stock core i7 920 running too hot with prime95

[Rubycon]

Originally posted by: Yoxxy

Is there an advantage to using the ARECA in this day and age? After dealing with SCSI for years I am more than happy to be running 2 raids onboard, 2x 2TB WD and 2X 64 GIG SLC Intel drives and lose a bit in the way of performance.

Absolutely. One properly set up provides consistent performance and availability. It's expensive but good performance is never cheap.

 

[The-Noid]

What speeds do you get for read/write and latency? Sorry to be off topic on this one.

What I have done is just scripted files to move onto the SLC's and during non-peak or times that the drives are getting full to 'archive' onto the WD drives.

 

[Rubycon]

Text

Cache hits = 100µS random access avg. Misses fall to the SAS 15k spindles - 5.5mS.

 

[JAG87]

Originally posted by: Rubycon
Text

Cache hits = 100µS random access avg. Misses fall to the SAS 15k spindles - 5.5mS.

That's retarded fast. You're almost getting near the 2GB/s someone got with the 24 samsung SSDs. But that random read/write, lmfao. How many and what drives is that?

 

[Rubycon]

10 Fujitsu MBA3147 15K SAS RAID0 128K stripe.

 

[JAG87]

gah :S too much money

 

[Rubycon]

It is but I'm so spoiled it's not funny. I have another system (QX9650 at 3.6GHz, 8GB DDR2-1066 etc.) with a 150GB Velociraptor and it crawls compared to the SAS array particularly when starting up. There's nothing wrong with the system, it's just slow compared to mine. The speed difference is like comparing a modern desktop PC with a modern notebook PC. Surfing and stuff like that when you're up and running is basically the same but when you start doing real work that taxes the storage system there is no comparison whatsoever. Not even in the same season.

 

[khoang82]

Originally posted by: chizow

Originally posted by: khoang82
Can you describe how to test the loose clamp?

thanks,
Khoa

i7 Socket
Sorry its not more clear, I made all the marks in snipping tool and it wouldn't let me add more but here's a walkthrough:

1) The 4 circular grommeted bolts attaching the entire socket assembly have some give to them. It may appear to be a defect, but some give is necessary due to the pressure and torque created from the clamping mechanism.

2) The red circle shows a flange that sits on the CPU IHS, not the contact surface, but the recessed edge, holding the CPU in place. However, this prevents part A from sitting flat in the socket as it did previously, its at a slight incllined angle now.

3) The blue circled flange once closed goes underneath a clamp controlled by the lever at B, creating the downward pressure on the assembly holding everything in place.

4) Once everything is closed and the lever is locked into position, the A cover flap will still be slightly angled. You will want to place a flat object across the top of the CPU IHS to ensure no part of A is higher than the CPU IHS surface.

Hope that helps explain, if you need more detailed instructions I can try to mark up that pdf a bit better.

First of all, thanks for taking the time on the details of your instruction. I am not able to access your link thus have no idea what you mean by red/blue circle. Could you re-pose the links?

Thanks,
Khoa

 

[chizow]

Hmmm, try in my original post again or this one:

i7 socket pic

 

[khoang82]

Originally posted by: chizow
Hmmm, try in my original post again or this one:

i7 socket pic

I am not sure what i am doing wrong but I can't access the file.

Khoa

 

[Rubycon]

It's hosted on some crappy live service by MS.

 

[khoang82]

One thing i dont really understand is P6t deluxe is a very expensive motherboard and here I am having to worry about if the clamp is in place. I would expect such quality from a lowerend MB, but not from a relative expensive one. All i was trying to do is run Prim95 @2.66 Ghz with Turbo Mode On without overheating the cpu.
sigh...

Would Evga X58 be a better choice? Do i need to worry about this kind of detail on it?

Khoa

 

[chizow]

Originally posted by: khoang82

Originally posted by: chizow
Hmmm, try in my original post again or this one:

i7 socket pic

I am not sure what i am doing wrong but I can't access the file.

