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Second loop build

BTRY B 529th FA BN

BTRY B 529th FA BN

Lifer
This week, I received my UD3R board and I am thinking about putting it under a loop for my Q9650. I might keep my high pressure 355 loop for my i7 and just change out the block - this is all thought salad btw, just thinking about things, nothing in stone yet; but will a MCR 220 be enough for my Q9650 @ 4+ ghz? I'd like to get a universal block that supports 1366 & 775 if anyone knows of such, i'm open to suggestions, thanks again my h20 friends 🙂

 
Originally posted by: BTRY B 529th FA BN
This week, I received my UD3R board and I am thinking about putting it under a loop for my Q9650. I might keep my high pressure 355 loop for my i7 and just change out the block - this is all thought salad btw, just thinking about things, nothing in stone yet; but will a MCR 220 be enough for my Q9650 @ 4+ ghz? I'd like to get a universal block that supports 1366 & 775 if anyone knows of such, i'm open to suggestions, thanks again my h20 friends 🙂
Click to expand...

I know for fact that my EK Supreme (and possibly yours as well) has a universal bracket supporting LGA775 and LGA1366. So you can use it on either rig if you so wish.

This is the spec for the one that I bought:
http://www.chilledpc.com.au/in...id=3&vmcchk=1&Itemid=3
 
Originally posted by: daw123
Originally posted by: BTRY B 529th FA BN
This week, I received my UD3R board and I am thinking about putting it under a loop for my Q9650. I might keep my high pressure 355 loop for my i7 and just change out the block - this is all thought salad btw, just thinking about things, nothing in stone yet; but will a MCR 220 be enough for my Q9650 @ 4+ ghz? I'd like to get a universal block that supports 1366 & 775 if anyone knows of such, i'm open to suggestions, thanks again my h20 friends 🙂
Click to expand...

I know for fact that my EK Supreme (and possibly yours as well) has a universal bracket supporting LGA775 and LGA1366. So you can use it on either rig if you so wish.

This is the spec for the one that I bought:
http://www.chilledpc.com.au/in...id=3&vmcchk=1&Itemid=3
Click to expand...

are you absolutely sure??? mine looks the same way
 
Originally posted by: BTRY B 529th FA BN
Originally posted by: daw123
Originally posted by: BTRY B 529th FA BN
This week, I received my UD3R board and I am thinking about putting it under a loop for my Q9650. I might keep my high pressure 355 loop for my i7 and just change out the block - this is all thought salad btw, just thinking about things, nothing in stone yet; but will a MCR 220 be enough for my Q9650 @ 4+ ghz? I'd like to get a universal block that supports 1366 & 775 if anyone knows of such, i'm open to suggestions, thanks again my h20 friends 🙂
Click to expand...

I know for fact that my EK Supreme (and possibly yours as well) has a universal bracket supporting LGA775 and LGA1366. So you can use it on either rig if you so wish.

This is the spec for the one that I bought:
http://www.chilledpc.com.au/in...id=3&vmcchk=1&Itemid=3
Click to expand...

are you absolutely sure??? mine looks the same way
Click to expand...

I'm going from the blurb on the Chilled PCs website:

775 and 1366 Socket mounting plate only is enclosed in the package.

Unfortunately my new rig is at my parent's house, so I can't check it. I'll be pissed off if it isn't LGA1366 compatible because I want to use the EK Supreme in my I7 rig.
 
I don't see how it is. The holes I use, if you hold the block so you can read the "Supreme" are they very top then bottom. You'd have to make a funny orientation to make it fit. Although there is a 1366 made supreme block. I'll look then link it for you.
 
I remember that there was another mounting plate in the kit I got. Perhaps we have to swap the LGA775 mounting plate on the block for the LGA1366 version. Should be pretty simple; theres 4 bolts securing the plate on to the block.
 
