running natural gas line to grill

[zixxer]

How are natural gas lines connected?

At my hot water heater the pipe has an extra fitting on it that I plan on using for my grill. I've heard the best way is to use a stainless braided line - no big deal. I need to go about 20 feet. Where I live pipe needs to be 12-18 inches deep underground.

It looks like the gas line is threaded and then some sort of glue/gunk is used as 'pipe tape'. It also might be soldered.


how is it supposed to be connected? solder+gas seems like a bad idea.

 

[Colt45]

glue gunk? aka pipe dope?

 

[OdiN]

Well you would have the gas turned off and then evacuate the lines you're going to be working on. Soldering on pipe does usually require a torch.

I would let a professional do it though...messing with gas lines is not a good idea unless you know what you are doing.

 

[Spydermag68]

Have a professional make the connection.

 

[Wizkid]

I did mine with screw-on & flared fittings. You need a flaring tool to flare the edges of the copper flex pipe after the screw-on connector slides over. Use yellow teflon tape on the threads and get the connections REALLY tight. Use soap to test for leaks. There is no need to solder anything.

They make various adapters for all sizes of screw-on connections and most parts are pretty cheap, but the flexible gas line is pretty expensive.

 

[theknight571]

FWIW: The gas lines in my house are "black iron" pipe with threaded fittings.

I'm not sure if it would work underground though.. cause of rust.

When I extended the line while remodeling the kitchen I just unscrewed it at a joint, put pipe dope on the new threads and screwed in the longer piece... Piece of cake.

- TK

 

[zixxer]

Originally posted by: Wizkid
I did mine with screw-on & flared fittings. You need a flaring tool to flare the edges of the copper flex pipe after the screw-on connector slides over. Use yellow teflon tape on the threads and get the connections REALLY tight. Use soap to test for leaks. There is no need to solder anything.

They make various adapters for all sizes of screw-on connections and most parts are pretty cheap, but the flexible gas line is pretty expensive.

yeah I have to run probably 20-30ft of it. 4ft to go outside the house, then along the house for ~25ft, then about 10ft up to the deck.


Gas line has to be 18 inches deep... do I need to surround it with gravel or anything?

 

[bctbct]

They make a yellow( gas parts usually yellow in color) flex hose for gas. Probably your best bet although check that it is suitable for below grade installation.

 

[Analog]

Natural Gas and Propane run at different pressures. Make sure your grill CAN accept natural gas, otherwise it will run poorly (LP runs at a higher pressure).

 

[boggsie]

Originally posted by: yellowfiero
Natural Gas and Propane run at different pressures. Make sure your grill CAN accept natural gas, otherwise it will run poorly (LP runs at a higher pressure).

This is absolutely correct.

The regulator in your grill may work for both LP (propane) and natural gas, but it may need changed out.

 

[zixxer]

Originally posted by: boggsie

Originally posted by: yellowfiero
Natural Gas and Propane run at different pressures. Make sure your grill CAN accept natural gas, otherwise it will run poorly (LP runs at a higher pressure).

This is absolutely correct.

The regulator in your grill may work for both LP (propane) and natural gas, but it may need changed out.

I already bought the kit that switches the grill to NG, I'm about to go to home depot to look at this CSST stuff. Supposedly it's fine for underground runs?

Also, ideally I need to drill through concrete block in my basement to get outside. This will put the pipe directly underground. Is this ok to do? I'm gonna check at home depot hopefully they rent mortar bits large enough.

 

[Ornery]

I thought it was decided that charcoal was the way to go!

