I won't bother with the rest of your post, there's too much to go through, but this is misleading. The 65W TDP isn't snake oil, it sets the power limit (+ a % allowable by boost) that the CPU will adhere to which will greatly limit the frequency of the CPU once more than 1-2 cores are active. If you manually overclock, you're removing said limit, that doesn't make it a fake limit though, it just means to get the performance the OP wants out of the chip, you need to overclock it at which point how far you can overclock will depend on your cooling which was pointed out from the very beginning.
Also, bus speed overclock can be effective but can cause more problems than its worth including data corruption on your hard drives, so "caveat emptor" on that.
If you have this processor I would suggest that u may wish to bother with it. The 65tdp is snake oil ...had you read the post I wasn't suggesting that he do an all core over clock which would eliminate PPT / EDC etc parameters.
I run my processor on boost ... at 4.180ish. not 1 to 2 threads but all 16 threads boost to 4.1 non stop at idle and attempt to do so during every game Ive tested thus far (ESO/BFV /APex / CSGo /monsterhunter world etc.
Routinely drills 120-140 watts on draw which yes i realize 140watt draw isn't 140 TDP via Ryzen's rating system ....but its still more in either case. You won't trigger the processor into "OC mode" which sticks the chip into a static all core clock IF you simply Change LLC to Turbo / Extreme (on gigabyte mobos) Cold reboot THEN set the voltage to say 1.31 ...cold reboot again magically when u pop on Every core will be at 4.1ghz (the rated boost) on Games , it will ofcourse throt on heavy multi threaded work loads. However you'll immediately notice where as You were prior to doing this hitting 45-50 watts in HWinfo during gaming that you will instead be hitting the 88watt PPT limit non stop on intense gaming sessions , Why ? because the "65tdp" thing is tossed out the window and essentially ignored without sacrificing single core performance or even quad /6 thread performance.
Then obviously you can adjust the base clock and get higher and higher single /4 /6 /8 thread performance. Sure he needs better cooling as you guys pointed out at the start.
I decided to throw him a bone and tell him how to actually get the best gaming performance out of his processor . The processor's stock settings no matter if you keep it at avg of 42c (20 over ambient for me) or 60C ...is garbage. Ive got 12 fans along with the aio in my case currently. 2060 super with max OC i can get averages 42 C ... the 2700 (for ref with 4.25ghz all core clock ) avg's 48 C in 20-22c room. just to give an idea of the cooling im dealing with. Even under these circumstances with no OC at all stock settings the processor is garbage and will throt down to 3.5/3.6 if lucky every thread . It essentially only boosts when idle ...snake oil.
but you can bypass this without the standard all core Bs. set the LLC , cold reboot , set the voltage to 1.31 VPP - 100 (saves ya ppt space) and you can get the PPT limit up to 90 watts if you change CTDP in gigabbyte bios to 1400+ ( stock is 700 for example its a heat rating from what i understand ) It will still downclock under loads as it gets to 88-89-90watts while not in "oc mode" but for whatever reason setting a static voltage and leaving the multiplier on auto allows every thread to boost to 4.1ghz at any thing under stress test / avx work loads.
Both 2700 non x chips ive had behave in this way after a year of messing around with PO oc's , all cores and getting it as cold as I could this was absolutely the best setup for gaming . u can static voltage /llc this thing to 120fps with a 1660ti 138 avg with 2060 super in Bfv . You can go beyond that with blck OC afterward.
With regard to nvme concerns the one i have im not even sure the brand m.2 nvme ive had no problems in 5 months or so of using these settings but in either case u can just settle for the 4.1 all thread boost and you will average 3984 to 4010 mhz after a few hours of gaming on every single thread with the worst/slower cores in yer system being in the 3970-3980 range.
U can BLCK and avg 4.16 - 4.17 depending how far u wish to go. I would reccomend stopping at 101.75 -102. beyond that atleast with the two chips ive tested you will start running into memory errors regardless what you do with the timings. But 101.75 and under you can maintain tight sub timings without downclocking the Ram's multiplier . again ive had no issues with my M.2 drive at all , I don't do massive amounts of copy / transfer work or anything I game on this and have had no issues , It is odd with regard to how it impacts memory stability vs certain games but nothing ya cant handle once familiar with how your kit behaves vs cpu's memory controller.
I provided my findings with the OP because I searched and searched after first getting this system and found nothing that helped minus suggestions that amounted to (Throw volts at it change multiplier n GL) which yea u can do ok in games with that but who wants to run their CPU at that high a voltage everyday ? Seems silly.
4.1 auto boost on every thread with 3.9 - 4.xxx Ghz avg is still enough on his system to stay above 100fps no problem. If anyone is curious I have recordings and screenshots I can share . You can increase the boost avg via lowering various voltages VPP /Soc and so on as lowering the package power is the primary thing that will help you maintain higher boost clocks even if u leave BLCK alone.
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