Synthetic vs Regular oil - questions

[exdeath]

I use Royal Purple synthetic 5w20 in my Cobra and change every 3-5k. Actually I don't even change it based on mileage, I change it when the oil starts to lose it's gold clear color and begins to turn brown/black, which is about 3-5k. Keeps things nice and clean. Tight tolerances (.001 PTW with forged pistons ), in Arizona 100+ deg heat and dust, and I drive it hard and put it away wet and hit redline and max boost at *least* once every time I drive it.

From what I've seen from independent tests the Synertec additive they use works as advertised.

Good but cheap dino oil in the beater with 160k on it.

 

[CrimsonWolf]

Originally posted by: SniperWulf

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt

Originally posted by: SniperWulf

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt

Originally posted by: SniperWulf
You guys can say what you want, but I can/have been able to feel the difference between Dino and Synthetic oil in every car I own/have owned. Aside from the longer change intervals, the engine doesn't feel sluggish around 1/4 the way into a change interval like the Dino oil does

Thousands of people "feel the difference" when they use fuel line magnets and "Tornado" fuel savers too.

ZV

So what are you trying to say here? Are you calling me a lie?

I'm saying that, according to every piece of observable and repeatable scientifically-objective testing, the "difference" that you feel does not exist anywhere other than inside your head. You are not "lying" because you legitimately believe what you are saying even though what you are saying is demonstrably false in scientific testing. That makes you mistaken, but it does not make you a liar.

ZV

Sorry kid, thats where you are mistaken. The difference is repeatable. I've experienced it numerous times and so do many people I know. I've even had family (that had no idea that I switched her to synthetic) come back and ask what I did different to her car. So saying that it exists *only* in my head is no different than any "observable and repeatable scientifically-objective testing" that you can find.

To the OP: Bottom line, do it.

I've noticed a difference, too! And it even made my penis larger! What will they think of next?!

 

[Pacfanweb]

Originally posted by: CrimsonWolf


I've noticed a difference, too! And it even made my penis larger! What will they think of next?!

Me too! I once changed my Tahoe over to synthetic oil on a Friday evening, and it gave me skin-splitters the whole weekend. My wife loved it!

 

[LS8]

My car gets Royal Purple. I change the oil & filter every 60 days.

 

[Arkaign]

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt

Originally posted by: KIAman
The only advantage synthetic might have is extending the oil change interval due to better break down characteristics which could save money on labor costs of an oil change if not done by oneself.

$5/qt 15,000 mile oil synthetic

vs

$1/qt for 3,000 mile oil dino

avg 4 qt total cost for oil is $25 vs $9 (assuming $5 filter).

avg labor cost of oil change = $20

in 15,000 miles

dino costs $145 (5 changes including parts and labor)
synthetic costs $45 (1 change including parts and labor)

As to the differences in engine life, quality, function, endurance, etc, there is no difference as long as the OCI (oil change interval) is followed.

Most cars sold today recommend a 7,500 mile change interval even with regular oil. Also, I don't know where you're getting synthetic for $5/quart. It runs about $9/quart where I am (Seattle area).

So, re-calculating with the accurate numbers:

Materials cost per 4qt change: $9 for conventional, $41 for synthetic.

Total cost over 15,000 miles: $58 for conventional, $61 for synthetic, + $22.50 for the oil analysis that should be performed at 7,500 miles to verify that the extended drain interval is OK.

ZV

Wow ZV! That's pretty high!

Here in Texas we have synthetic oils from Wal Mart, Napa, and others, that are $5/qt or less. Napa sells a Napa-brand (made by Valvoline) full syn for like $4.69 or so. I think Wal-Mart also has similar pricing for their generic Supertech, which has variably been sourced from WPP and SOPUS, with overall very good reviews.

 

[EightySix Four]

Originally posted by: exdeath
I use Royal Purple synthetic 5w20 in my Cobra and change every 3-5k. Actually I don't even change it based on mileage, I change it when the oil starts to lose it's gold clear color and begins to turn brown/black, which is about 3-5k. Keeps things nice and clean. Tight tolerances (.001 PTW with forged pistons ), in Arizona 100+ deg heat and dust, and I drive it hard and put it away wet and hit redline and max boost at *least* once every time I drive it.

