Okay soooooooooo. One of the redeeming aspects about living in this horrendously expensive state (CT) is that we have absolutely
fabulous farmstand ice cream. New England-style ice cream is basically a thick & chewy type of ice cream...it's still very rich & creamy, but it's not...fluffy. And it is not designed for soft serve..you freeze this stuff. So it's a process. It's basically centered around a custard base, but with some extra ingredients to make it NE-style. I started with this article:
Serious Eats: Dense, Chewy, and Rich New England-Style Ice Cream Recipe
After a dozen or so batches, I've got it refined to where I want it. I've made three primary changes:
1. Evaporated milk has been replaced by whole milk
2. No tempering or slurry
3. Effort reduction using gadgets
The basic process is:
1. Cook (because eggs)
2. Chill
3. Churn
4. Freeze
I suppose you could make a batch in a little as a day if you started in the morning, but it really takes 2 or 3 days to properly make a batch (due to chilling & freezing). There's not a lot of actual
work involved, mostly just...waiting. And you can always just buy vanilla Haagan-Daaz, which is excellent, for similar results. No real cost savings here due to the premium ingredients (lots of eggs, heavy cream, etc.). I like custom mix-ins (I better get a piece of cooking dough in EVERY BITE, dangit!), so making it at home is definitely worth it for me. You will need a fair amount of tools:
* Blender (or food processor)
* Instant Pot (3-quart or 6-quart model) ~$99 (
check the Kohl's deal)
*
Gourmia GST210R automatic stirring attachment (fits the 3qt & 6qt IP models, I've tested both personally) ~$30 (saves you ~20 minutes of stirring every time you make it, so it's worth it if you do it often...or if you make dulce de leche, which takes about 70 minutes of stirring, or risotto or whatever)
* Thermometer (I use a Thermapen knockoff - the
Lavatools instant-read pen for $25)
* Medium or large fine mesh sieve
* Ice cream machine (recommend a 2L freezer-bowl or chiller model, I use a Cuisinart ICE-30BC)
*
5-cup Rubbermaid dry food container (~$6 a pop, I have a half a dozen for personal inventory...they are great because 1, they are long & flat so the ice cream freezes quick without getting ice crystals, 2, they are awesome for doing swirls & mix-ins easily, and 3, super easy to scoop up a nice round ball of ice cream length-wise)
"Butterbean" farmstand ice cream recipe:
Special credit to Max Falkowitz of Serious Eats for the pioneering work on this (particularly the corn syrup & arrowroot starch combo).
8 Egg Yolks
1 & 1/2 cup Heavy Cream
1 & 1/2 cup Whole Milk
3/4 cup Sugar
1/4 cup Light Corn Syrup
1 teaspoon Vanilla Extract (note: cut that in half if using strong, high-quality vanilla extract)
2 teaspoons Arrowroot Starch
1 teaspoon Kosher Salt
Directions:
1. Blend all ingredients on low-speed for 30 seconds
2. In the Instant Pot:
a. Pour mixture in
b. Set to YOGURT > BOIL (the IP is induction-heated, won't scald the milk here)
c. Attach the Gourmia & set to Speed 2 ("fast" stir). If you don't have a Gourmia (or IP), you can just stir it by hand...manually...with a whisk...which feels like forever...ugh.
3. Bring up to 170F:
a. Set a timer for 18 minutes
b. Check the temperature. You want at least 170F, but you don't really want to go over that. 180F makes the ice cream taste weird.
4. Chill:
a. Strain hot mixture through sieve into a lidded container (saran wrap & rubber band is fine for a lid, if you're using a large bowl) to go in the fridge.
b. Optional, but recommended: "shock" the container in a bowl of ice water to stop it from continuing to cook (brings the temp down quickly), then move it to the fridge.
c. Goal is to bring it down to 40F. Pretty much just let it sit overnight in the fridge.
5. Churn:
a. Pour cold mixture into ice cream maker (if using a freezer bowl machine, freeze the bowl 24 hours beforehand).
b. Let it churn for 30 minutes. At this point, it will be soft-serve. This particular ice cream base is designed for freezing, in order to become scoopable, not to be eaten at this point (texture isn't right). There are other, better recipes for doing homemade soft-serve or "creamy-only" ice cream, like this great one from Alton Brown.
c. This is the point where you can do mix-ins & swirls. See this article for some good tips on ratios & techniques. I usually do one to three layers of mix-ins between spooning out the ice cream. Here are some good recipes:
1) Fudgy brownies
2) Eggless cookie dough (note that the FDA has warned about flour...heating the flour first to kill any e.coli...so it's not just about the egg risk; here's a microwave technique)
3) Dulce de leche (stir attachment is well-worth the money here, and yes use the goat's milk!)
4) Blueberry compote (note: I only use 1/2 tablespoon of lemon juice, and I use the bottled kind)
6. Freeze for at least 6 hours, preferably with your freezer set to the lowest, coldest setting.
Notes:
My procedure typically goes like this:
1. Blend up the mix & cook it after work
2. Shock it in a bowl & then let it chill in the fridge overnight
3. Churn it before work the next morning, add mix-ins, and then throw it in the freezer
4. Enjoy when you get home from work
So it's not a quick process, but it makes a
very high-quality, dense ice cream that you can customize with whatever mix-ins you want. I'm currently experimenting with a chocolate base, although that's not ready for a public recipe quite yet. This ice cream base has so much vanilla flavor & is so buttery that you can throw in some pecans (
try this toasting technique, or even better, throw in some
candied pecans) & basically have a super-easy Butter Pecan ice cream.
It's pretty easy once you get the hang of it, and especially if you get the $30 auto-mix attachment for the Instant Pot (works on regular pots too!). I've been making ice cream every week because it's so hands-off. This is similar to the way you make yogurt in the Instant Pot...you boil the milk, chill it down, stir in some yogurt (to act as a starter for the yogurt bacteria), incubate it for 8 to 24 hours, and then strain it. It's a long process but the actual hands-on time is like, minutes, so if you're willing to either plan ahead or just schedule it on your calendar, you can make fresh batches of yogurt & ice cream every week! (bonus, you can do froyo in the ice cream maker using homemade yogurt!)