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The *Official* Asus A7N8X (Deluxe) Thread
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"Did you lock the AGP to 66MHz? See pages 55 and 57 of the manual for that. You might also want to try more RAM voltage, maybe 2.7V or so, if you didn't try that yet."
Thanks, but yes I have it fixed to 66 mhz AGP and I've tried increasing AGP and RAM voltage all the way. It doesn't make a single mhz of difference, which again suggests to me the board itself is the limiting factor.
Thanks, but yes I have it fixed to 66 mhz AGP and I've tried increasing AGP and RAM voltage all the way. It doesn't make a single mhz of difference, which again suggests to me the board itself is the limiting factor.
Mem freq is set at SPD resulting in 200mhz. I tried the mem at 133mhz when I was running ver.1001G bios and it didn't help then. Maybe now it will. I realize that hot plugging ps2 keyboard is not a good idea..... however sometimes when the level of frustration reaches a certain point one does things they wouldn't do when thinking rationally. I'm not sure if the hard drive is set on master or single drive. It is the only HD. Then again, I'd have to shut it off to find out!!!
UPDATE
Set mem freq to auto resulting in 133mhz
checked the HD jumper, it was already set on "single drive or master/ no slave"
Flashed the bios to ver.1002.001
Shut down, restarted and " failed memory test" "no keyboard present"
Shut down for about 5min, while tearing out the rest of my hair, and started - No Problem 🙂
Hopefully, this will take care of my dilemma. Thanks for all the great suggestions.
I am happy to be a member of this forum and will continue to put my 2 cents in now and then.
UPDATE
Set mem freq to auto resulting in 133mhz
checked the HD jumper, it was already set on "single drive or master/ no slave"
Flashed the bios to ver.1002.001
Shut down, restarted and " failed memory test" "no keyboard present"
Shut down for about 5min, while tearing out the rest of my hair, and started - No Problem 🙂
Hopefully, this will take care of my dilemma. Thanks for all the great suggestions.
I am happy to be a member of this forum and will continue to put my 2 cents in now and then.
Yes, unfortunately its not controlled via BIOS though. There's a physical jumper that needs to be moved. Simple enough, its near the CMOS battery and the RAID controller chip on the mobo. Consult your manual for exact location and jumper settings though. (You should only have to move it from pin 1/2 to pin 2/3). Its a good idea to disable anything you're not using in your BIOS, as it frees up system resources, prevents potential hardware conflicts, and some mobos have boot issues when unused devices/options are enabled in the BIOS.
Chiz
djfriedhoff
Junior Member
I like the feature set of this board... Before I purchase, are there any other close competitors I should look at? I'm not overly concerned about price...
Will be moving entire system contents over (including 1.4Ghz TBird), except of course for my RAM - will probably go Crucial.
Thanks.
Will be moving entire system contents over (including 1.4Ghz TBird), except of course for my RAM - will probably go Crucial.
Thanks.
Well, the price is higher because of the all the extra goodies...but if you had to look at compeititors I'd say the 8rda+ and that Abit one seem to also be popular.
And yeah everything should move over...but it is in your best interest to reformat windows from the beginning because it is going to be quite a pain to isolate a problem.
Nforce2s will have issues because of other problems, but once it is stable...it is as hard as my....err 😉 Let us just leave it at that.
Btw, you may want to consider to pick up a 1700+ since it is 50ish dollars and then overclock it ( I have my t-bred A at 1750 right now..I could go up about 50 more Mhz but I choose not to since I have no need for it any higher)
And yeah everything should move over...but it is in your best interest to reformat windows from the beginning because it is going to be quite a pain to isolate a problem.
Nforce2s will have issues because of other problems, but once it is stable...it is as hard as my....err 😉 Let us just leave it at that.
Btw, you may want to consider to pick up a 1700+ since it is 50ish dollars and then overclock it ( I have my t-bred A at 1750 right now..I could go up about 50 more Mhz but I choose not to since I have no need for it any higher)
SKORPI0
Lifer
Yes, the Abit NF7-S rev 1.2 (make sure you get 1.2) is nearly feature-identical to the A7N8X-D. I believe the only differences are 1 less LAN and 2 fewer USB headers on the I/O plate, but don't quote that as fact. The Chaintech is also loaded, but I've heard mixed reviews of it.
Also, don't go with Crucial PC2700 512MB dimms. There's a few lengthy threads developing about issues with Crucial 512MB dimms and nForce2 boards. Samsung is a good choice for your brand-name standard DDR on par with Crucial in price and performance.
Chiz
djfriedhoff
Junior Member
I've started pricing the Corsair 1GB 3200 twin pack (two 512's) - any thoughts on those?
I'm using those very sticks. Love 'em 😀 Not having to worry about FSB overhead when tweaking is great. If you don't plan to Overclock or push your FSB to the max, they're not worth it. Otherwise, they're the only "safe bet" in the volatile and sometimes shady performance RAM market.
Chiz
CAn anyone help me out? I've been having a LOT of stupid cold boot issues. Today it took me 20 minutes to turn on the pc and I had to lower the multiplier and FSB to 6.5*100 to get the poc to post (though I didn't try anything inbetween....)
I'm running bios 1002.A and using 2x256 of crucial pc2700 and a Tbred A 1700+
What can i do to get of this cold boot out of my system...it is killing me :\
I'm running bios 1002.A and using 2x256 of crucial pc2700 and a Tbred A 1700+
What can i do to get of this cold boot out of my system...it is killing me :\
Its either your PSU or your RAM; I found high OC's of your RAM at timings that your RAM/CPU/mobo can't handle and underpowered PSUs to be the cause of my cold boots when I first upgraded to my last two mobos. 300W Enlight gave me problems on my 8KHA+ (KT266A) so I got an Antec 400W PP403X. Had similar issues with my A7N8XD with the 400W and picked up a 480W TrueBlue. Problem fixed both times. No cold boot, soft boot, reset, restart issues at all.
Chiz
djfriedhoff
Junior Member
I've currently got a SB Live! Platinum with Live!Drive... I LOVE the connectors on the front of the PC - especially for my headphones.
If I use the onboard 6 channel audio, are there any headers for front-accessible audio connections (even USB and 1394)? I'd rather not have to purchase another piece of hardware to accomplish this.
Thanks.
If I use the onboard 6 channel audio, are there any headers for front-accessible audio connections (even USB and 1394)? I'd rather not have to purchase another piece of hardware to accomplish this.
Thanks.
Even if you get a case with Mic in/out on the front of the case with USB or anything else it isn't the same as the live drive, You have to run cables from the front of the case to the back of the computer and then you can't use your speakers, You can ues a T but then everything sounds bad, I would stick with the SoundBlaster, If you want to upgrade the sound go with a Audigy or if you want the best Audigy2
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