• 
  wtf am I looking for in a gas grill?
  pole included now Off Topic 19 222 zixxer 01/03/2006 02:29 AM
  by zixxer
  
  hmmm about to try smoking with a gas grill Off Topic 8 94 zixxer 01/11/2006 06:41 PM
  by joecool
  
  running natural gas line to grill Off Topic 9 120 zixxer 01/15/2006 12:16 PM
  by boggsie
  
  lets make this easy.. a quick poll. Propane or Charcoal? Off Topic 30 162 zixxer 12/02/2005 01:03 PM
  by Son of a N00b
  
  hhmmm.... 1.45 lb's of filet mignon Off Topic 16 230 zixxer 10/22/2005 11:12 PM
  by LongCoolMother
  
  grilling books/websites? Off Topic 4 30 zixxer 01/08/2006 01:53 AM
  by zixxer

Anyway, add a shutoff valve to the manifold you're connecting to. Use soft copper tubing from there, underground, and up to the grill's connector. If the grill isn't fixed in place, it will need a flexible connector.

 

[mrrman]

Originally posted by: Wizkid
I did mine with screw-on & flared fittings. You need a flaring tool to flare the edges of the copper flex pipe after the screw-on connector slides over. Use yellow teflon tape on the threads and get the connections REALLY tight. Use soap to test for leaks. There is no need to solder anything.

They make various adapters for all sizes of screw-on connections and most parts are pretty cheap, but the flexible gas line is pretty expensive.

This is correct

 

[Ornery]

You need a flaring tool to flare the edges of the copper flex pipe after the screw-on connector slides over.

Why not use compression fittings?

 

[zixxer]

Originally posted by: Ornery
I thought it was decided that charcoal was the way to go!

• 
  wtf am I looking for in a gas grill?
  pole included now Off Topic 19 222 zixxer 01/03/2006 02:29 AM
  by zixxer
  
  hmmm about to try smoking with a gas grill Off Topic 8 94 zixxer 01/11/2006 06:41 PM
  by joecool
  
  running natural gas line to grill Off Topic 9 120 zixxer 01/15/2006 12:16 PM
  by boggsie
  
  lets make this easy.. a quick poll. Propane or Charcoal? Off Topic 30 162 zixxer 12/02/2005 01:03 PM
  by Son of a N00b
  
  hhmmm.... 1.45 lb's of filet mignon Off Topic 16 230 zixxer 10/22/2005 11:12 PM
  by LongCoolMother
  
  grilling books/websites? Off Topic 4 30 zixxer 01/08/2006 01:53 AM
  by zixxer

Anyway, add a shutoff valve to the manifold you're connecting to. Use soft copper tubing from there, underground, and up to the grill's connector. If the grill isn't fixed in place, it will need a flexible connector.

I decided that using a gas grill and a smoker tray I can get satisfactory results.


Also not sure of the point of pointing out the past posts? There are no reposts.

 

[Ornery]

It's about the saga of zixxer's grilling life. Maybe we should start Yet Another Forum for Grilling!

 

[Iron Woode]

My BBQ is setup with natural gas. There are kits avaible as the valving is different, so everything will work correctly.

I love it.

 

[Iron Woode]

Originally posted by: Ornery
You need a flaring tool to flare the edges of the copper flex pipe after the screw-on connector slides over.

Why not use compression fittings?

why not let the gas company do it?

If something goes wrong, you have someone to blame, other than yourself.

 

[Ornery]

Depends how much they charge. I no longer install my own exhaust systems for the same reason. The parts cost me more than I can have it done for!

That grill connection will run him about $75.00 for materials. $165.00 for a quality hammer drill, ( $250.00 for cordless) and $13.00 for the masonry bit.

 

[Midlander]

Originally posted by: zixxer

Originally posted by: Wizkid
I did mine with screw-on & flared fittings. You need a flaring tool to flare the edges of the copper flex pipe after the screw-on connector slides over. Use yellow teflon tape on the threads and get the connections REALLY tight. Use soap to test for leaks. There is no need to solder anything.

They make various adapters for all sizes of screw-on connections and most parts are pretty cheap, but the flexible gas line is pretty expensive.

yeah I have to run probably 20-30ft of it. 4ft to go outside the house, then along the house for ~25ft, then about 10ft up to the deck.


Gas line has to be 18 inches deep... do I need to surround it with gravel or anything?