Can you see the four black allen key bolts securing the chrome mounting plate to the top of the copper block, which will sit on top of the CPU IHS in this photo. I reckon the chrome LGA775 universal mounting plate, which comes pre-fitted to the block, can be swapped out for the LGA1366 plate, by un-screwing these four black bolts.
 
I'm pretty sure the chrome LGA1366 mounting plate was included in the box, the block was packaged in.
 
Ok, now I see whats going on, I wasn't thinking out of the box like. Once you remove that plate, I wonder if the whole thing comes apart. I wouldn't want to have to re-bleed that loop again.
 
Thats the problem. You need to remove the two barbs from the block before you swap out the mounting plate.

For me this will be ok, because the only water left in the loop is in the res (the pump wasn't on long enough to circulate the water around the loop), so I'm not that bothered if I have to remove the barbs from the block.

If on the other hand, the loop is completely full of water, then its a pita. You'll have to drain the loop (you will be thankful for that drain port you installed 🙂) before you do anything. And of course re-fill and bleed the system on completion.

How difficult did you find it bleeding the loop?

Is this the process that you used for filling / bleeding the system (I'm just curious):
Leave the fill port open (in the top of the case)
Completely fill the res.
Turn on the PC (and pump).
Top up the liquid levels as the pump gurgles away.
Tilt the case from side to side and shake it a bit to get all the air out from the nooks and crannys in the rad and CPU block
Keep topping up the levels until the liquid backs up slightly up the fill port tubing (i.e. the res and loop is completely filled)
After a couple of minutes the pump stops gurgling and becomes a lot quieter.
Put the plug in the fill port.
Job done.

It was a piece of cake when the loop was out of the case for the bench test. It'll probably be a bit more difficult when everything is inside the case.

Edit: From the picture it looks as if you can remove the mounting plate, without having to remove the acetal (black) or acrylic (clear) top to the block, which the barbs screw into. Thats unless you want to remove it, to have a look inside 🙂
 
It actually took a long time to bleed and it didn't get quiet till about a month later when I had my machine off when I was swapping out that DDR3 board.

Use a jumper on the 24 pin and just flip the switch on the PSU to turn on the pump. This way you are not running the PC as it is safer case any leaks occur. When running the pump, you will see some air bubbles in the loop. I just oriented the entire case so the air bubbles would float towards the drain port, and then just fill as needed.

Man, I'm sooo unsure if I want to swap out that block. I don't want to refill my loop...
 
I'm wondering if you could remove the block from the CPU, turn it upside down, drain a bit out of the loop, so the CPU block and a bit of tubing to the inlet and outlet on the block is empty, then remove the block from the tubing. Provided you keep the tubing to the block (say tape it to the top of the case perhaps) high compared to everything else, then you should be able to remove the block without leakage and without having to completely drain the loop.

I know I'm able to do this because I have some slack in my tubing (in fact this is the way it is at the moment since I removed the CPU from the MB), although the block is still connected to the tubing. I've currently got the CPU block and tubing tied to one of the flanges on the case top panel using a bit of twine.

I'm not sure if you are able to do this with your set up; I vaguely remember that you kept your tubing lengths quite short and used a number of right angle bends.

Regarding using the MCR220 for the CPU only, this is what I'm thinking about doing and using the MCR320 on the second loop for the NB, SB, etc.

Edit: Oh and wrap the open end to the two tubes which you've removed the CPU block from with a lot of electrical tape, just in case.
 
Hah... I would totally remove the entire mobo if I were to change the block. Then, i couldn't imagine working off those tubes from the cpu block barbs to change for a plate. It'd be just as much trouble if I went with a KL 350 which would incur actually having 1366lga mounting holes which is a plus but a pain in the ass none the less...

I've got some serious creative thinking ahead of me before I solidify any decisions yet.

All my future endeavors go against the grain.
1. I have a high pressure 775 H20 setup I'd like to use with a 1366 setup which I don't want to change the block or refill (loop)
2. I have a low pressure (655 + micro.res.v2) setup that I need to find a block for which I'd like to find a universal 775 & 1366 orientated block mount; but this isn't the best of the best... it'll look like a GTZ when I come to my senses... who knows...

