Soyo 24" Topaz monitor owners - I need some help

[marymary]

I have this monitor that began malfunctioning after a storm related power outage. At 1920x1440 resolution the screen pans. I have to reduce resolution to 1680x1050 to stop the panning. It sounds like your fix would work for me. Could someone send me the needed EDID information too?

First post on your forum. Found this site by googling my issue. Looks like a great site and look forward to participating in your forums.

Mary

 

[KIAman]

I have this monitor that began malfunctioning after a storm related power outage. At 1920x1440 resolution the screen pans. I have to reduce resolution to 1680x1050 to stop the panning. It sounds like your fix would work for me. Could someone send me the needed EDID information too?

First post on your forum. Found this site by googling my issue. Looks like a great site and look forward to participating in your forums.

Mary

I believe the native resolution is 1920x1200 on this model so running it at 1920x1440 would give it more vertical space than what it can display.

 

[marymary]

You are correct. That resolution also causes panning. Looking forward to EDID files. My husband is wanting to update the video card drivers and I have a combo of drivers that work well. I need to fix this before he breaks it worse. lol

Mary

 

[borisvodofsky]

FUCK soyo, my rebates never came. NEVAR....

 

[konakona]

I did receive the rebate on my matx mobo way back circa 2005.

The deal I got this monitor from (OM clearance) didn't have a rebate on it though.

Whenever I look at my dead monitor I keep regretting I should have gotten that replacement warranty thingy

I messed around with it a few more times, still getting nothing but funky vertical lines. Probably the data ribbon severed somewhere or at the either end of it. Oh well

 

[marymary]

I'll pay someone for the needed edid file. Let's negotiate.

Mary

 

[EarthwormJim]

My monitor just died, AGAIN, after fixing it 3 months ago with a new power supply.

I'm guessing it's the backlight circuitry now.

Oh well, at least I'm getting a new monitor now; a Dell u2410.

I still have 2001FPs running around here, so hopefully this one will last more than 2 years.

 

[marymary]

I got the edid file and flashed today. Works great. I'm a happy camper now. Hope the monitor lasts a couple more yrs.

 

[konakona]

Do you guys know what blinking power LED means? I get no image on the screen.

This is what I get after my attempt to repair the torn ribbon cable. I simply cut off the mangled part and sanded down the topside of the end where it is supposed to go into the circuit assembly at the top. Before I have done this, the LED would soon turn red a few seconds after powering up.

Oh well, at least something has changed, it is a progress for better or worse

 

[bwanaaa]

i have a soyo 24". how does one extract the edid info?

 

[influx]

I'm very sorry to resurrect this old thread, but I'm actually having the same problem as the OP. I've actually had the problem for a while, since a thunderstorm last year destroyed a bunch of my computer's components and left my Soyo Topaz S crippled - unable to use DVI at all, and unable to go beyond 1600x1200 with VGA. At first I thought it was damaged and just settled for using the gimped modes, but I was curious tonight and did a little google research, and found this thread, and I'm very excited to find someone has had the exact same problem and has set the precedent that it is fixable. This is my first time ever hearing about EDIDs and PowerStrip and everything, and I did some research, but I'm afraid I'll still need some hand holding. OP, if you're still around, can you detail for me exactly how you did what you did, and provide me with the EDID you obtained to make it possible? I'd really appreciate it. I'll also throw you a PM with my email address if you'd rather converse in that manner. Thank you very much in advance, this will end up saving me hundreds of dollars in new monitor expenses.

 

[Doomguy]

It's not a difficult fix -- here's a link to the EDID file: http://www.mediafire.com/file/a3okb986e6316km/dspinfo.bin

You'll need to use a registered version of Powerstrip to flash it. Also -- as far as I know -- on current versions of Powerstrip, you'll actually have to contact Entech to get a code in order enable EDID writing; they require you to do this because I guess a lot of people have hosed their EDIDs.

Good luck.

 

[Idontcare]

Welcome to the forums influx! :thumbsup:

 

[influx]

Thanks guys. So I grabbed the EDID you posted, Doomguy, and also a registered copy of Powerstrip. I followed the instructions on the link provided in the first post of this thread. I clicked to update the EDID, got the error stating that "an EDID EEPROM was not detected on this monitor" and I clicked yes to scan the bus for other EDID EEPROMs. Then I got the window stating "an EDID EEPROM has been found at port #4. Do you want to attempt writing to this EEPROM?", and following the instructions I hit yes. At this point I got a third window stating "The existing __FFFF EDID appears to have a corrupt header and/or checksum. Click Yes to correct the error(s), or No to select an EDID file from disk." I clicked no thinking this was where I was supposed to input that file Doomguy gave me, and so that's what I did. It seemed to take, and it instructed me that I needed to restart my computer for the changes to take effect. I shut down the PC, switched the input from VGA to DVI, turned the PC back on, and...nothing. Still no signal to the DVI port. I'm back on VGA, which is still my only option, in order to see to type this. Any suggestions?

