I havent been able to get mine to run at 1t either. sounds like they are working on a bios to improve support for low latency memory.
I havent been able to get mine to run at 1t either. sounds like they are working on a bios to improve support for low latency memory.
Hi everyone, I'm new around here. I'm doing a new build with this board. My parts are on the Fedex truck as I type this. I have a off topic question. Are most of you guys doing a fresh install of your OS. A friend of mine installed my XP on his computer with out my permission. He went as far as to get a new CD key code from MS. So I now possibly own a invalid XP key code. I'm hoping to be able to just swap my HD into the new rig until I have to buy a Vista upgrade. Also has anyone water cooled this board yet?
Ya thats what I figured as well but when I tried to run in just the black slots stability went out the window. I couldn't get anything to work well.
Did you look at these. Chipset fans
I'm not saying there's anythings wrong with the one you have posted. It's that you could buy five of these for the price of one of those.
Put your system setup with your settings in your sig like we have. We can help you better if we know what your running and what settings you have in the bios
The way you have your ram is in single channel mode you need to be in either Yellow banks or Black banks for duel channel. The problems your were having before are most likely just voltage or timing adjustments.
when changing out that many components i always recommend a re-install. xp is defintiely better at handling changes of hardware than the other OS's and I have been able to install a new mobo without it completely breaking. of course then you have the activation issue to deal with. usually a call to MS support will resolve that. i havent done any watercooling myself.
initially i would just set all mem settings, timings, voltage etc to auto and see how that goes.
it's easiest to find the cause of instability when you just change one component setting at a time.
hmm with the current setup in my sig, i can run 3dmark06 test fine. but when i play WoW it could frequently crash the app with some memory errors. now is the problem caused by memory instability at 50mhz overclock or is something overheating. the system itself doesnt crash, only the app.
i'm gonna read some reviews on that antec spotcool and also try out some 40mm fans.
i'm gonna read some reviews on that antec spotcool and also try out some 40mm fans.
I was able to get to 500mhz synch mode with all setting set to auto for mem. then went in and saw what it had set the timings to in bios and started lowering from there until it became unstable. give that a shot and let me know how it works out.
Ryan
That's what I figured. Hopefully MS won't tell me to go pound sand if I need a new CD key. I'll probably try to see if it will boot with HD swap. I'll let you guys know what happens. I should have all the parts by next Thursday. Thanx...........
Speedfan reports more accurate core and CPU temps then does coretemp. ProbeII will report the CPU temp that speedfan uses (accesses the same sensor). Coretemp is new and getting better with there latest Beta it is right on with speedfan. Before that it was all over the place.
Core temps
This accuracy problem is caused by the way manufacturers implement their temperature monitoring system. Some motherboards use an external thermal diode, which is placed in the inner part of the CPU socket under the CPU itself. This diode is supposed to touch the bottom of the chip, thus measuring CPU temperature - this is probably the most inaccurate way to do this.
Fortunately for us this method is not being used much, if at all, anymore. This is because most if not all recent P4/Athlon64 motherboards began using the internal thermal diode found in any modern CPU, and these are actually more accurate, but still there's something that interferes with accurate readings:
That something is all the circuitry and the electric paths that the signal has to travel through until it gets to the Super I/O chip to be sampled - another thing would be the placement of this sensor. In a CPU core there are several parts that produce heat, with some producing more heat than others. If I take a sensor and put it in a spot in the core that does not produce much heat at all, I would get a completely different reading than if I were to place the same sensor in the hottest part of the same chip.
The Innovation
Both Intel and AMD, realizing that the way things were done until now was probably not the best, made up a new way to monitor CPU temperature. This way includes a thermal diode; however, a thermal diode is an analog device and the readings have to be converted to digital data. This is done by an ADC (Analog to Digital Converter).
A thermal diode that is connected to the ADC creates something called DTS (Digital Thermal Sensor). Basically the way it works is very simple - in theory. A circuit in the CPU core samples a reading from the thermal diode and writes the digital value to a specialized register in the CPU, which allows any software to read this value at will. The benefit of this way of measuring temperature is that all this is done internally in the core and converted into digital data instantly - digital data does not lose accuracy when it's passed from place to place, unlike an analog signal that is prone to interference and attenuation.
Here is the link to the full article
Core Temps
Core temps
This accuracy problem is caused by the way manufacturers implement their temperature monitoring system. Some motherboards use an external thermal diode, which is placed in the inner part of the CPU socket under the CPU itself. This diode is supposed to touch the bottom of the chip, thus measuring CPU temperature - this is probably the most inaccurate way to do this.
Fortunately for us this method is not being used much, if at all, anymore. This is because most if not all recent P4/Athlon64 motherboards began using the internal thermal diode found in any modern CPU, and these are actually more accurate, but still there's something that interferes with accurate readings:
That something is all the circuitry and the electric paths that the signal has to travel through until it gets to the Super I/O chip to be sampled - another thing would be the placement of this sensor. In a CPU core there are several parts that produce heat, with some producing more heat than others. If I take a sensor and put it in a spot in the core that does not produce much heat at all, I would get a completely different reading than if I were to place the same sensor in the hottest part of the same chip.
