your limiting factor already.
The only complaint I have is the NB gets soo damn hot and it's the limiting factor in my OC attempts.
I have a SilverStone TJ07 with a front intake fan and my temps stay plenty cool enough for me to game.
If you have say a P180B I would look into running with the side door off. Otherwise it's not gonna OC so well.
I'm not gonna deny there are gonna be defective boards but for the most part they are the best value for Overclocking.
 

adder1971

Senior member
Jan 8, 2007
348
0
0
Originally posted by: Nevets Drassel
Originally posted by: idiotekniQues
the reason some of us use the hr-05 is because we dont want to add a fan due to noise issues and we are doing more than tiny oc's. its just personal preference. adding a fan is just fine.

changing the nb heatsink is a bit nerve-wracking the first time you do it but its not so bad if you are careful. but throw a fan on and you are ok.

you can flash the bios in windows but there are plenty of stories online about people getting bsod's during the bios update and if that happens you are toast. do it when you boot up and you are much safer, using a disk. in the bios is an e-z flash option. but dont use this new beta bios, it kills boards like core2 said.

If you have a large heatsink for the CPU like I do, the fins of the CPU cooler will contact the fins of the NB cooler. Through the process of thermal transfer, the less cold will flow to the colder. So if you NB temp is > than you CPU temp then the heat will flow to the CPU cooler. If the CPU cooler temp is > than the NB temp, excess heat will flow to the NB cooler. Also, having one fan in such close proximity to another fan disrupts the air flow. The same can be said about having a heat sink closer to the CPU than it needs to be.

Changing it out is easy. Chances are that you probably will or have knocked it free when you have installed the CPU cooler. You will notice immediately that the fit of the cooler on the NB is quite flimsey to say the least. The push pins are easy to remove if the MOBO is out of the case. On the soldered side of the board where the pins protrude through the board, using a pair of tweezers of a very small pair of needlw noze pliers, squeeze about half way up on the pin tip and push slightly toward the heatsink. As soon as the pin shoulder enters the motherboard hole, the pin will slide right out.

Do this to the other pin and then follow the directions on how to install the new cooler.

yep, very flimsy.
 

adder1971

Senior member
Jan 8, 2007
348
0
0
Originally posted by: hugekebab
E6600

if i want it set 1:1 whats the actual setting for that called in the bios. im not even thinking of overclocking yet just want it up and running stable.

i wouldn't even bother going synched 1:1 if you weren't planning to initially OC. stick in the components and turn it on. mem should automatically come up at 800mhz, fsb1066. may want to go in later and manually set voltage and timings but I'm not by mine to give you actually bios screenies.
 

idiotekniQues

Platinum Member
Jan 4, 2007
2,572
0
76
Originally posted by: JonDoms
I have been using this board for how long now Core2?
I have ZERO issues once I figured out what I needed to get my system stable @3.6.
1st I don't run @ 3.6 all the time. Only when I want to run benchies and what not.
I have gamed on it and watched live HDTV on it for hours on end at 3.6 and had ZERO problems.
I also did LARGE file transfers from my 500GB to my (2) 250GB drives all SATA and no problems.

If you are OverClocking, 1st list your case. If you have a case that does not provide good airflow then that's your limiting factor already.
The only complaint I have is the NB gets soo damn hot and it's the limiting factor in my OC attempts.
I have a SilverStone TJ07 with a front intake fan and my temps stay plenty cool enough for me to game.
If you have say a P180B I would look into running with the side door off. Otherwise it's not gonna OC so well.
I'm not gonna deny there are gonna be defective boards but for the most part they are the best value for Overclocking.


what brand are your hard drive?
 

Core2

Senior member
Dec 28, 2006
991
0
0
Guys,
an easy way to get the push pins out is with a Bic pen. Take the ink cartridge out and push on the pin with small hole end of plastic pen casing and it compresses the barbed end of the pin and pops it right out
 

Core2

Senior member
Dec 28, 2006
991
0
0
The Corsair C4's have been giving a few people trouble on the initial boot. I think JonDom was using them and he had problems(chime in if you can). So I would recommend setting them manually first before you install windows

EDIT: scratch that till JonDom comments on it try auto

I have both C4"s and C5"s and I can set either ones to 4-4-4-12 2T @ 1.92 at default FSB and run fine
 

JonDoms

Junior Member
Sep 9, 2006
16
0
0
Originally posted by: idiotekniQues
what brand are your hard drive?

Ahh forgot to add that. WD 500KS and 250KS.

I also have a 750GB Seagate but it's in another rig.

Airflow is key.

 
Jan 13, 2007
124
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0
I have heard (read) that there may be a way to unlock the E6000 series multipliers. Did anyone else hear or see any other information on theis subject?

 

Core2

Senior member
Dec 28, 2006
991
0
0
Originally posted by: Nevets Drassel
I have heard (read) that there may be a way to unlock the E6000 series multipliers. Did anyone else hear or see any other information on theis subject?

Downward yes 9,8,7,6 Upward not that I know of and you mean the E6600 right?
 

JonDoms

Junior Member
Sep 9, 2006
16
0
0
Originally posted by: Core2
The Corsair C4's have been giving a few people trouble on the initial boot. I think JonDom was using them and he had problems(chime in if you can). So I would recommend setting them manually first before you install windows

EDIT: scratch that till JonDom comments on it try auto

Yea I would definitley check what CPU-Z says it's running and then compare it to what CPU-Z says the SPD timings are.