Khoa

WTF, ok try this i7 socket

Idk earlier it was inserting some weird https// into the addy. There's also some permissions and such so perhaps you need to have a live account. Anyways that link above should work.

Originally posted by: Rubycon
It's hosted on some crappy live service by MS.

So much MS hate! I actually like the service a lot, when it works. 25GB of fast web storage without any annoying pop-ups or forced resizing and such.

 

[khoang82]

I did exactly that. The question is how do i use a razor or credit card to ensure proper contact between the V1 and the CPU?

Khoa

 

[chizow]

Originally posted by: khoang82
I did exactly that. The question is how do i use a razor or credit card to ensure proper contact between the V1 and the CPU?

Khoa

Just lay the edge of the razor blade or credit card across the top of the CPU once everything is inserted. If the blade or credit card isn't touching any part of the clamp assembly labeled "A" in the pic, then you're fine. If the straight edge is touching the clamp, it means its protruding over the CPU heatsink preventing solid contact.

 

[khoang82]

of all the V1 reviews in newegg.com, i have seen only 5 using with core i7. Of those 5, 3 use the V1 and tries to overclock. all 3 reviews were negative, not able to handle prime95. Does anyone have good/bad experience using this cooler?

Would you recommend other cooler?

Thanks,
Khoa

 

[Rubycon]

Text

Just get it, mount it and enjoy.

 

[khoang82]

How is the thermalright compare with Noctua NH-U12P SE1366 Ultra Silent CPU Cooler? The reason i ask is because Noctua is available locally here.

Khoa

 

[sgrinavi]

Originally posted by: khoang82
How is the thermalright compare with Noctua NH-U12P SE1366 Ultra Silent CPU Cooler? The reason i ask is because Noctua is available locally here.

Khoa

it does not matter what cooler you are using if the CPU is loose under the mount! Purchasing another cooler will not solve your problem.

Mine was so bad that the cpu clamp flanges were not even touching the processor.

Just lay the edge of the razor blade or credit card across the top of the CPU once everything is inserted. If the blade or credit card isn't touching any part of the clamp assembly labeled "A" in the pic, then you're fine. If the straight edge is touching the clamp, it means its protruding over the CPU heatsink preventing solid contact.

Did you do this?

 

[Meat1000]

Khoang82, I had the same exact problems w/ my EVGA x58 SLI board. I just could not get the temps to be reasonable no matter how many times i reseated that damn stock HS and no matter how hard I pushed on those pins (my thumbs were bruised the next day one time). The stock HS had a pretty big scratch in it, so I thought, maybe that was the problem and returned it, still same issues.

All roads pointed to me not mounting it properly, but I wasn't sure how to do it, I simply just couldn't push any harder.

So, I purchased this HSF Xigamatek Dark Knight (look up Benchmark Reviews guide how to properly apply thermal paste to direct heatpipe coolers as it's different than one w/ a heatspreader)

It's not as good at the Thermaright (but not very far behind it) and is only 40 dollars. I'm quite a noob at this, so I was extremely pleased to find that it was very easy to install as well and that it uses screws to mount so I didn't have to fool w/ those mounting pins anymore.

The results were good. My idles went from 55-60 across all cores to 34-38, and from 85-90 to 55-60 at full load (running 8 instances of Prime 95).

I know this is cheesy and probably not a true overclock, buy using EVGA's e-leet utility, I put the clock speed to 3.2 ghz and saw no change in my idle. I ran Sandra's CPU benchmarks and my CPU temps were high 40s w/ one core hitting 51 degrees at max (wasn't a good stress test, but the bench does max out the CPU usage.)

Just figured I share a very similar experience, but I am a noob at this and the others are more qualified to help you.

 

[khoang82]

Originally posted by: sgrinavi

Originally posted by: khoang82
How is the thermalright compare with Noctua NH-U12P SE1366 Ultra Silent CPU Cooler? The reason i ask is because Noctua is available locally here.

Khoa

it does not matter what cooler you are using if the CPU is loose under the mount! Purchasing another cooler will not solve your problem.

Mine was so bad that the cpu clamp flanges were not even touching the processor.