The Innovation
Both Intel and AMD, realizing that the way things were done until now was probably not the best, made up a new way to monitor CPU temperature. This way includes a thermal diode; however, a thermal diode is an analog device and the readings have to be converted to digital data. This is done by an ADC (Analog to Digital Converter).
A thermal diode that is connected to the ADC creates something called DTS (Digital Thermal Sensor). Basically the way it works is very simple - in theory. A circuit in the CPU core samples a reading from the thermal diode and writes the digital value to a specialized register in the CPU, which allows any software to read this value at will. The benefit of this way of measuring temperature is that all this is done internally in the core and converted into digital data instantly - digital data does not lose accuracy when it's passed from place to place, unlike an analog signal that is prone to interference and attenuation.
Here is the link to the full article
Core Temps
adder1971
Do you have your ram in the black slots
Just be careful with auto setting. I been reading (and I'll try to find the post) that there is a lot of voltage spiking on this board both vdimm and vcore who knows about NB and the SB. At least with manual setting you are in the general area of what you set.
Here's the Post 8th one down from the top
Do you have your ram in the black slots
Just be careful with auto setting. I been reading (and I'll try to find the post) that there is a lot of voltage spiking on this board both vdimm and vcore who knows about NB and the SB. At least with manual setting you are in the general area of what you set.
Here's the Post 8th one down from the top
See what the setting and MHz are in the JumperFree Configuration under FSB & Memory Config
and post what they are
Speedfan's voltage for the vdimm is not correct
I have them in the black slots now. I didn't see much of a difference between the two. Moved them to black since it seems to work better for other people there and because there weren't much room between the yellow slots and my scythe
Your board seems to have much less vdroop than mine.As long as he hasn't used your CD Key and you have a retail version (not OEM) You can install XP on any new computer providing that it is the ONLY computer running with that key That means the old one has to go. Just call Microsoft and explain what you are doing
Originally posted by: adder1971
I have them in the black slots now. I didn't see much of a difference between the two. Moved them to black since it seems to work better for other people there and because there weren't much room between the yellow slots and my scythe
See if can manually set the voltages (really strange that you can't) for your ram now and if your droop is better or anything different Can you run 1T now?
Originally posted by: Core2
Originally posted by: adder1971
I have them in the black slots now. I didn't see much of a difference between the two. Moved them to black since it seems to work better for other people there and because there weren't much room between the yellow slots and my scythe
See if can manually set the voltages (really strange that you can't) for your ram now and if your droop is better or anything different Can you run 1T now?
I can run 1t at my 4-4-3-8 timings but it is very unstable (regardless of which slots) my voltage may be changing but it is definitely very unstable at above the 2.259 setting. very possible it's just my ram though. just wish i could check it without the old voltmeter. vdroop for my cpu is horrible. .10 volts from bios without a load. higher than that with both cores max load. crazy stuff.
[/quote]
John,
Do you know of any program that is correct? I haven't had any luck googling one.
Ryan[/quote]
I don't believe there is a sensor for it. The only way then would be to use a volt meter.
There is a post that shows where to get the reading if you want it I'll go find it
John,
Do you know of any program that is correct? I haven't had any luck googling one.
Ryan[/quote]
I don't believe there is a sensor for it. The only way then would be to use a volt meter.
There is a post that shows where to get the reading if you want it I'll go find it
Hello, I'm a new member that has been lurking on this thread for about a week or two while I built my new system on this Motherboard. I just want to say "thanks!" for the great advice.
Here is my best build so far (all air cooled):
MB: Asus P5N-E SLI
FBS 1550/4 = 387.5mhz
Memory = DDR2 800 @ 850 (825 mhz per channel)
HD = Maxtor SATA II 300GB
Video SLI config 2 x BFG 7800 GS OC (557Mhz GPU, 660Mhz Mem)
CPU = Intel E6400 2.13Ghz OC'd to 3.15Ghz with stock CPU Heatsink/fan (stuck with 8x multiplier as FSB could not handle 1750+ Mhz with much stability)
Added a 80MM fan to the northbridge (and still looking for a good way to mount it properly.)
Anyway, here are some of the lessons learned:
1. Can't repeat this enough: Cooling the Northbridge is a must
2. Don't use the Yellow slots for memory. I switched based on the recommendation from this forum and sure enough the system is running stable.
3. I used silver thermal compound on the CPU and Northbridge. I'm a bit worried about using a conduction, but I was super careful about applying it. I hope I don't live to regret that. So far the results are great.
And lastly, my Asus utility reports that my CPU in idle is about 40C, under stress it goes up to only about 45C. Is this good airflow design or a broken sensor? The CPU heatsink is not very hot to touch even after 3DMark testing. My case has two 120MM fans, one sucking in the front and the other (near the CPU) blowing out the back. The 500W PSU also has a 120MM fan build in.