 

[jerryabr]

My Soyo Topax failed to start a few days ago, so I bought a new monitor. I would like to repair the Soyo if it is reasonable as it was great monitor for 3+yrs. The monitor refused to tun on one morning--no lights anywhere. Plug in new monitor--it works fine. Suspicion is the PS failed. Have been looking for a PS but am not seeing any for sale (searched using Bing and Google with the terms posted in this thread). Just found old listings with no one selling them now. Taobao has nothing. Ideas/recommendation?

I finally found it on a companion site, link below. I ordered 2 of them, so will see what happens....

http://www.taobaogle.com/soyo-24-pc-monitor-power-supply-p-15942.html

June 2011: Got the new PS and the Soyo monitor is working. They seem to be supplying good parts. Figure about US $35-$40 each, with the biggest cost being EMS (Express Mail Service).

Aug 2011: A friend had his Soyo Topaz blow its PS. Not quite the same failure as my Topaz--but it was in the same spot on the PS. They used my spare PS and the second monitor is working fine. He has more of the Topaz monitors, so is buying more spares before they fail.

 

[chikna]

My SOYO just died. When I press Power Button power led shows "RED" and no display at all. What must have happened? Please help!

Thank you.

 

[hrbngr2]

crap, I have a 24" Topaz 19x12 monitor that I got for ~$250 @ OM back in the day and it still works great. I had not heard about the PS issues until this thread, so I am wondering whether or not I should try to buy a replacement unit.

jerryabr,
tried the link you posted, PS is 12.50 ea--per ur experience buying (2) of these cost you about $80 via Paypal?

 

[soccerballtux]

$12.50 wow that's cheap

 

[malambo]

Hey all - I have three of these monitors. Two have died due to failed power supplies. I tried to order the replacement power boards from China, but after several months, they were still back ordered, so pending a refund via PayPal, that order was cancelled.

Doing a bit more reading online brought me to this forum posting on Slickdeals: http://slickdeals.net/f/1655449-Solved-How-to-fix-M24E14-M24EI4-power-supply-board?&page=5

Look for the posting from "gbyer" - it has links to separate 24v power units, and goes on to describe how using an ATX power supply, ATX power extender, 24v psu can fix the power issue. It's not pretty, but it gets the job done.

Now then, my experience yesterday in deal with this went pretty smooth. I'd received the pair of 24v psu in the mail the other day, and who doesn't have spare ATX power supplies laying about? I couldn't find the 0.1" coupler that was used in gbyer's posting, and plan on stripping the bezels off these so I can mount all three in portrait orientation with as little gap between as possible, so clip / strip / solder is ok by me.

The repair, in a long-winded nutshell goes like this:

1. Remove back cover of monitor. I use a debit card to help pop the cover off once the screws are out.

2. There are four screws holding the inside cover on - inside there's the vga / dvi input board and the power board. Disconnect the power board (there's two connectors - one 8pin, one 10 pin). Set aside the power board for reference - it's marked as to what each pin is used for. When the psu is out, go ahead and screw the back cover on.

3. I marked the wires with tape and a sharpie before I started cutting. Unless you're going to do one at a time (which makes sense too) it's a good idea to play it safe. The pinouts are as follows on mine - please verify on your old monitor psu before proceeding as there may be different versions:

8 pin: 24v 24v 24v 24v GND GND GND GND
10 pin: 12v 12v GND GND 5v 5v n/a n/a STANDBY POWER-ON

Did I mention double checking these before you proceed? Yes. It bears repeating.

4. The ATX power extender cable needs to be cut and prepared. Cut off the "male" end *snicker* Separate out the four orange and four of the black wires. I taped them to keep grouped. These will end up with the 24v power and ground. Next separate out both yellows, two reds, two blacks, one purple and the green. You won't need the rest so feel free to cap and wrap them to keep out of the way.

5. Strip the end off the 24v power line, and on your ATX power supply, figure out which orange and black match what you've separated on the ATX extension. Normally the orange provide 3.3v, which we don't need, so go ahead and cut them. Next strip enough to twist all four orange together with the power line from the 24v. Solder and tape. Do the same with the grounds. This will now be feeding the 24v through the former 3.3v of the ATX connector. Tape off the 3.3 lines from the psu while you're at it, and zip tie or tape everything so it's clean and stable as can be. If your ATX psu has the 3.3v "sense" wire, clip and cap/tape that off. It would be a slightly smaller gauge orange wire that also runs into the upper right 3.3v of the ATX connector.