Just lay the edge of the razor blade or credit card across the top of the CPU once everything is inserted. If the blade or credit card isn't touching any part of the clamp assembly labeled "A" in the pic, then you're fine. If the straight edge is touching the clamp, it means its protruding over the CPU heatsink preventing solid contact.

Did you do this?

I am out of town so i don't have access to the hardware until later. I will surely try it. I was just browsing aroudn annd see plenty of bad reviews on the v1.
Khoa

 

[khoang82]

Originally posted by: Meat1000
Khoang82, I had the same exact problems w/ my EVGA x58 SLI board. I just could not get the temps to be reasonable no matter how many times i reseated that damn stock HS and no matter how hard I pushed on those pins (my thumbs were bruised the next day one time). The stock HS had a pretty big scratch in it, so I thought, maybe that was the problem and returned it, still same issues.

All roads pointed to me not mounting it properly, but I wasn't sure how to do it, I simply just couldn't push any harder.

So, I purchased this HSF Xigamatek Dark Knight (look up FrozenCPU's guide how to properly apply thermal paste to direct heatpipe coolers as it's different than one w/ a heatspreader)

It's not as good at the Thermaright (but not very far behind it) and is only 40 dollars. I'm quite a noob at this, so I was extremely pleased to find that it was very easy to install as well and that it uses screws to mount so I didn't have to fool w/ those mounting pins anymore.

The results were good. My idles went from 55-60 across all cores to 34-38, and from 85-90 to 55-60 at full load (running 8 instances of Prime 95).

I know this is cheesy and probably not a true overclock, buy using EVGA's e-leet utility, I put the clock speed to 3.2 ghz and saw no change in my idle. I ran Sandra's CPU benchmarks and my CPU temps were high 40s w/ one core hitting 51 degrees at max (wasn't a good stress test, but the bench does max out the CPU usage.)

Just figured I share a very similar experience, but I am a noob at this and the others are more qualified to help you.

Thanks for the info. I am hoping i can get your results

 

[chizow]

Originally posted by: khoang82
How is the thermalright compare with Noctua NH-U12P SE1366 Ultra Silent CPU Cooler? The reason i ask is because Noctua is available locally here.

Khoa

The Noctua is an excellent cooler, probably in the top 3 overall for air coolers. It has a very good bolt-through mounting mechanism. The V1 you have should absolutely be adequate for cooling an i7 at stock speeds, however, it does look pretty wimpy overall....like a gimpy version of a Zalman HS. Your temp problems might be caused by the push-pin mounts actually, so upgrading to a bolt-through sink like the Noctua, TRUE or the Black Knight that Meat1000 linked would certainly help. I would still use a straight edge to check your CPU/socket first.

 

[khoang82]

The Noctua is an excellent cooler, probably in the top 3 overall for air coolers. It has a very good bolt-through mounting mechanism. The V1 you have should absolutely be adequate for cooling an i7 at stock speeds, however, it does look pretty wimpy overall....like a gimpy version of a Zalman HS. Your temp problems might be caused by the push-pin mounts actually, so upgrading to a bolt-through sink like the Noctua, TRUE or the Black Knight that Meat1000 linked would certainly help. I would still use a straight edge to check your CPU/socket first.

I will definitely try to check the clamp. since you are mentioning that Noctua is top 3, I must ask what are the other 2?

Khoa

 

[chizow]

Originally posted by: khoang82
I will definitely try to check the clamp. since you are mentioning that Noctua is top 3, I must ask what are the other 2?

Khoa

The TRUE linked earlier and the Prolimatech Megahalems along with the Noctua NH-U12P are generally regarded as the best air coolers. One nice thing about the Noctua is that it includes 2 very high quality fans. They retail for $20-25 each.

There's a few others that are very close, like the CoolerMaster V8 along with some HDT (heatpipe direct touch) like the Black Knight, HDT-S1283, OCZ Gladiator or Vendetta 2, Tuniq Core Contact etc. that perform very similarly to the top tier coolers at a fraction of the cost.