Summer Is In Full Swing And It's Time To Get Your Car Looking Great!

[ElFenix]

Originally posted by: SVT Cobra

Originally posted by: ElFenix

Originally posted by: SVT Cobra

Originally posted by: ElFenix
so what's the best way to get rid of all those little paint bits from people dinging my car with their doors?

Their paint on your doors?

yup

edit: some of my paint is probably scraped up from it, too

It is going to require a high speed buffer most likely. Do you want to go that route?

probably something i shouldn't be doing on my own as a newb, huh?

 

[SVT Cobra]

Originally posted by: ElFenix

Originally posted by: SVT Cobra

Originally posted by: ElFenix

Originally posted by: SVT Cobra

Originally posted by: ElFenix
so what's the best way to get rid of all those little paint bits from people dinging my car with their doors?

Their paint on your doors?

yup

edit: some of my paint is probably scraped up from it, too

It is going to require a high speed buffer most likely. Do you want to go that route?

probably something i shouldn't be doing on my own as a newb, huh?

Unless you want to get a hood from a local junk yard and practice, no.

 

[SVT Cobra]

Up 😀

 

[j00fek]

swiffer dusters work like magic in your car...try it

 

[FeuerFrei]

Originally posted by: SVT Cobra

Originally posted by: Nutdotnet

Originally posted by: slag

Originally posted by: Nutdotnet
I think I made mention of this last year when you originally posted your thread but...

Bath Towel for drying? You give out all this wealth of information and then you say to go ahead and use a bath towel?

I'm surprised that you don't know how poor bath towels are for drying.

For one, they're much more abrasive than using other drying methods. If you (or others) don't believe me, take a bath towel and rub it against the burned-side of a CD. Now do this with a Microfiber cloth....I bet the first one leaves light scratches in the CD.

Also, bath towels have a much greater likleyhood of trapping, and keeping, dirt locked into their fibers. Granted, a vehicle should be 100% clean while drying but IF there's a small speck or two of dirt on the vehicle while drying a microfiber drying towel will release it from it's fibers...a bath towel will simply trap it in.

General-purpose towels are bad man...

I use 100% white cotton terrycloth type towels with no embroidering or tags or anything. They work great. The deep nap is great for drying the car and not nearly as expensive as a good microfiber cloth. Microfiber also has a tendency to get a piece of dirt and drag it along the surface of the car, thus scratching it.

Right, but Microfiber also has the ability to release dirt much easier than bath towels.

Actually it hangs on to it.

You do realize microfiber towels were first developed for dusting right? Same concept as a swifer.

How do you get the dirt out of the towel? It likes to cling. Despite running it through the washer it still has small plant debris fragments lodged in it. (Yes I park under a tree)

 

[SVT Cobra]

Originally posted by: FeuerFrei

Originally posted by: SVT Cobra

Originally posted by: Nutdotnet

Originally posted by: slag

Originally posted by: Nutdotnet
I think I made mention of this last year when you originally posted your thread but...

Bath Towel for drying? You give out all this wealth of information and then you say to go ahead and use a bath towel?

I'm surprised that you don't know how poor bath towels are for drying.

For one, they're much more abrasive than using other drying methods. If you (or others) don't believe me, take a bath towel and rub it against the burned-side of a CD. Now do this with a Microfiber cloth....I bet the first one leaves light scratches in the CD.

Also, bath towels have a much greater likleyhood of trapping, and keeping, dirt locked into their fibers. Granted, a vehicle should be 100% clean while drying but IF there's a small speck or two of dirt on the vehicle while drying a microfiber drying towel will release it from it's fibers...a bath towel will simply trap it in.

General-purpose towels are bad man...

I use 100% white cotton terrycloth type towels with no embroidering or tags or anything. They work great. The deep nap is great for drying the car and not nearly as expensive as a good microfiber cloth. Microfiber also has a tendency to get a piece of dirt and drag it along the surface of the car, thus scratching it.

Right, but Microfiber also has the ability to release dirt much easier than bath towels.

Actually it hangs on to it.

You do realize microfiber towels were first developed for dusting right? Same concept as a swifer.

How do you get the dirt out of the towel? It likes to cling. Despite running it through the washer it still has small plant debris fragments lodged in it. (Yes I park under a tree)

I believe you can buy a special static thing for the wash that will remove those things...but here we just throw them out if they get that bad.

 

[M0oG0oGaiPan]

I'm bumping this thread because it's nice out and I think I'm going to try some of these tips. Thanks. Oh actually I had a question. Do you have any tips on cleaning the engine area.

