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Summer Is In Full Swing And It's Time To Get Your Car Looking Great!

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wax questions

A friend of the family once told me that I should never use any wax that had silicone in it because it would bond to the paint. Anyone else hear this?
 
Originally posted by: SVT Cobra
Originally posted by: Doodoo
I always thought Armor All would dry out your trim. For trim, i like using Aerospace 303.
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It has silicon in it, which is bad for leather as it absorbs oils, but plastic nor vinyl need worry.
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I've also read reports that they reformulated their formula which has made it a much nicer product.

Although, for me, 303 is the only way to go.
 
Originally posted by: azazyel
wax questions

A friend of the family once told me that I should never use any wax that had silicone in it because it would bond to the paint. Anyone else hear this?
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On old paint yes. New paints it does not, and even if it did there is clear coat on top.
 
Anyone know how to get rid of a hazy spot on the paint? Not sure if its oxidation doesn't have the texture but it looks crappy. might just be the 13 year old paint fading. I'm about to try buffing it with rubbing compound to see if I can restore the shine.

Pic
 
Originally posted by: HiTek21
Anyone know how to get rid of a hazy spot on the paint? Not sure if its oxidation doesn't have the texture but it looks crappy. might just be the 13 year old paint fading. I'm about to try buffing it with rubbing compound to see if I can restore the shine.

Pic
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Yup you need some rubbing compound. It is oxidation in the clear coat, luckily it has not hit the paint or it would rust. This is why it is so important to clay your car every 6 months or so.
 
Man, I'd so do this to my truck, but the primary roads I drive on right now are in the process of being torn up by idiot road construction crews trying to justify their jobs and budget, and there's so much crap in the air, that I have to spray my windshield 2 or 3 times while driving through the stretch. 🙁
 
Originally posted by: Raduque
Man, I'd so do this to my truck, but the primary roads I drive on right now are in the process of being torn up by idiot road construction crews trying to justify their jobs and budget, and there's so much crap in the air, that I have to spray my windshield 2 or 3 times while driving through the stretch. 🙁
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🙁 I hate that, I have the same problem near me also, except they are building an old folks home complex and have about 1000acres of dirt they are building on, yet they still need to rip up the road 7-8 times and repave it crappy and have their machinery go into the road so the police need to block it off and conduct traffic. :|:|:|
 
Great thead OP, good work.

EDIT: Quick question, what do you say to using a leaf blower or shop vac to dry the car "touchless" as opposed to a towel?
 
I went to the ocean for a week and during the stay salt-water mist bedded into the paint and glass.

For the paint I am able to use rubbing compound to work out the salt stains. With the windows vinegar and water doesn't work.

Rogo
 
Thanks for the guide. I was planning on claybarring my car for the first time but didn't really know how. Reading this helped a lot.
 
Originally posted by: Rogodin2
I went to the ocean for a week and during the stay salt-water mist bedded into the paint and glass.

For the paint I am able to use rubbing compound to work out the salt stains. With the windows vinegar and water doesn't work.

Rogo
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If you look online they have a mineral build up product for glass, usually for when someone parks there car near a sprinkler for a while. I cannot remember the name, but I'll PM you if I do.
 
Originally posted by: quentinterintino
Great thead OP, good work.

EDIT: Quick question, what do you say to using a leaf blower or shop vac to dry the car "touchless" as opposed to a towel?
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That is actually the preferable method as long as the tube is clean and blowing only air (not dirt particles also) as you can blow all the water out of the cracks that would later dribble out and leave marks.
 
I have to recommend the meguairs gold class car shampoo. That thing smells great and leaves my car looking superb compared to other soaps and especially that craptastic mr clean doodad. My trim and car actually looked really good just from washing. I'm so used to my trim turning white (they're grey and I have a black car....so yeah) so I'm glad I decided to try it out. It's a lot cheaper than mr clean BS!!
 
I have a question in regards to paint, it's somewhat related to the detailing:

I noticed that I have very fine, spiderweb-sized cracks in my paint. When I am wiping the hood down for instance after a clay bar, the microfiber towel seems to get caught in them, however no rust has formed in them. They are very very small cracks, but seem to cover almost my entire hood. I have tried to avoid rust and what-not getting in them by making sure that I wax twice a year and put a layer of polish 4-5 times a year.

It has been like that ever since I got the car. It's a '96 Mazda. I only notice it on the front hood. If I wax and polish the hood up enough the microfiber towels won't get caught on the tiny cracks. They are literally thinner than a strand of human hair, very very small.
 
Originally posted by: Juddog
I have a question in regards to paint, it's somewhat related to the detailing:

I noticed that I have very fine, spiderweb-sized cracks in my paint. When I am wiping the hood down for instance after a clay bar, the microfiber towel seems to get caught in them, however no rust has formed in them. They are very very small cracks, but seem to cover almost my entire hood. I have tried to avoid rust and what-not getting in them by making sure that I wax twice a year and put a layer of polish 4-5 times a year.

It has been like that ever since I got the car. It's a '96 Mazda. I only notice it on the front hood. If I wax and polish the hood up enough the microfiber towels won't get caught on the tiny cracks. They are literally thinner than a strand of human hair, very very small.
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It was a bad paint job. As long as you wax regularly and use a mild polish you should be fine.
 
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