6. Now that the power is sorted out, and we have the ATX extender sorted, clip the wires on the monitor. Might as well do one at a time, from left to right. The 24v side is easy, so match those oranges up - should be one to one across. Same with grounds.

The two yellows are 12v, so on the next set start with them. Two grounds, then two 5v from the reds. The purple is the 'standby', and when you're connecting that one, take a short spare piece of wire and join #2 (standby) to #5(the right, not left, of the 5v). On the slickdeals forum it's mentioned as pin 2 to pin 9, which may be the case on your setup as it seems it may have changed from one version to another of the monitor. Look at the old PSU you took out of the monitor and see if it's marked. On mine pin 9 would have been 12v, so I adjusted accordingly to match the standby up to the right 5v.

7. Once you're done connecting these 16 wires, you should be good to go. Tape and wrap, and time for a test! Connect your new power supplies to the monitor's new ATX adapter and fire it up - the front switch *should* work to turn it all on.

That all being said, I'll admit that I'm awful at soldering - so if I can make this work I'm sure you can too. The 24v power supplies were $14 each or so, and the extenders are a couple bucks. You don't need much as far as the ATX power box goes, so any 24 pin will do. If you have only a 20 pin, you'll probably want to route a 12v to one of your spare / unused wires on the monitor side ATX extender.

Hope this helps - and if the folks who sorted this out on the Slickdeals forum see this post, many thanks for helping me save these monitors from the scrap pile.

UPDATE: Yesterday I finished fixing my second dead panel. Fired right up. While I did use the second 24v power unit, I ran the rest of the power from the same ATX power supply. I cut the ATX extender for the second monitor with enough room to re-use the male end of it. Using the longest pair of the four pin molex connection lines, I cut and soldered the 12v, 5v and grounds so we're only needing that one ATX psu. I *did not* connect the power on or 5v standby on the second one - wasn't necessary since the first panel already has that connection established. The important thing? It all works!

 

[jmmay1234]

I found this post and have a question. I also replaced my power supply on my monitor, however it now has red lines running down it. I ran the Monitor Asset Manager you posted and this is what it said. Hopefully you can help.

Monitor
Model name............... M24EI4
Manufacturer............. Soyo
Plug and Play ID......... XXX0000
Serial number............ U7371D4160065
Manufacture date......... 2007, ISO week 37
Filter driver............ None
-------------------------
EDID revision............ 1.3
Input signal type........ Digital
Color bit depth.......... Undefined
Display type............. RGB color
Screen size.............. 520 x 330 mm (24.2 in)
Power management......... Standby, Suspend, Active off/sleep
Extension blocs.......... None
-------------------------
DDC/CI................... Supported
MCCS revison............. 2.0
Display technology....... TFT
Controller............... RealTek 0x23
Firmware revision........ 2.0
Firmware flags........... 0x0000005A
Active power on time..... Not supported
Power consumption........ Not supported
Current frequency........ 16711.76kHz, 0.60Hz
Color characteristics
Default color space...... Non-sRGB
Display gamma............ 2.20
Red chromaticity......... Rx 0.653 - Ry 0.337
Green chromaticity....... Gx 0.295 - Gy 0.607
Blue chromaticity........ Bx 0.144 - By 0.075
White point (default).... Wx 0.313 - Wy 0.329
Additional descriptors... None
Timing characteristics
Horizontal scan range.... 30-83kHz
Vertical scan range...... 56-71Hz
Video bandwidth.......... 170MHz
CVT standard............. Not supported
GTF standard............. Not supported
Additional descriptors... None
Preferred timing......... Yes
Native/preferred timing.. 1920x1200p at 60Hz (16:10)
Modeline............... "1920x1200" 154.000 1920 1968 2000 2080 1200 1203 1209 1235 -hsync +vsync
Standard timings supported
720 x 400p at 70Hz - IBM VGA
640 x 480p at 60Hz - IBM VGA
800 x 600p at 56Hz - VESA
800 x 600p at 60Hz - VESA
1024 x 768p at 60Hz - VESA
1152 x 864p at 60Hz - VESA STD
1280 x 1024p at 60Hz - VESA STD
1600 x 900p at 60Hz - VESA STD
1600 x 1200p at 60Hz - VESA STD
1680 x 1050p at 60Hz - VESA STD
1440 x 900p at 60Hz - VESA STD
1280 x 800p at 60Hz - VESA STD
Report information
Date generated........... 8/17/2014
Software revision........ 2.90.0.1000
Data source.............. Real-time 0x0011
Operating system......... 6.0.6002.2.Service Pack 2
Raw data
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