 

[SVT Cobra]

Originally posted by: M0oG0oGaiPan
I'm bumping this thread because it's nice out and I think I'm going to try some of these tips. Thanks. Oh actually I had a question. Do you have any tips on cleaning the engine area.

Cover up any electronics! 😉

Basically you can use a wet rag to wipe most things off. A degreaser for the tough stuff and then metal and plastic polish next, and a good sealent/protectant for the plastics/paint last.

 

[alien42]

Originally posted by: M0oG0oGaiPan
I'm bumping this thread because it's nice out and I think I'm going to try some of these tips. Thanks. Oh actually I had a question. Do you have any tips on cleaning the engine area.

i was thinking the same thing earlier today, searched for this thread, stocked up at the evil wal-mart and am going to following a rough version of svt cobras 'guide' the first weekend in may. i will upload a pic of my supplies soon and if successful will post pics of before and after.

this clay bar video should be handy (its an ad but seems to be a good how-to).

i did a basic wash of my car tonight and realized just how 'rough' with particles my car is. it seems as though the clay bar stage will be the most significant and potentially most hazardous stage.

 

[SarcasticDwarf]

SVT,

This is my shortened version of what you wrote. Tell me if you think this sounds right.


1) Fully wash the truck top to bottom doing the wheels first.
2) Clay bar using Mothers California Gold package following said directions.
3) Use cleaner wax (Question: is the included Mothers carnauba good or should I use Meguiars?)
4) Clean with microfiber (Question: Should I do this at any other point?)
5) Hand apply Meguiars gold class paint wax (a buffer is not an option for me)
6) Apply tire polish




More questions:
What would you recommend for the washed out black bumper parts?
I saw some Meguiars polish (liquid, not a spray bottle). At what point would that be applied? Is that the pre-waxing?

 

[NoShangriLa]

I rarely go that far with my car, however I run it through a touch less car wash to clean the under side of the car every week or two in the winter. In the spring I pressure was the under side of my car and check for any thing that out of the ordinary before the spring oil change.

PS. Thanks for the guide.

 

[alien42]

Originally posted by: alien42

Originally posted by: M0oG0oGaiPan
I'm bumping this thread because it's nice out and I think I'm going to try some of these tips. Thanks. Oh actually I had a question. Do you have any tips on cleaning the engine area.

i was thinking the same thing earlier today, searched for this thread, stocked up at the evil wal-mart and am going to following a rough version of svt cobras 'guide' the first weekend in may. i will upload a pic of my supplies soon and if successful will post pics of before and after.

this clay bar video should be handy (its an ad but seems to be a good how-to).

i did a basic wash of my car tonight and realized just how 'rough' with particles my car is. it seems as though the clay bar stage will be the most significant and potentially most hazardous stage.

the supplies i picked up based on svts guide for $70 (minus the wheel cleaner) from wal-mart.

 

[theeedude]

How much does a service like this cost for a small car?

 

[NoShangriLa]

Originally posted by: senseamp
How much does a service like this cost for a small car?

Don't know how much now but in the late 80s it cost about $180-200 here in Canada.

 

[alien42]

Originally posted by: senseamp
How much does a service like this cost for a small car?

a random price in atlanta:

"Small Cars & Trucks $225
Sedans & Small SUV's $250
Mid size Trucks/ SUV's & Vans $275
Full size Trucks/ SUV's &Vans $299" *

 

[HiTek21]

Theres nothing like a freshly claybarred, polished, and waxed vehicle. takes a long time but the end results makes it all worth while.

 

[Zee]

my rims are good but the rotors are basically rust orange? what do you suggest, clean em through the rims or take off the rims? Or take off the rotors completely which i heard is a pain in the ass for The mazda3

 

[SVT Cobra]

Originally posted by: SarcasticDwarf
SVT,

This is my shortened version of what you wrote. Tell me if you think this sounds right.


1) Fully wash the truck top to bottom doing the wheels first.
2) Clay bar using Mothers California Gold package following said directions.
3) Use cleaner wax (Question: is the included Mothers carnauba good or should I use Meguiars?)It should say cleaner wax, carnuba wax is not cleaner war
4) Clean with microfiber (Question: Should I do this at any other point?)whenever you want after you have waxed if you get over spray from things when you are done
5) Hand apply Meguiars gold class paint wax (a buffer is not an option for me)
6) Apply tire polish




More questions:
What would you recommend for the washed out black bumper parts?
I saw some Meguiars polish (liquid, not a spray bottle). At what point would that be applied? Is that the pre-waxing?

Apply after your first coat of wax, Mothers Back To Black is great.