From what I've seen from independent tests the Synertec additive they use works as advertised.

Good but cheap dino oil in the beater with 160k on it.

I do exactly the same thing you do. I'm in the boost at full bore at least once everytime I drive. Royal Purple and change it when changes colors.

 

[Pacfanweb]

Originally posted by: Arkaign

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt

Originally posted by: KIAman
The only advantage synthetic might have is extending the oil change interval due to better break down characteristics which could save money on labor costs of an oil change if not done by oneself.

$5/qt 15,000 mile oil synthetic

vs

$1/qt for 3,000 mile oil dino

avg 4 qt total cost for oil is $25 vs $9 (assuming $5 filter).

avg labor cost of oil change = $20

in 15,000 miles

dino costs $145 (5 changes including parts and labor)
synthetic costs $45 (1 change including parts and labor)

As to the differences in engine life, quality, function, endurance, etc, there is no difference as long as the OCI (oil change interval) is followed.

Most cars sold today recommend a 7,500 mile change interval even with regular oil. Also, I don't know where you're getting synthetic for $5/quart. It runs about $9/quart where I am (Seattle area).

So, re-calculating with the accurate numbers:

Materials cost per 4qt change: $9 for conventional, $41 for synthetic.

Total cost over 15,000 miles: $58 for conventional, $61 for synthetic, + $22.50 for the oil analysis that should be performed at 7,500 miles to verify that the extended drain interval is OK.

ZV

Wow ZV! That's pretty high!

Here in Texas we have synthetic oils from Wal Mart, Napa, and others, that are $5/qt or less. Napa sells a Napa-brand (made by Valvoline) full syn for like $4.69 or so. I think Wal-Mart also has similar pricing for their generic Supertech, which has variably been sourced from WPP and SOPUS, with overall very good reviews.

I'm thinking ZV was using name-brand synthetics and not Wal Mart oil for his price comparison.

FWIW, an engineer on a Jeep forum recently shared results of an SAE survey (I asked for a link, will post it if there is one) about motor oils. According to him, they did a 5 year study of roughly 500,000 vehicles, from rental fleets to ships, and Valvoline was the ONLY oil that passed specifications in ALL viscosities. I hope he has a link, it'll be interesting reading.

 

[Gillbot]

Originally posted by: Pacfanweb
FWIW, an engineer on a Jeep forum recently shared results of an SAE survey (I asked for a link, will post it if there is one) about motor oils. According to him, they did a 5 year study of roughly 500,000 vehicles, from rental fleets to ships, and Valvoline was the ONLY oil that passed specifications in ALL viscosities. I hope he has a link, it'll be interesting reading.

FWIW, in my tests, mobil1 has viscosity issues down to the batch. one bottle is inconsistent with another bottle of the same grade but different batch. for this reason, i blend my own grade using the 5w30 5qt jug and various other single quarts to get the viscosity i want.

 

[Arkaign]

Originally posted by: Pacfanweb

Originally posted by: Arkaign

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt

Originally posted by: KIAman
The only advantage synthetic might have is extending the oil change interval due to better break down characteristics which could save money on labor costs of an oil change if not done by oneself.

$5/qt 15,000 mile oil synthetic

vs

$1/qt for 3,000 mile oil dino

avg 4 qt total cost for oil is $25 vs $9 (assuming $5 filter).

avg labor cost of oil change = $20

in 15,000 miles

dino costs $145 (5 changes including parts and labor)
synthetic costs $45 (1 change including parts and labor)

As to the differences in engine life, quality, function, endurance, etc, there is no difference as long as the OCI (oil change interval) is followed.

Most cars sold today recommend a 7,500 mile change interval even with regular oil. Also, I don't know where you're getting synthetic for $5/quart. It runs about $9/quart where I am (Seattle area).

So, re-calculating with the accurate numbers:

Materials cost per 4qt change: $9 for conventional, $41 for synthetic.

Total cost over 15,000 miles: $58 for conventional, $61 for synthetic, + $22.50 for the oil analysis that should be performed at 7,500 miles to verify that the extended drain interval is OK.