I think I may go out to MicroCenter and get a MCR 220 and see what they have for blocks. They'll probably have the rad but it'll be a far shot for a block...
 
Stackable MCR

320

220

yay 2700 posts, pffffff :roll:

I am just window shopping and I also came across EK Supreme LT (light) Aigo, how is this???

Also came across a Swiftech GTZ Extreme how much better is this over the GTZ???

Thinking if I have to drain my loop regardless to keep my high pressure loop for my i7 build, I might as well, either get the KL 350 or maybe the EK Supreme LT which both have 1366lga mounting support. The idea of the bracket for the EK Supreme isn't a bad idea, I just think it wouldn't be a good idea fooling with breaking the seal around the copper and acrylic top to swap for the plate...

My thoughts on the GTZ or GTZ extreme (are they two different blocks?) ...would be to use it on my new Q9650 with my UD3R in that small case I originally had planned for my i7 (the i7 will go into my black case)
 
Originally posted by: BTRY B 529th FA BN
Stackable MCR

320

220

yay 2700 posts, pffffff :roll:

I am just window shopping and I also came across EK Supreme LT (light) Aigo, how is this???

Also came across a Swiftech GTZ Extreme how much better is this over the GTZ???

Thinking if I have to drain my loop regardless to keep my high pressure loop for my i7 build, I might as well, either get the KL 350 or maybe the EK Supreme LT which both have 1366lga mounting support. The idea of the bracket for the EK Supreme isn't a bad idea, I just think it wouldn't be a good idea fooling with breaking the seal around the copper and acrylic top to swap for the plate...

My thoughts on the GTZ or GTZ extreme (are they two different blocks?) ...would be to use it on my new Q9650 with my UD3R in that small case I originally had planned for my i7 (the i7 will go into my black case)
Click to expand...

That's a good idea Swiftech.

I will probably stack 2x MCR320s together but have the inlets and outlets at opposing ends (so that I can use a rad for each loop), rather than have 2x MCR320s on the same loop.

Only problem I can see with these stackable rads is how the heck are you able to fit a screwdriver into the gap between the top and bottom flanges on the fans to be able to bolt the two rads together. There must be only a gap of about 20mm between the two flanges. This is very tight space to be able to get a screwdriver on to the head of a bolt.
 
Haha, either that or they will sell some really long screws. I also was thinking of doing a stack like that.

Photo link

+ I picked up an EK Supreme LT for cheap. It cost 49$ + 4$ including High Flow EK barbs; is 1366lga compatible
 
Some flow ideas. Pump on left will intake from the block and shoot up towards the MCR220, then exit out the rad to the res. to the block... thoughts?

EDIT: omg, i'm forgetting a drainport 🙁
 
Originally posted by: BTRY B 529th FA BN
Some flow ideas. Pump on left will intake from the block and shoot up towards the MCR220, then exit out the rad to the res. to the block... thoughts?

EDIT: omg, i'm forgetting a drainport 🙁
Click to expand...

And fill port; how are you going to fill/bleed the res if theres a drive directly above it. You can do it by fitting 90 degree angle fittings on the inlet and fill port on the top of the res to give you maximum clearance above for the drives.
 
There is a puny little 3.5" drive bay at the bottom where i've always kept my drives which has 2 80 cooling fans but, man this is going to be a TIGHT squeeze. I'll probably have tubing running parralel to each other. See on the right side where my res is. I'm going to have to run the rad outlet tube to the side port (top) then my outlet from the res will be the lower side port which sucks for adding pressure which a res is intended to do 🙁 but i'll use the top port for my fill port which is what I meant earlier....

So, what do you think of the pump pulling the water out of the block instead of pushing water into the block? It's not a high pressure setup so I'm thinking it might be do-able; also gonna have alot of 90's to make the pump to rad then rad out to res , work.
 
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