 

[SVT Cobra]

Originally posted by: alien42

Originally posted by: alien42

Originally posted by: M0oG0oGaiPan
I'm bumping this thread because it's nice out and I think I'm going to try some of these tips. Thanks. Oh actually I had a question. Do you have any tips on cleaning the engine area.

i was thinking the same thing earlier today, searched for this thread, stocked up at the evil wal-mart and am going to following a rough version of svt cobras 'guide' the first weekend in may. i will upload a pic of my supplies soon and if successful will post pics of before and after.

this clay bar video should be handy (its an ad but seems to be a good how-to).

i did a basic wash of my car tonight and realized just how 'rough' with particles my car is. it seems as though the clay bar stage will be the most significant and potentially most hazardous stage.

the supplies i picked up based on svts guide for $70 (minus the wheel cleaner) from wal-mart.

Very nice selection. Just make sure to use very very small amounts of that Gold Class wax especially if you are applying by hand as it is very thick. You might eve want to thin it first with some rubbing alchohol. If you do not be careful it can leave some seriously residue buildup that will turn an ugly white after a few days. When it doubt, less is more. If you do get the spots or wax that just will not come off a 50/50 mixture of water and rubbing alchohol will take it off, or go over it with the quick detailer again.

 

[SVT Cobra]

Originally posted by: Zee
my rims are good but the rotors are basically rust orange? what do you suggest, clean em through the rims or take off the rims? Or take off the rotors completely which i heard is a pain in the ass for The mazda3

The part where the brake goes over or the untoched part? Usually with hard breaking the rust does not go off. If it does not, then jack the car up and clean them off and then you will want to paint them so it does not happen again. Any heat resistant spray paint is good, just make sure to sand sand sand. Start out at like 500 grit and work your way up to 2000, then paint it one. Do not worry about overspray (do not do it when it is windy though) as if it gets on other parts of the brakes it will eventually be burned off by friction). You may want to paint your calipers while you are at it if they are not already painted.

 

[SVT Cobra]

Originally posted by: alien42

Originally posted by: senseamp
How much does a service like this cost for a small car?

a random price in atlanta:

"Small Cars & Trucks $225
Sedans & Small SUV's $250
Mid size Trucks/ SUV's & Vans $275
Full size Trucks/ SUV's &Vans $299" *

That's about right. By doing it yourself not only do you save a lot of money but all those supplies you bought can be used over and over again.

 

[SarcasticDwarf]

Originally posted by: SVT Cobra

Originally posted by: SarcasticDwarf
SVT,

This is my shortened version of what you wrote. Tell me if you think this sounds right.


1) Fully wash the truck top to bottom doing the wheels first.
2) Clay bar using Mothers California Gold package following said directions.
3) Use cleaner wax (Question: is the included Mothers carnauba good or should I use Meguiars?)It should say cleaner wax, carnuba wax is not cleaner war
4) Clean with microfiber (Question: Should I do this at any other point?)whenever you want after you have waxed if you get over spray from things when you are done
5) Hand apply Meguiars gold class paint wax (a buffer is not an option for me)
6) Apply tire polish




More questions:
What would you recommend for the washed out black bumper parts?
I saw some Meguiars polish (liquid, not a spray bottle). At what point would that be applied? Is that the pre-waxing?

Apply after your first coat of wax, Mothers Back To Black is great.

If you go here you can see it listed as "Carnauba Cleaner Wax" for the kit.

And what stage does the polish go on? It was not clear from your post.

 

[SVT Cobra]

Originally posted by: SarcasticDwarf

Originally posted by: SVT Cobra

Originally posted by: SarcasticDwarf
SVT,

This is my shortened version of what you wrote. Tell me if you think this sounds right.


1) Fully wash the truck top to bottom doing the wheels first.
2) Clay bar using Mothers California Gold package following said directions.
3) Use cleaner wax (Question: is the included Mothers carnauba good or should I use Meguiars?)It should say cleaner wax, carnuba wax is not cleaner war
4) Clean with microfiber (Question: Should I do this at any other point?)whenever you want after you have waxed if you get over spray from things when you are done
5) Hand apply Meguiars gold class paint wax (a buffer is not an option for me)
6) Apply tire polish




More questions:
What would you recommend for the washed out black bumper parts?
I saw some Meguiars polish (liquid, not a spray bottle). At what point would that be applied? Is that the pre-waxing?

Apply after your first coat of wax, Mothers Back To Black is great.

If you go here you can see it listed as "Carnauba Cleaner Wax" for the kit.

And what stage does the polish go on? It was not clear from your post.

:thumbsup: That's fine then.

Polish goes on after cleaner wax, before regular wax.

 

[mooglekit]

tagged

 

[RagingBITCH]

Nice Guide!