Second loop build

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daw123

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Aug 30, 2008
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Originally posted by: BTRY B 529th FA BN
There is a puny little 3.5" drive bay at the bottom where i've always kept my drives which has 2 80 cooling fans but, man this is going to be a TIGHT squeeze. I'll probably have tubing running parralel to each other. See on the right side where my res is. I'm going to have to run the rad outlet tube to the side port (top) then my outlet from the res will be the lower side port which sucks for adding pressure which a res is intended to do :( but i'll use the top port for my fill port which is what I meant earlier....

So, what do you think of the pump pulling the water out of the block instead of pushing water into the block? It's not a high pressure setup so I'm thinking it might be do-able; also gonna have alot of 90's to make the pump to rad then rad out to res , work.

I'm not sure if it matters where the pump is located in the loop. I vaguely remember speaking to my dad about this (he's a chartered controls engineer) and when I showed him a schematic of my proposed loop, he pointed and said the pump can go here, here or here.
 
Nov 26, 2005
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Originally posted by: daw123
Originally posted by: BTRY B 529th FA BN
There is a puny little 3.5" drive bay at the bottom where i've always kept my drives which has 2 80 cooling fans but, man this is going to be a TIGHT squeeze. I'll probably have tubing running parralel to each other. See on the right side where my res is. I'm going to have to run the rad outlet tube to the side port (top) then my outlet from the res will be the lower side port which sucks for adding pressure which a res is intended to do :( but i'll use the top port for my fill port which is what I meant earlier....

So, what do you think of the pump pulling the water out of the block instead of pushing water into the block? It's not a high pressure setup so I'm thinking it might be do-able; also gonna have alot of 90's to make the pump to rad then rad out to res , work.

I'm not sure if it matters where the pump is located in the loop. I vaguely remember speaking to my dad about this (he's a chartered controls engineer) and when I showed him a schematic of my proposed loop, he pointed and said the pump can go here, here or here.

Wow

that was asking with intentions of keeping the highest amount of pressure on the block?

got all my parts I ordered today... probably have to order more; like angles etc - may drill this weekend :D

EDIT: the rad will fit, only if i use that PSU extender for my Revolution which is ~ 8" in length; totally makes things more difficult
 
Nov 26, 2005
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Originally posted by: Gillbot
Typical loop order is Pump, Rad, CPU Block, Res

thats close but it might have to look like

pump to rad to res to block back to pump

the pump will be pulling the water out the block; will be using a GTZ on this setup with a 655, 220 QP and a micro res.
 
Nov 26, 2005
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I need to outline a cut-out in the shape of my radiator and its drill holes. I will be cutting through my computer case so that I can mount the rad on top of it for my water cooling loop. I figure I need carbon paper but what else would I need?
 

daw123

Platinum Member
Aug 30, 2008
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BTRY, if you are mounting the rad to the inside of the top panel, I would recommend doing it the way I did here. You will need to buy a fan grille (you would probably need one of these any way and they are not expensive). If you need it in silver, the shop may powdercoat it
for free or a small additional charge (Chilled PCs did this for me. Mind you I had just placed a £400 order with them).

It involves a bit more work, but you will be impressed with the results if you use the router / ply jig method. The cuts are perfect; I mounted the fan grille internally rather than externally to show off the cuts in the top panel. Plus I think it looks better this way.
 
Nov 26, 2005
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It's going on the outside. This is a PC-60 remember :)

I thought I seen a tutorial on this somewhere but don't remember...

Already have my 1" holes drilled and another modification to the case... that 655 just is too big to make this cozey and snug :)
 

daw123

Platinum Member
Aug 30, 2008
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Are you using this or something like this to the mount the rad to the top of the top panel?

In the latter case, just cut a big hole in the top panel where ever you are mounting the fan adapter. You can use this to cut a approx. 80mm hole. You will have to measure the exact hole diameter using the internal hole diameter of the smaller opening (on the 92mm dia fan side) on the fan adapter.

Then drill four holes for mounting the adapter or rad box and you are good to go. Oh and drill two other holes for the rad inlet and outlet (say 3/4" holes for the 5/8" OD of the Masterklerer tubing to allow for rubber grommets)
 
Nov 26, 2005
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I'm mounting it on top with the cutout like the design you used but I am trying to copy the pattern from the RAD to pencil it in on the masking tape on the top of the case but I need to get a carbon copy first; which is my first idea. After I cut the pattern I'll use that 120mm shroud like I did on my first loop from the other thread. I'm just trying to avoid the 4-1/2" hole saw as it leaves alot of metal shreds where as if I use my brothers angel grinder (wizz wheel) I can cut it sorta if I was using a dremmell and the cuts will be alot cleaner and shred free; just fine dust. damn, where did i see that at? i should just spend time youtubing on tutorials... i'll probably be home from work tomorrow as it suppose to rain all day...
 

daw123

Platinum Member
Aug 30, 2008
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Sorry for the very late reply BTRY.

You can try the AC Ryan template for a 2x120 rad. You just have to make sure that the mounting holes on the MCR220 match up with the template. Also make sure that you print the template to scale (i.e. your printer does not shrink or enlarge the .pdf).

It does say on the AC Ryan website that the fan grille this template is used for fits Swiftech rads released before 2007, so theoretically the mounting holes should be in the right locations. I'm not sure how long the current MCR220 has been around for though.
 
Nov 26, 2005
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Originally posted by: daw123
Sorry for the very late reply BTRY.

You can try the AC Ryan template for a 2x120 rad. You just have to make sure that the mounting holes on the MCR220 match up with the template. Also make sure that you print the template to scale (i.e. your printer does not shrink or enlarge the .pdf).

It does say on the AC Ryan website that the fan grille this template is used for fits Swiftech rads released before 2007, so theoretically the mounting holes should be in the right locations. I'm not sure how long the current MCR220 has been around for though.

That's very interesting! thanks Daw!

I had almost given up. I have like a thousand pieces layin round and a thousand things to do so its been mentally challenging after work to get knee deep in the fun - haha