ZV

Wow ZV! That's pretty high!

Here in Texas we have synthetic oils from Wal Mart, Napa, and others, that are $5/qt or less. Napa sells a Napa-brand (made by Valvoline) full syn for like $4.69 or so. I think Wal-Mart also has similar pricing for their generic Supertech, which has variably been sourced from WPP and SOPUS, with overall very good reviews.

I'm thinking ZV was using name-brand synthetics and not Wal Mart oil for his price comparison.

FWIW, an engineer on a Jeep forum recently shared results of an SAE survey (I asked for a link, will post it if there is one) about motor oils. According to him, they did a 5 year study of roughly 500,000 vehicles, from rental fleets to ships, and Valvoline was the ONLY oil that passed specifications in ALL viscosities. I hope he has a link, it'll be interesting reading.

It could also be that Washington state may have some special taxes on motor oils or something. Even brand-name synthetics can be found around here for around $6/qt. Although from what I've read, many of the 'generics' are either literally the same thing, or so close to it that it doesn't matter.

 

[Zenmervolt]

Originally posted by: Arkaign

Originally posted by: Pacfanweb
I'm thinking ZV was using name-brand synthetics and not Wal Mart oil for his price comparison.

FWIW, an engineer on a Jeep forum recently shared results of an SAE survey (I asked for a link, will post it if there is one) about motor oils. According to him, they did a 5 year study of roughly 500,000 vehicles, from rental fleets to ships, and Valvoline was the ONLY oil that passed specifications in ALL viscosities. I hope he has a link, it'll be interesting reading.

It could also be that Washington state may have some special taxes on motor oils or something. Even brand-name synthetics can be found around here for around $6/qt. Although from what I've read, many of the 'generics' are either literally the same thing, or so close to it that it doesn't matter.

Nah, I just won't go into a Wal-Mart if I can help it. Absolutely cannot stand the atmosphere; too crowded.

Mobil 1 runs about $9/quart in auto parts stores last time I checked. Could probably find it for $7 if one waited for a sale though.

ZV

 

[EightySix Four]

Mobil 1 is $7 here (texas) normally, and <$5 during sales.

 

[Arkaign]

Originally posted by: crazySOB297
Mobil 1 is $7 here (texas) normally, and <$5 during sales.

Hmm, I'm guessing that there's some kind of special state tax on oil in WA then.

 

[alkalinetaupehat]

Originally posted by: Gillbot

Originally posted by: Pacfanweb
FWIW, an engineer on a Jeep forum recently shared results of an SAE survey (I asked for a link, will post it if there is one) about motor oils. According to him, they did a 5 year study of roughly 500,000 vehicles, from rental fleets to ships, and Valvoline was the ONLY oil that passed specifications in ALL viscosities. I hope he has a link, it'll be interesting reading.

FWIW, in my tests, mobil1 has viscosity issues down to the batch. one bottle is inconsistent with another bottle of the same grade but different batch. for this reason, i blend my own grade using the 5w30 5qt jug and various other single quarts to get the viscosity i want.

Just curious, how do you go about grading the viscosity yourself? Send samples to a lab and then mix oils based on proportions?

 

[Gillbot]

Originally posted by: alkalinetaupehat

Originally posted by: Gillbot

Originally posted by: Pacfanweb
FWIW, an engineer on a Jeep forum recently shared results of an SAE survey (I asked for a link, will post it if there is one) about motor oils. According to him, they did a 5 year study of roughly 500,000 vehicles, from rental fleets to ships, and Valvoline was the ONLY oil that passed specifications in ALL viscosities. I hope he has a link, it'll be interesting reading.

FWIW, in my tests, mobil1 has viscosity issues down to the batch. one bottle is inconsistent with another bottle of the same grade but different batch. for this reason, i blend my own grade using the 5w30 5qt jug and various other single quarts to get the viscosity i want.

Just curious, how do you go about grading the viscosity yourself? Send samples to a lab and then mix oils based on proportions?

I have access to a full lab.

