SR20 Engine Assembly

[manimal]

Thought you guys would like some nekked engine porn. Finally Got around to putting together my SR20 using some parts from both of my engines and some fresh goodies. I will do a real part list later. Right now just picts

Final Prep and clean. Love clean alum blocks

 

[manimal]

Shiny!

mess

piston porn

crank in!

Now beer.

 

[manimal]

Look at what I just found in a DSM six bolt block I pulled out of a car today!


hint: Its why you clean your shit....

 

[ballmode]

awwwwwwwwww snap!

 

[boomhower]

What's it going in? Turbo? What kind of power are you going for? I wish I had the knowledge and facilities to do work like that.

 

[phucheneh]

Get that black moly lube off your bearings.

edit: also; thrust bearing?

 

[manimal]

What's it going in? Turbo? What kind of power are you going for? I wish I had the knowledge and facilities to do work like that.

It's going into my 240sx. It's gonna get either a hx 35 turbo or a gt2871

It's never too late to start wrenching a project.

Get that black moly lube off your bearings.

edit: also; thrust bearing?

I ran out of redline assembly lube and used the old stuff. If an engine sits for a while I still prefer the old stuff. I'll take more Picts later

 

[Black2na]

Love it!

 

[Fenixgoon]

awesome!

 

[phucheneh]

I ran out of redline assembly lube and used the old stuff. If an engine sits for a while I still prefer the old stuff. I'll take more Picts later

I use lubriplate (white lithium), but it's not good for an engine that's going to sit for a long time. Or, well...frankly I don't think it's bad for it, but after white lithium has had time to 'dry' it does not dissolve well into oil. Still has good lubricative properties, though, and I've personally never seen lubriplate turn to the sticky consistency of the stuff that comes in a spray can.

I've always avoided moly on bottom ends; only used it on cams with solid lifters when building your typical pushrod V8. However, I actually did some looking around (was curious about lubes good for 'long term' use), and I think I've been misled by the many claims I've heard that moly lube is abrasive. I assume I believed it because molybdenum IS a metal, however I think the molybdenum sulfide used in the greases is more akin to talcum powder with regard to abrasiveness (though you probably shouldn't put it on your baby's ass).

I believe lithium grease is still the major component there, though, and it's thicker than lubriplate. So it might not be the best thing, but I doubt you'll have issues. The random things that inspire me to educate myself on something...

However, I do still want to make sure...you put the thrust washers on that center bearing before dropping that crank in, right?

Also, did you check your oil clearances (and crank endplay)? Trust is a terrible thing to have when it comes to engine building- measure everything. If nothing else, plastigauge is a pretty idiot-proof way to be sure you're 'in the ballpark.'

Don't wanna seem like a prick; just trying to look out for you. I won't be offended by a reply of 'yes, dammit, I've done this before.' Heh.

 

[manimal]

I use lubriplate (white lithium), but it's not good for an engine that's going to sit for a long time. Or, well...frankly I don't think it's bad for it, but after white lithium has had time to 'dry' it does not dissolve well into oil. Still has good lubricative properties, though, and I've personally never seen lubriplate turn to the sticky consistency of the stuff that comes in a spray can.

I've always avoided moly on bottom ends; only used it on cams with solid lifters when building your typical pushrod V8. However, I actually did some looking around (was curious about lubes good for 'long term' use), and I think I've been misled by the many claims I've heard that moly lube is abrasive. I assume I believed it because molybdenum IS a metal, however I think the molybdenum sulfide used in the greases is more akin to talcum powder with regard to abrasiveness (though you probably shouldn't put it on your baby's ass).

I believe lithium grease is still the major component there, though, and it's thicker than lubriplate. So it might not be the best thing, but I doubt you'll have issues. The random things that inspire me to educate myself on something...

However, I do still want to make sure...you put the thrust washers on that center bearing before dropping that crank in, right?

Also, did you check your oil clearances (and crank endplay)? Trust is a terrible thing to have when it comes to engine building- measure everything. If nothing else, plastigauge is a pretty idiot-proof way to be sure you're 'in the ballpark.'

Don't wanna seem like a prick; just trying to look out for you. I won't be offended by a reply of 'yes, dammit, I've done this before.' Heh.

I have lubriplate on the shelf as well but went with te old stuff since this engine could sit for a bit. Ya thrust washers are there. I think I took a picture but im home for the weekend. Clearances look great. Had crank polished and checked. Spend a ton of extra time cleaning and checking everything since this is gonna be a high rpm engine.

Mahle pistons 60 over, Eagle Rods, Cosworth bearing, Cosworth HG, GTIR main bolts. Gonna get the head together sometime later this week if life allows.

Since this engine is for me I am taking my time and doing everything a little over the top.

While this is not my first rodeo I am building this one myeslf with the help of a buddy.


What would we do if not for our friends!


Where you do live Phuc?

 

[phucheneh]

I'm in Nashville, TN.

If you're relying on the machinist to mic everything, IMHO I think it's still worth it to do a 'dry run' with the crank and some plastigauge before proceeding further. I then do the rods one at a time, sliding the end of the rod over the rod journal, put some plastigauge and the cap on, torque it, check it, and then clean the plastigauge off, apply lube and reassemble (piston can stay in the bore the whole time). Repeat for the other three rods.

Same thing with your pistons- even without expensive tools, you can check fitment with more basic means. I stick the pistons in upside-down, sans rings, and measure piston-to-bore with a feeler gauge.

Machinists just usually have a big pile of work and a generic spec book. It's not uncommon for them to flub a measurement a little bit; it's probably one of a thousand measurements they'll make that day.

But when building your own engine, especially for a high performance application, I think it's worth it to doublecheck everything. Better to be overly sure than to make any leaps of faith. Sometimes you get lucky- 'this piston doesn't fit in the bore' is a little bit easier to notice than the opposite (too much clearance), heh.

Which leads me to say one last thing, and I'll quit preaching: be sure that your crank spins very freely; then as you install pistons, continue to keep turning it, so that you can note if the addition of any particular rod/piston seems to add more drag than the others.

Engine building is one of those things that's really quite easy if you take your time, pay attention, and err on the side of wasting time rather than being a little reckless. I've just seen way too many engine builds that could've been saved by a little more forethought and/or guidance.

 

[Elfear]

Looks like fun. I didn't realize the crank sat so far down in the block of an SR20.

 

[phucheneh]

Looks like fun. I didn't realize the crank sat so far down in the block of an SR20.

It seems rather unfortunate that they essentially made it with 'deep skirted' mains and then ignored the possible strength enhancements associated with such by having that main cap design.

Do people mod these for cross-bolts or add girdles?