Then go back and manually configure them to run at 4-4-4-12-1T or 2T @ 2.1v.
These suckers need a lot of power to run at 800mhz manually.
I didn't run them on Auto.

 

skippymchaggis

Junior Member
Jan 16, 2007
4
0
0
Originally posted by: Nevets Drassel
Originally posted by: Core2
Originally posted by: skippymchaggis
.....

and i am having some graphics glitches, but i think it's related to the game code getting sloppy on the last patch. i've put speedfan and cpu-z on both machines. everything seems to be running in what you guys have posted as normal temps and speeds, although i'm not sure where to plug in some of the fans to get readings from the other slots on speedfan, right now they're chained off the psu running at constant speed and not being controlled by the board, or psu.

......

anyone have any thoughts?

thanks in advance,
skip

Skip
I would check all the hardware connection and plugs making sure they are securely connected and that you have put all the right wires that connect to the headers in there proper location. Next check your ram and video card make sure they are seated all the way in especially the ram make sure the side clips are locked in place. If that doesn't work try putting your ram in the black slots only. Do this to both machines and compare for any difference in the way they were put together.

What do you mean by "right now they're chained off the psu running at constant speed and not being controlled by the board, or psu
"?

There are three fan headers on the motherboard. 1 is for the CPU Fan and has 4 pins. It is right next to the CPU mounting bracket. There are two other headers both are three pin. One is just to the back of the NB for a chpiset fan. The other is by the CMOS Reset jumper and is for a case fan (as it is read in BIOS). You can use either of the two latter headers to plug anything into, just make sure that the board can handle it, and use the information in BIOS and hence in ASUS ProbeII to track your fan speeds.

I understand you saying that you have all your fans "chained" to the PSU as meaning that all of your fans are powered directly by the PSU and not the fan headers on the motherboard. Does this mean that your CPU fan is also "chained" to the PSU and not the motherboard?

right now the cpu cooler is into the cpu fan jack. the case fans are running off the "fan only" power cable running off the psu. i have the three variable speed fans set to run on high, always.

two pages of thread to catch up on now...
 
Jan 13, 2007
124
0
0
Originally posted by: Core2
Originally posted by: Nevets Drassel
I have heard (read) that there may be a way to unlock the E6000 series multipliers. Did anyone else hear or see any other information on theis subject?

Downward yes 9,8,7,6 Upward not that I know of and you mean the E6600 right?


I was actually refering to the E6000 Series of processors. Well, I was half right and half wrong. Its the E6800 that is unlocked and not the rest of the series.
 

Core2

Senior member
Dec 28, 2006
991
0
0
and thats X6800 right???? all can clock downward X6800 both ways or like you said unlocked thats why they get the big bucks for that thing
 
Jan 13, 2007
124
0
0
Originally posted by: skippymchaggis
Originally posted by: Nevets Drassel
Originally posted by: Core2
Originally posted by: skippymchaggis
.....

and i am having some graphics glitches, but i think it's related to the game code getting sloppy on the last patch. i've put speedfan and cpu-z on both machines. everything seems to be running in what you guys have posted as normal temps and speeds, although i'm not sure where to plug in some of the fans to get readings from the other slots on speedfan, right now they're chained off the psu running at constant speed and not being controlled by the board, or psu.

......

anyone have any thoughts?

thanks in advance,
skip

Skip
I would check all the hardware connection and plugs making sure they are securely connected and that you have put all the right wires that connect to the headers in there proper location. Next check your ram and video card make sure they are seated all the way in especially the ram make sure the side clips are locked in place. If that doesn't work try putting your ram in the black slots only. Do this to both machines and compare for any difference in the way they were put together.

What do you mean by "right now they're chained off the psu running at constant speed and not being controlled by the board, or psu
"?

There are three fan headers on the motherboard. 1 is for the CPU Fan and has 4 pins. It is right next to the CPU mounting bracket. There are two other headers both are three pin. One is just to the back of the NB for a chpiset fan. The other is by the CMOS Reset jumper and is for a case fan (as it is read in BIOS). You can use either of the two latter headers to plug anything into, just make sure that the board can handle it, and use the information in BIOS and hence in ASUS ProbeII to track your fan speeds.

I understand you saying that you have all your fans "chained" to the PSU as meaning that all of your fans are powered directly by the PSU and not the fan headers on the motherboard. Does this mean that your CPU fan is also "chained" to the PSU and not the motherboard?

right now the cpu cooler is into the cpu fan jack. the case fans are running off the "fan only" power cable running off the psu. i have the three variable speed fans set to run on high, always.

two pages of thread to catch up on now...


I would then look at the PSU's. You need to test all the rails with the system on and they way to do it is with a MM or DMM. Check ouy this thread:

http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showthread.php?t=137886

I know that you said that you had two identical PSU for these systems. If they were bought at the same time and made the same day, there could be issued with them and that would be causeing you the problems that you have.

Test you PSU rails and let us know.


 
Jan 2, 2007
44
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0
Originally posted by: adder1971
be back in a bit John, off to do my multi boot with vista.

Nice. I've been running an XP and Vista dual boot for a few weeks now. I really like Vista and have had no compatibility issues.
 

Core2

Senior member
Dec 28, 2006
991
0
0
Originally posted by: aintitthelife98
Originally posted by: adder1971
be back in a bit John, off to do my multi boot with vista.

Nice. I've been running an XP and Vista dual boot for a few weeks now. I really like Vista and have had no compatibility issues.

How's the speed compared to xp and bench marks