Copper is not allowed by most building codes for natural gas lines. Even if it is allowed, the techniques for joining are stringent. You should consider cast iron.

The main reason for burying the line 18 inches deep is to avoid damage from digging. Cast iron will help in this regard, too.

Just make sure you check local building codes.

 

[Ornery]

By cast iron, do you mean black pipe? That would be stronger than copper, but what about rust? I'm pretty sure our building code allows copper underground, because that's what everybody uses. The supply from the street used to come in via black pipe, but I believe they're going with a plastic type pipe now.

 

[JinLien]

Go ahead and do it yourself if you are confident of the steps below.

1. Get a homeowner permit.
2. Get some threaded IP (Iron Pipe) ½ or ¾ inch (match existing line) may need to get it threaded (free at Home Depot). Purchase black malleable IP fitting, because it is illegal to use cast iron (crack easily).
3. Iron pipe thread dope for gas or yellow coded teflon tape are use at the connections.
4. There are flexible insulated pipe that you can get and uses brass compression fittings, but I?m not sure with the underground usage, because I have only seen it uses in above ground application.
5. Make sure the line that your patch in is (5 psi) before the gas pressure reducing valve of the water heater (need constant 2 psi to get the correct setting for burn rate, most is 3600 BTU for residential. The setting has to be within 10% of the max BTU, otherwise you will have un burn gas, or worse over Oxygen and get Carbon Monoxide). Or move the pressure reducing valve closer to the water heater and make sure that it is before the shutoff valve.
6. You will require to have another pressure reducing valve for the grill before the ball shut off valve (every device require its own pressure reducing valve to take the pressure from 5 psi down to working pressure of 2 psi).
7. Shut off valves handle at shutoff point shall be in the position where it can?t be accidentally turn on due to gravity or bumping.
8. Normally ¼ inch or smaller soft copper pipe is use for the line from IP to grill and it can be compression fitting, flare, or double flare (depending on the fitting that you purchase and the grill). And, cast brass fitting shall be use instead of machined brass fittings (crack easily).
9. Test the new line with 20 psi of pressure from existing IP to grill for at least 20 minutes and use soap/water test at every fitting to make sure that you don?t have any leaks.
10. You will require to clock the meter and set your pressure air/gas mixture at the grill to within 10% of max BTU rating for your grill and it also depends on the elevation of your area (air at high altitude is less than sea level).

[add]

Have an inspector check your work and okay it. Fire insurance will not cover it if the gas line has been tampered with, even with an inspector check off.

 

[JinLien]

Originally posted by: Ornery
By cast iron, do you mean black pipe? That would be stronger than copper, but what about rust? I'm pretty sure our building code allows copper underground, because that's what everybody uses. The supply from the street used to come in via black pipe, but I believe they're going with a plastic type pipe now.

Copper tubing was common in older building but most newer building code (depends on local) require plastic or IP.

[edit] Sorry...I meant copper tubing.

 

[Ornery]

My home was built in the mid '50s and has black pipe throughout. The previous owner had tapped into the pipe coming out of the meter for his outside gas grill. He literally used a crude tap! It was right next to the meter, so I guess it was legal. It went to a copper tubing straight into the ground and back to the grill. I've seen it done with copper tubing on many other homes in the area, but I don't know if that's still up to code.

 

[JinLien]

Originally posted by: boggsie

Originally posted by: yellowfiero
Natural Gas and Propane run at different pressures. Make sure your grill CAN accept natural gas, otherwise it will run poorly (LP runs at a higher pressure).

This is absolutely correct.

The regulator in your grill may work for both LP (propane) and natural gas, but it may need changed out.

Specific density and heat value are different between natural gas and Propane.

Natural gas -- SD 0.6 -- 1000 BTU lb/ft3
Propane -- SD 1.52 -- 2500 BTU lb/ft3

Therefor you will need to make sure the grill ventury and burner can can accept natural gas. Some propane gill have the option to purchase and install a natural burner instead of the propane burner.