 

[alkalinetaupehat]

Originally posted by: Gillbot

Originally posted by: alkalinetaupehat

Originally posted by: Gillbot

Originally posted by: Pacfanweb
FWIW, an engineer on a Jeep forum recently shared results of an SAE survey (I asked for a link, will post it if there is one) about motor oils. According to him, they did a 5 year study of roughly 500,000 vehicles, from rental fleets to ships, and Valvoline was the ONLY oil that passed specifications in ALL viscosities. I hope he has a link, it'll be interesting reading.

FWIW, in my tests, mobil1 has viscosity issues down to the batch. one bottle is inconsistent with another bottle of the same grade but different batch. for this reason, i blend my own grade using the 5w30 5qt jug and various other single quarts to get the viscosity i want.

Just curious, how do you go about grading the viscosity yourself? Send samples to a lab and then mix oils based on proportions?

I have access to a full lab.

Lucky! Now the question would be what the variance between batches is, are we talking a 2% difference or more like 10%? Is there any industry standard on tolerances for this?

 

[Gillbot]

Honestly, the 30W stretches across the entire scale of what would be acceptable for a 30W oil. A friend in the industry stated shelf life and blend facility could be the main cause for the discrepancy but we haven't confirmed anything yet.

 

[SickBeast]

I just switched to Castrol Syntec in my Civic and I definitely notice a difference. The motor is quieter and smoother, and I could swear that it goes 10km/h faster on the highway for a given RPM. I also flushed the tranny fluid and changed the air filter, so those may have had an effect as well.

 

[Excelsior]

Originally posted by: SickBeast
I just switched to Castrol Syntec in my Civic and I definitely notice a difference. The motor is quieter and smoother, and I could swear that it goes 10km/h faster on the highway for a given RPM. I also flushed the tranny fluid and changed the air filter, so those may have had an effect as well.

Uh, I am no expert but I bet any noticeable difference there would be due to the air filter, not oil change.

 

[helpme]

Originally posted by: Excelsior

Originally posted by: SickBeast
I just switched to Castrol Syntec in my Civic and I definitely notice a difference. The motor is quieter and smoother, and I could swear that it goes 10km/h faster on the highway for a given RPM. I also flushed the tranny fluid and changed the air filter, so those may have had an effect as well.

Uh, I am no expert but I bet any noticeable difference there would be due to the air filter, not oil change.

He's doing a parody post, or at least I hope he is.

 

[SickBeast]

It's not a parody post.

Is it even possible for a car to go faster at a given RPM?

My car is definitely smoother with the synthetic and the new air filter. My wife notices it as well.

 

[Zenmervolt]

Originally posted by: Arkaign

Originally posted by: crazySOB297
Mobil 1 is $7 here (texas) normally, and <$5 during sales.

Hmm, I'm guessing that there's some kind of special state tax on oil in WA then.

Or the last time I priced it I did so at a bad time. I'm pretty sure that there are no special taxes on it, I must just have aberrant data.

ZV

 

[Zenmervolt]

Originally posted by: SickBeast
Is it even possible for a car to go faster at a given RPM?

No. It's not. Unless you shift gears.

The fact that you claim to notice such things, however, is strongly indicative of all the improvements you claim to notice being completely imaginary.

ZV

 

[SickBeast]

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt

Originally posted by: SickBeast
Is it even possible for a car to go faster at a given RPM?

No. It's not. Unless you shift gears.

The fact that you claim to notice such things, however, is strongly indicative of all the improvements you claim to notice being completely imaginary.

ZV

There's no way that my wife and I are imagining a quieter motor and a smoother ride. The RPM thing I was unsure of.

There are plenty of people who think that synthetic is better. In cold conditions I've heard that it is much better than regular oil. I sometimes drive in -30C weather here in Canada. I'm sure it will be better for my car.

Hey BTW, how long can I drive my Civic before changing my oil now that I have synthetic in there?

 

[desy]

In Sask I go 15k miles 24 k kms in two vehicles basically once a year changes.

Put in syth before winter starts, but I drive slow 100k on the HW and the engine gets to proper temperature for a good long time, every trip.

 

[LTC8K6]

Synthetic flows better in very cold temps, one of it's few actual advantages, if you happen to live in a very cold climate.