3DMark05 = 15551 Gfx, 10360 CPU
3DMark06 = 7200 Gfx, 2740 CPU
Thanks all! When I get bored with 3.15Ghz I'm going for liquid cooling
Here is my best build so far (all air cooled):
MB: Asus P5N-E SLI
FBS 1550/4 = 387.5mhz
Memory = DDR2 800 @ 850 (825 mhz per channel)
HD = Maxtor SATA II 300GB
Video SLI config 2 x BFG 7800 GS OC (557Mhz GPU, 660Mhz Mem)
CPU = Intel E6400 2.13Ghz OC'd to 3.15Ghz with stock CPU Heatsink/fan (stuck with 8x multiplier as FSB could not handle 1750+ Mhz with much stability)
Added a 80MM fan to the northbridge (and still looking for a good way to mount it properly.)
Anyway, here are some of the lessons learned:
1. Can't repeat this enough: Cooling the Northbridge is a must
2. Don't use the Yellow slots for memory. I switched based on the recommendation from this forum and sure enough the system is running stable.
3. I used silver thermal compound on the CPU and Northbridge. I'm a bit worried about using a conduction, but I was super careful about applying it. I hope I don't live to regret that. So far the results are great.
And lastly, my Asus utility reports that my CPU in idle is about 40C, under stress it goes up to only about 45C. Is this good airflow design or a broken sensor? The CPU heatsink is not very hot to touch even after 3DMark testing. My case has two 120MM fans, one sucking in the front and the other (near the CPU) blowing out the back. The 500W PSU also has a 120MM fan build in.
3DMark05 = 15551 Gfx, 10360 CPU
3DMark06 = 7200 Gfx, 2740 CPU
Thanks all! When I get bored with 3.15Ghz I'm going for liquid cooling
idiotekniQues
Platinum Member
- Jan 4, 2007
- 2,572
- 0
- 76
stoopid noob question here. i cant change my multiplier. i mean i can in bios but when i get to windows and chck my clock speed with cpu-z it always is a multi of 8.
ive been runnin this stable at 3.2ghz ram at spec timings at 800mhz with my fsb unlinked at 1600. i have to keep my NB voltage at the 1.56 which i am not too happy about even though i have good airflow and an HR-05 on the NB. my cpu temps never go above 45-46 when running orthos for awhile, MB temps are 40-42 but my NB heatsink feels hot, but not untouchable hot. putting a fan on it would just be too loud. id rather change my multi and lower my fsb and NB voltage therefore. my scythe ninja never really even gets warm to the touch under load.
help for a noob?
ive been runnin this stable at 3.2ghz ram at spec timings at 800mhz with my fsb unlinked at 1600. i have to keep my NB voltage at the 1.56 which i am not too happy about even though i have good airflow and an HR-05 on the NB. my cpu temps never go above 45-46 when running orthos for awhile, MB temps are 40-42 but my NB heatsink feels hot, but not untouchable hot. putting a fan on it would just be too loud. id rather change my multi and lower my fsb and NB voltage therefore. my scythe ninja never really even gets warm to the touch under load.
help for a noob?
Originally posted by: Kand
Hello, I'm a new member that has been lurking on this thread for about a week or two while I built my new system on this Motherboard. I just want to say "thanks!" for the great advice.
Here is my best build so far (all air cooled):
MB: Asus P5N-E SLI
FBS 1550/4 = 387.5mhz
Memory = DDR2 800 @ 850 (825 mhz per channel)
HD = Maxtor SATA II 300GB
Video SLI config 2 x BFG 7800 GS OC (557Mhz GPU, 660Mhz Mem)
CPU = Intel E6400 2.13Ghz OC'd to 3.15Ghz with stock CPU Heatsink/fan (stuck with 8x multiplier as FSB could not handle 1750+ Mhz with much stability)
Added a 80MM fan to the northbridge (and still looking for a good way to mount it properly.)
Anyway, here are some of the lessons learned:
1. Can't repeat this enough: Cooling the Northbridge is a must
2. Don't use the Yellow slots for memory. I switched based on the recommendation from this forum and sure enough the system is running stable.
3. I used silver thermal compound on the CPU and Northbridge. I'm a bit worried about using a conduction, but I was super careful about applying it. I hope I don't live to regret that. So far the results are great.
And lastly, my Asus utility reports that my CPU in idle is about 40C, under stress it goes up to only about 45C. Is this good airflow design or a broken sensor? The CPU heatsink is not very hot to touch even after 3DMark testing. My case has two 120MM fans, one sucking in the front and the other (near the CPU) blowing out the back. The 500W PSU also has a 120MM fan build in.
3DMark05 = 15551 Gfx, 10360 CPU
3DMark06 = 7200 Gfx, 2740 CPU
Thanks all! When I get bored with 3.15Ghz I'm going for liquid cooling
Kand, Welcome Aboard.
Great job!
Thanks for contributing your findings
If you did a good job with you thermal paste (next time try MX-1) I'd say a 5 degree rise in load temp is normal.
Download speedfan and compare. All the details and instructions are in this thread
CPU core unlock has to be enabled in the bios for it to work. You can also use CPUID in windows to change it. look back through the post for a link or google it Try dropping your FSB down a little say 355x8 or 1420 FSB and lower your NB volts to 120 and work your way up with that voltage till you have to change it to 1.39 and that way you have a range with lower voltages.
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