Stopped at a red light with a MT car. 1st gear clutch in or neutral?

[amdhunter]

Clutched in. I don't like the idea of not being able to move at a moments notice. I've been rear ended THREE times standing at a red light in the last 2 years. (well, once was passing by a green, but had to stop for kids crossing...)

 

[waffleironhead]

clutch in. Except for my cherokee though, there is something with the angle that my foot is at that bothers me when I hold the clutch down for awhile.

 

[Zap]

Clutched in. I don't like the idea of not being able to move at a moments notice. I've been rear ended THREE times standing at a red light in the last 2 years.

That's a good point. I once was almost rear ended by a motorcycle while stopped at a red light. I heard tires screetching and saw it coming up behind me in my mirror (dude was almost laying it down to avoid the impact). I was already in gear so I was able to move out of the way quick enough to avoid being hit.

 

[Demon-Xanth]

Depends on how long.

 

[Jeff7181]

Depends on how long.

That's what she said.

 

[Ronstang]

TOB can fail early if the pedal is adjusted incorrectly such that the TOB is riding the pressure plate all the time and not just when the pedal is pressed. But holding it down at a light is considered normal use and normal wear and tear.

I keep it in neutral usually just because I have a very heavy clutch and your leg will turn into a noodle if you keep holding it down like that.

I thought all the newer Mustangs with cable clutches had throw out bearings that were engaged all the time....it is a function of keeping the cable correctly adjusted.

 

[exdeath]

I thought all the newer Mustangs with cable clutches had throw out bearings that were engaged all the time....it is a function of keeping the cable correctly adjusted.

On the 03/04 Cobras, that's how it is, and most all of them experience early TOB failure before 30,000 miles (famous TOB/retainer sleeve squeal). There is supposed to be slack in in the cable to allow the fork/TOB to "float" and prevent pressure plate contact, because as you tighten the cable it begins to pull the fork forward. The correct way to fix it is with a preload spring between the fork and the bellhousing. Then you can take all the cable slack out of the pedal and have immediate clutch engagement with no dead space in the pedal, while the spring keeps the cable tight and prevents it from relaxing under rest tension and tugging on the fork when you get it nice and tight.

The other culprit is the junk stock plastic ratchet style adjuster that wears and loses adjustment easily, especially as the clutch wears and exceeds it's adjustment range. It's best to go with a aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster, and "freeplay correction kit" (aka spring between bellhousing and fork). Keeps your clutch pedal nice and firm while also prolonging TOB life by keeping it clear of the PP when not in use.

The S197 uses a hydraulic TOB, and thus doesn't have the problem with having to fight cable tension to keep the TOB clear (the return spring in the hydraulic system pulls it clear).

 

[angry hampster]

I always put it into neutral and then shifted into gear once the light going the other way turned yellow.

Same. If the green the other way is going stale I'll keep it in first. Having my clutch down for more than 20 seconds or so gets a bit annoying.

 

[DivideBYZero]

Neutral if I'm going to be there for a while. First gear, clutch in if I'm moving in a couple seconds.

Winning post.

 

[Stefan Payne]

I've driven a manual trans car my entire life - I've never burnt out a clutch and never had a TOB fail.

You drove the wrong cars
Our 01 Toyota Avensis (T22FL) Diesel needed 2 clutches in about 70.000km (and ended up with a broken flywheel, both are common problems) and my 86 RX7 FC (NA) also had a worn out clutch (they normally don't burn out, if they are worn out, you can't get the power from the engine to the gearbox).

 

[CupCak3]

clutch in, unless it's a known long-ass light, or a train, etc.

this.

I have ~140k on original clutch on 2001 Pontiac Sunfire.

 

[StageLeft]

Neutral. IMO newbs keep it in gear unless you believe you're about to go soon. When you keep the clutch pedal in (clutch disengaged) the hydraulic system is under constant pressure.

 

[EightySix Four]

Neutral. IMO newbs keep it in gear unless you believe you're about to go soon. When you keep the clutch pedal in (clutch disengaged) the hydraulic system is under constant pressure.

IMO older people put it in neutral. They don't have the muscle strength to hold the clutch down anymore.


See how that works?

 

[Stefan Payne]

Well I do too, if i drive that Skoda Fabia but I also use the handbrake if 'im standing.

But normally I drive an automatic.

 

[sdifox]

I was taught to put it in neutral. So I do.

Haven't driven stick in oh, 20 years now.

 

[Greenman]

Car or truck and it goes into neutral, bike is always clutch in and first gear until I'm comfortable that I'm not going to get rear ended.

 

[HarryLui]

Clutched in. I don't like the idea of not being able to move at a moments notice. I've been rear ended THREE times standing at a red light in the last 2 years. (well, once was passing by a green, but had to stop for kids crossing...)

Being clutched in didn't help you to stopped being rear-ended again and again....

 

[Colt45]

When you keep the clutch pedal in (clutch disengaged) the hydraulic system is under constant pressure.

And when you stand on the brakes, the hydraulic system is under constant pressure. That's what hydraulics are for...

 

[StageLeft]

And when you stand on the brakes, the hydraulic system is under constant pressure. That's what hydraulics are for...

No, hydraulic systems are not "for" staying under constant pressure, it is merely a side effect of how they work. A brake system is under hardly any pressure at all when you're stopped at a light with your foot gently rested on it.

 

[CupCak3]

lol... that's funny. I've never heard of a car having any sort of hydraulic failure which wasn't caused by pump failure, plugging or line failure due to something rubbing or cutting it.

 

[StageLeft]

lol... that's funny. I've never heard of a car having any sort of hydraulic failure which wasn't caused by pump failure, plugging or line failure due to something rubbing or cutting it.

All this says is that you haven't been around cars much.

 

[skyking]

All this says is that you haven't been around cars much.

Says the guy who was a recent victim of the "creeps".
Hey, why is my cart starting to go?:hmm:

 

[HannibalX]

Years ago in driving school they taught us to always stay in gear while stopped in case you have to move rapidly in an emergency situation. Not sure how I feel about it now though, I do both and don't have a standard.

What annoys me is stupid people rocking back and forth. I had some dipshit roll into the front of my car with his pickup a few years ago because he was trying to be cool rocking back and forth at a light.

 

[StageLeft]

Says the guy who was a recent victim of the "creeps".
Hey, why is my cart starting to go?:hmm:

No idea what you're talking about.

 

[ViviTheMage]

Neutral if I'm going to be there for a while. First gear, clutch in if I'm moving in a couple seconds.

^^